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backclipped

year in review

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Its been an amazing year.

-over 100 pitches

-First alpine ice - NE buttress Chair Peak

-First Ice lead - Strobach

-Indian Creek - Spring Break

-Kor Ingalls Route - Castleton Tower

-Made it to 19,600 on Denali via the Muldrow Glacier route

-Flailed in Eldorado S.P.

-Amazing climbing in sinks canyon WY

-Hyalite

-More ice

 

damn good 2009

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*sigh*

 

The birth of my daughter all but eliminated by summer climbing season but I was able to break free from our California meet the (great) grandmas trip up to Tuolumne to finally tick off the Regular Route on Fairview Dome (~12P 5.9)

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What a year! This was my second year climbing at all and 1st in the alpine.

 

Reid HW

Wy'East

Leuthold Couloir

South Side x3

Mt. Washington (OR)

Mt. St. Helens

Serpentine Arete, Dragontail

Mt. Thielsen in Winter

Middle Sister Bivy

Onsighting .10b/c sport

Redpointed .11a sport

First trad leads (up to .9)

First aid leads (after breaking a finger bouldering)

First Ice climbs/leads

Started volunteering for Eugene Mountain Rescue

Attempts (turn-arounds) on several routes that helped build good judgment and humility in the alpine.

Convinced my mom that she doesn't need to go into a depression every time I go climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

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damns, what's with all the baby daughters?

 

i also happily became the daddy of a little girl this year, January 12th! and somehow found more dedication and time (funny how they go hand in hand) to climb and train (well, train) more than i ever have, going from hobbyist climbing half-serious 6 mo's out of the year to really stoked near full-time climber.

 

bolted a few lines in the last year, one called Baby On Board in honor of my wife's pregnancy. weighed in around 13b/c and super fun. the extension is waiting for efforts this upcoming winter and spring, and is significantly harder, maybe 14a or b (hence the training).

 

bolted and FA'd another line called Silverback, also around 13b/c. super fun bouldery affair.

 

another bolt job extended an existing 13a, creating a line that will probably be in the 14 to 14+ range. premature to guess right now, but so it seems. that one i'll probably open up to any takers cuz i'll be occupied with babe extension, and don't see a less than multi-year effort for me to possibly rp it (if i ever could!).

 

a good year, on many fronts!

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oh, I did my first 'serious' solos.. wich was cool. Up to 5.11a wich was a big deal for me as well as some r and X rated leads and aid leads to A3..... basically I dealt with a lot of fear/mental control issues!

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11 FAs in the Tieton, but didn't get a chance to send the 12th and best before the snow flew.

 

Found a new crag/bouldering area.

 

Alpine adventure at Chimney Rock, ID and urban bouldering at Lincoln Woods, RI.

 

Bouldered V7...in the gym.

 

Confirmed to myself that despite turning 45, I can still climb harder in the future.

 

Beyond climbing, won a case in the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals and had two governors, two senators, the state attorney general, and the Secretary of Energy on hand to announce the (proposed) settlement of one of my cases.

 

 

Edited by andyf

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I had five goals for this past year:

1 - Bolt and FA three sport routes in the 11a-c range at the crag I've been developing on near Seattle (Done). All three are 25-30m tall with multiple cruxes that are as fun as anything at the LTW at Index, IMHO. Skeptical? PM me and I'll take you out there in the spring!

2 - One good hard (for me) multipitch free route (done). Climbed the Passenger with good friends.

3 - Do an alpine FA (done). Got lucky and did a really great alpine rock FA/FFA on Sloan.

4 - Redpoint my first 12a. Didn't make this one...next year. It's all about motivation and discipline.

5 - Take my kids climbing a few times. (done)

I was also fortunate to:

- Climb my first V5s indoors.

- Climb at several crags I'd never visited before, including climbing routes a buddy recently developed.

- Stayed alive and healthy. Yes, that was a goal too.

- Survive a major remodel where I managed the second half of the job (phew!).

 

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Became a grandparent, Snowboarded off the top of Ellinor, went to JT, Went to Red Rock, Soloed Constance, turned 50, soloed WR Stuart, went to CoR, climbed some 11's at Smith and got up a half dozen routes in Tenino in December.

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11 FAs in the Tieton, but didn't get a chance to send the 12th and best before the snow flew.

 

Bouldered V7...in the gym.

 

Confirmed to myself that despite turning 45, I can still climb harder in the future.

 

Beyond climbing, won a case in the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals and had two governors, two senators, the state attorney general, and the Secretary of Energy on hand to announce the (proposed) settlement of one of my cases.

 

:tup: nice work!

 

what are your FA's like? sporto, trad, steep....?

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Recovered from my ACL surgery...back in good shape. Getting in better shape. Led Gandalf's Grip at Broughton's with one led fall to no injury. Led the Sickle at Broughton's. Got my sick AT setup. Summited my first peak with my wife on our one anniversary Mount St. Piran above Lake Louise and traversed down the backside to the Teahouse.

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He has been behaving recently due to his recent tenure at a Cambodian re-education camp. Hopefully we won't have to resort to administering a frontal lobotomy. But that option is indeed on the table.

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Hopefully we won't have to resort to administering a frontal lobotomy.

 

:confused: is there anything there to lobotomize?

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shouldn't kev be chiming in soon to say this thread should be in spray? :)

 

Thanks for doing it for me.

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Watched my ten year old son CRUSH at nationals this summer...he took 2nd in youth D...and link a sick crack route at Index...and redpoint 5.13 at smith...

 

Watched my seven year old son send his first outdoor 5.10's

 

Watched my 3 year old daughter start skiing...

 

 

GOT MUCH FATTER!

 

and watched my ankle fix itself

Edited by RuMR

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I had an amazing year and was fortunate to climb with many great friends. Too much exciting stuff to remember...

 

- First trip to South America, met great folks from across the globe, reached the "cumbre" of a couple Patagonian Spires

 

- Had fun on classics of the Southwest/Rockies, like Cloud Tower, Levitation 29, Fine Jade, Naked Edge and Scenic Cruise

 

- Won two grants from the American Alpine Club, couldn't ask for anything better!

 

-Got a soltice tour of Rocky Mountain Park from a local, climbing Hallett Peak and Notchtop Peak, and made a new friend.

 

- Completed a new route up Mt. Stuart with a great friend, and made one more in the intense bonding experience that ensued.

 

- Hit Alaska (first visit there) during a freak heat-wave, and got to climb 4 routes in the Mendenhall Towers. Built some character on the return to civilization.

 

- Explored more of the Cascades, backpacked into Stehekin with the wife, accompanied a friend on his first new alpine climb as he sent the crux pitches in good style, ticked off some local classics: The Passenger, Dragons of Eden, Acid Baby, The Scoop, The Tempest (but failed on the triple-scoop linkup), belayed co-worker on his first trad lead, on Prusik Peak.

 

- Watched friend narrowly avoid death on Inspiration Peak as we did half of the Southern Pickett Traverse.

 

- Led the first pitch of Japanese Gardens, maybe the best pitch anywhere

 

-Local ice & Thailand Limestone ended the year, can't wait for the next one.

 

 

 

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Climbed my first 5.10a multipitch in Red Rocks(Black Orpheus)

 

Finally led G-M in Index without falling.

 

Got my first pair of bifocals.( :( )

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Climbed a choss pile and vowed to never do it again. Climbed a few more.

 

Managed to get up a few excellent peaks too. Oh, and I got up the blue route at the gym last night :)

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Several spankings at Smith

NW regular route on Half Dome IAD

Bacher Cracker

Exum Direct

FA of 11+ gear route

Pooper Spur

Built a home gym

More spankings at Smith

Watched the same stupid climbing videos over and over and over....

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first year of climbing for me, starting with mazama basic class in the spring (I'm from flatland usa originally so..)

2 summits of hood this in the spring

some local crag climbing around pdx through the summer

re-did the south sister hike but just in snow conditions, snow camping

first visit to enchantments (no climbing..just lots of salivating)

north sister (se ridge)

took my dad (60) to wallowas and up eagle cap. curious about exploring more of the wallowas (china cap looks interesting)

trip to mt robson provincial park/jasper for 60 miles on the north boundary trail (and a lot of salivating over possibe climbing in that area in the future)

smith rock

jefferson

few trips this fall to climbing gym

some scrambling up the brothers, adams

then hood again over turkey weekend

and finally something slightly more eventful on hood, a leutholds/reid mishmash 2 weeks ago

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Met some new people - A couple of them turned out to be good climbing partners :).

 

Did some climbing...

 

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I had successful trips to Patagonia (Poincenot, Torre de Media Luna) and Alaska (Colton/Leach on Huntington, and Mini-Moonflower), with standing on the true summit of Huntington marking the end of a long vendetta with that elusive summit going back 11 years and four seasons of attempts.

 

Otherwise this year was about rock climbing and pushing grades. Enjoyed 3 trips to Squamish and 8 weekends at Index this summer. I changed my diet and lost 20 lbs since May, allowing me to redpoint a whole bunch of stuff that had eluded me thusfar, including the Sword and Slow Children. All in all I had 100 days in rock shoes in 2009, probably my most ever and psyched considering I worked more months than usual this year.

 

Enjoyed two weeks in Red Rocks in the spring with my wife and a consortium of partners and finally got to climb Epinephrine. :tup:

 

Climbed Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk in September. It doesn't get better than that!

 

Repeated the Passenger at WA Pass and a few other area classics.

 

Enjoyed a week in Yosemite with my wife, including repeating Serenity Crack. Then with my buddies Rob and Sam repeated a bunch of stuff I had done before including Moratorium and Rostrum. Didn't send on Rostrum but it was a significant improvement on the last time and I was pleased with the summers efforts being noticeable. Unfortunately my health wasn't so good in the valley. I arrived with a common cold, and then see below...

 

Didn't climb much ice in 09 but explored some waterfalls in Hunter Creek, outside of Palmer, Alaska.

 

The lowlight of the year was getting H1N1 in Yosemite and having the last week of my trip KO'd, and a nagging case of elbow tendinitis that has me currently focusing on cardio things for a bit. But there's a bright to side to that too. :tup:

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Got to take a trip to Canmore, which was awesome, but am now coming to the realization that I am going to spend a lot more money on ice gear.

 

The New Years Resolution of learning to ski is going to be bumped back a few years.

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