Rad

No TR. GITM was an interesting rappelling adventure because it's quite overhanging in places.

Great question. In our case, we got off route after about 5 or 6 pitches and ended up rapping the route through the night. That's not the desired finish or descent!!

We approached this route via Stuart Lake and Horseshoe Lake. No bushwhacking at all. I'd suggest you pick up a copy of Blake Herrington's book for all the beta you need for this route. Cascades Rock Guidebook

You might want to talk to guides about what their life is like before you sell all worldly possessions to go become one. It's a long road to get there, and it might not be what you envision.

This works unless you have a user name like mine that appears in the text of many trip reports.

An excellent read. Thank you for linking the primary source. Two quotes stand out: First, the Court acknowledges that, "The climbing community appreciates the inherent danger of the sport and is perceived to value the individual freedom of a backcountry experience." and this ruling in many ways upholds the right of climbers to preserve that freedom. Second, the closing sentence makes me smile: "The record in this case may have been more helpful to the court had both counsel devoted more time and effort developing the facts and less time and effort squabbling with each other"

@JasonG agree. I remember that there was helicopter accident on Hood during a rescue attempt. Video here: Hood heli accident video

The original 911 call didn't convey the urgent need for heli evac because, at the admission of the caller, they didn't appreciate how serious the situation was. It's unclear if a faster response could have changed the outcome. What counts is not time to helicopter but time to surgery if there is internal bleeding pressing on vital organs. See below. A friend's son was crew on a private boat in SE Alaska. They stopped and everyone went for a short hike. He apparently slipped and fell about 20 feet while trying to take a leak on a steep section. He became increasingly short of breath during the hike back and collapsed and lost consciousness upon arrival at the boat. He died. Autopsy revealed that he'd had a bleed into the pericardium in what's known as Cardiac tamponade. In simpler terms, blood or fluid in the sac around the heart compresses the heart and it stops beating. I suspect that, or something similar, is what happened to this poor young man on Hood. @glassgowkiss I agree with #1. #2 would be great if there were funding and expertise to pull it off. Rescue in the US is run by law enforcement (County Sheriff's Office) with support from volunteers, military, and sometimes specially trained staff as in North Cascades or Mt Rainier or Yosemite. A 2 hour delay to a road accident response is unreasonable. But what about 45 minutes if there is bad traffic, or you're in a rural site, or your accident has been put on low priority because the initial call didn't indicate that it warranted the most urgent response and the response team was at another accident? Defining what is reasonable is not always easy.

Washington Post article This is disturbing on several levels. First and foremost, a young man died. Second, the family is seeking financial gain from an emergency response situation where there doesn't seem to be a clear case of negligence. Third, fallout of the lawsuit may be mis-guided regulations on climbers, as happened with PLB legislation in Oregon following a tragic accident about a decade ago. As climbers, we take risks. Shit happens. Timely rescue is not guaranteed. We and our heirs need to accept these things. Hopefully. this lawsuit will get thrown out. It's an interesting topic for discussion in any case.

2 person travel on glaciers is probably best reserved for very experienced people and/or very low consequence glaciers. One mistake by either could kill both. Maybe you can find a safer ski objective.

Way to persevere! There is a lot of great content in this guide, including new routes and history around old ones.

Amazing photos. As always.