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Everything posted by rocky_joe

  1. There is no one on the waitlist, but I will definitely post this there. Sadly, I signed up for what is probably the only course in the schedule without a waitlist. Because who wants to take a rock course at the end of ski season.
  2. Hey CCer's, I'm looking for someone to fill my spot for the AMGA Adv Rock Guide Course April 5-14 in Red Rock. I ended up tearing my labrum pretty badly, dislocating it 3 times in a month. Well turns out that the last time, which was the worst of the bunch, was 6 days after the deadline to withdraw from the course. The AMGA has said they won't issue a refund of the course fee to me unless the spot gets filled. If you or anyone you know has thought about taking this course, please consider applying for the April 5-14 course in Red Rock. The application process is open for the course on the AMGA website. Thanks, Joe Crawford
  3. Hope you have a speedy recovery. Was someone actually murdered? Seemed odd to draw that conclusion and not follow up on it.
  4. Is that a c2c time? Strong work! Such a rad feeling to know how fast you can do something, whether or not it's a record.
  5. sick! glad to see some more reports from people gettin after it back there!
  6. Trip: Trinity Alps - Date: 5/13/2013 Trip Report: I spent April 15-20 in the seldom skied Canyon Creek Drainage of the Trinity Alps exploring and skiing with 4 friends. The crew: Ryan Ghelfi, Ryan Matz, Brian Campbell, Sam Bedell and I, approached the cirque from the Canyon Creek TH outside of Weaverville equipped to spend six nights and seven days in the range skiing in Canyon Creek and neighboring drainages. The approach was entirely dry, making for heinous pack weights (~75lbs) for the duration of the nine mile, 3,500' approach. Our spirits took a continual beating for the first 80% of the trail with it looking unlikely that our efforts would be rewarded. Slopes above the creek, up to 7500ft, appeared to be bare on all aspect, but as we got to the final slabs before the lake, Ullr took pity on us and northern aspects with decent coverage began to appear. This welcome change was quickly followed by more of the same; soon all aspects appeared to hold skiable lines. Relief. It should be noted that the approach, while thoroughly difficult for all five members, was made by Ryan G. <48 hours after completing a 50-mile race (in which he finished 9th in a very competitive field). The latter half our our slog was accompanied by hail, wind and snow; these delightful hiking conditions resulted in setting camp at the lower lake for the first night, even forgoing dinner in favor of the relative comfort of lumpy, sloping tent sites and sleeping bags. The next morning we awoke to bluebird skies and temps in the twenties; a nice beginning to a full week of splitter State of Jefferson weather. Nervy scrambling over icy ledges, a dicey crossing over a fast flowing creek and some manzanita cursing led us to the snowline and the first time skis had been worth their bulk and weight. A quick skin up to L Lake, to the north of Sawtooth, got the stoke going. Steep, long and narrow couloirs litter the northern side of the cirque; one could easily conceive of a trip to the range with the sole mission of skiing these lines. We chose to ski from a col at the head of the cirque, where we dropped into the Stuart fork (this would be our only foray into this drainage) for some warm-up turns. This mellow line down moraines offered pockets of wind blown pow, but mostly skied like dust on crust with large swaths of ice. Back at the col, we took a few minutes to spy the lines across the canyon. The Stuart Fork is home to the goods. The East side of the canyon (before the drainage turns to run E-W) offers endless couloirs and gullies ranging in length from 1500'-3000'. After snapping some beta photos for later trips, we skied the fall line gully. We considered skiing another line in the cirque, what we would refer to as the "S Couloir," an elegant sweeping couloir that bisects the north face of Sawtooth for ~1,000', and instead decided to descend and move camp a few hundred (vertical) feet up the drainage to make access easier for the remainder of the trip. Despite being about 600m, as the crow flies, from our previous location, it took about 45 minutes to hike up and around the slabs to the east of the Lower Lake and and then those west of the upper lake. Our new location, about 300m upstream of Upper Canyon Lake offered stellar views of the west side of the drainage and quick access to most of the terrain we wanted to explore. Day three brought our first of many not-so-alpine starts. 9 a.m. quickly became our default starting time, with one exception. We set a skin track up the west side of the cirque to a col via a ridge sandwiched between two fantastic couloirs. Our first lap topped out at the obvious col and we skied fall line through what we called "The Way-Home Gully." Lap two topped out at a rock tower we settled on calling the "Thumb" for it's obvious resemblance. The top 500' offered our first steep turns of the trip, with a pitch around 40 degrees at the top. The top of this line offered stellar views and dizzying vertical drop on some lines that could be skied and others that would make exciting summer scrambles and rock routes. Another fall line ski led us to the "Middle Gully" and a steeper, more interesting descent with delightfully pow-tastic conditions. Brian and I headed back down to camp after these two laps while the others did a lap back up the skin track to the moraines. Thompson Peak East Face Couloir and the West Face of Ceasar Cap were the objectives for the next day, but warm temps and concerns over loose-wet slides as well as lingering wind-slabs split the group in this terrain. Matz and Brian headed for the Couloir, while Sam, Ghelfi and I skinned off towards the end of the cirque. We found a small notch and scramble to the ridge, that afforded a view of Grizzly lake and the terrain in the surrounding cirque. We made a few turns in perfect corn and traversed several hundred feet over steep terrain to a nice line down a peppered 45 degree slope. At the bottom of the line and in the hottest part of the solar oven, we watched Brian and Matz ski the couloir. With pretty the new snow turning to awful mank and that orb in the sky waging nuclear war on our noses we retreated to a second lap on the skin track up the west side. Sam, stuck around the top of the cirque and topped out on Thompson. His summit was followed by a traverse back to the skin track. While Sam was exploring more stellar terrain, the 4 of us skied our lap and then booted a 200' hill a few times for the first ever Trinity Alps small mountain comp. Ryan Ghelfi took the honors after a stellar link up of three consecutive cliff hits. After returning to camp, we began a marathon chill session. An afternoon of naps, snacks and sunscreen lathering was capped by an evening of music and rehydrated veggies. What seemed like a good idea: an evening soup with some Winco dehydrated veggies, ended up destroying Matz and me, with the former having to stuff down more parsley and carrots than would be reasonable for a horse. The night was wretched with gaseous expulsions that would make an ogre faint and a few hasty dashes to the trees. Olfactory evidence of the evening remained fresh through the following evening's dinner. Our only pre-sun-hitting-camp start was inspired by the East Face of Hilton Peak, our day four objective. We arrived at our top floor penthouse after just under three hours of skinning, skiing and even a little bit of dicey scrambling up a thinly covered ridge. This may be our only first descent of the trip, and while I'd love to claim it as such, it is difficult to know if it has been skied before. The top four or five turns were the steepest of the trip, about 50 degrees and were followed by 2700' of the best corn of the trip. This run was easily the most fun of the trip from top to bottom, fun steeps up high followed by moderate angle lines through cliffy terrain and finishing with mellow rollers dotted with small pines and manzanita. Our closest encounter with wildlife came on the skin back up the line; we followed fresh bear tracks for about 200' before diverging back to the east facing terrain above camp. After going on and on and on and on about the gully we could see from camp the Ryans finally appeased me and we went to ski the "Dead-End Gully," which completed the gully-fecta (all three gullies that return to camp through the cliffs on the west). The name, while perfectly suitable this year, would have been very different in any other year as the bottom 100' of slabs. Our last ski day saw us return to Sawtooth with the hope of skiing the "S Couloir." Our hopes were dashed by the due north aspect of the and our desire to ski Stonehouse Gulch, a southwest facing gully. We climbed up to the top of Stonehouse Gulch and found perfect corn for the top half before hitting lots of avi debris and general chunder for the last 1700'. We followed a faint trail back to the Canyon Creek trail where we dropped our ski gear. A quick hike back to camp sans pack weight and we packed up camp a day early and began the dry slog to the trailhead. Three hours later we made in back to the car, took a celebratory swig off a bottle of Maker's Mark and cracked a beer. Gear Notes: Skis, duh.
  7. Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall Date: 5/8/2013 Trip Report: I climbed the Reid Headwall yesterday with a friend from Shasta. We climbed the standard center variation trending left at every opportunity. The schrund is easily passable over a couple of debris bridges, with no other cracks to cross. We found lots of recent loose wet slide activity, and firm cramponing on the slide paths. The route was really fun, I'd climbed the right variation before, but this one was a lot more interesting. Our route had 4 distinct, but easy cruxes, the 2nd crux was a 10' step of easy mixed, we soloed everything, but there are a few other variations that would have been fun to rope up for. We enjoyed perfectly splitter weather for the whole climb and a windless, bluebird summit. Impatient as we were, the ski down the old chute was firm but fun, and everything from the Hogsback down was butter smooth corn and the groomer was just as fun as ever. Didn't take any pictures, but the route is good to go for at least a couple weeks. Gear Notes: Ice tools Ice pro- didn't use Skis- bring them
  8. Spent a week skiing out in the Trinity Alps last week and have some questions about what people have skied up there. I'd love to hear from anyone who has skied up there or knows someone who has, specifically Canyon Creek and Stuart Fork. PM me. Thanks, Joe
  9. Well add that to the list of things to ski before I die. Strong work and thanks for the stoke!
  10. this pic only shows the very top of the route, from the bottom of misery hill up, which is the usual finish to avi gulch, casaval ridge, sargeants ridge, west face and cascade gulch. Avi gulch, the standard route, is well out of the frame of this photo. I'll add another shout for Shasta being a pretty easy single day solo. I don't know if you ski, but if you, you should bring them. It turns a 3-4hr descent into 1 hr and makes finding a partner much, much easier. Good luck and have fun!
  11. I wouldn't get 00-0 master cams. I think you'd be much better of getting 1-4. This would give you the same number of cams, but with doubles in the finger sizes. And I'll add a second for DMM nuts over BD.
  12. buy the handren guide. don't dick around with any of the other guides out there.
  13. camping is not permitted in Red Rock, with an exception for bivy/overnight permits that must be approved/obtained at the entrance office. they're pretty strict about this and tow cars that don't have an overnight permit. Also, Tunnel Vision isn't as popular as other 5.7s and has some really classic climbing.
  14. 5) Kautz Glacier on my first Rainier trip. 4) Hotlum-Wintun Ski in horrible, horrible conditions. 3) Killer weekend at Smith in mid-august. 2) Three Sisters Travers in 9hrs. 1) Matthes Crest-SE Butt. Cathedral Peak link-up
  15. looks like you climbed something to me! thanks for the pics and stoke!
  16. Myths for me, but as was mentioned above, size them down at least 1.5-2 sizes. They stretch out a lot.
  17. Trip: Three Sisters - North to South Traverse Date: 9/6/2012 Trip Report: Completed the traverse yesterday with Ryan Ghelfi, a buddy from Shasta, in 9:01:25. After trying this route twice and having my ass handed to me both times it was a huge relief to get it done without incident, and even better to exceed my expectations. We went in to the day hoping for around 10 hours and to take the north ridge of south sister. We made an error gaining the SE ridge of North by missing the turn at the second creek and having to cut back a few minutes from sqaw creek. The only other route-finding decision of the route was whether to head up the north ridge or nw ridge on south. I'd not managed to find an "easy" route up the north ridge on my first attempt and didn't care to return there without having better beta, so we elected to take the nw. There is a nice-ish trail up the left side of the ridge that minimizes the soul-crushing scree climbing I found it to be last year. All in all, it was an excellent day out and loads of fun. We carried an axe with us, but never needed to use it as the terrible traverse is free of snow. It's prime season up there right now, y'all should go do it, cuz it's super fun. Splits / Total Pole Creek-> N. Sister 3:22:54 / 3:22:54 N. Sister -> Middle 1:27:49 / 4:50:43 Middle -> S. Sister 2:58:26 / 7:49:10 S. Sister-> Devil's Lake TH 1:12:15 / 9:01:25 Gear Notes: 2 liters water Shot blocks, gu, salame, mozzarella, salt pills Axe (unnecessary) Poles Approach shoes
  18. I've done both nw and north ridges during the traverse. Thought the nw was awful scree, and the north was loose and 4th/5th class...although I've been told that there is a way up the north ridge that is not harder than 3rd. I'm (for reasons beyond my grasp) going to do it again on Wednesday and considering taking another shot at the north as it is the route taken for the speed records.
  19. Trip: Matterhorn Peak - North Arete Date: 8/22/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the north arête of matterhorn peak yesterday car to car with a friend from Shasta and two others from Tahoe. Haven't seen this posted too many times so I figured I'd give it a shout. The approach was big, although I wouldn't go as far as calling it massive like the books do. We brought crampons for the approach/descent which were very useful; could be done without, but they sped things up on the glacier. The route finding went well for our group, started on the easier looking ramp past the base of the arête, and smiled through ~300ft of 4th to 5.6 terrain. The rock here is quite loose and gritty. Rock quality and climbing improved once on the right side of the arête. 3-4 more pitches of enjoyable climbing get you to the summit ridge where it easy/mod 4th takes you to the register. It was my first high Sierra route, and while it was fun, it will definitely never be a super classic because of the approach and rock quality in the lower half. No photos, because somehow not one of us brought a camera or charged phone. Gear Notes: Single .4-3 (4 might be nice for the last pitch), nuts with some doubles in mid sizes. Lots of slings. Approach Notes: 6mi, 4.5k on half on/ half off trail. Pons are nice for the "glacier."
  20. The bd couloir harness fits comfortably beneath my pack's hip-belt. My pack has gear loops on the hip belt, so my gear gets clipped there, things may not work as well if you plan on clipping gear to the loops on your harness.
  21. What I gather from this post is: you are awesome. you are an animal. you've climbed rainier. You are awesome. You've climbed rainier in shitty weather, TWICE! You are awesome, you couch dwellin' animal you. Also, everyone else sucks.
  22. Walking uphill is not that hard, you're right, but over a glacier that does have a few bits where you ought to be able to recognize and negotiate crevasses does require some practice. The attitude you've taken inyour response essentially implies that attempting to learn mountain skills beforehand is worthless, because, hey you're a smart guy and can figure it out. I wholeheartedly disagree with this sentiment, as a guide on mt shasta, which is nit a serious mountain to climb, I see people, every week, doing things that jeopardize their and other's safety. Going into the mountains without the ability to properly use the gear, crampons, axe, rope, biners, etc. Is very irresponsible, much less on a route with substantial objective danger. After two years of instructing people, of all ranges of fitness and intelligence, I would say that even those on the higher end of both spectrums still take practice in basic skills like walking and self arrest, not to mention mastering glacier rigging, nots, rope mgmt, and rescue techniques. Also, he may be able to figure out a 3:1, by will he be able to build an anchor while in self arrest with his parnter's weight pulling him, escape the arrest and then execute a rescue? Also, a 3:1 will never be successful with one person. A 6:1 or 9:1 will be needed to get a climber out of a crack if there is only one rescuer.
  23. Ultimately, he'll do what he wants and even with the opinion of every climber ever he'll likely not change plans. However, I do think you are right in wanting them to find a 3rd experience partner. The standard route on rainier, while heavily trafficked, is a moderately serious glacier route that might be asking a lot from a first time mountaineer without more experienced eyes. By this time of year, the route will be wanded and tracked by the guide services, however a crevasse fall is still possible on either of the glaciers crossed. If your husband has not had a lot of practice with necessary rescue techniques (reading and video watching are not practice) he ought to have a couple days, at a minimum, of practice outside with someone, perhaps his current partner, to talk him through a couple scenarios, and then do similar scenarios with his partner acting only as a barrier against critical mistakes. Beyond practicing rescue techniques, acquiring a 3rd patner for the climb is probably the best thing he could do, so ling as the person is competent. If he could be talked into taking a skills course with a guide or instructor, even just a day-long course will benefit him, and your anxiety, hugely. That way he and his partners, if they take the course together will all have a common foundation of knowledge and confidence in eachother's abilities to perform their duty as a partner on the mountain. Hope this helps.
  24. Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Date: 5/18/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the kautz Wednesday with two friends from Shasta. We approached the route over the nisqually and Wilson glaciers which are both easily passed right now. Camped at ~9500' left of the turtle. Snow conditions were awful for the approach, post holed to boot tops the whole way in and out; things did firm up nicely for our climb. The 11200' notch is a 20' scramble in current conditions with a ratty fixed line (maybe it'll get replaced sometime). Ice chute was snowier than I hoped, only about 50m of moderate angle ice. Strong winds the whole climb with constant winds about 45-50mph on top; we got down just as a fat lenticular settled on the summit. Really wish that shasta wasn't such a long drive, as we went down to do lib ridge, not knowing that the road was still closed at paradise...maybe if we get time off from avi gulch in the next couple weeks. Gear Notes: Screws, 2nd tool, glacier kit. Approach Notes: Bring flotation if things stay warm.
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