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ScaredSilly

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ScaredSilly last won the day on June 17

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About ScaredSilly

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    old hand

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    Serious Yahoo
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    Ootah, USA
  1. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I have done a fair amount of 4th class climbing. That means it could be 3rd class to easy 5th class. About the only thing I can think of that we do is when traveling unroped we tend to be close together so if the first knocks something off it will not have traveled far before potentially hitting the second. When we decide to break out the rope we rarely short rope and depending on the terrain try to keep two pieces of gear in at all times. Sometimes it is only one. Edit to add that the 2018 ANAM has a blurb about 4th class climbing.
  2. Close call for Summitchaser

    At 1:10 you can see why the victim was were he was at. Obviously he slipped.
  3. Mount Baker Speed Record

    Though these guys are long gone. Folks should take the time to seek out the old guard and hear their stories first hand. I have had the chance to sit around the table with many of the old guard. Hearing their stories first hand has given me fond memories. It would been great to have heard these guys stories. I would have come in first but for that damn bull! Got even as we ate it!!
  4. Exactly ... all related: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cascade_Volcanoes
  5. Very nice. I have thought it would be fun to do them all in a season but at more leisurely pace and sure as hell not by biking between. As for who has done what it depends on how one wants to count and everyone seems to quit when they hit the Canadian border which also has active volcanos that are part of the Cascade Range.
  6. Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

    A one shot short haul. Good thing his anchor was marginal. Lucky boy.
  7. Nothing like a case of HAFE to make one feel alive in the mountains. Nice job.
  8. Preferred Kautz Approach

    The last couple of times I have gone via Paradise and the Wilson. If you have a full three days and want to see some less traveled terrain start low. You can always go up and over, come down the DC, and hitch back to your vehicle.
  9. [TR] Wabbit Ears - Standard 06/17/2018

    A mossy chosy summit and a trundle what more could one ask for.
  10. Stake your tent with ski poles, take it completely down when you make your summit bid. If the wind is big ... sleep in the public shelter at Muir. Worst case, you spend the night in the shitters.
  11. [TR] Mount Rainier - Kautz 06/24/2018

    FWIW there are several bivy sites right by the down climb/rap. They can lack snow (but one can easily find some near by) but being right by the rap one can figure out everything in the light.
  12. Edmunds Headwall route on Rainier

    It could be done with some work. Take all this with a grain of salt as I do not know the Tahoma terrain all that well. When descending the Tahoma one needs to descend to around 9000' to the Puyallup Cleaver. From there one could traverse over and down to the South Mowich at 8500' which is the base of the Sunset Ridge. If one then climbs to 9500' you reach a gap that leads over to the Edmunds. So if you camp low that would work. It would be temping to traverse from St. Andrew's Rock under Sunset Amphitheater and drop from there to the South Mowich but from the pictures I have always seen below around 10k it is pretty jumbled. That said, in Fred's book he shows where it possible to traverse on to Sunset Ridge at about 10.5k from St. Andrew's Rock. I would say to try that early season but not this year because on the Tahoma side it is already bare rock and there is a bergshrund on the Sunset Ridge side that goes pretty much across the whole of the ridge at around 10k. The other reason why I would suggest a carry up and over is that end of the difficulties at the top of the Mowich is 12,800' or so and is a fair distance from Liberty Cap. Even further to Columbia Crest. So if you start low it is going to be a really long day.
  13. Edmunds Headwall route on Rainier

    Sunset is a +/- 45 degree slope for a long ways. Not something I want to descend unless I needed to do. If I have already carry my crap to the top (which I have done seven times) I am going down either the Emmons or DC/Ingarham much easier. The other option is the Tahoma ... but it can be complicated. Though coming down you will be able to see more.
  14. Edmunds Headwall route on Rainier

    If coming from Mowich Lake you are going come via Spray Park to cross the North Mowich and then Edmunds Glaciers. I have crossed the North Mowich a couple of times late May and mid June but that was a decade plus years ago. It was not bad then. We crossed the Tahoma and South Mowich over Memorial Day this year. Again not bad. But this year there did not seem to that much snow - parts of Sunset Ridge were already rock and a huge bergshrund at the base. As for the route, carry over as there is no feasible option unless you leave a camp really really low. And then it is still a PITA. The Mowich approach is probably the least desirable approach because of the car shuttle. I would check with rangers to see if they have done any recent flights with pics. They usually post them to the blog. Here is photo from 10 days ago, to be honest it does not look bad. The shrund at the base might be the biggest issue.
  15. Edmunds Headwall route on Rainier

    How do you plan to approach? Mowich Lake or West side road? The issue is that between low snow years and climate change the cracks open up earlier.
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