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billcoe

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About billcoe

  • Rank
    Spray Master
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  • Occupation
    Fastener Bitch
  • Location
    pdx
  1. current song in your head

    I've had Graham Bonnet of Rainbow "Since You've Been Gone" rolling around for a while now.
  2. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Badass ascent, and the writing is very well done as well. Good job all around. Damn, cut me right off. Was going to mention that I remember when Marc-Andre was a dumb young (was he 14 when he first posted here) hugely overenthusiastic snotnose kid showing up on this very site annoying all of the old fucks here. Then bam, world class. Seen it a couple times. No way I'm gonna discourage a young person, what the hell do I know. Seriously, good job getting out and getting it done!
  3. current song in your head

    Benny and the Jets. Mostly as it's playing at this moment and Ivan would sing it over and over when we were out playing at Tower rock when we were doing that. BENNNNYYYYY!!! BENNNNYYYYY!!! BENNNNYYYYYYYY and the jeeeeeetttts !!! DA DUM, DA DUM.
  4. Vibram XS Edge vs. Stealth Rubber

    THREAD REVIVAL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Damn, lots of super strong climbers posted up there in 2013. Rudys son Drew must be on the (now delayed) Olympic team if not injured? Hey Rudy, (RUMR) wondering what rubber your boy is climbing on? Since your post upthread yer boy has become a top climber in the US. (if winning comps is a thing https://drewruana.com/). But I know he's climbed outside so that counts, even if sponsored. Anyway, with the virus, I figure its a good time to support the resolers who will need the work. Not that my 6 pairs of trash I rounded up and I'm about to send out will keep anyone's lights on for long but they can use the work. I did a search and wham, this old thread popped up. Stealth isn't getting out to them these days since Adidas bought 5.10. Vibram XS Grip for the win?
  5. Beacon

    Went out with Ryan O, new proud papa of a little boy, today. Bluebird weather and had the place to ourselves for a corner lap. Damp in a few spots P1 and P3 mostly, but the ramp was 100% dry and warm. Classic finish c to c nothing to write home about, maybe 1:45-1:50 or so. Ryan saw a couple does walking down the tracks (crunch crunch crunch "how did you not hear them?") Osprey, Eagle and Peregrines at work. No one saw any new bolts on Starmaster although we stared and squinted hard they did not materialize. Ryan asked me if it would be appropriate to wrap up/coil the end of the shit rope left on the route laying in the dirt and I was affirmative on that as the weight of a coil hanging reduces the swinging back and forth movement (which was happening in the wind) which will quickly core shot a line as it rubs back and forth....back and forth...back and forth, and it will also reduce the likelihood of critters nibbling the end. Blame me if offended. DECEMBER 9TH BROTHERS!
  6. So much climbing news this week

    We came seeking truth, good Romans and soldiers, believing in jus militiae we traveled those long distances to far away lands for a few denarius, challenges and the companionship. At first, our brothers lauded our deeds and feats. They sang of our stout hearts and daring. The daring became routine, and unable to outdo each feat - the freeborn citizens became blase if such could be believed. The Patricians still cheered....but much quieter. In later years, they turned from us, as if we did not exist. But having existed on a higher plane, they wished to pull us down. Yet still we journeyed to those far away lands. We did not do it for them before, we did not need their appropriation and cheers to yet do so. Soon will be the clash of the low gravity and the dragon, rare as the Dragons are today. In olden days they existed everywhere, now there are few, and the memory of them declines as honest citizens doubt they existed at all. Exist they did and do my brothers. If my silence comes, then know thee that the dragon yet lives. I leave you with this and with that. For the job must fall to those who can slay it. We can do nothing else, for we are what we are, no amount of apologies changes it.
  7. Beacon

    Well thanks...glad you climbed dry. Was worried a tad. Now, don't think I'm trying to mother hen you and such, but my spincter tightens up when I read out these waterfall/get a full on shower laps folks do on occasion. I did that once at another state/another location with Ujahn and it didn't seem unreasonable even when I got way off route doing a new variation on the 3rd or 4th pitch and didn't get a piece in for a long, long time: but we were roped up. Anyway, what I realized then is that you can peer right over the hill and see what is coming your way weatherwise. Every time. Noha weather has a live radar that susses out the depth of water/moisture in the air. If you know it's raining in Camas, checking in twice and simply noting the time and location differential of the incoming weather will tell you if you have time to finish a lap or if you need to bring a bar of soap to get clean in the forthcoming shower:-) No need to get wet. https://radar.weather.gov/radar.php?rid=rtx&product=N0R&overlay=11101111&loop=no
  8. Beacon

    Ryan and I topped out, yelped for you but not seeing, headed down. Hit the car and headed to the ramp to scope out the Elk Herd on the island. They were gone by then so we binoced the rock looking for you. Not seeing you, figured you'd topped out. Unraveled the rope on the lifebouy so it could be tossed and just like that it started raining. We were grateful for the 2 laps we got, and also the heads up from you that the rain was coming along. I'm getting a cardio workout on these laps:-) Car to Car @ 1-1/2 hours approx.
  9. Beacon

    Wow! A brilliant and erudite analysis Rad. I was checking in to see where the man was yesterday, Ujahn, Ryan and I had it to ourselves all day.
  10. Love the writing but your photos... Look pissed off to me. Is that some dude you're climbing with? Looks like dudes body is gone....
  11. Beacon

    HAHAHA !!!!! Lord thank you for the entertainment. May the Octomama of all laps soon be in your future. BTW, your hook is/was with Adam, hopefully you got it the other day.
  12. Beacon

    The rain having turned off, Ujahn and I decide to do a lap. Hit the parking lot @ 1:45pm and meet a couple finishing up who were Beacon first timers. Fella had left a back off nut on Crusin, Ujahn says: "I'll go get it for you and bring it right back." "Nah, it's booty. " "But I can run down and fetch it right off for you." "Nah, we are leaving, it's yours". So we did. Another nice couple let us pass at the traverse, we stopped at Uprising belay for beer slowing the car to car to a leisurely 1-3/4 hours and only minor knee pain. At the bottom in the parking lot, waiting for Ivan to show so I can return his non-booty dropped off Tower Rock hook we'd fished out of the talus, I send Ivan a photo of my car in the lot with his hook hanging off the rear view mirror to emphasis the point and speed him up if such is possible. Sitting on the park bench sipping suds, Adam and Timetraverl show up looking like they mean business. I offload Ivans hook to a very gracious Adam, my temporary possession of said hook only slightly marred by being too drunk earlier and deciding to assist in laying some identity pipe for Ivan: engraved and wrote his name all over the thing. Didn't seem like such a fine idea once I sobered up to debase another mans property, however, should it be dropped again, everyone will instantly knows who's property it is. Regardless, my charge is now Adams Albatross.
  13. Beacon

    3 points: 1st) What saved the hook was that although we had searched for that hook extensively before firing up Tower (P3 and down, not the top), was when we headed down we saw some trash. Wandering towards the shiny trash off in the distance, Adam spy's it on the ground. We rounded up all the trash we could find and your hook was collected because of that. When Adam showed up in the am, I was all flustered as he wasn't committed to a single Beacon route but was tossing out a bunch of classics and I was thinking I needed to bring gear to supplement his rack. I knew I wanted to bring it incase we bumped into each other but I walked right past your hook and it's still there. I can put your name on it but it will get back eventually. As an aside, the Pikas are starting to come out. 2nd) To the person who told me that the rap off Blownout will miss the poison oak, I beg to disagree. 3rd) A mix up this am led to us having only 9 draws for Monte Cristo Slab. A quick call to Denali Dave who lived close to on the way and he spotted us 10 more and sent us along with a cooler of super greens to boot! It was perfect. The hot weather of yesterday and today (these plus 90 degree days take it out of you) made for an early finish. We dropped them on Daves porch on the way back. As we are driving back, baked stupid by the sun, Adam notes: Doh!, we should have put a 6 pack in that empty cooler". Right he was, Dave, the beers on me man, thanks again!! Adam flys home Saturday, he's climbing with Timetraver tomorrow and I get a much needed rest day.
  14. Yosemite - Wide Tour

    Arches/Crest jewel. This is the last pitch of CJ? Ujahn and I did campsite to campsite (ND Gully descent) in 8 hours. Rode bikes over to Arches base from N. Pines.
  15. Beacon

    ^^^^and like slow old people Ujahn and I finally got out there yesterday, finished cleaning it off and tossed too many bolts in it for a sweet 5.9 line. Jeff Thomas and I started cleaning off the top part of this @ 1-1/2 years ago and then he got hurt. I kept cleaning until I went to Red Rocks and hurt my knee. My knees been to shit for that long. He's still on the injured list but when I asked him he said: "just get it over with and end this endless pain before they plant ya in the dirt"...or some such. LOL. Saw Timetravelr up there in the weekday clouds and heat doing the lords work as well. Thinking a good name is Climbswell butterflakes. It's essentially the first pitch of Garden Party et al.
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