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Lowell_Skoog

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About Lowell_Skoog

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    spray'prentice

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  • Homepage
    www.alpenglow.org
  • Occupation
    Software development consultant
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thanks JasonG and G-spotter for letting me know about these addition routes. I've added them to the NWMJ inbox: Slesse Mtn, Navigator Wall, winter ascent Labour Day Horn, Labour Day Buttress, winter ascent Station D Peak, East Ridge, winter ascent Mt Prophet, SW Rib ("Jacob's Ladder"), new route Station D Peak, NE Face ("Jupiter Shift"), new route South Illusion Peak, Chinese Puzzle Wall, two new routes (2016, 2018) http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html
  2. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 244 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2018. But a previously unreported ski traverse from the Canadian border to near Lake Wenatchee was completed by Peter Dale and Aaron Mainer in April-May 2016. If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  3. I came back to CC.com after months away and found this great story.... Congrats on completing your dream. But yikes about the car! Your story stirred memories of my climb of the same route in 1985 with Mark Bebie. We also climbed the couloir to access the upper buttress and we did Beckey's rappel to avoid the final difficulties. According to my journal, we replaced the original Beckey/Fielding piton with one of mine, then did a couple rappels to broken ledges. Three more pitches led to the summit ridge. I still have the Beckey/Fielding piton (or at least, that's what we assumed it was at the time). Here's a picture of it. It has a diamond C stamped on it (but not really visible here).
  4. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 236 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2017. But a few earlier routes have come to light. These include: 2016, Supercave (aka M&M) Wall, "Golden Age" 2016, Supercave (aka M&M) Wall, "Maple Glazed" If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  5. New forum software!

    Thanks for chasing down a fix for old links, Jon. I am able now to browse to all the old trip reports referenced in the NWMJ new route inbox: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html
  6. best content Help identifying the best content on CC.com

    Too bad the site redesign broke all the old URLs. A lot of FAs were once accessible through the links on this page: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html
  7. Fred Beckey public memorial, Sun 12/3, 1pm at MTRs

    Video presentation from the memorial: http://www.alpenglow.org/people/fred-beckey-devoted-to-mountains/index.html
  8. New forum software!

    Here's a question for the CC.com admins.... Would it be possible to provide some sort of tool to translate old CC.com thread/post URLs to a URL that accesses the same thread/post through the new bulletin board software? You may recall that I've been capturing links to new route information since NWMJ went dormant in 2010. Here's the NWMJ Inbox page again: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html With the change to the CC.com software, all my old links to CC.com trip reports are now invalid. It would be great to have an online tool, or something, to translate old CC.com URLs to the new forum structure. It does appear that all the old threads are still around, but the old links are broken. Is there any way to help with this? Thanks for any help.... --Lowell Skoog
  9. A public celebration of the life of Fred Beckey is scheduled for Sunday, December 3, 2017 at The Mountaineers in Seattle. Doors open at 1pm. Admission is free, but space may be limited. For tickets, visit this site: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/remembering-fred-beckey-a-celebration-of-life-tickets-39879444492
  10. Climbed MHC with a couple friends yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. We were amazed by the friction offered by this unusual rock. The stance at the top of P5 (the money dihedral) felt pretty darn airy with three people there. The intermediate rap anchor on P3 had a loose nut on the left bolt. Lacking any tools, we just finger tightened it. Probably a good idea to carry a small wrench on this climb. The exposure of this climb reminded me of the SW ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites, a route I did many years ago with my wife. MHC was more technical, but not quite as scenic. Thanks Rad and Darin!
  11. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thanks Wayne and Mikey for this information. I've added "Slave to Liberty" to the inbox. Regarding "The Circumvention," I'm less inclined to add this because of the guideline we used for climbing routes in NWMJ. We called it The Beckey Rule. The basic thinking was, "Would Fred include this route in his Cascade Alpine Guide?" If so, we'd run it in NWMJ. If not, we wouldn't. It appears that "The Circumvention" is an ice route that goes partway up Bryant Buttress but isn't a complete route on the peak. Seems like it's not the sort of thing that Fred would put in his books. More like something that would appear in a guidebook specific to winter ice climbs. I'm open to your thoughts on this.
  12. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 204 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Hopefully we'll find a way to publish short reports of these routes in NWMJ when someone has more time to devote to it. For now, the raw list is a handy reference. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2016. But a few earlier routes have come to light. These include: 2006, "Black Widow" (Peak 7440+ east of Spider Mtn), First ascent 2014, Kitling Peak, North Face ski descent If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  13. [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016

    My brother Gordy and I climbed the 1963 NE Face route in August 1983. Took about 12 hours round trip. No brush, but my notes record some steep brittle rock high on the face before we reached the crest of the NE Rib. That part was a bit nervous but most of the climb was not too bad. The C-J couloir was probably in much better shape back then than it is now. We backed down the couloir in a couple hours. I think getting onto the rock during the ascent would probably also be harder now than it was then.
  14. On a trip to Koolaid Lake last July with my wife, I noted the poor condition of the Red Ledge route. It appeared to me (from a distance) that you might be able to descend a few hundred feet below the west shoulder of Arts Knoll (below and west of the Red Ledge) and climb over it from this lower elevation. This was a distant view and I didn't try it, but it looked promising to my eyes. Worth checking out sometime if you're skunked by the Red Ledge route.
  15. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thanks Dan. I went back to my records, and I've already accounted for Ryan Lurie's 2006 descent. You can find it on this page of my ski-history website: http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/chronology/snoqualmie.html The page refers to Ryan's short report in the 2006 NWMJ: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/06/061_Shorts4.html#r4 As you can see, Ryan's descent included a rappel and two down-climbs. After Dan Helmstadter made a continuous ski descent in 2010, I decided to document it as well. You can also find it in my ski-history chronology. I just now added a note to the NWMJ inbox mentioning the continuous nature of Helmstadter's descent. Hopefully that will clarify things a bit. One thing to keep in mind is that the NWMJ inbox contains only routes that I've learned about since the NWMJ ceased publication. It appears that the 2010 ski descent of Argonaut occurred just after we stopped compiling new reports for NWMJ #7, which was the last one published.
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