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diepj

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diepj last won the day on January 16

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About diepj

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  • Birthday 03/31/1978

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  1. Himalaya/Karakoram weather models

    I'll plug Chris Tomer. Used him a couple times in the AK range. Great guy, very helpful and responsive. I know he works with a lot of expeditions in the Himalaya as well. http://www.tomerweathersolutions.com/
  2. Trip: Mt Hood - Pearly Gates - Left Trip Date: 01/13/2019 Trip Report: Just a quick conditions update for Mt Hood. Took the left option in Pearly gates and found a short step of ice, maybe 5-6 feet. Followed by maybe 10 meters of low angle ice. It is in great conditions for those comfortable on water ice. Downclimbed the mazama chute. All the old chute routes are in and straightforward steep snow climbing. Saw several parties heading up DKHW and am interested to hear a conditions report there. Based on the ice in the gates I expect the headwall to be in shape with good ice. My 17th and first solo Hood. Well, except for the rest of the hoard. The hourglass: \ Crappy pic of the step: Top of the ice: Summit Pano: Gear Notes: 2 tools Approach Notes: Less painful in the dark.
  3. Thanks for sharing!
  4. [TR] Denali - West Buttress 5/28/2016

    Thanks for the bump Brandon, I had missed it this fall. Caused me to look at the pics for the first time in a while and remind me that life it too short not to make a few more of these happen. Just do it!
  5. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    A PDF posted up would be awesome. It sounds intriguing!
  6. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    I wasn't here in the heyday. I haven't really been here at all compared to most. I have however seen a similar trajectory with other sites. Based on that experience I don't think the bad actors have much to do with it. That was a struggle pretty much every site went through. Having been a member of other forums that were very heavily moderated to eliminate such behavior I have seen them suffer the same fate. Frankly worse. Most of them are boneyards now with a couple folks trying to hang on. Some of them are completely gone. All of the convo moved to FB. Maybe its left there for IG or twitter now I don't know. Having never gotten on board with the new wave social stuff it has left me behind. And I'm OK with that. In the early days the workplace hadn't really matured to deal with internet access. I think there were a lot of people with desk jobs whose work demands hadn't caught up with the increase in productivity afforded by the internet. I.e. it was easy to slack and spend most of the day attending the virtual water cooler. Message board forums are really suited to desktop computer use. Mobile forum software just insn't as easy on a phone as a FB thumbs up or a tweet blast. Not to mention assembling a quality TR. So the transition to mobile has also beena big part I think. I still appreciate the TR history here and the fact that people still post them up. I hope it can stay alive.
  7. They promised they would never let the other die alone.
  8. [TR] Mt Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall 05/05/2018

    Cool, thanks for the TR! Looks like you may have opted for one of the more interesting top-outs. I'm wondering where the "longest and most-committing" characterization came from. One of my favorite aspects of this route is that it's on the easy side of the mountain in terms of approach and descent. With your speed and fitness you certainly made an easy day of it. No matter how you slice it I think it is one of the best all-around routes on the mountain, glad you had a great time!
  9. question "Heat Exchanger" pots with XGK?

    I haven't used a heat exchanger pot with XGK or whisperlite. What I did was adjust the wind screen foil pretty close. Never A/B tested it but I think it improves efficiency in a similar way. Excess heat is funneled up the sides of the pot and any breeze or moving air doesn't move heat out away. Since the burner sits below the pot I think you will still want to use a windscreen regardless.
  10. Thanks for the report, looks like great conditions up there. Did you see many crevasses and/or have trouble with the bergschrund? At this point in the season I'd be a little nervous about that having dropped a partner in mid-winter a couple years ago. At this point the route will be in until spring if the weather and avy conditions allow.
  11. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Yeah, booted up to Pine Creek Headwall. Climbed some easy low stuff over on the left hand side. I'll have to research a little more if I go again to figure out the extra mile to the Rock Creek buttress you mention.
  12. Illumination Rock

    Thanks for the update, looks like all of the Hood environs are coming into nice shape. Now if only the weather would hold until the weekend!
  13. Very cool! I have looked at those routes in OR high a few times and wondered about the possibilities... Thanks for the report.
  14. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    I was able to check it out last weekend. Very cool setting and some nice ice flows in there. Lot's of opportunity for interesting looking routes to the top in an alpine flavor. Concur 100% on the access. It was very rough. With a full-size 4x4 we made it across the private land but decided to stop when we had to chain up to get out of a tricky spot. There were (Mark's?) jeep tracks to the top but not knowing what was ahead we didn't want to continue alone. I always prefer using chains to get out of trouble not deeper into it! The road is steep and rough. There are not many places to turn around... A small high-clearance vehicle (like a jeep) is ideal. Full size truck is a tight squeeze (too tight if you like your paint) and some of the turns are pretty tight as well. Right now there is not much snow which makes the drive possible for such a vehicle. Suby? No way! Mark is 100% right that there are some HUGE slide paths on the road! Bottom line, I could see going back, early season when the snow is light. Fun, interesting spot. But it's a long way from the west side and a lot of effort getting in.
  15. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Awesome! Looks like another place that will cut straight from "I've never heard of it" to a conga line on the road in next weekend. The internet - can't climb with it, can't climb without it...
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