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montypiton

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montypiton last won the day on April 9

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About montypiton

  • Rank
    old hand
  • Birthday 11/03/1952

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    schoolbus driver
  • Location
    central Washington
  1. I'd agree with the above, adding that in 1982 I used an ultralight backpacking tent on Denali -- more critical is how/where you pitch your tent. Whether you go with an ultralight or expedition weight tent, I'd carry shovel and snow-saw (I carry a big folding pruning saw - cheaper and more readily available than an "official snow saw"), and be prepared to construct substantial windbreaks, or even pack up the tent and get under the snow. A consideration that hasn't been mentioned is the typically larger amount of room in a "four-season" or "expedition" tent, but if room is not a factor, and you're comfortable in your hubba-hubba, and are ok with building snow-walls, you should be fine.
  2. Looking for a Mentor

    pm sent
  3. Conditions for complete NR of Stuart

    snow went off quickly this year. should be good to go now. -Haireball
  4. Hood accident lawsuit

    great topic! speaking from the perspective of 40 years (yes, you read correctly - I'm OLD) of mountain rescue work, both professional (USNPS) and volunteer, I'd offer that in my experience, having a helicopter on site within five hours is actually somewhat quicker than the norm. Often the chopper doesn't show till the following day, and that is weather permitting - some days you can't fly a helicopter in the mountains. those unfamiliar with mountaineering may expect response times like you see for highway accidents, but such expectations are utterly unrealistic. When I was avalanched off Colchuck Peak eight years ago, it took nearly twelve hours just to locate a helicopter that could perform the evacuation. I was lucky to have well-qualified responders (four Afganistan vets) on site to keep me alive until the bird arrived. this report also illustrates how even md's and paramedics can miss "sleeper" injuries that can be pretty much invisible, but suddenly go bad in minutes - like the example of cardiac tamponade mentioned above. bleeds in the brain can do the same thing -- no indication until suddenly its too late. A professional ski patrol I worked with back in the eighties once got a call from an e.r. MD asking why we'd sent him a perforated kidney with no warning. We hadn't identified the injury or warned the doc because the woman had shown no symptoms of such abdominal injury (she'd hit a tree). we'd thought we were sending him a spinal injury. She did not die, but it was close. one trouble with this kind of lawsuit is that if the suit is won, it means that money that might be used to buy/maintain helicopters, and train/retain personnel, gets awarded to the successful plaintiff. and even if the suit is unsuccessful, that same money gets used to defend the agencies being sued. seems like a lose/lose proposition to me... I'd also like to hear more comment on whether a ground evacuation might have been attempted. with a number of medics and first responders on site offering to help, why weren't they moving him down towards Timberline? for me, that's a bigger question than the delay of the helicopter... but I wasn't there...
  5. Spring time icy alpine faces

    sent you private message -Haireball
  6. Lots of hikers

    forget the feds. pick an abandoned trail. hike it with a pair of loppers, a pruning saw, and an entrenching tool. convince acquaintances to do the same. poof! free trail.
  7. Any climbing mentors???

    sent you a pm
  8. Your Favorite Spring Steep Snow Climbs?

    perhaps better known as a north side descent route, the Sherpa Glacier couloir on Stuart. east ridge on Ingalls = couple pitches of steep snow to a 5-easy rock finish. to clarify JasonG "whatever that gully is on Argonaut" likely is the northeast couloir - a fine steep snow gully, but be ready for a 5.6 rock finish if you hope to summit Argonaut. -Haireball
  9. easy multi-pitch routes in the Enchantments

    5.4 will limit you . northwest buttress on Stuart goes about 5.0 if you stop at the ridge crest. to continue to the summit, finding a 5.4 line on west ridge of Stuart might be tricky, likely more like 5.6.. north ridge of stuart (50 classic climbs) goes about 5.6 northwest buttress and northeast couloir (possible ice or snow) on Argonaut go about 5.6. cross to the south side of mountaineer pass and the south face of Argonaut may have a line at 5.4. east ridge of Sherpa from mountaineer pass goes about 5.5. northeast face of false summit on Stuart supposedly goes at 5.6. possibly a 5-easy line on northwest face of Colchuck, but that is undocumented as far as I know. all of these routes will have some snow on approach, even in August. I've climbed ice in Argonaut's northeast couloir Labor Day weekend.... all of these would be fairly long days for a family group (unless your family name is Lowe), but none are terribly committing - escape/retreat would be reasonable in most cases. do take fishing gear for Stuart Lake.
  10. Mountaineering Partner

    ok, I'm a soft touch - PM sent -Haireball
  11. Leavenworth, WA Ice Conditions?

    hubba-hubba is in as of yesterday afternoon... -Haireball
  12. Leavenworth, WA Ice Conditions?

    it had begun to refreeze/reform with the cold spell this week, but the initial curtain was still absent today... other lines besides the main Funnel appear snow-covered, but one would have to walk up there to determine whether there's any ice under that snow. doesn't look attractive enough for me to walk up there, but that could change - I''ll let you know when it looks more enticing... -Haireball
  13. I'd concur with Keenwesh with one further consideration: the fit needs to be ROOMY. Even a heavily insulated boot won't keep your feet warm if the fit is tight. For my two Denali seasons 1981 & 82) I wore a double booth that was a full size larger than my summer alpine boots. I also had acquaintances that got away with using Galibier Superguides (the most popular single alpine boot in those days) two sizes oversize, wearing more socks and insulated supergators. Another acquaintance, dealing with a pre-existing condition of previous frostbite, had good experience with electric socks. whatever you decide, test it on shakedown trips as cold as you can find (Icefields, Montana-Wyoming-Colorado) before you head to Denali
  14. Inspiration needed- where to go?

    DPS - well excuse me! - happens to be on my ticklist too... I have a nine-day window coming up 2/17 - 2/25, have numerous options, of which the Stuart Range is one... final decision kinda depends on which partner commits... -Haireball
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