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keenwesh

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keenwesh last won the day on March 26

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About keenwesh

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  • Birthday 08/30/1992

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  1. Conditions for complete NR of Stuart

    Probably good to go from mountaineers creek, descending the sherpa glacier will only get worse later on.
  2. Food/Meal Planning for Denali

    You could survive the whole winter up there with all the stuff that people give away at 14 camp after a good weather window. The best food is food that you didn’t drag 10 miles. All those things will last, and can be easily bought in Anchorage. Bagels are best in terms of durability.
  3. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Brad has been doing what he's been doing for years, he's not much of an up and comer, or "new guy". As far as where he's ending up soon, my guess is the valley. The season is almost here.
  4. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Really sounding like a grumpy old man here, dude. When someone loses a friend or loved one do you tell them to not feel sad? I don’t know how you feel all the time, and it’s none of my business. The feelings police don’t have any solid ground to stand on. Empathy. Only good that can come from this type of thing. If you feel sad, that’s fine, if you’re surprised, concerned, heartbroken, totally okay. If posting on the internet helps you, go right ahead. No one can judge the appropriate level of grief for another person. All that you have to give is compassion and love. I dont feel feel very good right now, and I feel like many others are feeling the same way. Take care everyone, and I love all of you that make up this community.
  5. If your budget is that tight you might get more bang for your buck climbing somewhere else. The main selling point of the AK range is that for $600 bucks you get dropped off right at the base of some huge and remote mountains. Zero approach, go climbing. Spending an additional week on either end thrashing in and back out seems like more expensive than the flight. I'm soft though, I've been talking about hiking out of the range for 5 years, and have yet to give it a go.
  6. Could be warm enough, depends on the style and time that you'll be up there. I would say if you're going in June, and are fit and confident enough to climb to and from the summit quickly they very well could be perfect. If you are planning a trip where you'll stay at 17 camp and be on a rope team the whole time, and therefore more limited in your ability to turn around and be back in camp quickly if your toes get cold, I'd say you might consider going for a different set of doubles. Whatever boot you choose to go with, make sure it's comfortable! You'll be spending a lot of time in them, and tender toes are not fun or worth it. I stupidly brought a pair of boots that were warm, but didn't fit my feet very well. I made it back to 14 camp with screaming feet, and once I removed my socks, found that I had a silver dollar sized blood blister on the bottom of each of my big toes. Wore my (also ill fitting) ski boots for the rest of the trip. Bottom line is they're on the lighter side of warm, and denali can be a very cold place.
  7. Dynamic sport/gym belays

    It's much better to fall a few extra feet vertically instead of a shorter, harder catch that spikes you into the wall, especially in the gym, where falls are common and expected. I'm a big guy, so I have to be especially careful when I'm belaying to hop as the rope comes tight, otherwise I can cause the falling person to tweak or even break their ankles or legs. A hard catch can also increase the chances of a leader inverting in a fall, as everything happens much faster with more force, there is less time to stabilize before coming to a stop. Developing the skills to give a dynamic catch safely and automatically is right up there with keeping your hand on the brake strand for importance, especially gym and sport climbing. Less than vertical and ledgy terrain the falling climber is unlikely to be falling fast enough for a hard catch to hurt them, hitting ledges and protrusions keeps their speed (mostly) in check. Best to just not fall when facing that below.
  8. question GPS Sports Watches

    If you're an AAC member you can get good deals on Suunto watches. I think I got an ambit3 for 60% off.
  9. 1 week - end of march - alpine where?

    Cham was dry last march, not much ice on anything. RMNP can be really good at that time. It's pretty scrappy climbing, maybe not classic but excellent preparation for when you have to lead some scrappy pitch in the big mountains.
  10. 1 week - end of march - alpine where?

    The ghost is great in late march. Still plenty of ice, with the possibility for mild temps and longer days can make camping quite enjoyable. If you've never been there'll be plenty to stay occupied for a week. Bring a 4x4.
  11. Hayden Kennedy Dead

    Hayden was thoughtful and analytical. I knew him as part of the crew who we'd get a beer with, or boulder at the gym and talk about whatever. I remember a day where he wanted to see how many harder problems he could climb consecutively, while never climbing up or down a problem more than once. After 3 routes he popped off a hold, rolled off the ground, and with a big goofy grin said "now that's how you get a pump!". At the bar or dinner, even though we weren't very close, he always took the time to have a one on one conversation with me, asking how I was doing, my plans, basic stuff. I work for another christmas lighting company, and we would swap stories about my boss (Hayden had received a few calls to his company over the years from our clients that had been completely ghosted by our company, 'Get me out of Christmas light hell!" had been the opener for one such call). Hayden was so wonderful and special, not because of his talents as a climber, but for the way he moved though and interacted with those around him. He didn't talk himself up, only wanting to hear about what you were doing, and thrived on the success of those around him. All I got out him before he left for the Kashmir was that he was going to India, afterwards he was similarly stoic. The alpinist piece, published the following summer, was shocking, not only for what they climbed, but for the way it was written. I have felt the same way on big climbs that I have done, but have never been able to express those emotions to another person. He wasn't obsessive, but he was a wonderful person who I and many others will miss dearly. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/wfeature-light-before-wisdom
  12. question Alpine, ice climbing pack

    Cilogear packs are great, but only really last for a year before exploding. Because if this I've switched to hyperlight packs for actual alpine climbing. Again, durability isn't great, but if you only use them for your one big trip a year they're great. Overall I like the rolltop closure, although it can be finnicky at times. I just started using a CCW pack and am psyched, although so far it's just been for summertime rock usage. It's much cheaper and durable than those other options. For anything in the lower 48 it's what I'd use. So much of the time I think having the lightest best thing isn't really going to make any difference. I'd suggest getting a new CCW. Cilo will last you a year before turning into a hamper bag with shoulder straps, and hyperlight, while nice, isn't really essential unless you're climbing in alaska or a similar big mountain area.
  13. Ptarmigan Traverse Shuttle?

    Hi all, Anyone have plans to do the Ptarmigan in the next week and a half or so? I would like to do it, but need a work around for the shuttle. Tagging along with someone else would be great. If I showed up at the southern trailhead on a weekend would there be a reasonable chance of hitching back to Cascade Pass? How long might I end up sleeping in the ditch?
  14. Running those long distances is so much fun, I feel like it's a bit of a toss up between spending a longer time in there and just the sheer enjoyment of covering so much ground in a day. Out and backs are a little bit better on the scenery front as I find myself not really looking around much towards the end of the day. Instead of sightseeing I'm usually staring at the ground in front of me repeating the mantra "Faster I run, sooner I'm done" I picked up a couple guys hitchhiking at the Ross lake trailhead last week that said you guys had run by them, glad to see the spraydown on here!
  15. Speed records in Washington

    I went in with a buddy 2 days ago and ran Goode in 13.41 c2c. Not sure how recently the fire on the north side of park creek burned, but that descent was pretty miserable and slow. Short of that nightmare, fantastic route. Could almost certainly go a few hours faster. We spent 20 minutes hanging around the summit. Wahoo! Ps, doing Logan after Goode would be a wild ride, shorter mileage but almost double the vert. North cascades are a special playground ya'll have up here.
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