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ScaredSilly

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Everything posted by ScaredSilly

  1. Booty discussion

    There is climbing culture and there are civil laws ... one might to read up on the later before spewing about the former.
  2. Old Everest Expedition Article

    The Japanese did the complete NE Ridge in 1995 with sherpa support and fixed ropes.
  3. Beta on Via Ferratas in the Dolomites

    Yes. The easier the route, the more butt sniffing. The more historic the route, the more butt sniffing. The more scenic the route, the more butt sniffing. We rented a car in Milano and drove like mad Italians. Definitely makes the trip more optimal. Look up the places I mentioned. Two are towns one is a park with huts.
  4. Beta on Via Ferratas in the Dolomites

    One certainly does not need a guide but for some one certainly needs to get up early. Otherwise you will spend the day butt sniffing (i.e. being behind people). What are you going to have for transportation ? Having a vehicle is not an absolute but is certainly more efficient. I have done routes around Moena, Corvara In Badia, and Tres Cima.
  5. Alpine wilderness honeymoon recovery

    Or grounds for an annulment.
  6. Best place to resole rock shoes

    FWIW I used Komito for several years. But Steve slowed down quite a bit in the past couple of years - he is well into his seventies and is a one person operation. The last time I had shoes to him he got so far behind that he had given up on the usual FIFO system and went to who was calling and wanting their shoes.
  7. The process is being followed. In these types of cases there is no requirement that the FS put such a change out to public comment. That is because there is an issue, safety that needs to be addressed. Such actions are quire common. I have seen this occur at other trailheads, they get slightly overcrowded but there are no issues, but then get really overcrowded and something has to change. What should be looked at is how best accommodate the large number of people. Does that mean operating a shuttle? Expanding the parking? That does require public involvement.
  8. Best place to resole rock shoes

    If they are Sportiva shoes I send them to Rock and Resole as they have the Sportiva lasts so the shoes come back great.
  9. Nice sleuthing and good conclusion to the snow pack.
  10. Nice, like Jason we had the hill to ourselves. The interesting bit is that though less snow the shrund was crossable. We had more snow but the shrund was wide open. Here is a picture of the summit ridge from July 2014.
  11. Mt Hood

    Bring a duffle and bag check it at Timberline Lodge.
  12. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    I can not remember how high we camped but we were not too far from the toe of the Jeff Park Glacier. Maybe around 7k??? The Mill Creek facing west can be interesting and will have the potential for wet slides.
  13. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    We did a single rappel to the west. Which seems pretty standard as from there one can traverse to Red Saddle via the west side of the summit pinnacle. Regarding a descent. We headed down the Mill Creek Glacier which was wet and sloppy. But then gained the Russell Glacier which we traversed to the Jeff Park Glacier. Not sure it was any better than going via the Whitewater Glacier but we did get a great bum slide in.
  14. Warm conditions on Jefferson...go or no-go?

    I think you will find the glacier portion to be okay if the shrund can be crossed. But given the overall snow conditions (poor) the ridge is going to be choss. Getting to the summit will probably be okay but then there is the descent. Which is going to be sloppy.
  15. [TR] Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop 06/21/2019

    Nice, especially taking time to enjoy the view.
  16. Very nice and way to do something different.
  17. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    The numbers are for people attempting the routes ... not necessarily those who were successful.
  18. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/3/19

    I looked at pictures from when we did it the ~1 July 2016 and the conditions look to be about the same. That seemed to be a normal year. So I would say conditions are a month ahead.
  19. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    Did anyone else look at the photos posted by the NPS? It looks to me that they might have hunkered down in a crevasse as there is no sign of them in the photos.
  20. [TR] Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge 06/03/2019

    The ridge is how I like my martinis, dry.
  21. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    ¬°Ay, caramba! I can remember topping out on Ptarmigan in similar conditions. We got our tent set up in one of the flat areas below Liberty Cap and hunkered down for the night. Got up in the morning to continued wicked winds but clear weather. We got the hell up Liberty Cap and down the Emmons. I remember walking into Sherman, with folks thinking we were bad azz hard men when we said we spend the night on top. People had lost tents that night at Sherman. We got something to to drink and eat and then went down the Whintrop and back to Ipsut Creek.
  22. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    One small data point, when we were on Liberty Ridge 30 years ago. We were the first of three parties to arrive at Thumb Rock for the night. That was a Saturday night.
  23. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    I think the recent accident at Thumb Rock and the avalanche in 2014 are more of wrong place wrong time accidents rather due to seasonal / climatic changes. Thumb Rock is conglomerated mud and it is hard to predict when it might crumble. The same for the seracs that avalanched. Being acclimate and fit is still no guarantee ala the accident on Howse Peak this winter.
  24. [TR] Mt. Baker - Coleman Headwall 05/30/2019

    Nice ...
  25. Years ago before the permits and shit show we skied up one March. The ski up was fine, but we walked down cause it was so icy. My friend brought his dog who was having a hard time with the ice as well. Several times she went sliding down.
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