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DirtyHarry

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Everything posted by DirtyHarry

  1. Wow. The First Barf-up in history in which it won't rain. Amazing.
  2. Wow. Maybe Chris will let you carry his pack to the base of El Cap for him. Don't forget your knee pads though!
  3. Bolting is a privilege, not a right.
  4. bags that won't let water into them if they get wet.
  5. Its a very cool feature that Kearney climbed. Rolf and I climbed something that was probably pretty close to the North Face a couple years ago. I would highly recommend it as an excellent alpine moderate.
  6. I think of that one RE cam that failed, a lot more RE cams held. Ive fallen on that exact same size/make of cam a few times. Im pretty sure metolius and BD cams have failed once or twice in the past too. I've heard of Metolius cams failing, Aliens cams failing, but I've never heard of BD cams failing. Maybe its happened though.
  7. Why? They take back your gear after you wear it out. What's not to love? And REI isn't the only place that sells those BTW.
  8. Eric (Lunger) went climbing three times this summer. Once he went to Index. The other time he did a first ascent on Tilly's Tower. And the third he climbed this. Something to be said for quality over quantity.
  9. Last I saw that souuth side of Adams it was dancing at a techno club in black spandex and a pink fadora. I'd say its pretty god damn gay.
  10. No story. they just established base camp at the moraine, fixed lines, and sieged the motherfucker.
  11. So what's new? Some routes get publicity and media attention and others that are just as worthy, or more so, don't. Who cares? I hope that's not why you climb.
  12. I agree somewhat with some of the stuff Mr. Bushwhacker says. Some lines, like this Tempest Route, climb crack systems where there is not much opportunity for variation and the line is pretty straight forward. Other climbs are more on features where some of the harder pitches may be somewhat contrived - or not. When we climbed the NE Ridge of Mt Alberta, for example (not a FA)one could have probably gone around some of the harder pitches and into a chossy 4th class gully. On Castle Peak, we could have gone into the waterfall salad filled gash and circumvented the crux pitch. Aesthetics dictated a more direct line though.
  13. Why don't you just keep it and consider it payment for cleaning up the most trashed "alpine" route in the Cascades. And meanwhile, some Mountie will have an ever so exciting tale to tell about his epic on the alpine tespiece that is the Beckey Route.
  14. There's also a route called the Joust on Prussik Peak near Der Sportsman put up by the infamous Dan Cappellini that has not yet been completely freed. There's also two or three pretty rad looking cracks in the vicinity of Dragonfly / Dragon's of Eden that have yet to be climbed at all.
  15. Grafitti doesn't come off when it rains. And it doesn't indicate where the handholds are either.
  16. There's be some sick rappels (i.e. first descents) to get there to set up some badass topropes.
  17. There's quite a few cracks in the Colchuck area that are just as rad and are a lot closer that haven't seen a free ascent yet despite esposure on websites such as this one.
  18. I agree with Mark in that topropers should yield to someone who is going to lead a route.
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