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Everything posted by Choada_Boy

  1. Solo TR Setups?

    I read Blake's blog post, wondering what systems people are using for solo TR. I started out with double prussiks on two ropes way back in the day, and for a lot of years I've used an Ushba Sport on a single 10.5, but I'm no longer comfortable with the lack of redundancy, especially climbing near my limit. Looking to upgrade...
  2. Gear For Sale! Located in Bellingham, everything listed is clean, bright, and alright! SCARPA Freney XT Boots (43M) Great boot for Ice/Mixed/Alpine. Very precise, very good condition, plenty of miles left on them. 4.3lbs $100 $60!! ($20 S&H) Patagonia Mixmaster Pants (32M) Comfy pants for Alpine pursuits. Good condition, home-made stirrups, no crampon tears, but small repair on outside of lower right leg. $100 $50!! ($10 S&H) Black Diamond Storm Headlamp Mint condition. $30 $20 (Free Shipping!!)
  3. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    Those guns aren't loaded, so I guess it's safe. Climb on!!
  4. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Drew: Where was your first picture taken? It looks like a road or tracks down near the shoreline... Follow Up Question: In your experience, how much of the recent increase (seemingly) in mass wasting do you feel can be directly attributed to climate change?
  5. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Dodged a bullet on that one...on a geologic time scale. We would have been obliterated.
  6. Concerning snow pack

  7. Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)

    Also East Face Couloir of White Chuck. That was a fun one!
  8. Close call for Summitchaser

    Looks like he packed on some pounds since his Alpinist Cover. Sick FA, Bra!!
  9. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    Anyone else been following this? Holy shit!! https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alexander-gukov-rescued-on-latok-1.html
  10. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    I read that they left their rappel devices at the Bone Cairn.
  11. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    Parbat, not parpat.
  12. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night. I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!” Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!
  13. Mt Stuart death

    Sad sad sad. The article had them climbing at 8,9000 feet....
  14. Got this magazine today

    Please get a copy of "Sheep Quest" to Polish Bob. I think his article about "Advanced Technique" is in the current issue.
  15. Waynes Greatest Hits WA Pass Edition

    But enough about Wayne... What do you think of Wayne?
  16. Advice for First Timer to N Cascades

    Todd "Kabob" fell descending the N Slope of N Twin Sister, solo, got impaled by his ice axe, rode his bike out, drove to the Welcome Store on SR542, and collapsed and almost bled to death on the floor in front of the horrified cashier. He didn't really know what had happened to himself (in shock and all). Point with that is that the N Slope descent can be steep and tricky under certain conditions. I think it is six miles in from the gate to the start of the West Rdige.
  17. current song in your head

  18. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

  19. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Super Heroes take risks. Normal people do not. That's what makes Super Heroes Super Heroes and not normal people. "Superman" is not called "Normal Man" for a reason: Normal Man is fucking boring. Everyone is agog at Honnold, for whatever reason, from "He's amazing!" to "He's going to kill himself!". Replace "Alex" with "Superman" and it all makes sense. "Superman! You shouldn't have taken such incredible risks to save Lois!" But he did, and he lived, and he's a hero. Until he dies and then he's dead and everyone can go on and on about how he was taking too many risks and that she wasn't worth it. He does love her, though... Perhaps an innate human tendency to have intense feelings towards risk takers. Not selected for, in the evolutionary sense.
  20. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Turns out: "1%" is scary dangerous
  21. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    It turns out that sitting at a desk is actually pretty risky.
  22. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

  23. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I have to say, I thought at the time that that JBerg ascent was a shitty idea. Still do. Too much objective hazard. Who am I to judge, though? They wanted to go that way and they did. Friends and family get to deal with the grief. I think more and more these days that participants in "Adventure Sports" are self-serving and often selfish thrill seekers, myself included, who rationalize what they do in whatever way makes them feel best, damn anyone else. Die doing something dangerous and the rest of the adherents hold you up as "ballsy" or whatever. No grieving parent wants to hear how ballsy their child was, no grieving partner can heal their broken heart and try to put their life back together knowing how sick your ascents were. I don't buy the "died doing what they loved" BS, either. See above. I'd rather die of a heart attack in my sleep than crushed and broken in terror. I read the Gadd article Bob posted, and I get it. The Reaper stands behind us all, waiting. Should I give him extra reasons to tap me on the shoulder? Not so sure these days, as the beard gets grey. My worthless $0.02.