Alex

Guys, I'm certainly no expert. I'm just going off what I seem to see in the Rockies every year - that is to say, my familiarity with temperate snowpack, and the real FEAR it instills in me, is probably biasing my assessment. Would be nice to have some paralax..? As to depth hoar, I thought about that too, but to be honest I don't know if its an issue or not - it is warm ground followed by cold precip or cold ground followed by cold preceip that would result in ground layer hoar? Actually, we currently have 2 significant precipitation events...certainly the snowfal Dan Smith, Nick and I ran into at about 6000 ft a few weeks ago is the base layer. This was also light snow, not as light as the next layer, which fell about a week ago now or more, and to much lower elevations. How will the 2 layers interact? My guess is that they are both good sliding layers, especially if the next cycle is triggered by heavy wet snowfall (a warm front with lots of precip - a Southwesterly flow). Alex

I'll go if you go in January or later... Alex

Well, if the truth must be known I also own AT gear, but I use that for approaches pretty much. But no I don't ski tele on double camber edgeless boards with low-top boots.

Jens, its a long shot but Dan McHale might. McHale & Co. www.aa.net/mchalepacks/

Infidel, you will burn in HELL! for not freeing your most sacred HEELS! (accursed jump turns through powder! Begone EVIL heretic!)

I'm actually writing an article on bars and goo, as well. I've "taste-tested" about 25 different ones, and will have some nutritional info on them, maybe we can collaborate? As for my favorites so far: Luna Bars/Clif Bars, various flavors. Genisoy Bars, especially the mint, but anything they make is usually pretty good. PowerGel, vanilla and Strawberry/Bananna. The double caffeine tangerine tastes horrible! I really liked Clif Shots when they came in the toothpaste tubes. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-06-2000).]

Colchuck Peak Current Conditions: --------------------------------- Colchuck Glacier Route, snow level 6500, getting deep at 7000, postholing and also thin layer over water ice on the glacier to the col. Crampons not used but I would bring them anyway for the ice near the col. Going to the summit was a complete grunt (an hour up, 10 min down). This is a great route for November! Alex K, Mike S

Eldorado approach (via Eldorado and Roush (?) basins) is currently straightforward to the notch. Snow level is at around 6000 feet, making the going across the slabs and heather a little slippery. The plateau at 7200 has a foot of new snow on it, making travel here slow and tiring. The East Ridge is currently in fine shape, we did not see the condition of the other routes. If you are planning a trip up to do the E ridge, its a fine time to go. If you plan to do something else, plan for lots of time on the approach as the snow and glacier conditions do not make for speedy travel right now. Alex

Speaking of which, I noticed N Face of Pyramid is another Ruch/Cotter route. Anyone seen this thing and what it might be like? Thanks in advance. ------------------ Wimp Climber http://www.mountainwerks.com/alexk/

Atle, Snoqualmie Pass is often in the clouds during weather like we are having now, so if its not raining outright, the route can still be damp. That said, it is very possible to climb the Tooth even when it is wet! The forecast is looking like 50% chance of rain, so I'd get at it and up it as quick as you can between the raindrops! Otherwise, the approach is very straightforward. Alex

Dan, I use a pair of Smiths with a clear lens. I initially bought them because they were the only thing REI had with a clear lens and I was in a hurry, but have since grown to like them. Not sure what model, but it was nothing fancy, about 50$. I wear them over glasses, and at belays the glasses fog up, but not the goggle, but once I get climbing again, everything is fine. Don't really need to see much at a belay anyway I've used them a few times in the Cascades and Banff. I think Carrera makes really nice goggles that are well vented and go over glasses as well, but I have not been actively looking for a replacement for the Smiths... The only thing I have found that cuts down on fogging is you must absolutely resist wiping the inside of the lens, or taking the goggle off and wearing them on your arm/forehead. Once they go on, they need to say on to perform well. This pisses me off because I find the nosepiece on the Smiths (all goggles really) restricts my breathing through my nose, and am very prone to taking the goggles off my face at a rest stop, but I am learning to deal. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-25-2000).]

In addition to those suggestions already posted. Static Point, out of Sultan, has some wonderful classic moderate slab routes, including Online (10a), which gets progressivly harder as you get higher on the route (6,7,8,9,10a) - obviously you don't have to go to the top to enjoy the route. It is best to climb there in the late Spring or fall, as its Southern exposure lends itself to climbing in the sun. Washington Rock Climbs by Smoot has details on the approach. Another interesting suggestion is the Tooth, a staple among Seattle climbers. It is about 40 min approach from Snoqualmie Pass parking lot, and offers 4 pitches of up to 5.6 on the South Face, or other opportunitites. It can be found in Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1.

Its always interesting to me how the focus the climbers in a particular locale shifts when new guidebooks appear. In the Cascades and Coast Range, where the opporunities to climb are varied and vast, the majority of climbers tend to focus their efforts on the popular and well-known. This changes every few years as new guides are released - the most recent being Nelson's two volumes, but also Jeff Smoots Washington Rock Climbs and other works (TBP). Only a few months ago, no one had ever heard of Watusi Rodeo, or New York Gully. Today, these climbs are all I hear about. I understand that part of the appeal is that the route research is already done for you, and if you have limited time in the field, that can be important. But sometimes it borders on the rediculous. Are climbers no longer willing to explore, no longer willing to put in the time to do the crime, willing only to be spoon-fed what others think is interesting or worthy? Few of the climbers I know are willing to even deal with the Beckey guides these days (even when they are already in their third revision, go Fred!), and that is a symptom of what I am about to suggest. When was the last time you heard of anyone climbing Trapper, or Garfield, or the SE Face of the North Peak of Chimney Rock? These are surely worthy climbs, remote, difficult, rewarding. Fred Beckey is in his 70s now, and his venerable tomes of Cascades climbing history, geology, and climbing information have never seen an equal labor of love in the history of modern climbing. Who will take up the torch when he is gone? What will the next truly complete Cascades guidebook look like? Something to ponder as you work your way up the next trade route.... Alex

I posted something, but it was off-topic. Sorry. [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-23-2000).]

"Bush - hes a stronger leader.." Lhoste with the cool name, I have never met you but that makes me cringe. Bush has no record of leadership, how can you make such an unprovable statement? Bush has shown time and again in public that he lacks the experience to make the kinds of decisions a president will make - this did not stop Reagan, either, and if you tell me that all Bush needs to do is surround himself with very smart and experienced people, I would agree with you that he could hold office. (But anyone could, with that argument.) Thats why he picked Cheney. But individual intelligence and more importantly, individual experience counts big with me. Bush has none. Gore has 20+ years. Regarless of the issues, if anyone has a provable record of strong leadership skills, its Gore. Don't forget to vote! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-20-2000).]

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[ 08-14-2002, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: Alex ]

The best place to get gear is not in the US. People North of the border have been getting the real deal (REI is not the real deal) for over 20 years: Mountain Equipment Coop. Your American dollar goes a long way in Canada!

Hi, this is an interesting question that I have given some thought over the years. The short answer is, Americans and Europeans need heros, and the media caters to that. Ther is nothing wrong with funding, any professional would love to be paid (more) for what they love to do. Media coverage is not evil, it simply gives people what they want - Real TV, Survivor. People want to live vicariously through others. As for the Poles and the Czechs, the hard routes established in the Himalaya and elsewhere are no different. Easter European climbing was state and club sponsored for a very long time, making notable achievment necessary for continued funding abroad. If you were a Pole and wanted to climb, you better have some results after each season, to show your club or state that you deserved continued funding. The fact that the Pole and Czech (etc) contributions eclipse most Western contributions is a factor of the severity of failure under two distinct systems (western, and soviet). In the West, if you back off a hard route, chances are your sponsor will not drop you - you lived to climb and speak on tour another day. In the East, things are a little different. The Czechs who did Sultana and hard routes on Denali didn't go home to any better conditions, rarely went home to speaking tours, but didnt have a chance in hell of coming back should they fail. The need to succeed is higher, the result is a commitment to severity that is often missing in Western accomplishments

The most difficult route in the Cascades is the one no one has done yet. Doing hard summer routes, such as NE Rib on Slesse, in the winter, would certainly make things more interesting. Willis Wall, Yocum Ridge and routes like it were done back in the day (60s, 70s), and are completely within the possible for even the average climber. Armed with modern tools and protection (and weather forecasting), these routes are pretty much "well, how much objective hazard do you like? OK, then, off you go!"

Its really quite simple. Gore is pro-environment, Bush is pro-business concerns. There isnt much of a surprise there. Neither candidates policies will directly affect climbing..... ...unless you plan to climb in the Brooks Range. Alex