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montypiton

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Everything posted by montypiton

  1. Kid-friendly top-roping in Leavenworth?

    playground point - a handrul of 5,0 -5-easy climbs that can be led otr toproped., and kid-friendly starting area.. as the name suggests, it was originally developed as a kid-friendly venue...
  2. Looking for people to climb

    My kids are grown, but I have a TON of experience climbing with kids from toddler to teen. I'm grandpa age, and live in Leavenworth. - these days climbing with grandnieces & grandnephews, cuz I haven't been graced with my own grandchildren yet. But if you got a kid who wants to climb, you're welcome to give me a call. long-retired AMGA guide, with decades of experience training guides & mountain rescue personnel. Not much of a "sport-climber" -- much prefer traditional rock-climbing & alpinism. shoot me a private message if you wish. -Haireball
  3. Spring Ice in the PNW

    April to June is the spring alpine ice season in the Stuart Range. Lotsa routes, but only a few get much traffic. Many of the routes that have been climbed remain undocumented (intentionally). There's usually a late fall / early winter alpine ice season as well. These routes are typically mixed, not pure ice, so ya need to be ready for that . The good part is that its usually pretty forgiving mixed climbing, not the "new age" mixed terror.
  4. Ski partners!

    okay Alisse, I'll bite. I've skied all over the western US, old enough to remember $5 all-day unrestricted tram ticket at Jackson Hole Teton Village. ski- approach Denali twice in '80s, and twelve seasons pro patrol at Stevens Pass, Squaw Valley, and Mammoth Mountain. I am infamous among my friends for liking bivouacs, and have skied stuff that some people used to consider "extreme" At age 68, I'm probably not the guy to do a long schwack and 5000' vertical in the same day. But I'm a solid skier with 60 years on skis, and graduate of the old "National Avalanche School" = the grandaddy of all avalanche schools, from which the AIARE protocols were derived. If you don't mind ski-mountaineering with someone old enough to be your dad, give me a shout. -Haireball
  5. Did you summit?

    Rad has a point. The colleagues I know who make the biggest scene about summit-honesty-ethics, etc etc are those who have money at stake. I've played the sponsorship game and its a pain in the ass - gets in the way of the fun I'm tryin' to have. Sponsored climbs have cost me friendships and climbing partners. The summit is merely an excuse to jump on the route. The journey is where the action is. The destination is just the excuse to begin the journey. -Haireball
  6. my trees don't seem to mind. they apparently prefer being climbed to being cut down for firewood... -Haireball
  7. I would be happy to share beta on the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. Mostly, we locals don't bother to document/publicize our routes because we believe other climbers might enjoy the feel of climbing undocumented routes -- the feel of a "first ascent". However, we also recognize that not every climber has the time and resources to get the most out of "adventure climbing". Some folks really do need to know where and what a climb is. So, we're willing to share the wealth. True, some of you will miss out on the "adventure" feature, but many will be happy to know of the many little-known and perfectly accessible venues out there. -Haireball
  8. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Ok, finally conditions have stabilized sufficiently to justify a latest edition of Haireball's Ass-clammin report: After monitoring the Funnel for a week, and snooping around elsewhere in the Icicle, Anthony Lubetski and I pulled the trigger and walked up to Hubba Hubba this morning. It had not been our first choice, but Eightmile Butt-rest has melted out, and the only other ice that looked remotely climbable was the Dog Nasty Dike on Dog Dome, and we were not prepared to bridge the river. so - Hubba Hubba. after a sobering approach over piles of avalanche debris we estimated at thirty feet or more deep, we found the Funnel to be badly sun rotted and shedding bits at a greater pace than we wanted to risk, so we opted for Hubba Hubba left, hoping for two pitches WI-3, M-0. The first WI-2, M-0 pitch was bony but fun (I always enjoy old-school mixed), but the second WI-3 pitch was being continuously scoured by bits of ice and dirt shed from the sun-baked ridge above, so we chickened out and rapped off from the resident anchor. It was a fabulous morning, even with the post-holing in an inconsistent snow cover that could be a leg-breaker for the unwary. lowland ice appears to be disappearing at an unexpectedly fast pace,. When Dr Shipman and I can do a fly-over (nice to have climbing partners who own and fly small airplanes), I'll present what we see in the alpine venues. If we don''t suffer a catastrophically abrupt spring melt, I expect to see a superb spring alpine mixed season in the Stuart range. -Haireball
  9. or you could just run laps up & down tree trunks with your regular tools/poons... -Haireball
  10. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    what Oly said!
  11. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    this is beginning to look like a promising thread. we got a handful of seventyish antique hardcores in the Wenatchee-Leavenworth area who are always lookin' for fresh meat. we move a little slower each year, but still get on the "interesting" routes -- just take longer. should we establish a "geezers'" thread? -Haireball
  12. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Misters Hutchinson & JasonG - thankyou so much for your gracious assistance! we dinosaurs are grateful for any help we can get! escaped from the old-folks-home again today, didn't even have to fire up my texas snowblower (two thirtyish sons wielding full-size steel grain scoops). Most of last week's promising roadside ass in both Tumwater & Assicle canyons is somewhere around tri-cities about now. - the exception being dog-nasty-dike on dog dome, which appears to have survived the chinook. lets hope it lasts until the water level drops sufficiently to bridge the Assicle. Visible debris indicates the Funnel has run big at least once, but it once again looks more like a ski chute than an ass-clam, and the initial vertlcal step is nearly buried. dodging baseball sized "snowflakes" to glass it. Note that Assicle road has not been plowed, although DOT has removed a handful of volkswagen-sized boulders from the roadway. For the time being, you'll need a high-clearance 4wd to negotiate the Bridge Creek parking turnaround. roll on winter!!! -Haireball
  13. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    Ted- check your private messages -Haireball
  14. this winter continues to claim lives in unexpected ways. Wednesday morning volunteers from King County SAR and Chelan County SAR retrieved the body of a snowboarder buried not far from the base area lodges at Stevens Pass Resort. the burial occurred near the bottom of the "Housewives" run, only about 50 feet from the edge of the groomed surface, within a few seconds ride to the loading station of either the Skyline Express or the Hogsback chairlift. The subject had apparently nipped into the trees for some fresh-snow turns, aired a small jump, and failed the landing. Searchers found him hanging upside down from his snowboard in a creek bed, under seven feet of snow. He had lived long enough to unbuckle one boot from his snowboard before expiring, It took fifteen shovelers forty-five minutes to complete the extrication. Over the past month, my ski-partners and I have encountered a frightening number of SOLO skiers and boarders at backcountry venues. One partner I ski with has developed a habit of taking the name and phone number of each soloist we meet, and phoning them at the end of the day. (this partner is a retired ER physician with nearly sixty years of high-standard alpinism under his belt). Every year, I read about needless snow immersion fatalities - and every report reiterates the absolute need to ski/ride with a partner and keep that partner within sight. And as this instance clearly illustrates, it's never overkill to ski/ride with a shovel, even in bounds at a lift-served resort. The mountains are fun, my friends, SERIOUS fun. Stay safe and take care of one another. -Haireball
  15. [TR] Skookum Falls - Far Right Side 02/15/2021

    watch out for the Fun Police!! -- sounds like you guys had waaayyyy too much fun...
  16. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Haireball ass-clammin update: drove up highway 2 today now that its open again. surprises: Drury now has a complete line, although at 37' farenheit, I remain suspicious. The Pencil looks to be complete!?!? - but again, I'm suspicious; could be vertical slurpee, Comic Book Hero looks to be coming along, but still unconnected. You younger mixed studmuffins might feel less intimidated than I. The Drip is not yet close to touching down. Didn't get a look up the Assicle today, got interrupted by a mountain rescue mission at Stevens Pass. Condolences to the family - the mission was a body retrieval... Stay tuned, I'll take a look at the Funnel tomorrow. -Haireball
  17. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    I guess I gave up on this season too early!?!? Noodling around the Assicle canyon today, found enough to finally initiate Haireball's ass-clammin' coverage, so here it is, before my boots are even dry - apologize for lack of photos; I'm a digital dinosaur... Hubba-hubba: choked with four days worth of snow, the Funnel looks skiable!?!? It was raining as I was glassing it, so I'd expect it to run BIG sometime this week Eightmile Buttress - left edge flow is in. this is a safer alternative to Hubba-hubba -- no hangfire above it. two pitches of WI3. Park at Eightmile campground, walk up the road a couple hundred yards, and follow my slowshoe tracks to where you can plainly see the flow Assicle Buttrest: no ass but lotsa avalanche debris - enough to warrant some plow work Dog Dome: the Dog Nasty Dike chimney is in - this is a great clam because it's a bolt-protected summer clam, so if you're fortunate enough to find the bolts, you're one happy camper. After losing an extension ladder to a high-water event several years back, I no longer establish a ladder bridge there. I don't want to be the guy responsible for someone attempting to cross a damaged, ready-to-fail construction. If someone wishes to re-establish the bridge, there is a bolt (placed by yours truly about 15 years ago) on the mid-river boulder upon which your two extension ladder sections will sit, so that those ends can be anchored, and not just slammed into the snow hoping... without the bridge, most will consider the Dog Dome ass unacceptably inaccessible Rainbow Gully: at last! I really was afraid that it was too late for this to come in, but as of today I count at least four clammable lans, and a fifth if you want to try the horror show in the far left corner. It looks doable, but not leadable for me in its current condition. Bring stubbies and rock pro if you hope to protect anything. Assicling: there's a fun little "ass-bouldering" park immediately across the road from the Eightmile campground parking area, and more of the same along the Assicle Buttrest road cut. Get it while its here -- as I said, it was raining when I was out exploring... -Haireball
  18. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Monitoring Hubba-Hubba, the Funnel appears to have fattened to climbable with this last cold spell. Concerned about the avalanche hazard, I carried the old snow-study kit up the hill on Friday, 2/12. Wasted effort - not enough snow cover on approach to dig a pit. A visible trough in the feeder gully suggests it had run at least once, but no way to tell what may be left up there, so if you decide to risk it, maybe go for Hubba-Hubba left, the least exposed line. Hubba-Hubba right also looks climbable, but it's more exposed to the Funnel's avalanche hazard. From below the Funnel, I could see enough ice across the canyon on the Rat Ketchup line that it looks an attractive alternative. Heading up Sunday, and will report on which of the two venues we elect to climb. With the new snow, Rat Ketchup is looking more likely. Stay tuned. s
  19. idea MYOG - Gear mod's and personal creations.

    no photos, but not likely needed -- I sew gear loops on the shoulder straps of every pack I own. besides the usual climbing gear that rides there on alpine routes, they're a handy place to keep small items like camera or gps ... I've been known to hang bags of snacks there so I can eat on the move, and in ancient times before the age of hydration bladders, I used to hang a small water bottle there as well.
  20. Moderate ice climbing, chair peak etc

    I like the climbing around Cody better than Bozeman. And I am up and available for moderate alpine & waterfall ice locally. I live in leavenworth, and post my infamous "ass-clammin" report when there's anything to report -- which there is not this year. Even the Funnel is no more than a wet streak, and my last hike to Colchuck (three weeks ago) was pretty discouraging... but if anything does become climbable, you'll hear abouyt it. caveat: except the next two weeks - I'll be in Hawaii for a family reunion... If anything should happen to actually freeze while I'm gone, have at it!! -Haireball
  21. Northern Cascades and Canadian Rockies

    pm sent. I'll check MP...
  22. Boot Recommendations for Shuksan

    I'll go out on a limb here and offer a couple of "creative" solutions I've used to resolve the dilemma of determining an optimum summer alpine boot. In the 1980s, my favorite summer alpine boot was (wait for it...) the iconic Royal Robbins big wall rock-climbing shoe that had dominated the u.s. rock-shoe market in the early '70s. Mine were light, stiff, well-stretched out from years of use, and I used them until the uppers wore through -- yes, I did wear strap-on crampons on them. My only real complaint is that they were split-grain leather rather than full-grain, so no amount of sno-seal could make them water-resistant. I liked their climbing/walking performance well enough that I was willing to accept the occasional soggy-feet hassle. I like light - so my current favorites run more to the heavy end of the approach shoe category than the light mountain-boot option. its amazing how much ice-climbing you can do with crampons on running shoes if you take the time to learn the old French flat-foot crampon technique. And many of the current approach shoe offerings are soled with rubber sticky enough that they climb as well or better than what old-farts like me used to consider state-of-the-art rock shoes. modern rock-shoes are likely overkill unless your objective is 5.9 or harder... same with real alpine boots -- likely overkill unless you'll be on ice approaching vertical... a bit of research may yield some surprises, too. brands like Lowa and Hanwag are not so widely known/available in the US as Sportiva or Scarpa, but a couple of summers ago, one long-time partner of mine was climbing in a high-top approach shoe by Hanwag that, light as it was, had toe & heel welts to accept clip-on crampons! (gotta admit to lusting over those babes!!) so--- sorry if I've muddied the waters here, but, hey! you asked!
  23. [TR] hubba-hubba hill - the funnel 03/15/2019

    we saw you guys on Thursday - we were doing an "old farts' training walk on the approach. glad you had a good climb. seeing how stable it looked on Thursday with you guys on it was what prompted us to go for it Friday...
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