Mt Hood

[Asfahl]

Planning a visit to the summit early the morning of the 30th. Looking for beta on snow/ice conditions for the South side routes - anyone been up since the warm temps started last week? Snow conditions on the Old Chute looking consolidated?

If anyone is heading up this weekend, could you please take some pics/notes and post back here? Pints of gratitude for your efforts...

[AlecE]

It's in good shape, likely will be for about 2 months. Was up Sat and Sun. 

[Asfahl]

On 3/26/2019 at 4:10 PM, AlecE said:

It's in good shape, likely will be for about 2 months. Was up Sat and Sun. 

Nice. Thanks for the info. Looks like we'll get a little break in this salty but not severe weather late Friday and early Saturday. We'll see!

[Asfahl]

Not really worthy of a TR as it is climbed so very often, but I went up the Old Chute route on March 30th with a buddy. I figured I should return the beta favor above and put up some pics, with the goal of at least stoking the fire for others. We took advantage of a clearing weather window that opened just before midnight the 29th, was supposed to last around 12 hours, and ended up lasting 2 days. Typical Hood day of leaving the parking lot bivy around 1:45 am, climbing under a sea of stars, 3-10 degrees F until the sun came up, summiting in the morning hours, returning in the early afternoon under sun and 50s-60s. Made a half-dozen new friends breaking trail through the Old Chute... the really fun side of a "social route". Snow conditions were *perfect* for climbing/glissading/sliding/shenanigans, with all of the upper mountain wiped clean by the hash of light storms earlier that week. Plenty of skiers and snowboarders making it look reallllll good on the way down. People appeared on the summit from seemingly every aspect while we hung out on the summit. A+ day.

Some pics:

Climbing under starlight/headlights:

Just before sunrise near Devil's Kitchen:

Sunrise mountain shadow from the Hogsback:

Looking down from our lookout/ski hide-away just under the Old Chute finish:

Summit views to the North:

My buddy Max down-climbing the steepest bit of the Old Chute:

So many routes were re-opened that day! Tracks leading to/from many of the more technical South Side routes:

[jk7]

Trying to take advantage of what looks like a solid weather window saturday and sunday.  Any advice for a first timer on the Hogsback and conditions to expect?  Thanks all!

[Nolan E Arson]

15 hours ago, jk7 said:

Trying to take advantage of what looks like a solid weather window saturday and sunday.  Any advice for a first timer on the Hogsback and conditions to expect?  Thanks all!

Here’s a pic from a sun break on the Palmer webcam today. After the long storm it looks well covered up there.  Probably no open bergshrund concerns. 

With the sun breaks and some more freeze thaw, hopefully the snow will be well consolidated. Sunday’s weather forecast and the lower freezing level look lovely for climbing.

A second tool is recommended for beginners, or for the surprise icy section. Have fun!

Edited April 17, 2019 by Nolan E Arson

[Valisha]

Looking hit Summit on 5/5/2019. Anyone else thinking of summitting?

 

Thanks,

Edited May 1, 2019 by Valisha

[Sam Chaneles]

anyone been up on Mt. Hood recently? need for skis/snowshoes for approach to glacier?

[DominickHarris]

anyone going up this weekend? buddy is busy this weekend and wanted to try and get a summit in.

 

Thanks 

[Bigtree]

Does anyone know if there's lockers a person can rent near/around the Timberline Lodge.  I'm thinking about riding my motorcycle down from Vancouver Island this weekend for a quick blast up the standard route and need a place to safely store my helmet/riding gear.  Thanks.

Edited July 9, 2019 by Bigtree
Corrected typo.

[ScaredSilly]

On 7/9/2019 at 9:28 AM, Bigtree said:

Does anyone know if there's lockers a person can rent near/around the Timberline Lodge.  I'm thinking about riding my motorcycle down from Vancouver Island this weekend for a quick blast up the standard route and need a place to safely store my helmet/riding gear.  Thanks.

Bring a duffle and bag check it at Timberline Lodge.

[mtngeek]

Has anyone been to the north side in the last few weeks? 

[kadyakerbob]

We climbed up the south side and down and around to check out the Elliot Headwall.  The N. Side still looks like it needs one more dusting of snow to hold things together and some colder temps.  

[mtngeek]

On 11/13/2019 at 10:48 PM, kadyakerbob said:

We climbed up the south side and down and around to check out the Elliot Headwall.  The N. Side still looks like it needs one more dusting of snow to hold things together and some colder temps.  

Thanks, you have confirmed my suspicions!

[Artem Vasilyev]

On 11/13/2019 at 10:48 PM, kadyakerbob said:

We climbed up the south side and down and around to check out the Elliot Headwall.  The N. Side still looks like it needs one more dusting of snow to hold things together and some colder temps.  

Was the schrund exposed under the old chute on the South side? If so, how exposed was it - and would you expect a snow bridge over it with the incoming snow? I am planning to use it as a descent from either Cooper Spur or Reid Headwall next week, and wanted to get an idea as to the risk involved (or if I should descend Cooper Spur instead). 

Edited November 20, 2019 by Artem Vasilyev

[diepj]

22 minutes ago, Artem Vasilyev said:

Was the schrund exposed under the old chute on the South side? If so, how exposed was it - and would you expect a snow bridge over it with the incoming snow? I am planning to use it as a descent from either Cooper Spur or Reid Headwall next week, and wanted to get an idea as to the risk involved (or if I should descend Cooper Spur instead). 

I am not aware of a bergschrund  forming beneath the old chute so you shouldn't have issues descending there. One almost surely extends under the Pearly Gates right now and might be easy to cross or end run but I'd avoid a downclimb of that if you haven't looked or don't get a report.

There is likely an open 'schrund at the head of the Reid right now, as well as other open cracks. If you go up the Reid post a TR, I'd love to see what it looks like this early. 

[Artem Vasilyev]

50 minutes ago, diepj said:

I am not aware of a bergschrund  forming beneath the old chute so you shouldn't have issues descending there. One almost surely extends under the Pearly Gates right now and might be easy to cross or end run but I'd avoid a downclimb of that if you haven't looked or don't get a report.

There is likely an open 'schrund at the head of the Reid right now, as well as other open cracks. If you go up the Reid post a TR, I'd love to see what it looks like this early. 

This late season photo is the one that I am referencing - it seems that there is a large schrund underneath the old chute which is typically filled in but could be exposed late season. I was worried about taking a fall into it on the descent if a shallow snow bridge were to form over it

[kadyakerbob]

I don’t have any decent pics from the other weekend but the south side is just as easy as normal to get down.  

[DPS]

The weather has been warm and wet, but I suspect the higher elevations have been getting snow.  Has anybody taken a look at the NF of Hood recently?  Anything to report?

[kadyakerbob]

Anybody been up Lately and have any info on how the N. Face, Elliot, Reid etc are shaping up after this last storm cycle?

[diepj]

No beta on the cool routes but took a romp up the old chute on Saturday.  Conditions were good on the mazama chute (right hand) variation.

Mainly posting to politely ask that people not climb these routes roped up without pro. I thought we were past the age of shenanigans like that but apparently not.

Edited December 30, 2019 by diepj

[jared.c.rogers]

Found someone's phone (large, black case, not Apple) above Crater Rock almost directly below the old Chute.  Was probably only there for one day, so most likely lost on the 4th.  I gave it to the Timberline Lodge front desk for their lost and found.  Hopefully the owner sees this!  Feel free to cross post if there is another forum for this kind of thing.

[Kameron]

Good climbing and skiing conditions on Cooper Spur a week ago today. See this post for photos: https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/mt-hood-east-side

[Dead Man]

does the newton clark crack? never hear about dudes roping up over there, and see the occasional soloists skiing over yonder.. big glacier, no cracks ...?  

[JasonG]

3 hours ago, Dead Man said:

does the newton clark crack?

Uh.....yes.