Nolan E Arson

Climbed it last Sunday (11.10), and there were two teams behind us. Another team was rumored to have bailed on the approach; and heading down across the toe of the E Ridge we spoke with a party of two planning to climb the couloir the next day. I was very glad we were first to the route. Indeed there is a lot of shelling from just one’s partner—let alone from multiple teams above—and debris accelerates pretty fast in there! I imagine that the fun cruxes, and easy but quite run-out snice sections would have been less fun to lead while being pelted constantly by the little stuff, and while the bigger stuff hums eerily past your head. We tried to be gentle, but obviously there’s not much to be done. Beautiful climb in an absolutely perfect alpine setting. I feel lucky to have had the chance to climb it, and I’ll definitely join the chorus and say that it’s one of my favorite climbs ever.

Bump Still got ‘em. Brand new. Drop to $500

This is fantastic—nice work!

Shit. More bad news

Good stuff—thanks!

We took a cab from DF to Apizaco for a Malinche hike. It was a bit pricey, but we were in a hurry, and didn’t have the lay of the land—transport-wise. Bus from there to Tlachichuca (and back to DF) was cheap and quite nice. It was nice to actually be in the culture for a minute, instead of always being the rushing tourist. I read something about the mandatory insurance for car rentals being expensive, so I didn’t dig deeper. That said, there were a few parties (even twosomes) of climbers who did rent, so it can’t be that bad. I really don’t know...

Seems pretty common to drive to Tlachichuca in a rental, then arrange higher transport through Servimont. They shuttle up and down all the time. It’s also a convenient place to get fuel.

We stayed at Servimont one night on each end of the Orizaba trip, arranged for transport to Piedra Grande, and bought water and fuel. It’s a simple climb, just a fun slog at elevation. I would save your money and not hire a guide. It was just my girlfriend and I travelling and we had no issues. I speak semi-decent Spanish, but lots of folks pull it off with zero Español. We only had seven days, and only climbed Orizaba—with a stopover to hike La Malinche for acclimatization. So no info on the other volcanoes. It was a great trip, and totally doable with a short window.

Agree. Mexican bus travel is pretty easy and safe (and nice!). Cheap too. If you go for Orizaba, check out Dr. Reyes’ services in Tlachichuca. Totally customizable and affordable. http://www.servimont.com.mx/en/

Here’s a pic from a sun break on the Palmer webcam today. After the long storm it looks well covered up there. Probably no open bergshrund concerns. With the sun breaks and some more freeze thaw, hopefully the snow will be well consolidated. Sunday’s weather forecast and the lower freezing level look lovely for climbing. A second tool is recommended for beginners, or for the surprise icy section. Have fun!

Yes they are! I’m in Portland and have a pretty open schedule if you want to meet up to check them out.

Bumping. Price shrinks again. $525

Are PRG memberships transferable?

Brand spanking new, cradled in their box. Dropping the price to $600.