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Everything posted by JasonG

  1. Boots

    Do not buy either of these for 3 season use in the Cascades unless you are a guide on the volcanoes!! So much of Cascadian summer climbing is hiking and these will destroy your feet.
  2. I think you can maybe guess why many of the climbs aren't named. And when they do form, they often fall down just as fast. This is an impressive TR, you guys really nailed it. Almost as impressive as that tipi!
  3. Boots

    If the Charmoz is too big I'd check out this (I just bought a pair recently): https://www.sportiva.com/trango-tower-gtx.html I think they are a great (maybe not perfect) Cascadian 3 season boot- I've been climbing in some variation of them for the past 20 years (tried Kaylands at one point and went back to LS). I get about 3-5 seasons of decent use out of them, though I did wear a pair out in one year when I spent the winter climbing in New Zealand and the summer climbing hard in the Cascades (before kids, ha!). The most important thing is fit! If they don't fit, it doesn't matter the features. Find the boot company whose last best fits your foot. You can likely stick with them for life. I used to think all leather was the way, but I'm sold on synthetic at this point- they dry quicker. The durability isn't as good in my experience, but the weight savings is worth it. Good luck! I started my climbing career in a club course and met lots of great people.....
  4. Bellingham partner

    Let's do it!
  5. I always think this when I'm wallowing waist deep in the hills.
  6. idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots

    I'd forgotten about the Voile option...... and I've approached with plastic mountaineering boots with those exact bindings (I have a splitboard)! Still, unless you are climbing really hard stuff I think AT boots are better in all respects.
  7. idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots

    Couldn't you just leave the heels free when descending on some 404s to give you that tele feel? (edit: Just saw that @montypiton said the same thing!) It isn't likely that anyone is going to produce a binding like what you are thinking of, given how well modern AT boots climb.
  8. Did you have to pound the pickets or axe to drive them (and they didn't pop through a crust and sink easily)? I think the consensus is that unless the answer is yes, they won't hold a fall. Also, top clip or mid-clip? Mid-clip is typically much stronger. Wondering if you concur based on your incident... Here is some technical reading on snow anchor strength if you haven't seen it: snow anchors Most importantly, I'm glad you're taking some time to figure out how to improve your systems (and posting here so that others can learn as well). It isn't often that we get second chances in the hills and I'm glad you've learned a few things without the pain/loss that often accompanies the education.
  9. Not unless you want to know how fun (not very) it is to approach the base of Colonial with skis on your back. We didn't really do anything besides look at some cool icicles. Very few turns, lots of post holing and deadfall.
  10. ummmmmmm....wow. For a near miss of total team death, you seem remarkably sanguine. And yes, curious as to how the pickets and axe were placed.... Well done at finishing it, and thanks for posting all the gory details. This has been on my list, but your TR gives me pause.
  11. And 20 will stay closed at the CG until they start clearing the highway, per WSDOT's Jeff Adamson. If you are unhappy with this decision he said to contact the Sedro Woolley Maintenance Facility (who did the cost/benefit analysis that resulted in this year's Colonial CG closure). It won't do any good this year to complain Jeff said, but it might factor in for next year's planning. Emphasis on might. Basically, I think, it was a polite way of telling me to buzz off.
  12. Beginner Rope System

    @bedellympian you raise some good points! Youth and motivation can overcome nearly anything. You may not want to listen to us old dudes @Michael Morningstar
  13. One of my all time favorite reports @Marcus Russi! The Cascades can deliver beat downs like few other ranges.
  14. Gibralter ledges ski partner wanted

    Where's the tauntaun emoji when you need it? This is a proven technique in the cold alpine: In seriousness though, Gib ledges is a fantastic winter route. Good luck!
  15. That timeline makes me feel tired, old and fat. But I had to laugh @Priti. That is motivated!
  16. Here you go @aikidjoe
  17. Beginner Rope System

    This is a good question and one without an easy answer because, well, it depends. Personally, I have two main ropes for the alpine- an 8.7mm 60m dry that is rated as a single, double and twin. It is great to have the lightest single rope for those long alpine approaches, and you really aren't going to fall anyways, right? I bring this rope for anything harder than mid-fifth where there will be lat least several full, harder pitches. Think full NR of Stuart. My other rope is a 7.8mm 60m dry rope rated as a double or twin. This is my main rope for rambly routes that have a lot of 4th and low 5th with a glacier approach. I often climb with it doubled, but sometimes stretch it out full length. I guess I do have a third rope for the alpine. A ratty 40m 7.7mm that I cut down to be a glacier/ski mountaineering rope. Then I have some fat cragging ropes.... So, I think you are on to the right track!
  18. Road gated at Colonial Creek CG as of a few days ago....contrary to their website. Grrrrrr.
  19. Thanks for the update!
  20. Beyond impressive, even with a perfect weather window! Those mountains down there are the real deal in every respect. Fierce!
  21. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    Ohhhhhh, right! I had forgotten about this. My wife had her Swallow turned into a 15F bag via this option. Thanks for sharing that.
  22. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    I've been using a FF Swallow for 20 years and have spent about a year of my life in it. I find that it is a little warm for high summer, but I just drape it over me like a quilt. Perfect for sleeping toasty in the spring and fall. I even use it in winter sometimes, with extra clothes. The Swallow pretty much does it all, and probably the reason it is FF's most popular bag.
  23. I've never found wool to last as long as synthetic. Nor have I found it to wick as well. But it certainly smells better!
  24. These are all great photos, but I'm especially liking the B&Ws by @Off_White! I can't keep all these people and their nicknames straight though.
  25. Der Tigerhorn

    Good idea. Would be fun to see a bunch of unusual tours posted up!