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Everything posted by kukuzka1

  1. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

  2. Yeah I seen that ice line above the N face bowl too, well worth a look for future parties. Index in winter... what's not to like?
  3. Puts you and Colin's car to car sub 24 hour winter traverse in perspective although you did use aid.. Colin
  4. Not exactly a hardman or in the 80's or in a assisted care facility yet but almost! good job finishing the crux pitch, I had twice tried to lead it and had to leave it, although I did top rope it. It's definitely some spicy climbing. I'm surprised you didn't see any of my gear I left(probably buried) although I liked the name I gave it a little better sorry about the huge photos, not sure what happened.
  5. Don't give the rape bolters any ideas
  6. [TR] Mount Baring - Standard 12/05/2020

    The second photo is a great photo of the Index peaks, don't get that view photographed much.
  7. Stuart West Ridge - more beta than you can use No kidding, you should of just told people where to put their hands and foot holds
  8. That sexy photo of Goode shows the Beckey route(NE face?) It looks like it had a major rock collapse above the ice part, unless that's normal for how it looks in early Oct? looks kind of snarly, or the route could be a little left of that.
  9. I loved this route, even if it was done in a major summer storm and we were benighted. Felt more like 5.9 to me although like with any route such as this many little variations are possible. Someone needs to snatch the FWA. Be a nice prize
  10. [TR] Chimney Rock - East Face (U-Gap) 08/24/2020

    Really? what routes dose Mr Smoot have for Buckner and Sherpa?
  11. [TR] Chimney Rock - East Face (U-Gap) 08/24/2020

    Looks like Smoot's to blame. People love lists did not read earlier comments so nevermind
  12. Well at 5.11a/b maybe so but it would be 5.10 A1 if I tried it. hell these days probably 5.8 A1
  13. [TR] Forbidden - E Ridge Direct 08/26/2020

    I believe in early season it's because of icy places and snow covering some of the rap stations. Always thought of trying it in winter but never tried it. yet...
  14. So you guys climbed left of the lower north ridge start?
  15. "We left the parking lot at 8:00 AM, and got back at around 2:00PM the next day." WOW! espic
  16. [TR] Johannesburg - 1957 NE Rib 08/01/2020

    Well Kinda do because the I-VI grades are supposed to take into account the overall seriousness of a route, but a grade solely for seriousness is true
  17. I do not know exactly where their route goes but I am guessing this is the aprox line as he mentions in the post when they emerged onto the north ridge they were surprised they missed the access gully to the upper north ridge and they were close to the gendarme. I think I have seen photo with some steep good ice in the lower ridge. PHOTO CREDIT ED COOPER Also at the base of the gendarme they finished on the NE face
  18. [TR] Johannesburg - 1957 NE Rib 08/01/2020

    Is an old school III+/IV and new school IV+ It's hard to give any climb in the lower 48's a grade of V with the hardest moves being 5.7 and mostly 4th class. Maybe in Canada or Alaska but....
  19. http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990#page/80 Here is a link to the story, was actually in December not February and the route is called Surrogate Panama http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990
  20. [TR] Johannesburg - 1957 NE Rib 08/01/2020

    I have not been up there in a long time but at that time it (July 92) was cruiser up and we went down that way and there was a little rockfall, definitely not a place to linger, I believe we were un-roped. I'll check for some photos. Only a summit photo found.
  21. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress 08/01/2020

    I know the right most routes get pretty bad reviews but the 1963 route had good rock/pro and a few really nice 5.7ish pitches right before you hit the perm-snow up high. we did it c2c in about 14 hrs
  22. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress 08/01/2020

    Do the 1963 NE ridge/rib and avoid all the bush! its a great route