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ScaredSilly

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ScaredSilly last won the day on June 17 2018

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About ScaredSilly

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    old hand

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    Serious Yahoo
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    Ootah, USA
  1. crampon lace

    Unless they are really long I leave them as is mostly because after a bunch of use they start to fray. At that point I can cut that bit off and melt the end to make a stiff end. Also I use crampons for different boots and sometimes with thick gloves so longer straps is helpful so not to take one's gloves off.
  2. for sale Searching for Feathered Friends Helios

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Feathered-Friends-Hooded-Helios-Down-Jacket-Green-Mens-XXL-Made-In-USA/143086006186?hash=item2150972faa:g:MqwAAOSwR0dcNuHv
  3. [TR] Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully 01/02/2019

    Very nice. I once had the opposite on a trip on the north side. Windy the whole trip up the hill. Once on the summit it was gone.
  4. Dogs and Mt St Helens

    Same here. A local trail which is dog friendly people do this ad nauseum. As such, I have gotten in the habit of kicking the shit bags into the middle of the trail. What is even worse is when their dogs shits within 100 yards of the parking lot, they still leave the bag trail side. Like it would kill them to run 100 yards back to the poop can. I talked to a friend who is a rabid pro dog person and worked with a local group that was active with allowing dogs on this trail about trying to advocate that people pack their pup's poop. Their response was if they have to pack it, they will not pick it up. At this point I am now working with FS for more active management.
  5. Winter climbing in Bend?

    If the weather is descent a trip into Mt. Washington is a reasonable ski tour day trip. Though spring time is when most go in as the snow is more consolidated. One issue to consider with Broken Top is avy danger. See the attached picture.
  6. Suunto recommendations?

    Years ago I bought a Suunto watch from their woman's Core series because one could get a rubber case that allowed it to hung from a lanyard around one's neck. Not sure if any of the newer watches can be set up the same but in most usages actually wearing a watch on one's wrist is a PITA.
  7. Falling with skis A-framed

    Except when one is climbing up one route and descending another route which I have done many times. For the OP, while I have never tried or had to self arrest with skis on my back my immediate thought is that if you are lucky enough to fall and be in a self arrest position that the tips of the skis are likely going to impede one from getting in a full arresting position.
  8. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    Like DPS I learned to climb ice in the last century. I have found that people have gravitated to curved handled tools for climbs that really do not need them. Especially when there is barely any steep terrain. Which means the tool is worthless for caning and plunging. At the same time such tools force people to go all four well before it is really needed and thus crawl. For Leutholds all one needs is a std. axe and a ski pole. Petzl Summit Evo and a 50 cm Sum'Tec are a good recommendation. That will get you up many routes even routes like Liberty Ridge. IMHO the best all tools are the first generation BD Cobras. Slight curve, can plunge and cane, good swing, functional adze, can climb all kinds of stuff with them.
  9. CascadeClimbers.com Turns 17

    To those who contribute and maintain it, thanks for all the work. This site helps keep me young ...
  10. Skis for Denali

    If you are using skis to 11k or 14k they are transportation nothing more. Find an old pair of the Silvreatta 404s or even 300 and mount them up. Adjust them for your Baruntse's. That will get you up the hill and back down. The skiing to 11k is basically a long uphill, Motorcycle Hill can be skied or walked, we did both while acclimatizing for another route. Both take about the same amount of time and effort. Walking is easier if you have a sled cause you can go up rather than side hill where it will roll. I prefer drag bags. Above that you are at Windy Corner and yer back to a long uphill to 14k. Once at 14k if it is stormy yer probably not going far. And if nice weather head up with a load. Taking two pairs of boots is silly. Replace the weight and bring good food or booze. If you want to ski the upper hill then plan for that. But given what you are describing that does not sounds like what you really are planning.
  11. Recent intel on Sisters Marathon?

    Should just remove that crap and hike it out of the wilderness.
  12. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I have done a fair amount of 4th class climbing. That means it could be 3rd class to easy 5th class. About the only thing I can think of that we do is when traveling unroped we tend to be close together so if the first knocks something off it will not have traveled far before potentially hitting the second. When we decide to break out the rope we rarely short rope and depending on the terrain try to keep two pieces of gear in at all times. Sometimes it is only one. Edit to add that the 2018 ANAM has a blurb about 4th class climbing.
  13. Close call for Summitchaser

    At 1:10 you can see why the victim was were he was at. Obviously he slipped.
  14. Mount Baker Speed Record

    Though these guys are long gone. Folks should take the time to seek out the old guard and hear their stories first hand. I have had the chance to sit around the table with many of the old guard. Hearing their stories first hand has given me fond memories. It would been great to have heard these guys stories. I would have come in first but for that damn bull! Got even as we ate it!!
  15. Exactly ... all related: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cascade_Volcanoes
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