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montypiton

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montypiton last won the day on March 3

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About montypiton

  • Rank
    old hand
  • Birthday 11/03/1952

Converted

  • Occupation
    schoolbus driver
  • Location
    central Washington
  1. Kid-friendly top-roping in Leavenworth?

    playground point - a handrul of 5,0 -5-easy climbs that can be led otr toproped., and kid-friendly starting area.. as the name suggests, it was originally developed as a kid-friendly venue...
  2. Looking for people to climb

    My kids are grown, but I have a TON of experience climbing with kids from toddler to teen. I'm grandpa age, and live in Leavenworth. - these days climbing with grandnieces & grandnephews, cuz I haven't been graced with my own grandchildren yet. But if you got a kid who wants to climb, you're welcome to give me a call. long-retired AMGA guide, with decades of experience training guides & mountain rescue personnel. Not much of a "sport-climber" -- much prefer traditional rock-climbing & alpinism. shoot me a private message if you wish. -Haireball
  3. Spring Ice in the PNW

    April to June is the spring alpine ice season in the Stuart Range. Lotsa routes, but only a few get much traffic. Many of the routes that have been climbed remain undocumented (intentionally). There's usually a late fall / early winter alpine ice season as well. These routes are typically mixed, not pure ice, so ya need to be ready for that . The good part is that its usually pretty forgiving mixed climbing, not the "new age" mixed terror.
  4. Ski partners!

    okay Alisse, I'll bite. I've skied all over the western US, old enough to remember $5 all-day unrestricted tram ticket at Jackson Hole Teton Village. ski- approach Denali twice in '80s, and twelve seasons pro patrol at Stevens Pass, Squaw Valley, and Mammoth Mountain. I am infamous among my friends for liking bivouacs, and have skied stuff that some people used to consider "extreme" At age 68, I'm probably not the guy to do a long schwack and 5000' vertical in the same day. But I'm a solid skier with 60 years on skis, and graduate of the old "National Avalanche School" = the grandaddy of all avalanche schools, from which the AIARE protocols were derived. If you don't mind ski-mountaineering with someone old enough to be your dad, give me a shout. -Haireball
  5. Did you summit?

    Rad has a point. The colleagues I know who make the biggest scene about summit-honesty-ethics, etc etc are those who have money at stake. I've played the sponsorship game and its a pain in the ass - gets in the way of the fun I'm tryin' to have. Sponsored climbs have cost me friendships and climbing partners. The summit is merely an excuse to jump on the route. The journey is where the action is. The destination is just the excuse to begin the journey. -Haireball
  6. my trees don't seem to mind. they apparently prefer being climbed to being cut down for firewood... -Haireball
  7. I would be happy to share beta on the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. Mostly, we locals don't bother to document/publicize our routes because we believe other climbers might enjoy the feel of climbing undocumented routes -- the feel of a "first ascent". However, we also recognize that not every climber has the time and resources to get the most out of "adventure climbing". Some folks really do need to know where and what a climb is. So, we're willing to share the wealth. True, some of you will miss out on the "adventure" feature, but many will be happy to know of the many little-known and perfectly accessible venues out there. -Haireball
  8. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Ok, finally conditions have stabilized sufficiently to justify a latest edition of Haireball's Ass-clammin report: After monitoring the Funnel for a week, and snooping around elsewhere in the Icicle, Anthony Lubetski and I pulled the trigger and walked up to Hubba Hubba this morning. It had not been our first choice, but Eightmile Butt-rest has melted out, and the only other ice that looked remotely climbable was the Dog Nasty Dike on Dog Dome, and we were not prepared to bridge the river. so - Hubba Hubba. after a sobering approach over piles of avalanche debris we estimated at thirty feet or more deep, we found the Funnel to be badly sun rotted and shedding bits at a greater pace than we wanted to risk, so we opted for Hubba Hubba left, hoping for two pitches WI-3, M-0. The first WI-2, M-0 pitch was bony but fun (I always enjoy old-school mixed), but the second WI-3 pitch was being continuously scoured by bits of ice and dirt shed from the sun-baked ridge above, so we chickened out and rapped off from the resident anchor. It was a fabulous morning, even with the post-holing in an inconsistent snow cover that could be a leg-breaker for the unwary. lowland ice appears to be disappearing at an unexpectedly fast pace,. When Dr Shipman and I can do a fly-over (nice to have climbing partners who own and fly small airplanes), I'll present what we see in the alpine venues. If we don''t suffer a catastrophically abrupt spring melt, I expect to see a superb spring alpine mixed season in the Stuart range. -Haireball
  9. or you could just run laps up & down tree trunks with your regular tools/poons... -Haireball
  10. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    what Oly said!
  11. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    this is beginning to look like a promising thread. we got a handful of seventyish antique hardcores in the Wenatchee-Leavenworth area who are always lookin' for fresh meat. we move a little slower each year, but still get on the "interesting" routes -- just take longer. should we establish a "geezers'" thread? -Haireball
  12. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Misters Hutchinson & JasonG - thankyou so much for your gracious assistance! we dinosaurs are grateful for any help we can get! escaped from the old-folks-home again today, didn't even have to fire up my texas snowblower (two thirtyish sons wielding full-size steel grain scoops). Most of last week's promising roadside ass in both Tumwater & Assicle canyons is somewhere around tri-cities about now. - the exception being dog-nasty-dike on dog dome, which appears to have survived the chinook. lets hope it lasts until the water level drops sufficiently to bridge the Assicle. Visible debris indicates the Funnel has run big at least once, but it once again looks more like a ski chute than an ass-clam, and the initial vertlcal step is nearly buried. dodging baseball sized "snowflakes" to glass it. Note that Assicle road has not been plowed, although DOT has removed a handful of volkswagen-sized boulders from the roadway. For the time being, you'll need a high-clearance 4wd to negotiate the Bridge Creek parking turnaround. roll on winter!!! -Haireball
  13. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    Ted- check your private messages -Haireball
  14. this winter continues to claim lives in unexpected ways. Wednesday morning volunteers from King County SAR and Chelan County SAR retrieved the body of a snowboarder buried not far from the base area lodges at Stevens Pass Resort. the burial occurred near the bottom of the "Housewives" run, only about 50 feet from the edge of the groomed surface, within a few seconds ride to the loading station of either the Skyline Express or the Hogsback chairlift. The subject had apparently nipped into the trees for some fresh-snow turns, aired a small jump, and failed the landing. Searchers found him hanging upside down from his snowboard in a creek bed, under seven feet of snow. He had lived long enough to unbuckle one boot from his snowboard before expiring, It took fifteen shovelers forty-five minutes to complete the extrication. Over the past month, my ski-partners and I have encountered a frightening number of SOLO skiers and boarders at backcountry venues. One partner I ski with has developed a habit of taking the name and phone number of each soloist we meet, and phoning them at the end of the day. (this partner is a retired ER physician with nearly sixty years of high-standard alpinism under his belt). Every year, I read about needless snow immersion fatalities - and every report reiterates the absolute need to ski/ride with a partner and keep that partner within sight. And as this instance clearly illustrates, it's never overkill to ski/ride with a shovel, even in bounds at a lift-served resort. The mountains are fun, my friends, SERIOUS fun. Stay safe and take care of one another. -Haireball
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