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Everything posted by ScaredSilly

  1. Nice sleuthing and good conclusion to the snow pack.
  2. Nice, like Jason we had the hill to ourselves. The interesting bit is that though less snow the shrund was crossable. We had more snow but the shrund was wide open. Here is a picture of the summit ridge from July 2014.
  3. Mt Hood

    Bring a duffle and bag check it at Timberline Lodge.
  4. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    I can not remember how high we camped but we were not too far from the toe of the Jeff Park Glacier. Maybe around 7k??? The Mill Creek facing west can be interesting and will have the potential for wet slides.
  5. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    We did a single rappel to the west. Which seems pretty standard as from there one can traverse to Red Saddle via the west side of the summit pinnacle. Regarding a descent. We headed down the Mill Creek Glacier which was wet and sloppy. But then gained the Russell Glacier which we traversed to the Jeff Park Glacier. Not sure it was any better than going via the Whitewater Glacier but we did get a great bum slide in.
  6. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    I think you will find the glacier portion to be okay if the shrund can be crossed. But given the overall snow conditions (poor) the ridge is going to be choss. Getting to the summit will probably be okay but then there is the descent. Which is going to be sloppy.
  7. [TR] Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop 06/21/2019

    Nice, especially taking time to enjoy the view.
  8. Very nice and way to do something different.
  9. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    The numbers are for people attempting the routes ... not necessarily those who were successful.
  10. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/3/19

    I looked at pictures from when we did it the ~1 July 2016 and the conditions look to be about the same. That seemed to be a normal year. So I would say conditions are a month ahead.
  11. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    Did anyone else look at the photos posted by the NPS? It looks to me that they might have hunkered down in a crevasse as there is no sign of them in the photos.
  12. [TR] Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge 06/03/2019

    The ridge is how I like my martinis, dry.
  13. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    ¬°Ay, caramba! I can remember topping out on Ptarmigan in similar conditions. We got our tent set up in one of the flat areas below Liberty Cap and hunkered down for the night. Got up in the morning to continued wicked winds but clear weather. We got the hell up Liberty Cap and down the Emmons. I remember walking into Sherman, with folks thinking we were bad azz hard men when we said we spend the night on top. People had lost tents that night at Sherman. We got something to to drink and eat and then went down the Whintrop and back to Ipsut Creek.
  14. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    One small data point, when we were on Liberty Ridge 30 years ago. We were the first of three parties to arrive at Thumb Rock for the night. That was a Saturday night.
  15. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    I think the recent accident at Thumb Rock and the avalanche in 2014 are more of wrong place wrong time accidents rather due to seasonal / climatic changes. Thumb Rock is conglomerated mud and it is hard to predict when it might crumble. The same for the seracs that avalanched. Being acclimate and fit is still no guarantee ala the accident on Howse Peak this winter.
  16. [TR] Mt. Baker - Coleman Headwall 05/30/2019

    Nice ...
  17. Years ago before the permits and shit show we skied up one March. The ski up was fine, but we walked down cause it was so icy. My friend brought his dog who was having a hard time with the ice as well. Several times she went sliding down.
  18. Rainier- Kautz vs Emmons route

    Yes, I do realize that the OP is a new to glaciers, but walking across the Nisqually and looking up 7k feet is way more impressive and exciting than the Emmons. I distinctly remember that from my first couple of trips to Rainier and even 25 years later it was just as impressive.
  19. Rainier- Kautz vs Emmons route

    I have come down the DC and Emmons a bunch. I would not want to go up the Emmons as it is one big seemingly never ending slog. The DC is a cattle trail. I would not want to spend a bunch of time on either routes because of all the people. I would go to the Kautz, there is some objective danger but no different than the DC. It takes about a minute to cross under the serac. Traveling up to the high camp requires glacier skills (crevasses) on the first day whereas that is not the case for the DC and Emmons. There are good camps with views that are not crowded. One can easily take two days to get to high camp and enjoy themselves while doing some skills along the way. The can be some ice on the Kautz, many think they need two tools but a competent person can do it with one. The first step is actually close enough to the high camp one could go up to it for a bit of practice. Earlier in the season it will be snow. The time to for it is mid-June to mid-July. Later the upper part of the route get lots of sun cups. I would also check out the courses on Baker by AAI. We ran into a couple of folks doing a course over 6 days and they were having a good time.
  20. [TR] MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall 03/10/2019

    Nice perseverance, but you were not in powder but Cascade Cement :-)
  21. Dawn Wall on Netflix

    Thanks I ended up watching it. Not bad. I did not know and forgot about few parts. There was some good images - all scenery though. More for the climbing crowd than the general public.
  22. Nice job, great write up, and great photos.
  23. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    Second that except more like 25 years for my Swallow.
  24. crampon lace

    Unless they are really long I leave them as is mostly because after a bunch of use they start to fray. At that point I can cut that bit off and melt the end to make a stiff end. Also I use crampons for different boots and sometimes with thick gloves so longer straps is helpful so not to take one's gloves off.
  25. for sale Searching for Feathered Friends Helios