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kadyakerbob

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kadyakerbob last won the day on March 13

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About kadyakerbob

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  • Birthday 01/04/1983

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    Portland, OR
  1. Trip: MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall Trip Date: 03/10/2019 Trip Report: (please forgive my subpar writing ability) Mike and I started up from Timberline at 5am on Sunday with our eyes set on the Reid headwall. As we headed up the groomers to the top of palmer everything was going smooth. Once above palmer we slowly made our way over to illumination rock, breaking trail in some good old thigh deep powder. One would think that this would be a pretty good sign that the Reid headwall is probably not in, but we were both too stubborn to call it. We stopped for a quick second once we hit Illumination rock to put our crampons on and then headed down to the base of Reid headwall. The first 20 feet started out as really nice hard packed snow and them quickly turned into thigh to mid chest deep powder. We managed to make it about 70% of the way to the base before we decided that it would take us a week to wade through the snow to the base. At this point we had two options, option A) head home, option B) slog through the thigh deep snow back up and over to the Devils kitchen headwall. Naturally we went with option B) After a good effort to get up to DKH we ran into another party down below that was aiming for the DKH. On any other day with snow conditions not so unforgiving we might have beat them to the base of the route. Not today though, these smart guys were skinning up like the rest of the smart people on the mountain. As we followed up through the deep snow we were faced with another dilemma. Do we follow these guys up the regular DKH route or give them some space like good humans and find another route. Once again we went with the second option and decided to head up to the DKH Variation on the right. As we headed up the snow was just getting worse, but we kept going optimistic that maybe we would find some ice or firm snow. Once we got to the beginning of the first step in the DKH variation route it quickly became evident that this was not in. To really confirm this i headed up the first step to see what the snow was like above. To my surprise it was total shit.... Now what do we do? Give up and finally call it a day? Definitely not! So we headed back down and waded through the snow once again over to the standard DKH route thinking that the two guys in front of us must be more or less off by now. Bingo! finally some decent climbing conditions. Looking up into the main couloir. Mike climbing up the first Ice step. Looking up the Second ice step. Conditions were really good on this and the Ice was thick. Mike at the bottom of the second ice step. getting the rope organized below the second ice step. Mike topping out the second ice step. Looking up towards the final slopes to the summit. The climbing was really mellow from here on up. mike coming up the last little bit before the summit ridge Summit ridge finally! All in all our day was longer than usual but we finally managed to climb something! DKH is definitely in good conditions right now. Ice is fairly thick and does take screws nicely. No need for really anything other than a handful of short screws right now. Gear Notes: 3 Ice screws Approach Notes: Thigh deep powder
  2. Trip: MT. HOOD - Wy'East Face Trip Date: 01/26/2019 Trip Report: With the warm inversion taking place and fairly certain most other routes would be full of falling ice Mike and I decided to climb the Wy'East. We left the car at 4:30am with the temperature in the mid 40's, but the surface/snow temps fairly reasonable. Mike and I left the car with the intention of getting to the top of palmer in under and hour but unfortunately for the 5th time so far this year we just missed it and managed to hit the top of palmer right at 5:36am. Once at the top of palmer we traversed slightly up as we made our way over to the White River glacier. We did rope up to cross the glacier although everything is pretty covered up right now. From here we had a quick look at the South face of the steel cliffs just to see if it might be in condition and it definitely was not so we continued down and around to the standard Wy'East route. This was our first time climbing the full Wy'East route and overall we think that the conditions were pretty good. The guide book is pretty spot on with the description although the traverse really inst that exposed and the overall climbing is extremely straight forward and mellow. With surface temps being a lot better than we had planned we topped out and then decided to run down to illumination rock and see if we might be lucky enough to hit one of the south west side routes before they became ice/rockfall funnels. Unfortunately once we got there and started to head down we quickly realized that we might be a dollar short and a day late as ice was just screaming down. Overall it was a great day with stellar spring like conditions. Gear Notes: 2 x pickets (didn't use them and not really any need for them on this route) Approach Notes: Standard south side route up to Palmer then traversed up and over to the White River Glacier. We roped up for this crossing although everything is pretty closed up right now.
  3. Mt Hood

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  4. I have a pair of Koflachs that i no longer use. These have been worn quite a few times but still have good liners and tons of life left in them. if interested please give me a call - 503-701-5809.
  5. FS- MSR Fury Tent $350

    This tent is basically new. Only used twice. i stepped on one of the poles and cracked it, you can send it to MSR and theyll send you a new one ive just been to lazy to do this. Great price on a great tent if you are interested please give me a call 503-701-5809.
  6. FS: MSR Fury 4season tent- $300

    This tent is in perfect condition. Only used a few times. I did crack a pole on the one climbing trip I brought it on but u can send this into MSR and they'll fix it for free. $300. Extremely sturdy and roomie 2+person 4 season tent!
  7. FS: BD Crash pads!!! Great price.

    I have a BD satellite pad$100 and a BD Mondo pad $150 for sale. Both of these pads are in great shape! The mondo has only been used two times and the satellite only a handful. I will cut $25 off if you buy them both so $225 or the combo.
  8. i have a BD mondo crash pad which is basically new and a BD Satellite crash pad which has been used a handful of times but also in great condition. These are the two largest pads BD makes. If i bouldered more than once a year id keep them but i dont. Mondo: $180 obo Satellite: $100 obo
  9. i have a black diamond Mondo crash pad which i have only used twice(looks brand new) and a Sattelite that i have used maybe 10 times which is also i great shape. These are great crash pads but i have realized that i dont boulder ever so they have just been taking up space in my small apt. Mondo - $200 Sattelite - $100
  10. Hood snow condish...

    I agree that the N. Side should be ok. Also looks like temps will drop as the week progresses. I'm heading up Saturday night, if anyone wants to join let me know. I'll make sure I get some pics showing the conditions.
  11. Hood North Face Access?

    Doing the approach from meadows would be a huge hassle. Starting at the Tilly jane trail head and walking will still work just fine. The fires that happened over the summer and the closed areas will not affect this. As for the time to climb the route including the hike in? a fit party should have no problem going car to car in 12 hrs. i have done it in as little as 8 but we had no snags and had previously done the route quite a few times.
  12. BD Cobra Ice Tools - $350

    Black diamond Cobra ice tools with detachable leashes and new picks. These tools have only been used a few times and are like new! Total value new is over $700 with leashes, picks ect....Please give me a call if you are interested. (503)701-5809 I live in the portland area.
  13. Hood Fri or Sat?

    Thinking about heading up to hood friday night or saturday. the weather should be nice saturday. and even if its not the snow conditions right now are perfect.
  14. I know the conditions wont be great this weekend in terms of weather but i still would like to get out. I am down to either driver up North and do something in the snoqualamie area (NY Gully, Pineapple express, Chair peak ect...) or Slog up somthing on hood. N.side, yocum doesnt really matter. Conditions wont be great but no shame in giving somthing a try. Anyone who has ample experience and likes to suffer please email me by friday. My regular partner has 2 back to back Acongagua trips so i am partnerless for the next month or so!
  15. Alpine tomorrow?

    If your still looking to climb i would be down to meet up friday night and climb somthing. I wouldnt mind doing new york Gully again. Their are a few other routes to the left of NY gully that i hear are good to? let me know.
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