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About diepj

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  • Birthday 03/31/1978


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  1. [TR] Mt Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall 05/05/2018

    Cool, thanks for the TR! Looks like you may have opted for one of the more interesting top-outs. I'm wondering where the "longest and most-committing" characterization came from. One of my favorite aspects of this route is that it's on the easy side of the mountain in terms of approach and descent. With your speed and fitness you certainly made an easy day of it. No matter how you slice it I think it is one of the best all-around routes on the mountain, glad you had a great time!
  2. question "Heat Exchanger" pots with XGK?

    I haven't used a heat exchanger pot with XGK or whisperlite. What I did was adjust the wind screen foil pretty close. Never A/B tested it but I think it improves efficiency in a similar way. Excess heat is funneled up the sides of the pot and any breeze or moving air doesn't move heat out away. Since the burner sits below the pot I think you will still want to use a windscreen regardless.
  3. Thanks for the report, looks like great conditions up there. Did you see many crevasses and/or have trouble with the bergschrund? At this point in the season I'd be a little nervous about that having dropped a partner in mid-winter a couple years ago. At this point the route will be in until spring if the weather and avy conditions allow.
  4. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Yeah, booted up to Pine Creek Headwall. Climbed some easy low stuff over on the left hand side. I'll have to research a little more if I go again to figure out the extra mile to the Rock Creek buttress you mention.
  5. Illumination Rock

    Thanks for the update, looks like all of the Hood environs are coming into nice shape. Now if only the weather would hold until the weekend!
  6. Very cool! I have looked at those routes in OR high a few times and wondered about the possibilities... Thanks for the report.
  7. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    I was able to check it out last weekend. Very cool setting and some nice ice flows in there. Lot's of opportunity for interesting looking routes to the top in an alpine flavor. Concur 100% on the access. It was very rough. With a full-size 4x4 we made it across the private land but decided to stop when we had to chain up to get out of a tricky spot. There were (Mark's?) jeep tracks to the top but not knowing what was ahead we didn't want to continue alone. I always prefer using chains to get out of trouble not deeper into it! The road is steep and rough. There are not many places to turn around... A small high-clearance vehicle (like a jeep) is ideal. Full size truck is a tight squeeze (too tight if you like your paint) and some of the turns are pretty tight as well. Right now there is not much snow which makes the drive possible for such a vehicle. Suby? No way! Mark is 100% right that there are some HUGE slide paths on the road! Bottom line, I could see going back, early season when the snow is light. Fun, interesting spot. But it's a long way from the west side and a lot of effort getting in.
  8. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Awesome! Looks like another place that will cut straight from "I've never heard of it" to a conga line on the road in next weekend. The internet - can't climb with it, can't climb without it...
  9. New forum software!

  10. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    New forum software has busted the google link but here's a cache of an old TR: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:z5c5xJqfK1sJ:cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php%3Fubb%3Dshowflat%26Number%3D518874+&cd=14&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-b-1
  11. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Yes, more info, please! I love that area and would love to check out some ice there.
  12. New forum software!

    My first concern was that all the old emoticons would be lost. Glad to see those are still rocking. Although, unless you have the syntax in order to search, the entire palette does not appear to browseable. Only the "default" emoticons are visible. Unless of course the emoticons will serve as a secret handshake among the "in" crowd of old?
  13. I hammer away with a petzl Quark. Its a little awkward with the curve but seems to do the job. If you want to really weld something a standard hammer and a little more head weight would certainly be the better option.
  14. Illumination Rock?

    How quickly does this thing form up in the fall? We've had some moisture and some freeze-thaw. Got me thinking...
  15. No summit, only the top of the face, if I understand correctly. Not that it diminishes the accomplishment.