Jump to content

JasonG

Moderators
  • Content count

    3899
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    52

Everything posted by JasonG

  1. And lucky! Can't forget that part. Without it, I wouldn't be typing this. Thanks for the great blast from the past, post some more stories please!!
  2. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!
  3. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    It is looking like I'll have to build that fence I've been putting off for years. I'm running out of slides to digitize..... first world problems for sure in light of what is going on!
  4. Closer, for sure, thanks for the vote of confidence. The new camera really upped the number of keepers, but I need to figure out how to organize it around a theme or how to even approach it, what software to use, etc. Suggestions welcome! Truth is, it is also a bit daunting. But maybe one of these days....
  5. Trip: Teebone Ridge-Traverse - Little Devil, Baksit, Big Devil, Trapezoid Date: 9/11/2016 Trip Report: You'd think that a ridge that is only a few miles from the highway wouldn't feel so wild, but Teebone ridge gives the impression of remoteness. No campsites, no climber's paths, and no human tracks in the snowfields. In these days of permit lines at 7am in Marblemount it is refreshing to see. But you must be prepared pay the price of admission on the exit.... Of course we didn't know about the exit as we were hiking up the Monogram lake trail on a sunny Sunday, chatting with Ranger Erin (the last person we would see) coming down from a patrol. Spirits were understandably high- the southerly approach to Teebone ridge involves basically no bushwhacking. Just walk up the Monogram trail until you can see the lake and hang a left. From there until the last few hours you will be in the alpine..... The Sound of Music and all that. As the sun got low in the sky the first day, we ran around under Little Devil looking for a spot to camp. We found a tilted slab that was passable with a bit of work, set up the 'mid and went up Little Devil as the light got better and better. What a vantage! The clearing sky made for some dramatic views but a chill wind blew, driving us back towards camp and the Hunter relatively quickly. Luckily our whiskey supply was a match for the temperatures, and our dinner was accompanied by a great show of stars. It was good to have the band back together again! The next morning didn't feel like summer at all and we were all a bit chilled, Scott especially so. Kit may have even called him crabby. So we dawdled until the sun hit our camp and didn't get an early start to head over to Baksit. Like Little Devil, Baksit is an easy class 3 romp, but leave packs at the saddle where you drop around the east side of it. Returning to the packs we had a bit of steep snow to get down into the basin between Baksit and Fallen Angel where we easily made our way over to the base of the Angel. We had brought gear to head up the "regular" route put up by Roper et al. on the FA, but about this time Scott began to feel not well, not well at all so we decided to keep the team together and limp north towards Big Devil. Oh well, another day Fallen Angel To get to Big Devil, you first must get past the Hellions which appear to be pretty easy to skirt, at first. However, the last Hellion surprised us a bit- you'll want to stay low. Past the Hellions the way up Big Devil is straightforward....and dramatic. Fantastic views all around, it is one of the most commanding vantages in the Skagit. Highly recommended (you can bypass the summit on the traverse, but you shouldn't). We didn't know where we were going to camp for night 2 but spied the perfect location from the summit of Big Devil- a lake that isn't on the map! We christened it the The Lake of Fire and it was an easy romp down mellow snow from the summit. We got in early enough to kick off the boots and marvel at the surroundings. Plus 4G service, interestingly, better than sitting on my couch at home. One of the reminders that the highways isn't far. The fair weather continued on day 3 and, due to extra Hunter rations, Scott had made a complete recovery from the day prior. We quickly hiked up easy ground to the col between Hunich's Pipe and the Trapezoid. Thankfully we didn't have to carry our kit over the mountain and we left our packs at the col and scrambled up to the summit (very exposed class 3). From here we had a great view of all the peaks we traversed past over the past several days and I could tell that Scott finally felt at Peace after a long summer toiling on the fishing grounds. Now, how to get out of here? The way we came up had a bunch of loose blocks, so we opted to set up two clean raps down the steep rock to the skier's right of the ascent line. This worked out quite well, and I'd recommend it if you brought a rope all the way to this point (because you know you are going to climb Fallen Angel, right?). Soon, we were back at the packs readying for the gentle alpine stroll before the business end of the traverse. The 2015 burn. You can see it's extent from Newhalem and it didn't leave the preferred exit from Teebone ridge unscathed. In fact, I'd hesitate to recommend this exit as there are MANY widowmakers that seem to be held aloft by the hand of the Devil. Thankfully it wasn't windy, but still we were all spooked traveling past large burned out trees swaying gently in the non-existent breeze. A few more winters will probably make it less dangerous (you'll still have to dodge cliffs strewn with fallen timber), but more unpleasant, as the jack-strawed mess gets worse and the brush begins to take over. The problem is that a quick scan of the map and aerials doesn't show convincingly the lesser of the potentially evil ways to exit the traverse. The Devil always gets his due. Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, ice axe, crampons. Rope for Fallen Angel, also was nice for a couple clean raps off the Trapezoid Approach Notes: Monogram Lake trail to the high country. Exit thru the burn, north of the NPS marker on pt.5362. BE CAREFUL IN THE BURN. Numerous widowmakers!!!
  6. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    We've all got low-T now. My wife says that's OK.
  7. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    We've outlawed all forms of fun in WA
  8. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    That is a pretty cool little camera, I hadn't even heard of those before. I guess I would tend to gravitate towards something like a Canon S120 (which I have), G7X, or Sony RX100V and put it on my shoulder strap or gear sling when the going gets too technical for my dSLR in front. But certainly something to keep in mind!
  9. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    Ha! They have zero sympathy for my addiction and are always suspicious when I am around. And totally understandable about the larger pack. It certainly complicates things when they get that big! Hard to compete with the likes of BD for the price/effort.
  10. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Probably go outside. But this is a close second. Certainly better than working!
  11. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    I'm always impressed by your creations @kmfoerster. So cool! Maybe a 50L version for people who carry too much camera gear?
  12. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Why does it matter so much to you? This isn't the AAJ, and a post like yours does nothing except stir the pot.... to what end?
  13. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    Good luck with that. I doubt people will be locked down, legal or not, all summer.
  14. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    EVERYONE IS RIGHT! GROUP HUG......CLIMB ON IN YOUR OWN WAY PEEPS! (after the governor says it's OK)
  15. [TR] Cabinet Mountains - Multiple 03/21/2020

    DAMN!!!! And great images too, are those yours mostly?
  16. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    Doesn't the mountain running community have this dialed? I use a hydration bladder and hose so haven't looked into the options.
  17. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    Very true, thanks for posting that!
  18. current song in your head

    Love these evocative descriptions of listening to these excellent tunes!
  19. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    That makes him perfect the example. Life is messy.....and you often don't die the way everyone expects you to. Most importantly, we are all going to die no matter what we do.
  20. current song in your head

    Great album of collected stuff more than 20 years old at this point. In the mid to late 90's there was little as compelling in the Seattle scene, at least in my small world. I thought one day Issac would combust on stage as the fire burned him from the inside out.
  21. My feelings on the climb as well, and that was before I had kids! Good job not getting the chop, there is plenty of opportunity on that one.
  22. Not a great idea. If this keeps up, the USFS has said that they will block the road below the snowline and ruin it for everyone.
  23. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Although I've never met him, I am pretty sure that @landoclimb isn't doing it because of any encouragement online. The first swing into that rimey swiss cheese will bring that into clear focus. There is a long climbing tradition of the young and the keen soloing where the consequences are clear and unforgiving- much to the vexation of parents everywhere. Doesn't make it right or wrong, it just is. I don't think that is lost on anyone, let alone this young man. And, we've been around this bush with the likes of @Colin, @marc_leclerc and many others over the years. They didn't listen either.
  24. That's pretty funny @Kameron! I actually talked to Tabski on the Eldo trail as you hiked in to slay that dragon last year. I should have introduced myself! We were coming out of the Forbidden tour..... And I might be convinced to check that out with you..... if you don't mind going dad speed.
  25. [TR] Sloan Peak - Superalpine 03/15/2020

    You can come in from Darrington and reach the Bedal road.....It is still gated at Deer Creek, 2 miles or so west of Big 4.
×