KaiLarson

Did you go? I'm looking at Fisher Chimneys mid July. Wondering what I'm likely to find on the approach and the climb.

I'm looking at a climb of Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys) in a couple of weeks. Decided to check on the weather to get a feel for what conditions might be like. The Mountain Weather page puts the overnight low on Shuksan's summit at 48 degrees tonight, with an overnight low on Friday of 70 degrees. https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shuksan/forecasts/2782 Is this for real? Are these temperatures freakishly high or do I just have unrealistic ideas about normal summer temps in the Cascades? (I've only done a few climbs in the Cascades, so I don't have a large experience pool to compare with.) If it's really this hot, what's the heat going to do to climbing conditions? (I always get nervous about crossing snow covered glaciers in warm temps.)

Some friends and I are in need of a shuttle service/taxi to drive us to a trailhead by Bow Lake. Can anyone recommend a shuttle service that can haul us to the trailhead from the Banff/Canmore area? Thanks

Actually, somebody does just that: http://www.alpineluddites.com/

Karrimor Alpiniste [img:left]http://www.larsonweb.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/hastonalpinist.jpg[/img]

Toyota Tacoma (or similar 4wd pickup) with a 4-Wheel Camper pop-top. Will go more places, and get better gas mileage than an SUV/Trailer combination. http://www.fourwh.com/

Doesn't match his description of the difficult access etc. I'm guessing the poster was just a troll with too much time on his hands.

Just got this 40% off coupon: That makes these boots $216 TONIGHT ONLY! Save an EXTRA 40% off, no min, with keycode SFB92414 'til midnight MDT!

I have a different pair of Aku boots. (Spider GTX) They are extremely well made. Fit on my boots was closer to Sportiva than Scarpa, so if you fit well in Sportiva, you should fit into Aku (assuming the last is the same on my boots and the ones you are considering.) With Sierra Trading Post's recent 35% off coupon, I was tempted by these myself, even though I don't need boots.

Not all leather is equal. For example, Pittards leather is treated for greater water resistance. That said, I've found that pretty much every leather glove I've used has become soaked eventually when used in wet and sloppy conditions. That's why I now always carry at least 2 pair of gloves when I'm climbing in such conditions.

Any follow up? (Or is this just a troll?)

Just saw this pack at the Summer OR show. Was impressed. Nothing superfluous, but the design and features on the pack seemed well thought out. Seems like it would be a pretty good large pack for alpine climbing.

What do folks think about cables on your pickets? Do you like them? Not like them? I've always just slung mine with a dynema sling, but am wondering if a cable would be easier and/or more secure. I don't climb a ton of routes where I use pickets, so I'm hoping that folks on this board with more experience can chime in.

+1 for the Stretch Zion. Durable, comfortable. I wear them all the time. As for fit through the thighs, I would not describe them as "relaxed" but they are relaxed enough that they fit me ok. I have really thick thighs, and they are a tad snug, but not uncomfortable or restrictive. (This is true of just about every pair of pants out there, however. If they fit my waist, they tend to be snug on my butt and through the thighs.) Also, these are one of the few climbing pants I've seen that are available in different inseam lengths.

A review here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6411

All weights are for a boot that fits my foot (size 10.5) Scarpa Omega boots with stock liners 78.4 ounces (4 lbs, 14.4 oz) Scarpa Omega boots with intuition liners 73.5 (4 lbs, 9.5 oz) Sportiva Spantik boots 97.7 (6 pounds, 1.7 oz) Scarpa Phantom 6000 boots 82.2 ounces with stock liners and superfeet insoles (5 pounds, 2.2 ounces) 82 ounces with Palau foam liners

I'm currently in SLC, but things may change at some point. Thanks for the replies everyone. I've had mixed results with outdoor groups. When I lived in Colorado, I really enjoyed the Colorado Mountain Club's backcountry ski outings. Some winters, I averaged more than one outing a week with them. Met a lot of really cool people and had some great times. Here in Utah, I've had less success with the Wasatch Mountain Club. It's been easier just to do things with people outside the group.

What are your experiences with The Mountaineers? For a person who is new to the area, is it worth it to join up? I browsed through the club trips and other offerings and some of them looked interesting. Wondering if joining would be a good way to meet folks to climb with and if their various training programs are worthwhile.

How often do big slides like this come down Lib Ridge, I wonder. Any locals have a feel for whether or not this is a portent of things to come? Wondering if the route is becoming less safe as conditions change over the years. I know that there are some routes on other mountains that used to be relatively safe 20 years ago, but have become very dangerous now due to changing glaciation patterns. Is Liberty Ridge changing to become less stable and less safe?

Looking at these made me cry.

All of this information about Everest should make it clear that they are doing it wrong. The Nepalese government should just build a cable car to the top, along with a rotating restaurant/hotel/casino on the summit. There could be an escalator option for those who want to "climb" the mountain. A day spa with an oxygen bar would also likely be popular. For an additional fee, you could be awarded a trophy for a "first ascent" within your particular category: (i.e. first ascent by a transgendered paraplegic over the age of 40; first ascent by an investment banker who played lacrosse in high school; first ascent by a female Prius driver who votes Republican, etc.) If climbing Everest has just become a money driven activity, divorced from its climbing roots, this really is the next logical step. Much safer and more lucrative for the native people, and the clients would be happier too.

My son isn't a complete novice. He's done a number of alpine rock routes with me, including some where we spent the better part of the climb moving quickly on relatively easy but very exposed terrain, where a fall would be very serious. He can keep his cool in the face of big exposure and is comfortable moving over easy ground with minimal protection. He's a competent water ice climber, and has done some alpine snow and ice climbs with me in Colorado in RMNP. That said, the Cascades are quite a bit different than anything found in Colorado or Utah, so we're going to take it easy and start slow. I appreciate all of the suggestions. My plan is to do Fisher Chimneys first, weather permitting, and then pick our next objective based on how things go on that route. I'm glad to have all of the input, as it will give me an array of climbs to choose from.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess it's been a low snow year in the Cascades then? I will check back as our trip gets closer to see if anyone has conditions updates.

This summer, (June or early July) I'm taking my son to the Cascades to climb for 10 days or so. He's not been on any glaciers, and his alpine climbing has been limited to rock. I'm looking to introduce him to snowy alpine climbing on some moderate routes. I think we're going to start with Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan. Seems like a nice mix of rock, ice, and snow on a pretty mountain at a moderate grade. I'm considering Stuart's West Ridge and Buckner's North Face. What suggestions does the collective have for some aesthetic, moderate routes. (I've read the Selected Climbs in the Cascades books, but was looking for some personal recommendations.)

Typically, for summer alpine I've brought softshell pants that I wear 95% of the time, and I keep a pair of lightweight shell pants (typically Marmot Precips) in my pack for fending off heavy rain if necessary. I typically don't climb in the rain, but I've occasionally found myself in protracted rain, especially on approaches and descents. Given the new breed of highly weather proof soft shells (Patagonia knifeblade, Rab Stretch neo) I'm wondering if I could get away with just the softshell and leave the Precip pants behind. Thinking that the knifeblade pants might be a great all-in-one replacement. What is the wisdom of the Cascadian collective?