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luvshaker

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Everything posted by luvshaker

  1. I second the antiperspirant. It works. Gold bond too. It's not great putting aluminum in you body, but worth it in this case.
  2. Good ideas so far. In the past I've heard of people working with/partnering with the boy scouts to get insurance. Not sure they are still doing this. The above comment is spot on about not being their "teacher". Unless you have a formal club, and are insured. Risk management would be all over you. Finally, it's really important to be ready to pull the plug at any moment with the whole group, or have two vehicles, and at least two leaders (with one of them designated to take any sick or lame home early, if needed). And now days, you probably need 3 in the car if they are minors.....
  3. I assume Mountain Project.com is still around for beta? Flagstone might have what you are looking for. Kid friendly. 25 minutes south on gravel roads off McKenzie Pass Hwy. Turn off at Finn Rock.
  4. Glacier crossing? Snow on ridge? Thanks!
  5. Tommy looks odd in the vertical adida$ $trips running down his pants. Pays for diapers I guess.
  6. You just have to find out if the road is open beyond Bachelor. If you can get to the trailhead, it should be pretty easy. Might need snowshoes/skies up higher. I always liked Diamond Pk around Thanksgiving. It's a big little mountain. Easy to get beta, close to eugene. Or just Mt. Bike around Oakridge.
  7. Agreed!! Except the way down can hammer the quads in a "Hey, remember ME!!!" In a not so nice way.
  8. Here are pictures: http://eugene.craigslist.org/for/4600497071.html 17 pins and blades 3 leaper hooks 4 hooks 4 bashies Fifi hook rivit hook Hammer with funkness device. Pika drill and bit. Aid style gear sling 2 Re-bolts 250.00 Txt me. I'll even ship for free... 541-912-Eight Two Nine Nine Lee
  9. Drive to camp 4 during the night, pull into the campground and get in line at 5am to get a spot. Live in camp 4 as much as you can during the summer. Meet as many people as you can and offer them cold beer and burritos-warm beer works too. Camp 4 is one of the friendliest climber places around. Be up front about you abilities and you should find people to take you out. The reader board is full of partner requests. If you can't find a partner go bouldering.
  10. That looked like an amazing day on the mountain! Way to get out and enjoy a beautiful day. Thanks for including the personal touch at the end. Anyone who has lost someone can see what a special moment that was.
  11. Seems like this is the year to get up there. I have a f150. not much tread and no chains required.
  12. Last weekend I drove up to 5000' on the west side of the cascades. Only about a foot of snow up there. Some snow, some rain in the forecast, but not much, unfortunately.
  13. Really enjoyed that!! Nice video. It was kinda chill sharma fung swcheea style without all the "Pfsssssiiiieeee!!"
  14. That video was fantastic. A phenomenon this video captures well is the reality of the force applied at mid-section of the climber at their harness. As mentioned earlier, even when the climber expected the fall they could not get down immediately into self-arrest. Most people practice self-arrest without that force on their harness. The speed and distance of the falling climber increase dramatically when you add the awkwardness of 200+ lbs pulling suddenly at your waist. The snow conditions were also interesting, it got a little "packed out" from the multiple trips, but it looked pretty powdery. Edit. I thought they weren't wearing crampons at first.....yikes, they were.
  15. Two that come to mind not in the books are: Judd Mountain. Road 5884 of of HWY 58. North facing 1800'chute. Some of the best ice, and steep climbing in the area. PM me for more info if you are interested. SO good, and a bunch unexplored. Lakeview Mt above Odell Lake is a fun winter trip. Head out from the little resort on the SE side of the lake and follow the RR tracks for a little while. In the book: Thielsen in winter is always good. Standard route on Mt Washington in winter goes. NE face of Middle Sister. Haven't ever caught it in shape, but supposed to be good when it is.
  16. Nice work! Some nice shots on your page. That route brings back some memories, it was one of my early climbs back in the day. When I did it there was a cornice that was pretty dang steep. That area around Broken Top crater is cool.
  17. From my perspective they look cool, especially when you have degenerative disk disease and bone spurs. No spins or headaches for me when I use them. The only distraction when belaying is all the beautiful European women asking me about them.
  18. Great shot of the Pearly Gates. Tings arr a changin up der.
  19. Totally true KW. So many of my best memories at smud rock include two star routes. I even made a tic list called the "2 star Trad select". Pigeon crap is actually pretty grippy. And as long as that flake didn't pull off on the last guy it SHOULD hold for you. I don't think I have ever gone there, even in the off season, and expected to get on any route that is 3 or more stars. Now 0 and 1 star routes....good luck with that.
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