Rad

I agree, though we can both work at the larger level (oppose rollback of fuel efficiency standards) and the individual level (buy an EV, bike, carpool, take the bus).

Stop trying to pass the buck. Most of those companies are creating products you/we buy and use. Gas companies? Put them out of business by switching to renewables. Companies selling stuff we don't need? Just say no. And for the others demand that they abide by environmental laws and regulations and support enforcement of these. Vote for pols that support protection of the environment and planet. As consumers and voters we can and should use whatever means we can to address this challenge. Our kids will be looking back wondering WTF we were doing/not doing when the signs were so clear.

Another reason I gave up beef: 80% of Amazon rainforest cutting is to clear land for raising cattle. linky

It's eye opening to learn about the numbers around energy production, usage, and the climate. That may help inform whether you stop driving to the crag or flying to ski resorts, or if you want to buy a sweater and turn your heat down a degree or two in the winter. Check out David MacKay's book/page if you want to see the numbers: book One small thing: consider an electric car (still not great for long range trips yet due to lack of charging stations, but driving closer to home can work). In much of the PNW we have about 95% of our electricity from hydro, which is a clean and renewable energy source (sorry salmon). I still drive the family minivan.

Wow! Thanks for the report. It falls into a special category of writing because it gives us a window into your minds and hearts. I see parts of myself in the mirror of your words and photos. In the earliest days of my climbing I told myself I wasn't willing to die climbing. I only climbed rocks and never free soloed, so it seemed safe, but over the years I still found myself in more than a few 'if you screw up you die' moments. In the Pacific Northwest, I learned that mountains harbor a lot more of those moments than cragging cliffs, and some are not easy to appreciate until you're in them. My risk tolerance changed when I became a parent but not a huge amount. I've been a dad for over a decade now. I still love alpine climbing, but there are lots of other things I love too. My partners and I recognize that every time we go into the mountains we are rolling the dice. We prepare, we stay on our toes, we talk things through, and sometimes we back off, but we recognize that you can do everything right and still die in the mountains. I'm blown away that Fred climbed for about seventy years without a major accident. I don't expect to be that lucky, and I know my abilities and risk tolerance will continue their downward trend. And yet, I still have alpine dreams and try to get out into the mountains every year. I'm guessing you will too. Thanks again. Cheers, Rad Edit: Ps. The part about your car is disturbing. I'm so sorry. Some humans suck. Karma will get them.

Super. Thanks for the TR. Glad you got lucky on the smoke! Our family goes to Stehekin every year and I've been eyeing those peaks since 2003, wondering if there was any quality rock up there. Sounds like the views are great but the loose rock and choss guarding the summits are rather unpleasant. I appreciate your honest assessment.

Not glacier glasses but UV, eyes, sunglasses: Article on UV damage to eyes Explanation w scientific references You'll note that a significant mode of exposure is reflection off the back of the glasses into the eyes. IMHO, reflection off snow is a concern in alpine climbing. When planning extended snow travel, consider using darker glasses and minimizing exposure due to reflection off the back of the glasses by wearing glasses that are larger and/or fit closer to your eyes and/or have barriers to prevent light entry from the sides/bottom.

Lovely. Such good rock. Thanks for the TR!

Holy Himmelgeisterhorn! We must now engrave thy names in the Choss Chalice alongside the alpinists of yore!

Buy local, support the good guys: Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports, real guidebook authors instead of Rakkup, etc.

The photo above is clearly over the top. But I'm arguing that we need to do more than cover our business and hope for the best. Marmots, mountain goats, rodents, and perhaps other critters may dig up your smelly offering and spread it around. Moreover, if it lies in gravel where there are few or no bacteria and fungi living it'll run into the nearest water source when the fall rains wash through the gravel. So yes, we need to do more than cover it in the alpine. See what Climbing has to say: Poop guide for climbers Maybe I should apply for the PN job

I'd be willing to bet you've had partners who've taken a dump in alpine terrain, laid it to rest in a shallow grave of gravel, put a rock over it, and called it good even though there was little chance their deposit would be biodegraded in a reasonable timeframe compared to if they had sought richer soils...

To be fair, people can be assholes, literally, in the environment. Sometimes it's from laziness or downright deliberate disregard for protocol, but sometimes it's from ignorance. I think a lot of people don't understand that there is little opportunity for biodegradation of their poop in many alpine settings. Bottom line (so to speak) is people should first try to use toilets in the vicinity when possible and learn to do their business 200 feet from any water source, find rich organic soil where decay is likely to happen, dig a hole at least 10 inches deep, bury all business, and put a rock on it afterward to keep critters from digging it up again. If the soil is too rocky to dig a hole it's probably not a good place to go in the first place because there won't be enough microbial activity to decompose things. If you can't find a place to go properly, then use the blue bags you've been provided.

This was our experience on the 4th class "Pink Slabs" of Sky Pilot a few weeks ago. We didn't have a rope, and my son didn't feel comfortable soloing the slab in his mountaineering boots, which I respected. After some discussion, he decided to wait on the ridge there while I tagged the summit and returned. I told him I was proud of his decision and explained that the views weren't that much better from the top. @montypiton I'm a fan of the hip belay. It doesn't require any rigging and can be quite secure if the person doing it is properly anchored and/or situated. It's also faster than pulling the rope through a belay device.

Agreed. That's the path that JasonG suggested. ForestM had another variation of that involving traversing closer to the Dorado itself. He described 60 degree down climbing on snow, which deterred us. We took photos of the upper McAllister glacier (which you can see on the approach to Dorado Col) and decided the angle of the slope combined with the extent of open crevasses made that less desirable for us. I'm not suggesting our is the only way to go. Everyone should do their homework and read conditions on the ground and come to their own plan.