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Rad

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Rad last won the day on August 8

Rad had the most liked content!

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About Rad

  • Rank
    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 03/01/1978

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  • Occupation
    scientist
  • Location
    The Emerald City
  1. Lovely. Great vision and execution. I need to get back in there again. It's been too long.
  2. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    Is this the accident you're thinking of @Bronco Buck Mountain accident
  3. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I agree this type of terrain can be very dangerous and it's very hard to avoid it on alpine approaches and descents. I try to see the failure scenarios and evaluate probabilities and consequences just as you would for the "real" climbing on your trip. That and stay focused, present, not distracted. As Jason said, I don't see the rope being helpful in very many cases.
  4. Smoke Conditions in Stuart Range?

    Smoke forecasts can be powerful, but there can be local effects in valleys and mountains that push things around quite a bit on a daily basis. On the down side you might not get the best distance photos. On the plus side, you might see some great sunsets!
  5. Learn as much as you can about glaciers. They're fascinating, but they command respect. Do your homework, try to objectively evaluate conditions, discuss both with your partners, come to your own decisions and don't worry too much about what other people think. They weren't there. Most importantly, don't let what other people do or don't do drive your decisions in the mountains. If you climb for any length of time you'll meet people with higher risk tolerance than you and others with lower risk tolerance. This is an important thing to discuss with potential partners. Just because some people got away with something doesn't mean you will, or that they will next time. That said, in the mountains speed is often closely linked to safety, so there are non-trivial trade-offs to make. If you rope up for everything you'll never get far.
  6. Matterhorn questions

    Google translate. If you use Chrome it will recognize other languages and ask if you want the page translated. Not perfect, and will probably botch climbing terms, but these things are getting pretty good.
  7. Close call for Summitchaser

    Slipped on a banana peel. You can see it at 1:20 That hair!!!
  8. A wonderful Pickets adventure. Thanks for sharing and for not getting beaned in the RCOD!
  9. Best climbing film I've seen in a while. You might want to wear a diaper while watching the sequence starting around 28:00. Lama is the real deal and it seems like he's maturing well while still pushing the limits.
  10. Heading North for a few days and thinking about taking one or more of our teen kids up W Ridge of Sky Pilot. Can anyone comment on the conditions of the Stadium glacier? Crampons and ax essential? Rope? Moat issues? Seriously crevassed? Can these be easily skirted? Any info would be helpful. Thinking of approach and deproach via gondola. Thx much
  11. [TR] Goode - NE Buttress 07/22/2018

    You were well ahead of us. We didn't start hiking from High Bridge until about 3:30, arrived at North Fork around 6. We both had absolutely perfect weather. Not a cloud in the sky for days on end, no smoke, not too hot. Truly magnificient. On our trip, I snapped photos of 31 different types of wildflowers in bloom.
  12. [TR] Goode - NE Buttress 07/22/2018

    Sweet! We were camped at the N Fork campground on a fam backpacking trip on the 20th, so maybe you passed right by us. It seems that timing is key on this route. Too early and you're in for a dangerous creek crossing. Too late and the glacier/moat issues are sketchy. And then there is the 8000 foot descent in the sun... Hopefully I'll get this done at some point. Thanks for the inspiration!
  13. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    Wow. I'd also read the accounts from this past weekend and guessed that he was toast. So great to hear a happy ending in the mountains. Sounds like he could have been torn apart like a medieval tortue rack victim if the anchor had been any stronger. Phew! Maybe the mountain spirits are telling him to take up golf...
  14. Sweet and sloppy. "...complete with a horsefly - where do these things come from?" - I'm sure it was thinking the same about you.
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