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Posted

Woohoo... step one to salvage the climbing season was a success :tup: Managed to get up Squamish for climbing on Fri/Sat and drinking coffee in the rain on Sunday.

 

Friday:

Burgers and Fries: Hit both of the trad 5.7's, then got redpoints on the 5.10a (gear w/ 2 bolts) and 5.10b (gear). Then putzed down the wall to the area recently cleaned of brush to climbers left, and got the bolted 10a slab :tup: :tup: Thin, fun and sustained! Had a nice time talking to Al and Ginger :wave: Then wandered down past the crag immediately below burgers and fries on our way to The Zip. On the way an arking crack below a bolted slab caught my eye so I had a go at it. Crack goes 5.9 (I think) then clipped the anchors and transitioned onto the slab. Turns out the slab is bloody thin, very sustained, and a wee bit lichen covered :noway: After a few attempts and 1 french free move I managed to get to the anchors. Later found out I climbed "This" (of This, That, and the Other Thing) at 5.11b (I assume that's without the lichen) neat but uber thin, with an interesting little lieback move up top :) Then onto the Zip (10a) Definitely deserves it's 5 stars :tup:

 

Saturday: Started off at Neat and Cool, hitting the 2 5.8's (something or other, and Corner Crack) then jumped on Flying Circus and got my redpoint :P (I had top roped the 10a, 10b, and Flying Circus last year). Surprisingly good gear the whole way with some cool climbing. Then around the corner for a go at Kangaroo Corner (11a), looks really dicey but actually takes small nuts very well. Ended up screwing up a sequence and having to hang, but fired it on the 2nd go. (Should have committed to stemming earlier.) Then it was off to Penny Lane, where a buddy led QuarryMaster (stiff 5.8) , and I jumped on Popeye and the Raven (10c, thin delicate, and of course I pitched :( not a good weekend for me getting stuff clean), then managed to rest on the 2nd go. Well bolted, and just appropriately runout, then bust left from the last bolt for one spicy move before topping out. And finally off to Penny Lane where Sprocket ticked one of his climbing goals for the year and got Penny Lane clean :tup: :tup:

 

All in all 14 pitches for me, 18 for Sprocket ! Well above my 4 pitches/day usual average :P

 

Sunday: Drinking lots of coffee and driving home in the rain.

 

Now, part two is this weekend!

Everyone cross your fingers for a dry forecast at Smith :)

Posted

Broke down our camp in Porcupine Flat campground and went over to look at Crescent Arch on Daff Dome. Thought it would be the perfect finale to our week in the Meadows, done by Fred and Kor in the Sixties. Someone was on it, though, and my partner wasn't stoked. So we moved up to Lembert Dome and did Water Crack Right, 5.8, a wierd channel like stacked soapy dishes. Then moved over to Northwest Books, 5.9 layback variation, very fun. No pictures, sorry.

Drove down to Lee Vining to gas up and stumbled into an outrageous free party with music by Blue Turtle Seduction. Crazy wild hippy dancing ensued. Bought the CD. Crashed in the RV Park.

Next day drove down to Mammoth Lakes to catch a slide show, but were a year late. Bought some cool duds on sale at Mammoth Mountain gear shop. Drove home to Seattle all night.

Posted

Given the damp forecast, we bagged our Squamish plans and sought refuge at Leavenworth:

 

Scored with toasty, mostly-dry weather. :tup:

 

The dog got sick between the seats in the truck. :tdown: (diarrhea :sick: ) :tdown: :tdown:

 

Somehow managed to not kill myself first time leading Classic Crack and Twin Cracks. :tup:

 

Spilled a thermos of hot tea down my pants. :tdown:

 

Saw a topless girl bouldering at Mad Meadows. :tup:

 

 

 

Posted

i am still not a climber. I spent the weekend in PDX and had dinner at the Melting Pot. shopped. slept in. it was nice.

 

dear god i am tired of limping.

Posted
The dog got sick between the seats in the truck. :tdown: (diarrhea :sick: ) :tdown: :tdown:

Did he give any warning like, "I[-ruff], feel like[-ruff], I'm[-ruff], going to[-ruff-ruff-ruff-gurgle-ruff], [ralph][-ruff], shit the center console mom! [ruff-ruff-SPLEETCHHH]!!"

Posted

Nope. Not a hint of warning. We had let her out to potty moments earlier, before heading into the shop to grab some supplies. It actually seeped down INSIDE of the seatbelt buckle receiver. :sick: :sick:

 

 

Posted

My weekend is briefly over. I went to Corvallis and attended 4 days of classes for arborists. I was also on site for the 2007 PNW-ISA Tree Climbing Competition. That was pretty great and the Masters Challenge event took place in a Black Walnut tree that I remember competing in for the '97 competition.

 

I'll try and post some pictures in the next day or two since I'm going to a wedding next weekend.

Posted

Our flight was delayed out of Atlanta, which made us miss our flight in Brussells. The next flight wasn't until Tuesday. Threw the pack on, threw our little girl on top of the pack and headed into town. Not a bad place to spend the weekend. We spent our days napping, getting over jet lag, seeing the sights, eating moules en frites and drinking all the good Belgium beer I could get my hands on.

Posted

Temps are starting to lower so we went sport climbing in Cuenca, a really nice place a couple hours from Madrid. After only climbing alpine in the Pryennes for the past couple months, getting back into sport climbing was a little hard. Had a good couple of onsites and redpoints and found a couple good projects for this coming winter. Revisited my favorite pastry shop in the world and ate plenty of chocolate goodies. Hung out the small village where a bunch of us are renting a house as a base camp for sport climbing in Cuenca this winter.

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