Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by spotly

  1. I've tried quite a few different foods but feeling like it's a dart-shoot. Hopping out of the bag and shoveling down some oatmeal and a tea seems "ok" but the first hour or so feels sluggish. I've also done the big carb load the night before and just had tea in the morning - seems to work sometimes. Anyone have a favorite breakfast routine that privides them with some longer-term energy without slowing them down early on?
  2. Granite Peak Approaches

    I have a trip planned for Granite in August. Which approach do you prefer and why? Thanks
  3. Ice Ax and Cam

    Make reasonable offers. Black Diamond Raven Ultra 20 3/4" 4" C4 CHOUINARD-FROST ICE AXE PIOLET 31 1/4" BAMBOO SHAFT
  4. [TR] Yellowjacket Tower - Standard 8/6/2016

    I'm a glutton and actually enjoy the approach. Done it a few times now I like how you avoided the pitchy tree on the rappel.
  5. Ice Ax and Cam

    I've kind of forgotten about these, but still looking to sell if anyone's interested.
  6. Slick Rock

    Forecast for McCall looks nice for this weekend. Can I expect the routes on Slickrock to be free of running water this time of year or still too soon to drive all the way down there? Anyone know what it looks like right now?
  7. Ingalls Peak Conditions

    Anyone been in there in the last week? Any smoke lingering about? Is the snow melted out all the way to the base (of the standard route)? Domo
  8. Trip: The Tooth - Standard Date: 5/31/2014 Trip Report: The winter approach is still in ok condition. Snow was firm enough early morning but post holed a fair about through the basin on the way out. No big plug at the top of Pineapple Pass and there was even a nice tunnel to crawl through (or go over). There's still a fair amount of snow on the back side of the pass so we were forced to go lower than normal. No biggie though, since there were good steps. The rock route was snow-free and dry. Two single rope raps from the base of the rock got us back to mellower than normal snow in the basin. There's a bundle of webbing w/link on climbers left at the base of the first rap. Fun day out and had the route to ourselves till the last rap. Sure got hot on the way out though...oi. I twisted my leg up pretty bad post-holing between two boulders in the basin and now my knee is twice normal size. Doesn't seem to hurt though...unless I bend it too far. I brought an ice ax and used it on the backside of Pineapple Pass. Partner did not and seemed to do fine.
  9. Leavenworth Cragging Conditions

    Post back and let us know.
  10. Ice ax, cam Big Bro

    Raven Ultra. Can't recall exact length...shortish(see pic): $55 #4 C4, placed a few times only. Never fallen on. $50 Big Bro #2: $40
  11. Favorite Solo TR set-up?

    I'm all about efficiency Thanks.
  12. Favorite Solo TR set-up?

    I've used the Yates Rocker for years. For those who have used both, what are the significant differences between the Rocker and the Ushba Basic? For weighting the rope, a 1 liter water bottle works well for me.
  13. [TR] Yellow Jacket Tower, - Standard 10/19/2013

    It used to take a pink nicely but last time I went up there, a pink wouldn't come close to fitting either.
  14. [TR] Cannon - NW Ridge 6/15/2013

    I'm curious where you got on and off the ridge at on the way up. We dropped directly towards the lake then over flattish snow and up the same gully you went up. From the summit me decided to try to stay on the ridge coming down and managed to downclimb the on ledges and hidden chimneys to a col then decided to drop from there towards the lake on steep scree and snow, bypassing much of the ridge. Nice pictures. I agree - turtle.
  15. [TR] Mount Stuart - West Ridge 6/8/2013

    We did the West Ridge route and wound up doing an unexpected bivy on the decent too. It was well below freezing and we had an emergency blanket that saved our butts...barely. I always carry an emergency bag now. Yeah, that green valley sure is nice after something like that
  16. Split Peak Beta

    Is anyone here familiar with Split Peak; east and a bit north of Kootenay Crossing? I'm looking for beta of any kind...approach, route, best nearby burger joints.
  17. Split Peak Beta

    Thanks Dane. I'm holing up in a room at Seaside in Feb. Should be a good time to bring a good read.
  18. Split Peak Beta

    My fingers freeze off at 65 degrees so I stick to the summer routes - not sure about the river freezing
  19. [TR] MT Stuart - Full North Ridge 7/28/2012

    Not much, as we found out when stuck near the summit several years ago. Lesson learned: better to have an emergency bivy sack. Or better yet, not enyoy the rock so much
  20. [TR] Argonaut Peak - NW Arete 8/4/2012

    Seems lots of stuff comes tumbling off that area below Dragontail.
  21. Nice pictures and a good description of the route up NEWS. "Take the easier left gully, as the right does not have good pro and takes some committing moves. Continue working up and left over easy terrain. Do not go straight up or right unless you want to deal with offwidth pain." Brother, you go that right. My partner led that in tennis shoes because his toe was hurting. We thought we'd finished off the harder moves until he went right. He spent a looong time on that off-width, skating and shaking and with one piece 10' or more below him said "I think I'm going to take a break here." LOL. We put on quite a show for the peeps on top of SEWS. Good times.
  22. I'm thinking about heading up the do the standard route on The Tooth this weekend. Anyone been up there in the last week? Hows the approach from the upper lot(especially the little slidey area below the cliffs? Big ice block at the pass? Snow on the route? Thanks.
  23. The Tooth - Recent Conditions?

    I'm tired this year and it seems like an effort just to get out when the conditions are good. I think we'll hold off on this until the hard-packed steps are already kicked in...maybe do a nice hike somewhere instead. Thanks for the reply on conditions - really appreciate it.
  24. Rudest damned thing ever

    I have a double-locking trunk on the car so if they break a window, at least the trunk release won't work. Not sure if it's all that easy to break into a trunk otherwise but at least it's safer than leaving car camping crap in the backseat of my truck - looking for a steel box with a sturdy lock system for that. Really sucks that these guys got all their crap stolen. When car camping for more than a night, I always move the expensive gear from the tent to the trunk during the day and take along the cheapo tent. Then just before I leave, I wake up the guard:
  25. Vantage accident 3/18/12

    Thanks for sharing some of the details. Like others, I'm looking forward to hearing more about that sling. Hang in there and heal quickly.