Crillz

Did this route a few weeks ago approaching via Silver Star Creek. No snow other than tiny patches at the base at that time. Didn't need more than tennies.

But that's when I'm always at the crux. Seriously though, all of the cars got windows smashed again? Lame, and every time I go there I say it hasn't happened to me "YET" (yet being the key word). Sad you have to speak as if it is only a matter of time. Maybe I should report a gun got stolen from my car or something - maybe the cops will get involved then.

Looking to chat with a hand surgeon and/or hand and wrist expert who is preferably also a rock climber. Anyone ever had scapholunate ligament surgery and still climb? Not really looking for medical advice, just straight talk on possible outcomes from scapholunate repair surgery.

Sorry all. Hope it clears up soon, and you have no lasting ill affect effects.

Can anyone provide an update? Maybe climbing as far as 8-mile campground or something. Thanks.

I thought it meant "X marks the spot". I pull on those all the time in hopes there's treasure back there.

Is that that guy with the dogs? Super nice, older guy, always shows up in the afternoons? He may have the record for accents up Godzilla .

Thanks for the advice. I'll try and remember that next time I do a multi day trip. I'll just sleep when I'm done.

For fists, probably want to have your hand turned so your palm is either pointing out or into the crack, and not toward either side. You should be using cupped jams, otherwise. For your feet, maybe change the position of your heal - probably drop your heal just a tad. Don't know, just guessing.

I was thinking of a return visit to Prusik. Possibility of fines and moral struggles have convinced me to figure something else out though .

Thanks for the input and opinions. We would have an impact as we would help erosion on our approach, etc, maybe even a deuce or two. Sleeping on rocks and drinking from the lakes is not a big impact in my opinion, but that is another thread. I haven't gone for the lottery before, but based on the method of drawing names based on the website, it didn't sound promising. Said it didn't matter if you got there first, and with the holiday.... Anyway, maybe join the shit show in Squamish instead or something. Rather not be hassled and have to lie about where we are going and where we have been.

Any consensus? Worth the risk? Find somewhere else to go over Labor Day Weekend? I think I remember somebody posting up about not having a permit and being stopped by a ranger, but it turning out ok.

Never got a reply.

AOK, You're about my age right now. I tore the meniscus in my right knee. It really wasn't too bad, but would kind of swell up after longish days on it - long approaches, hiking, etc. I went like that for a couple years - I assume I messed up my knee crashing dirtbikes in my early 20s, but I'm not sure. About 5 years ago, I finally got it checked out, as I was sick of knowing something could be a liability at one point. Got the whole X-ray/MRI gig. Partial tear - you could see it in the MRI. Doc said pretty common injury, blah, blah, blah. Got the surgery - just a couple small punctures where the tools are shoved in. Made me a nice DVD of the operation. Went smooth at first, but got a blood clot in my knee after 3 days - not the kind that could break and stroke you though. It made my knee swell up big time for a few weeks. Anyway, that is not too common. Some physical therapy helps get full confidence again, and a I was back 90% in probably 4 months. 100% shortly after. In reality I would say someone our age - 3 months or less would be common to get 100% physical and "mental" recovery. I said I would never do that shit (surgery) again after that. Now, my knee is great. If you don't want to drop the cash, or have shitty "insurance", I'd say take it easy for a bit. Train upper body only for a few weeks, and give it time to heal - only if nothing devastating happened. Slowly work back into it, maybe some stationary biking, or chill biking is in order - it will help keep loose and range of motion. Only you know if it's really fucked up. After a few weeks, if you don't think you can run, and then cut left or right real hard, get it looked at.

Sent PM

Here are a couple good methods: 1. The long blink method on strait sections of the road 2. Alternate between resting eyes - close one eye at time for a few minutes of rest

Not sure how hard you're climbing, but... We took doubles from fingers to #3, and a #4. I remember skating the #4 a bunch. I don't recall much need for smaller gear. Next time, I'd probably opt for the same rack (maybe minus a #3), as it seemed like we got beat down by the cold, so stirring the mojo to send was easier knowing runnouts weren't an issues. And one 60m is good enough.

:tup:

I use Accuvue Oasis Hydroclear. They are a two week disposable, if you take them out daily. You can wear them straight for a week without taking them out. The eye doc will give you a free set to try out. On climbing trips, I just never take out my contact lenses and use the re-wetting drops in the morning if I need to.

Just fold the 48" sling over twice (so you have basically 3 smaller loops), clip a biner through the whole thing on one end, hold the other end of loops and twist, then clip the biner through the other end/loops.

Last year sometime, we were up there chatting with another guy at that leftside squeeze. We figured it would take a bit of work to clean it up (with a push broom likely), and then it would fill up with crap again after winter. I suppose if we cleaned it up it could be good training for Yosemite (Steck Salathe maybe).

Looks like you scored on the weather! Also, looks like tennies will suffice for the approach by the end of the week?

Sissy! More like 5.9b-. With the new bolts I'm going to up on that traverse this weekend it should be much more cruiser though. Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later. See you out there!

Bought this harness a couple years ago, but my GF wears a small not x-small. She wore this harness once, so it's pretty much new. Retail is like $55 or something. Sell for $30.

Also, as for the government contractors: It is my experience that on the surface the government, whether state or federal, pays a significant amount more than what would be paid to an actual employee (other costs that weigh in are insurance, retirement, and benefits that the would have to be paid to an actual employee vs. just paying a set price for the contract - which is its own topic). I suspect the end cost ends up being higher to the tax payer in the long run - as contractor's work for profit and the government cannot. I've seen the billing statement for the contract I work under and my company charges the feds about 1.5x my salary. My employer doesn't actually provide any physical service other than pushing paper around - sending bills and logs of time which I fill out anyway.