ScaredSilly

To those who contribute and maintain it, thanks for all the work. This site helps keep me young ...

If you are using skis to 11k or 14k they are transportation nothing more. Find an old pair of the Silvreatta 404s or even 300 and mount them up. Adjust them for your Baruntse's. That will get you up the hill and back down. The skiing to 11k is basically a long uphill, Motorcycle Hill can be skied or walked, we did both while acclimatizing for another route. Both take about the same amount of time and effort. Walking is easier if you have a sled cause you can go up rather than side hill where it will roll. I prefer drag bags. Above that you are at Windy Corner and yer back to a long uphill to 14k. Once at 14k if it is stormy yer probably not going far. And if nice weather head up with a load. Taking two pairs of boots is silly. Replace the weight and bring good food or booze. If you want to ski the upper hill then plan for that. But given what you are describing that does not sounds like what you really are planning.

Should just remove that crap and hike it out of the wilderness.

I have done a fair amount of 4th class climbing. That means it could be 3rd class to easy 5th class. About the only thing I can think of that we do is when traveling unroped we tend to be close together so if the first knocks something off it will not have traveled far before potentially hitting the second. When we decide to break out the rope we rarely short rope and depending on the terrain try to keep two pieces of gear in at all times. Sometimes it is only one. Edit to add that the 2018 ANAM has a blurb about 4th class climbing.

At 1:10 you can see why the victim was were he was at. Obviously he slipped.

Though these guys are long gone. Folks should take the time to seek out the old guard and hear their stories first hand. I have had the chance to sit around the table with many of the old guard. Hearing their stories first hand has given me fond memories. It would been great to have heard these guys stories. I would have come in first but for that damn bull! Got even as we ate it!!

Exactly ... all related: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cascade_Volcanoes

Very nice. I have thought it would be fun to do them all in a season but at more leisurely pace and sure as hell not by biking between. As for who has done what it depends on how one wants to count and everyone seems to quit when they hit the Canadian border which also has active volcanos that are part of the Cascade Range.

A one shot short haul. Good thing his anchor was marginal. Lucky boy.

Nothing like a case of HAFE to make one feel alive in the mountains. Nice job.

The last couple of times I have gone via Paradise and the Wilson. If you have a full three days and want to see some less traveled terrain start low. You can always go up and over, come down the DC, and hitch back to your vehicle.

A mossy chosy summit and a trundle what more could one ask for.

Stake your tent with ski poles, take it completely down when you make your summit bid. If the wind is big ... sleep in the public shelter at Muir. Worst case, you spend the night in the shitters.

FWIW there are several bivy sites right by the down climb/rap. They can lack snow (but one can easily find some near by) but being right by the rap one can figure out everything in the light.

It could be done with some work. Take all this with a grain of salt as I do not know the Tahoma terrain all that well. When descending the Tahoma one needs to descend to around 9000' to the Puyallup Cleaver. From there one could traverse over and down to the South Mowich at 8500' which is the base of the Sunset Ridge. If one then climbs to 9500' you reach a gap that leads over to the Edmunds. So if you camp low that would work. It would be temping to traverse from St. Andrew's Rock under Sunset Amphitheater and drop from there to the South Mowich but from the pictures I have always seen below around 10k it is pretty jumbled. That said, in Fred's book he shows where it possible to traverse on to Sunset Ridge at about 10.5k from St. Andrew's Rock. I would say to try that early season but not this year because on the Tahoma side it is already bare rock and there is a bergshrund on the Sunset Ridge side that goes pretty much across the whole of the ridge at around 10k. The other reason why I would suggest a carry up and over is that end of the difficulties at the top of the Mowich is 12,800' or so and is a fair distance from Liberty Cap. Even further to Columbia Crest. So if you start low it is going to be a really long day.