kukuzka1

Really? what routes dose Mr Smoot have for Buckner and Sherpa?

Looks like Smoot's to blame. People love lists did not read earlier comments so nevermind

Well at 5.11a/b maybe so but it would be 5.10 A1 if I tried it. hell these days probably 5.8 A1

Whats the grade? looks kinda interesting

Really? you can descend el cap with that many

I believe in early season it's because of icy places and snow covering some of the rap stations. Always thought of trying it in winter but never tried it. yet...

So you guys climbed left of the lower north ridge start?

"We left the parking lot at 8:00 AM, and got back at around 2:00PM the next day." WOW! espic

Well Kinda do because the I-VI grades are supposed to take into account the overall seriousness of a route, but a grade solely for seriousness is true

I do not know exactly where their route goes but I am guessing this is the aprox line as he mentions in the post when they emerged onto the north ridge they were surprised they missed the access gully to the upper north ridge and they were close to the gendarme. I think I have seen photo with some steep good ice in the lower ridge. PHOTO CREDIT ED COOPER Also at the base of the gendarme they finished on the NE face

Is an old school III+/IV and new school IV+ It's hard to give any climb in the lower 48's a grade of V with the hardest moves being 5.7 and mostly 4th class. Maybe in Canada or Alaska but....

http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990#page/80 Here is a link to the story, was actually in December not February and the route is called Surrogate Panama http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990

I have not been up there in a long time but at that time it (July 92) was cruiser up and we went down that way and there was a little rockfall, definitely not a place to linger, I believe we were un-roped. I'll check for some photos. Only a summit photo found.

I know the right most routes get pretty bad reviews but the 1963 route had good rock/pro and a few really nice 5.7ish pitches right before you hit the perm-snow up high. we did it c2c in about 14 hrs

Okay Thanks