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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Love the writing but your photos... Look pissed off to me. Is that some dude you're climbing with? Looks like dudes body is gone....
  2. Beacon

    HAHAHA !!!!! Lord thank you for the entertainment. May the Octomama of all laps soon be in your future. BTW, your hook is/was with Adam, hopefully you got it the other day.
  3. Beacon

    The rain having turned off, Ujahn and I decide to do a lap. Hit the parking lot @ 1:45pm and meet a couple finishing up who were Beacon first timers. Fella had left a back off nut on Crusin, Ujahn says: "I'll go get it for you and bring it right back." "Nah, it's booty. " "But I can run down and fetch it right off for you." "Nah, we are leaving, it's yours". So we did. Another nice couple let us pass at the traverse, we stopped at Uprising belay for beer slowing the car to car to a leisurely 1-3/4 hours and only minor knee pain. At the bottom in the parking lot, waiting for Ivan to show so I can return his non-booty dropped off Tower Rock hook we'd fished out of the talus, I send Ivan a photo of my car in the lot with his hook hanging off the rear view mirror to emphasis the point and speed him up if such is possible. Sitting on the park bench sipping suds, Adam and Timetraverl show up looking like they mean business. I offload Ivans hook to a very gracious Adam, my temporary possession of said hook only slightly marred by being too drunk earlier and deciding to assist in laying some identity pipe for Ivan: engraved and wrote his name all over the thing. Didn't seem like such a fine idea once I sobered up to debase another mans property, however, should it be dropped again, everyone will instantly knows who's property it is. Regardless, my charge is now Adams Albatross.
  4. Beacon

    3 points: 1st) What saved the hook was that although we had searched for that hook extensively before firing up Tower (P3 and down, not the top), was when we headed down we saw some trash. Wandering towards the shiny trash off in the distance, Adam spy's it on the ground. We rounded up all the trash we could find and your hook was collected because of that. When Adam showed up in the am, I was all flustered as he wasn't committed to a single Beacon route but was tossing out a bunch of classics and I was thinking I needed to bring gear to supplement his rack. I knew I wanted to bring it incase we bumped into each other but I walked right past your hook and it's still there. I can put your name on it but it will get back eventually. As an aside, the Pikas are starting to come out. 2nd) To the person who told me that the rap off Blownout will miss the poison oak, I beg to disagree. 3rd) A mix up this am led to us having only 9 draws for Monte Cristo Slab. A quick call to Denali Dave who lived close to on the way and he spotted us 10 more and sent us along with a cooler of super greens to boot! It was perfect. The hot weather of yesterday and today (these plus 90 degree days take it out of you) made for an early finish. We dropped them on Daves porch on the way back. As we are driving back, baked stupid by the sun, Adam notes: Doh!, we should have put a 6 pack in that empty cooler". Right he was, Dave, the beers on me man, thanks again!! Adam flys home Saturday, he's climbing with Timetraver tomorrow and I get a much needed rest day.
  5. Yosemite - Wide Tour

    Arches/Crest jewel. This is the last pitch of CJ? Ujahn and I did campsite to campsite (ND Gully descent) in 8 hours. Rode bikes over to Arches base from N. Pines.
  6. Beacon

    ^^^^and like slow old people Ujahn and I finally got out there yesterday, finished cleaning it off and tossed too many bolts in it for a sweet 5.9 line. Jeff Thomas and I started cleaning off the top part of this @ 1-1/2 years ago and then he got hurt. I kept cleaning until I went to Red Rocks and hurt my knee. My knees been to shit for that long. He's still on the injured list but when I asked him he said: "just get it over with and end this endless pain before they plant ya in the dirt"...or some such. LOL. Saw Timetravelr up there in the weekday clouds and heat doing the lords work as well. Thinking a good name is Climbswell butterflakes. It's essentially the first pitch of Garden Party et al.
  7. Ondra at Smith

    G-spotters posts makes me wonder if Ondra did "RUDE BOYS" as well.
  8. Beacon

    Haha! Good man, we all need more ropes but nobody comes close to my crapload. But whats the story with the anchor rap ropes? Is that the rope you've left on Hollow Victories occasionally so you can do laps? Sounds like you can't leave a rope there without it getting molested. Share the story Joe. Here's mine recent rope story. My story is that I left a rope on the West side of Beacon to clean a new line, Plaidman showed up and hung another rope on the same anchor to help do the thing. I went to Red Rocks with Adam, Amy Ujahn and Tara, and somewhere up one of those canyons tore the crap out of my knee. It almost healed enough for me to go out 3 times, but everytime whanyg! ripped it up again. Left my rope out there much too long, lack of communication with Plaid I only realized when I go out there he's pulled his rope and abandoned the thing. After a year and a half (mea culpa mea cupla sorry all won't happen again) Ujahn drags me out there for an outing and we rap in from the trail and see my static surprisingly coiled up all nice and hanging at the rap station that designates the start of Hazy Daze and those routes. Someone had left another rope at the base just on the ground, which we left there as it was.
  9. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    Badassery John! Great work you 2. I'm with Stefan, "let's get a climb in this weekend, yawn, did Mooses Tooth, went to work Monday..." LOL.
  10. Beacon

    You're slackin off again it appears to me Healy. (Insert joephoto here) ..and anyway, them lil trees had it coming. Not sure which ones you're referring too, but they're all guilty as sin. ...must have missed a few:-) (Hamni Meyers pic) ..And now, back to our regularly scheduled Ivanathon. Hey Ivan, thanks for the read. Sounds like they were filming a Breaking Bad redux up there at Cape Horn. To bad they couldn't have scheduled that RV fire with the Corn on the Cob Truck crash and made proper Lemons out of Lemonade. I was trying to get Ujahn to stop so I could glean some of that corn for dinner but he didn't believe that would have been legal and he also wanted to get his drink on. I made believe that it was but lowly field corn and thus not worthy and off to Skamania Lodge we rolled.
  11. Beacon

    I recall clipping one of the newer off route bolts the left of P4 Young Warriors YW last year (maybe the year before that?). They're not new. (brand new but they were added not long back) It was very confusing and screwed up YW for me. I asked around and heard that folks had retro (added) bolts to an old Wayne Wallace route that peels off of P3 of the Corner (to the right, near exactly in the middle). I figured Jim or some other crusty would chop them, but will note that once I pulled my head out of my ass...no small feat thank you very much, and did the line without clipping them, staying to the right where God intended, it made the route much more enjoyable. Pitty the fools that head over and clip them. I take it that was you this go round? On that subject, I heard it was Kevin E owned up and chopped his own baloney add on bolt at the top of the Corner (traditional finish), maybe you can both thank him nicely, and show him how it's suppose to be done: he totally cucked up the rock (if that was him). Not that I'm bitching, OK, maybe a bit - but I've seen your work and it's like you fix Swiss watches in your free time it's so good. That's all I know....not much... as usual. :-) Now that the rains have returned it's time for a good winter Beacon argument to get started again.
  12. Beacon

    Wasn't me this time.
  13. Beacon

    Picking up the slack for Ivan. Last week U and I did the Car to car in 1 hour I didn't post it up. This weeks go round (yesterday) Ujahn, JT and I did a leisurely corner lap. Played hooky from work and we parked at 2:45pm. There were a couple of kids just hitting the Tree on P 2 as we hiked to the base and we caught the 2nd where the Uprising diverges from the regular route. We did Uprising to not crowd the kids and car to car time was 3 hours. Ground was wet, but the only wet crack was P 3 at the start of it where the 1st piece goes. Fantastic day, fantastic company. Jeff Thomas.
  14. Got invited out to a new area today. As we were discussing it, buddy noted that "it was in the guidebook". Sure as heck, there is a new guidebook and the area, Monte Cristo Slab, has 60 routes in it. Did some trail work, followed a few routes when Ivan and both Silvermans were smart enough to bring a rope and draws and also nice enough to let me tie in. The area has only bolts, plenty of them and they're in the right place. You can walk off or do multiple raps off, the slab is @250 feet tall. I suspect it's going to be insanely popular, despite being up past Willard, Wa. This is a granitic type rock (diorite) that will hone your mid-range grades before you head to the Valley. Good stuff. The cover shot is of the area. (copied from Powell's link) Here's the link to buy the book. Jason (new dude I just met) had a copy, and I was able to peruse it. Saw that Hunchback is finally outed in a the guidebook too! That an plenty of bouldering areas. http://www.powells.com/book/-9780999723302
  15. Not just dad friendly, but kid friendly as well. These guys bolted up one of the low angle slabs that most of us would think class4, just for kids. There's no cliff below they would fall off either, so even little kids could hang out. Some might find such a thing ridiculous or something we should ridicule, but if you consider little kids as the intended recipients, then it's an awesome thing. Dayum Ivan, great shots! The 3 main weakness of the place is that the routes are all pretty close to the same, slab. Next is that it's not a consistent angle like glacier point, but lays back and gets too easy in lots of places. 3rd, the base needs work, so bring a saw and a Pulaski to help make it flat. Still, great place for a canckle workout and a fun days outing. Get a book and get it now while it's still relatively unknown and uncrowded. They did a good job cleaning it all off, and we didn't wear helmets, Ivan, Geoff and Kyle had them but as you can see they were back on the ground. But if it gets crowded, there are still a few loose rocks here or there that a rope could easily kick off, worth bringing one and using it.
  16. https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/102119-new-climbing-area-monte-cristo-slab-and-new-guidebook/ I put this in Columbia River Gorge area, but its rightfully SW Washington. So just a heads up/FYI thing.
  17. Bravo! Good work and a good time appeared to be had by all.
  18. Waynes Greatest Hits WA Pass Edition

    Wayne rules, I'd be there with my gimpy knee but live too far away. BUMP! PS, IN OTHER NEWZ, CC GOTS A CALENDER? ! WOOT, MOVIN' UP ! Opps, capslock thing. again
  19. Beacon Rock Stories

    You've been gone too long DH, heads up and spread the word that Joes been upgraded to "above average" decent person now and not to be F**ed with as in the past, since @ 3 weeks ago. Anyway, to Kenny's family, I didn't really know him, but I know how tough it can be, and wish you well. I'll touch base with a few folks who might not read it here that may have been buddies and let them know. FYI in case you don't know the climber trail to the S face is closed currently, something Kenny would have stepped right over, kicked down or at least taken a moment to piss on if he was here, but let folks know where you want to meet up, maybe in the parking lot and head up to the trial right where the SE Corner tops out, - hopefully you have good weather.
  20. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I apologize and mean no disrespect. It's tough, as we all know, nothing I say will change any of that. There are a lot of nuances which we miss in making bold declarative statements, it's harder to type it than say it. I'll bow out now with that final note.
  21. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    OK, that was me that toss you in there. LUCK you say? LUCK? Pfft. Jens it looks like I'll have to take your name off and sub in Reinhold Messner......(kidding). Not all luck. I will note that Messner noted that if you drill the correct procedures into your own head so many times that when you are exhausted and out of it and the shit has hit the fan (my summation), you still do the correct thing on autopilot that will still get you out alive. That is what luck can be for some and that luck pulled his fat out of the fire many many times. That said, I know luck played a big role in Messners life, as the well known story of Reinhold Messner and his late brother Gunner will attest to. The pain of losing Gunner was crushing for him no question. I think we all choose where we want our own risk level to be. It certainly changes over time, but for some, it is much higher, and those of us still on the ground cradling our children watching others fly to new heights are shocked, impressed, astounded, upset, and a whole bunch of other things as well. It is about choices. No doubt. In this instance, I suspect that they chose to go light and fast. If so, they were out of fuel and thus water days ago and a happy ending isn't to be I'm sorry to say. I hope I wrong and if that were my kid I'd be all over that area trying to get rescue personal in there...... Now, what was Bob saying again? Oh, Polish folks. Amazing. Slovakians and Russians at times as well. Here's something worth reading as well https://marcleclerc.blogspot.com/ I got to cook some rice up for dinner now. Take care all, and may they both found before the rice finishes.
  22. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Didn't seem that long ago Marc Leclerc was a snot nosed kid posting on CC.com getting harassed by some of you old nose pickers. He turned into a bad ass pretty quick, certainly enough to know and accept the risks he took. There is still a decent chance they walk out of this one too, and I know we all wish them the best. I'm not sure "applauding" the risks is the way I'd say it, more like impressed by the risks and beating the odds. Off White has it well said about Donini above, (" it does seem that objective hazards can only be somewhat ameliorated by skill and experience. "), but then you have guys like Uli Steck who had otherworldly skill and strength and it still didn't work out. We all know if you choose to live the high risk game you play by different stakes. Big mountains, big stakes. I think you can be a badass and mitigate the risks somewhat. Look at Mikey, Blake Herrington, Jens, T. Caldwell... lots of folks.... ...maybe we're all on the same page but need a campfire, some drinks and part of an evening to get the whole thing out on the table.
  23. wamest jacket on earth

    I do. Mar 2nd 2018, he said: " Never forget the wamest jacket on earth is the one having the most fun ". Annnnd you're welcome Oly:-)
  24. fixed line cut by psycho; i coulda died

    Remembering this tale was causing my palms to start sweating again, in revisiting it I see that I'd totally missed or forgotten Ivans comment 8 years back.
  25. Beacon

    HOLY SHITE MUSLIM! Bold shite man, bold. I made it to the parking lot @ 11am thinking some cleaning and jugging might do the trick. Stepped out of the car thinking I'd be pleased to not have the car door ripped off it's hinges in the hurricane, made it to the restroom and back. A brief reflection of the wind knocking rocks off of Tower Rock with a trip you were on, coupled with another, generally more careful climber getting whacked unconscious by said rock where I wanted to go play gave me pause for reconsideration. Successfully opened the car door again and came home where it was still a balmy 43 degrees and no wind. Only thing of interest and suspicion was the park ranger truck and 2 BSNF "Police" vehicles parked in the climbers area.