Rad

Thanks for the TR and note. Sounds like a fun day. As we discussed via PM, the intermediate anchor is fine. The bolt hanging out is not an anchor but one on the 3rd pitch. It was botched and a new one was placed nearby, and we haven't had the tools in hand to remove the botched one and patch the hole. Hopefully we will get to that this fall. FWIW, you can now get up and down w a single 60m rope. From the summit, rap to the LOWER anchor at the top of p6. Then rap to the UPPER anchor above the dihedral. The rest is the same, with separate anchors to reduce congestion. Warning, if you use the dedicated rap anchor skier's left of the p1 anchor, be careful not to let your rope run into a constriction. I got a rope stuck there once at night by myself. Escaped by moving back to the original p1 anchor and flipping rope. Last week I was careful not to let the rope run in the constriction, but it was still really hard to pull. Not sure why. So maybe just stick with the original p1 anchor. You can get down to the starting ledge from there w a single 60, but it's close so tie knots and be careful.

Impressive!

There were a lot on the glaciers around Eldorado last August. if you set up camp there you can examine a lot of glaciers and snowfields within an hour of camp. The approach is is steep but there is a good trail. You can see some in the photos in our TR from a trip last year:

Yep, plus if you repeatedly bang your big toe on the end of the boot you'll end up bruising the nail bed, which is painful, and you will likely lose your toenail(s) weeks or months afterward. Been there done that.

Thanks for the TR. I've got to put this on my list as I love that area but might have outgrown the type 2+ fun of J'berg...

Thanks for the additional info @Lowell_Skoog I've talked to two other parties that had epic experiences getting off the mountain. I'm glad you and they all came out OK.

Yikes! Sounds like he was lucky to come out OK. Look forward to hearing about your next adventure!

I was up on Pinnacle peak last weekend with my son when a friendly S WA dude said there was this AMAZING thing called Tower rock near Randle that just saw it's first ascent a few years ago, and he heard it had amazing potential for more routes. I looked at Google earth and images online and got interested. Then I went to Mtn Project and found Rapunzel, and that brought me back here to all of your Beowulfian tales @ivan @billcoe. Your immortality is now complete. Any new lines or projects down yonder? Has Adam Ondra done the FFA yet?

Sounds like you had a classic trip on a classic route. Thanks for the report! You can add photos easily too if you want.

Thanks for such a detailed account. You gave a very intimate account of an adventure that was powerful in many ways. You also showed the kind of perseverance needed on trips like this. Personally, I've never aspired to do big mountain, high altitude trips, and that doesn't change after reading your report. Too much objective danger for my taste. Years ago I trekked in the Kangchenjunga region, so your story brings back memories of mountain villages, friendly Nepalis, and our own stories of crappy logistics.

Yes, it would be interesting to have a chart on the number of climbers who boulder outdoors, rope climb, alpine climb, ice climb, etc and to see how those have changed over time.

The State of Climbing Report is out and some of the numbers and trends are interesting. Download the report here Not surprisingly, the number of climbers is growing. I wish there were a lot more data on this and trends over time. How much is climbing growing? How many people climb outside? Climb in gyms? Some of this is in Outdoor Industry Associaion reports, and I'm not sure where to access the right reports. Interestingly, the amount spent on gear has risen and this was largely due to increasing unit prices. Also interestingly, prices have changed unevenly. Rope prices have dropped substantially whereas prices for belay devices, shoes, and other gear have risen. A majority of climbers are white and male, so the diversity doesn't reflect the US population. Accident and fatality rates have mostly stayed flat over the past 40 years even though the number of climbers has been rising. I find this to be an interesting and perhaps encouraging trend. There are plenty of questions. For example, what is the definition of a climber for the purposes of these surveys? Who was surveyed? What response rate did they get? There are lots of unanswered questions. Still interesting. Climbing is growing and changing. Personally, I think this is a good thing because some new climbers will become passionate enough to work on conservation, access, and other issues that help protect and improve climbing resources for all of us.

If you mean the W Ridge of Stuart, WTA Ingalls lake TRs show snow below Long John Tower, which probably means there will be more in the slot as you pass the tower. You'd probably also encounter some at the entry to the Cascadian Coulour, though sometimes you can skirt that by staying high and left for a bit. Maybe someone w first hand knowledge will chime in here. If I were going I'd bring a lightweight ax. Have fun!

Congratulations on your summit and surviving those other falls and risky bits. Watch these excellent Steve House videos on alpine climbing when you get a chance. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOYnpuacr0hmFlciAgGvMYw Here's the first one of five:

Wow! Looks wild Fred Beckey country.