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Everything posted by DPS

  1. Given the amount of snow and your timeframe, I suggest snow/ice climbs. These are all conditions dependent, all are avalanche prone. The Washington Pass routes are typically best done as soon after the pass opens as possible. Some ideas: Washington Pass: - Early Winters Couloir (Couloir between east faces of North and South Early Winters Couloir - West Face of Silver Star Peak - East Face Couloir of Cuthroat - Southwest Gulley of South Early Winters Couloir - North Face of Greybeard Stuart Range: - North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck - NE Couloir on Argonaut - Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt Stuart - West Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart - NE Couloir to East Ridge of Sherpa Cascade Pass: - NW Ice Couloir on Eldorado - Cascade-Johannesberg Couloir to East Face of Johannesberg Peak - West Face of Sahale Peak - North Face of Mt Buckner
  2. This brings back memories. Or rather, nightmares.
  3. Hi Loren, Alex is still in Bellevue. He hasn't been climbing much lately, been sailing more. He was heading to the Rockies with one of his boys last month though. Wanted me to join, but I couldn't. Dan
  4. White River Road typically does not open until Memorial Day WE, so that will add ~ 11 miles to the approach round trip. Biking that section speeds things up a bit. I would personally wait for the first good weather window after the road opens.
  5. Great photos! Of the half-dozen or so routes that I've done on Hood, RGH ranks as my favorite!
  6. You presented some seriously bad information in your blog post, just straight up wrong. You should not be giving any kind of advice on climbing. Guides were snapping at you because you were doing something stupid. I also take umbrage of your description of guides. The guides I know want to give their guests the best possible experience, not just take their guests' money. "Another significant reason I would not do it guided is that their priority is not to get you to the summit safely. ... if a guide happens to be doing multiple trips in a season, their priority may be to get their next group started and your trip over with. Meaning they need to get your team off of the mountain so that they can start their next group of clients and take their money."
  7. Using a foil windscreen and a water bath work pretty well for extending the season of my Pocket Rocket.
  8. DPS

    Mt Borah in late Fall?

    Hi Dane! I am in Boise now and I have been trying to find out the same thing. There is very little information avaliable on alpine climbing in Idaho, especially in the winter. I have been chatting with a guy who has climbed it fall/winter, and aparently avalaches are a big concern, but if conditions are safe then the face should go. If you are looking for a partner hit me up. I am gainfully unemployed and have a flexible schedule. Dan
  9. I was expecting to see some junk in the van, not HIS junk.
  10. I remember when the Boat Launch wall was retrobolted in the early 90's, replacing the old 1/4" bolts with 3/8" bolts. Were additional bolts added or the 25+ year old bolts replaced?
  11. Is that a 30 Rock reference? I just finished binge watching the entire 7 seasons before I go back to work.
  12. I think I saw this guy walking down the Apron 30 feet to the right of Banana Peel.
  13. I used to bus commute across the I-90 bridge and every time my wrists would hurt while in the Mt. Baker tunnel. Turns out I had a case of carpool tunnel syndrome.
  14. https://www.climbing.com/people/drew-ruana-theres-no-reason-to-climb-if-it-makes-you-sad/?fbclid=IwAR3KHP7tjldwYHWSYAHlslP-KgVtw-xXPm3R4KDyFD4I0Q4hMNHT5u-NHH8
  15. That is a MONGO trip report. I feel like I climbed the route now. Nice work on the climb and thanks for keeping us arm chair alpinists entertained!
  16. DPS

    Alpine BUCKS

    Now that you mention it I don't recall seeing many, if any, deer in the high country.
  17. I'll never give up my hexes, but I have some Tricams that I would be happy to unload. I have pink, red, and brown available. I've carried them a few times but only placed each one maybe once or twice. The slings are in good shape and they have been stored in a sealed plastic bin. Email daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested.
  18. Flipping channels the other day and caught a really bad movie set in an exotic mountain range with what was clearly Mt. Shuksan in the background.
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