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Everything posted by Rad

  1. Wow! Nice work! As you prepare for bigger objectives, consider watching the Alpine Mentors videos from Steve House to up your mental game. Really good stuff. They are on the page here: https://www.alpinementors.org/ Happy New Year y'all!
  2. Beacon

    Ivan on lap 187 of Das Baconlard in a Class 3 atmospheric river, then getting a speedy 188 in a sun break: Video
  3. review Sewer wanted

    What's the difference between a sewer and a sewer? . . . One sews shit and the other sows shit (I have to pay $$$ to fix the latter recently so that shit is on my mind).
  4. Brad Gobright died in a fall in Potrero Chico. Kyra Condie and Nathanial Coleman qualified for the Olympics and local star Sean Bailey came super close (videos on IFSC Youtube). Emily Harrington had a big fall on El Cap but walked away with only minor injuries. I think I have emotional whiplash.
  5. idea Let's talk clothing systems.

    Ditto. I often get sweaty hiking to the start of technical climbing and will change into a clean dry base layer before roping up and launching. Best to avoid getting sweaty in the first place, if possible, but carrying a pack swiftly uphill is going to lead to sweat for me in most conditions. Don't be silly, start chilly!
  6. The heli pilots should have a good indication of where these goodies were tossed. Or maybe we can look for nibbling goats and snaffles acting strangely.
  7. A complicated selection process is turning into a hot mess as the japanese climbing federation sues IFSC over Olympic selection issues. I know some of you old curmudgeons don't care about climbing in the Olympics, but it's a big deal, and Team Japan has been dominating comps for a few years now. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out. Hopefully IFSC can fix this mess sooner rather than later. Japanese article on JMSCA suing IFSC Discussion of same
  8. Booty discussion

    Can you keep the gear you find at a climbing area or not? That is the question. Apparently, some people don't understand this important part of climbing culture, so here is a reminder in the form of a case study. BOOTY = Finder may keep it without guilt or return it at their discretion. Loser should not expect gear returned. NOT BOOTY = finder should attempt to find the loser and return his/her gear, a finder's fee or some other form of gratitude is generally appropriate. Single biner or quickdraw and/or piece of removable protection on a climb that was probably left by someone who bailed because it was too hard/scary. BOOTY. 1-2 cams/nuts on a route, probably by left by someone who bailed or a partner who couldn't clean them or some stoners who just forgot them. BOOTY. Biner on slings or otherwise in an anchor where it looks like people belay and/or rappel, particularly in the alpine. NOT BOOTY. Quickdraws or perma-draws on every bolt of a steep sport route where it's difficult to clean/place quickdraws. NOT BOOTY. Nut or other removable protection in an anchor in the alpine. Probably NOT BOOTY unless the rest of the anchor is super solid. Gear left in a bucket/bag under a rock/tree near climbs where route development/maintenance is happening. NOT BOOTY. Someone's cute ass. Definitely BOOTY, but you need consent to grab it and/or take it home. Feel free to add your own cases and spread the word.
  9. Booty discussion

    Abandoned property. Climbers usually only leave gear mid-route when they are retreating. My partner and I bailed off Gorillas in the Mist a few years ago when we got off route up high in the face of approaching wet weather. We rapped down complex, overhanging terrain in the dark, leaving multiple nuts, slings, and carabiners. We split the cost of the gear we left behind. It's loss was a small price to pay for safely getting off the route. It didn't occur to me then, and doesn't now, that we might ask future parties to collect our abandoned gear and return it to us. That seems like a very entitled attitude. Whoever finds these things is welcome to keep them. If that person chooses to search for the owners because that's what they want to do, then that's their prerogative. In another example, I inadvertently left my helmet high on the corkscrew trail on Sloan when Brandon and I unroped to scramble for the summit after climbing Diamond in the Rough. A few years later, I was communicating with another Sloan climber and learned that he had found my helmet and brought it down the mountain. He kindly offered to return it, but at that point I had chalked it up as lost for good and had replaced it. I told him he could keep it or pass it on to someone else who could use it.
  10. Booty discussion

    One person's bolt ladder is another person's free climbing project: NOT BOOTY. Bolt ladder leading up to the Kompressor on Fitz Roy: BOOTY.
  11. Beacon

    Beowulf said, "Let whoever can win glory before death."
  12. Beacon

    I feel like we are watching Groundhog Day for Beowulf, who sets out each day to slay the dragon, returns in drunken triumph each night, and in a curious and cruel twist, each morning wakes to learn that the dreaded dragon yet lives, and the epic battle must be fought all over again. The cycle must repeat until our hero finally learns that the dragon is not his true nemesis, the battle is not the real battle, and victory, it seems, is simply the act of getting out of bed each day, drawing in a lungful of clean air, and yet feeling the beating of his heart, a metronome in flesh and bone, counting the seconds to his eventual death.
  13. The reporting on the report was a non-report. ZZZZzzzzzzzzzz.
  14. [TR] Summit Chief - Standard 09/21/2019

    Yep. It tastes like..................................wait for it..............................chicken. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laetiporus
  15. [TR] Summit Chief - Standard 09/21/2019

    Nice. Did you bring that chicken home and cook it up? Looks perfect.
  16. Gorgeous photos! Thanks for sharing. As beautiful as they are, your shots of the bare ice of our receding glaciers is disturbing.
  17. Whatcom Peak? Easy Peak

    Well, there won't be any seasonal snow left, for better or worse. If temps drop low enough there may be fresh snow on the peaks. The river crossing should be easy. The Imperfect Impasse should be fine IF it's dry. I can't comment on Whatcom because the only time I was there it was covered in snow. Should be a lovely time to be out there if you can find a break between storms.
  18. It's climbing related

    Sounds pretty boring.
  19. Cable Car haters

    You can bet the insurance company is investigating.
  20. Summit Mount Rainier 2020

    Moved to the partners forum because, well, you are looking for partners.
  21. Ptarmigan traverse 2020

    Moved to the partners forum because, well, you're looking for a partner.
  22. Wow! A great TR. Your story adds a really nice human dimension to the fantastic visuals, which we all have come to expect from you. So no more pics-and-done TRs, @JasonG, you've set a new standard for yourself! Thanks for putting in the time and effort. I miss the Pickets. Must get back. Will get back. But the depth of suffering and density of objective hazards give pause. Only true masochists and seasoned alpinists need apply.
  23. Summit Mount Rainier 2020

    If you want to find partners and go with them, you'll want to build up a lot of experience along the path. Do some reading, take a course, get out on snow and ice where you are and start learning. You can practice crevasse rescue techniques without being on a mountain with actual crevasses. You could find some equally passionate people willing to spend time w you to learn and practice the skills you all will need. In that scenario, Rainier will be a later objective in a long progression that may take several seasons. Or you could hire a guide and skip a lot of that progression ramp and get instruction, practice, safety, and a lot of friendly service at the same time.
  24. The entire world is coming to Index on Sept 7th for the climbing festival (not me, I have a wedding to attend). If you're around consider putting stuff out that weekend as well.