Your favorite Moderate Cascade Climbs?

[KaiLarson]

This summer, (June or early July) I'm taking my son to the Cascades to climb for 10 days or so.

 

He's not been on any glaciers, and his alpine climbing has been limited to rock. I'm looking to introduce him to snowy alpine climbing on some moderate routes.

 

I think we're going to start with Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan. Seems like a nice mix of rock, ice, and snow on a pretty mountain at a moderate grade.

 

I'm considering Stuart's West Ridge and Buckner's North Face.

 

What suggestions does the collective have for some aesthetic, moderate routes. (I've read the Selected Climbs in the Cascades books, but was looking for some personal recommendations.)

 

[ivan]

fisher chimneys is a great idea as a starter- if he doesn't like that, he's a lost cause

 

forbidden is a no-brainer intro climb too

[keenwesh]

there isn't any glacial travel on the W ridge of stuart. The north ridge however has the whole deal, also the rock climbing is much better.

[W]

The north slope of Mount Spickard by way of Silver Lake Glacier has no real technical difficulties (fortunately, since the rock is choss) but is an aesthetic and very scenic alpine outing on a nice mountain.

Take him up Eldorado Peak, also.

[montypiton]

unless its a heavy snow year (this year is a snow drought so far...) the West Ridge of Stuart is likely to be snow-free by July. North Ridge, as Keenwesh recommends, is probably a better choice. Approach is via the Stuart Glacier, then a couloir to access the ridge on the classic version of the route.

 

West Ridge of Forbidden is another gem, but you need to be on it early in the year because the access couloir is a nightmare after the snow's gone. June should be good, but again, consider that this winter is a snow drought, so don't wait too late for this one.

 

Both routes are on Roper/Steck Fifty Classic Climbs list...

 

Argonaut, in the Stuart Range, has a pair of great classic mixed routes on its north aspect: its northeast, and northwest buttresses both have steep couloir starts. The northeast couloir is longer, with a 5.6 rock finish. The northwest couloir is shorter, with a longer 5.7 rock finish. Depending on conditions, either couloir could require full on ice climbing (two tools, though protectable on rock), or they could be step-kicking up snow. Great fun, and two routes for one approach/camp. What's not to like?

 

From Washington Pass, Silverstar has a moderate glacier route with a scramble rock finish. Not difficult, but great alpine ambiance. And in June, Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires will likely have snow in the approach couloirs -- all have moderate routes.

 

NE Buttress on Mt. Goode is fun, bit of steep glacier at the bottom to access the buttress, then a looong moderate rock route to the top. (way cool summit bivvy...) Looong approach, though. Either take the boat to Stehekin and approach from the south, or hike all the way from Washington Pass if approaching from the north. Wonderfully remote, but will likely take 3-4 days.

[JasonG]

My short list includes most of the above (finish Shuksan via the uber awesome SE ridge of the summit pyramid) and:

 

-Triumph NE ridge (3 days to make it enjoyable)

-Sloan Corkscrew (can be done in one long day, but two is more enjoyable)

-Sharkfin Tower

-Ruth-Icy with bivy on summit of Ruth

- East, North, or West ridge of Forbidden- all are excellent.

-Frostbite Ridge on Glacier Peak (likely 4 days, make it a loop via Lost Creek ridge and NF Sauk).

 

In 10 days I would think you could about 3 of the trips we've all mentioned. Depending on how motivated you guys are, you will probably appreciated rest days in between. For the type of routes you are interested in, July is the probably the best time of year to climb in the Cascades. That said, if the weather is forecasted to be so-so, the Stuart range or WA pass is often a better bet. 50% chance of rain pretty much means rain on the west side of the Cascades.

 

 

[KaiLarson]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess it's been a low snow year in the Cascades then?

 

I will check back as our trip gets closer to see if anyone has conditions updates.

 

 

[tvashtarkatena]

How's his self arrest skills? Some of the routes suggested here require a climber to be very solid in that category unless you're planning on pitching out the steep bits. I wouldn't take a snow novice on them, personally, but you know your son better than any of us. You might figure out what the steepest slope angle you're willing to travel on at this point and compare that against the topo of your proposed objectives.

 

NE butt of Goode, for example. There can be some really technical snow/schrund/moat climbing to get on that thing, particularly in a low snow year, and the gully descent is loose and dangerous. Moderate for an experienced climber, sure, but it's a long day unless you can simul most or all of it and cruise through the glacier at the bottom - not a given.

 

Moderate glaciated/Snowy peaks: Shuksan, Baker, Ruth, Icy, ,Clark Mt + Buck (same area), Eldorado + Sahale + Buckner (S side)+ Booker, Bonanza (out of Holden), Chiwawa, Daniel Gl, Colchuck (gl), Rainier (emmons), Black, Sloan, Gilbert (Goat Rocks), Vesper (5.6 route), Adams (S spur - not glaciated but plenty snow), St. Helens (same as Adams), Silverstar (gl) all come mind.

 

[JasonG]

Very good point on the self arrest skills. Most of the alpine climbs around here traverse somewhat steep snow slopes where a fall could be serious or fatal. Even a relatively mellow climb like Eldorado is not trivial in that respect (though it is just the last few hundred feet of the summit ridge).

[ivan]

ack, i still remember that father-son team that died after fallign down the colchuck glacier a few years ago - and that thing seems so tame in summer...

[tvashtarkatena]

I'd take a novice up Eldo - nice to throw a little exposure in the mix, but not Argonaut, or any other steep couloir, for that matter. One balled up crampon and everything changes. What's second nature to a lot of folks here is not to a novice. One's first few experiences in a new environment are where accidents are most likely to happen. I subscribe to the 'keep it fun and mellow at first' philosophy for introducing people to the mountains. Take your cue from the novice as to how fast they want to get into it rather than trying to shortcut them to your level. Many novices choose to challenge themselves, given the chance. Others need a bit more time. Offering a menu of options helps keep it fun and better fits the learning curve to the individual. A little exposure goes a long way. A lot of exposure up front can wind up being counterproductive and dangerous.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2014 by tvashtarkatena

[ivan]

my first climb in the northwest, what got me hooked on the area and the sport, was the humble old s side of mt hood, and on the 4th of july no less

[sparverius]

Ruth/Icy are good ones. I'd add Challenger to the mix. Remote and spectacular views.

[sepultura]

The NE Ridge on Black Peak is a classic with a little bit of everything. The bivy at Wing Lakes is one of my favorites.

 

And its hard to beat a slog up the Coleman/Deming on Baker for pure glaciated glory in a true Pacific NW setting.

[montypiton]

given the discussion of self-arrest here, I feel I'd best clarify my recommendations: I've introduced all three of my sons to alpine climbing, after several years' rock climbing. although I did teach them self-arrest, I never put them in a position of having to self-arrest. I kept them on belay (or at least shortroped) in any/every exposed situation, regardless of difficulty. Of the climbs I suggested, all, except for Goode, can reasonably be "pitched out" in a day. and I have to agree with Trash - the exit from Goode is kind of a pain. A great climb, with a lousy descent. maybe more adventure than you want for a novice.

I stand by my Argonaut recommends, though. Both routes are really fun, and, yes, moderate. But I admit, it would never occur to me to take a novice on either one unroped. I climbed these routes with experienced partners, and even though the climbing was moderate, and our self arrest skills second nature, we still climbed roped, and protected.

[Rad]

There are many mountaineering skills that are taken for granted by most of those posting above but can kill you if you do them wrong. For example, many mountain outings will have some sections of unroped class three scrambling over loose and exposed terrain. A misstep or pull on a loose block could be catastrophic, even fatal. Ditto a trip on steep hard snow above rocks. River crossings can also be sketchy.

 

In short, try to look at the whole experience, not just the "technical" part of the climb. The section where you're actually roped up and on belay may actually be the safest part of your trip. Anyone who's been to the Pickets will probably agree.

 

There are some really easy outings that are truly spectacular. One is the Sahale Arm. Risks are low. Views are unbelievable, and you are close to some amazing terrain. The full N Ridge of Stuart is amazing, and carries few non-rock hazards, but you need to be able to move fast and efficiently over a lot of terrain. Backbone ridge on Dtail is outstanding, but again you need to be able to move fast, and the snow entry and exit can be sketchy without an ax at certain times of the year. IMHO glaciers should probably be avoided unless you have a team of 3-4 on a rope and at most of them have solid arrest and crevasse rescue skills. Have I violated that advice? Yes. Would I take my kids on that terrain in similar circumstances? No.

 

We look forward to photos of your trip and don't want to hear you've gotten in an accident. Learn, have fun, be safe, and live to climb another day.

[tvashtarkatena]

My rule of thumb for steep snow: If an experienced climber isn't comfortable climbing a snow route unroped, a beginner shouldn't be there with or without a rope.

 

 

 

[KaiLarson]

My son isn't a complete novice. He's done a number of alpine rock routes with me, including some where we spent the better part of the climb moving quickly on relatively easy but very exposed terrain, where a fall would be very serious. He can keep his cool in the face of big exposure and is comfortable moving over easy ground with minimal protection.

 

He's a competent water ice climber, and has done some alpine snow and ice climbs with me in Colorado in RMNP.

 

That said, the Cascades are quite a bit different than anything found in Colorado or Utah, so we're going to take it easy and start slow.

 

I appreciate all of the suggestions. My plan is to do Fisher Chimneys first, weather permitting, and then pick our next objective based on how things go on that route. I'm glad to have all of the input, as it will give me an array of climbs to choose from.

[Off_White]

North Ridge of Forbidden is one of my favorite Cascade moderate outings, its got something of everything I love about the range. Crossing the Boston Glacier is the real deal in terms of glacier travel though. Descending the West Ridge makes it a full circumnavigation.

 

North Ridge of Stuart was my son's first alpine route, it was a pretty fabulous introduction. Glacier travel is minimal, but as noted by others, snow skills are desirable.

[Lowell_Skoog]

You might consider setting up a high camp somewhere instead of doing a lot of approaches to individual climbs. Some ideas:

 

* Kool Aid Lake area (Magic, Mixup, Hurry-up, Spider, Formidable)

* Eldorado Peak area (Triad, Eldorado, Dorado Needle, Klawatti, etc)

* Boston Basin (Sahale, Boston, Buckner, Sharkfin, Forbidden, Torment)

* Monte Cristo area (lots of peaks around Glacier Basin)

* Dakobed Range (make a loop out of it, from the White River)

* Railroad Creek area (Bonanza, Chiwawa, Fortress, Dumbell)

* Entiat Range (Maude, 7-Fingered Jack, Fernow)

* Dome Peak area (Dome, Sinister, Gunsight, Spire Point)

* Terror Basin (Southern Picket peak bagging)

 

That's a good start!

 

[genepires]

I think the standard option for fisher chimneys is to camp at lake anne and do the entire climb from there. this has the first day being rather short and the second day very long and increases the need to camp at lake anne for another night.

 

another option is for the first day to keep going past lake anne and climb up the chimneys with light bivy gear. climb up to just below the winnies slide where there are small sleeping bag bivy sites up against a cliff. this makes the second day shorter. The bigger benefit is that the views are stunning and you get to enjoy them for a long time, not just a glimpse as you hustle up and down. Sometimes BE-ing there is much better than scurrying through.

[DPS]

Sometimes BE-ing there is much better than scurrying through.

 

I completely agree. I did many of my climbs car to car when my daughter was young because my free time was limited, now I love to bivi, it is all part of the experience.

 

The bivis on top of Winnie's Slide, right below the entrance to the Upper Curtis, are AMAZING, plus you get running water coming right off of the glacier.

Edited February 22, 2014 by DPS

[Alex]

Yeah. I did Fisher Chimneys in a day car to car with Holly H, and it was a really long day; it might be better to break it up at least a little bit. I'd say if you are going to bivy, a bivy at the top of the Chimneys is a pretty nice spot if the weather is good.

[dougd]

"My plan is to do Fisher Chimneys first, weather permitting, and then pick our next objective based on how things go on that route."

 

Good choice to start. You'll be able to get a good look around from the summit.

 

d

Edited February 22, 2014 by dougd

[kukuzka1]

Sometimes BE-ing there is much better than scurrying through.

 

I completely agree. I did many of my climbs car to car when my daughter was young because my free time was limited, now I love to bivi, it is all part of the experience.

 

The bivis on top of Winnie's Slide, right below the entrance to the Upper Curtis, are AMAZING, plus you get running water coming right off of the glacier

.

I agree also, sometimes its nice to enjoy the alpin slowly