Rad Posted March 8, 2010 Posted March 8, 2010 Very impressive, nicely written, and beautiful photos! Quote
Rad Posted March 8, 2010 Posted March 8, 2010 We'd love to have this in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal this year in one form or another. One of us will contact you about that. Rad Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 8, 2010 Author Posted March 8, 2010 @Darin.. there are probably other higher unclimbed points out there (possibly a sub-summit of 7FJ, or one of Jack's false summits), but this one has got to be the toughest. I'm not sure of the prominence on Assassin Spire, but I believe the map to be in error as it only lists 160' of prominence for Assassin Spire. I believe there to be over 300' of prominence, but we'll probably never know for sure. @Steve.. very cool! We were equally surprised to see you I'm sure. @JoshK.. surprisingly we didn't see or hear that hanging glacier drop a single thing the entire time we were in there (even at camp). You wouldn't see me climbing that thing though, especially at WI6.. @Rad.. I'd be glad to contribute this to the NWMJ. Quote
genepires Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 still bad ass after a second viewing! how do you find these plums? Quote
Chad_A Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 What a great TR! Thanks for posting this up. Revives my lust for seeking out this kind of thing. Glad you had a good time, and great pictures. Quote
wayne Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Uhh. who wants to get the FA on this beast. Also, congrats on an truly amazing climb! My girlfriend directly forbid me to Come and get it Canadians!! Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 9, 2010 Author Posted March 9, 2010 If anyone is considering climbing the hanging glacier itself, it is overhanging by at least 10 degrees (more like 20). Go get it! @Gene.. a combination of dreaming, Scurlock Photos, and a few hops. Quote
Alpinsanity Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Wow...this really puts my own climbing into perspective, and drops the ego a notch as well. Makes me want to push it a little harder. Super impressive. Nicely done! Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Wow...this really puts my own climbing into perspective, and drops the ego a notch as well. Makes me want to push it a little harder. Super impressive. Nicely done! Exactly! Quote
cbcbd Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Wow, just wow. You guys picked a real good one. Real awesome job. Way jealous over here Quote
Layback Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Impressive piece of pioneering and style guys. I am way psyched for you Tom. I'd be curious to know the last time the Cascades saw a FA of an unclimbed peak. I'm sure it's been some time. Does anyone know? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Lemolo Mox Last Year??? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=836613 Quote
John_Scurlock Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 Here's a wider 'perspective' shot from last November 12, rendered out in monochrome, gives the lay of the land a little better: http://www.pbase.com/image/122620713 click 'original' below the image to see the largest uploaded size. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted March 9, 2010 Posted March 9, 2010 That is an awesome shot John, and it certainly does as you say give a better lay of the land. Fantastic! Quote
Trent Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 (edited) If anyone is considering climbing the hanging glacier itself, it is overhanging by at least 10 degrees (more like 20). Go get it! Tom: When we were up there, we climbed the gulley to the left of the hanging glacier (Scott and crew made it up to the notch between Assassin and Lincoln by this route). About halfway up that gulley, the hanging glacier calved off a huge piece and shook the whole peak. After I cleaned my shorts out, my enthusiasm was somewhat diminished, but Dallas was still gung-ho. Scott had proposed a name for the glacier, but I forget what it was. (Probably something akin to the Deathtrap Glacier) Edited March 10, 2010 by Trent Quote
sepultura Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 Great job guys! I knew it was only a matter of time before somebody knocked this off, of course I was hoping it was going to be me after one attempt in summer with Dallas Kloke and Trent and another last May with A2THK. We figured it would probably only be possible as a winter or early spring climb. Last May we had a look at your gully and wondered if it would go, it looked pretty rotten then. As Trent mentioned, we made it to top of the notch between Lincoln and Assassin, we were calling that glacier the Hidden Dragon due to all the fire it was spitting out both times I was in there. Great pictures and a major Cascades coup, you guys makes us proud. Quote
JasonG Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 Another view of the beast taken a couple of weeks ago on a ski in the area: Scott and Steve tried to convince me that this climb would be a good idea. At least now I won't have to make excuses anymore- Well done gents! Quote
therunningdog Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 Awesome job guys! Way to get after it! Damn, Tom...I leave to go skiing for a week and look what happens...congrats! Funny it's not named Wilkes-Booth Peak, eh? Bravo, good chaps! Quote
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