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Everything posted by kurthicks

  1. BD Ascension 95mm for $81.85 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/base_no.71593/dept_id.L2~3074/qx/product.htm other skis/skins on sale there too.
  2. Shuksan North face bushwhack recommendations

    There is a climbers trail through part of your purple line. Walk to the end of the road, near some old logging equipment, and dive straight downhill into the big trees. Cross the creek and veer up and right. Look at the satellite image for big trees, then the meadows once you gain the ridge. It's not that bad by Cascade standards.
  3. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    I think that's Calvin Klimb
  4. Mixed at Mt. Baker?

    Time flies, doesn't it. Glad that you're making it happen out there!
  5. I don't know if anyone has guided it yet, but only a couple businesses hold permits in the Middle Fork. I don't mind the tree pulling either, but it certainly does detract from the route IMO. The route is a scorcher too -- definitely one to best do on a cloudy day or super early in the morning. Thanks for the kind words; glad you're enjoying the book!
  6. Glad folks are getting on this. A few notes: Yes, there is an error in the rack description. A single set to 2-3" is sufficient for most leaders. The old bolt down low on the route was deliberately placed by the FA team as a bit of a joke. The pitch 7 corner-to-tree pitch didn't exit right onto the slab since that slab is an exfoliating piece. There is talk of trimming the branches and perhaps adding a short fixed rope instead.
  7. Hey CC.com! I'm proud to announce the release of Snoqualmie Rock. After 5 years of research, writing, and review, this comprehensive guidebook for the I-90 corridor is finally complete. It covers well over 700 routes from Issaquah to Snoqualmie Pass at over 60 crags. You'll find it in stores this June, but you can pre-order your own copy now at www.snoqualmierock.com See you all at the crags!
  8. Snoqualmie Rock guidebook release

    I guided a trip last year in the Ruth Gorge for The North Face. Alex was there and we spent some camp time talking about climbing in Washington--he's been out to our crags and said he'd definitely be here again. So I got in touch and had him review the book. He's super nice and it was great to connect about our local terrain!
  9. It has been 7 years since the last update to the Exit 38/32 books. With Garth's support, I am working on a new, comprehensive edition that should be out around next December (maybe sooner). It's time now to add in all of the new lines that have gone up in the last seven years (or any climb that went unrecorded previously). I'll put out a request for photos sometime in the future. So right now, I'm looking for this beta from anywhere in the North Bend area (32,38, rattlesnake, fun forest, etc): --new walls --new routes --unrecorded first ascent information Send me an email or PM with your beta. Thanks! kurthicksATgmail.com
  10. Upcoming Snoqualmie Valley Rock Guidebook

    The Snoqualmie Rock guidebook is now available for pre-order. Visit www.snoqualmierock.com for more information.
  11. wanted to buy Looking for haul bags.

    I have a big Fish haul bag that I'd let go for $60. I think it's the Grade V. Old, but in good shape.
  12. Pics / Beta on North Ridge of Stuart

    Friends climbed the full ridge 2 days ago. Snow on the slab pitch and in the notch above the Gendarme. Steep snow on the descent by the False Summit.
  13. Mt Baker - North Ridge Questions

    FYI: The North Ridge is often climbed into September, when it's iciest. Personally, I'd give it a month for things to consolidate and melt off a bit before going up there. Otherwise it's a whole lot of slogging for about a rope length of ice climbing...
  14. need info on a route in exit 38

    If you're up to the grade, just go give it a look! I'd hate to spoil your onsight!
  15. need info on a route in exit 38

    The pitch directly above "I Wanna Go Home" is called "Sleep or Awake" 5.10c, 7 bolts, 50 feet. The single biner is a bail biner...the route goes to the top. There is also a route further right on the headwall, "I Can Fly" 5.11c, 7 bolts. And the new book is coming very soon!
  16. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Park at Summit West, cross under the overpass, and ski down the closed Sunset Highway. 10 minutes easy downhill!
  17. Triple Couloirs, Alpine Ice, or something fun

    Bony. We passed on it today. Good climbing shape though!
  18. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    just came back from Snoqualmie Pass. Basically everything is still in: Kiddie Cliff, Bryant Buttress, Rap Fall, Chockstone Falls, etc. No word on Franklin Falls. There is about a foot of new snow over a very stout rain crust, making travel relatively easy.
  19. Trip: Middle Fork, Peak 3964 - False Idol, WI3+, 500m (FA) Date: 1/6/2017 Trip Report: On January 6, 2017, at the end of a prolonged cold snap, I established a long waterfall ice route on the NE face of Peak 3964 in the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River valley with Dave Jordan. Our route climbs two tiers of ice, separated by a few rope lengths of snow covered waterice and snice. The first 200 meters is classic waterfall ice climbing, while the upper bits have more thoughtful protection akin to our local alpine climbing. All told, it is reminiscent of Guinness Gully in the Canadian Rockies. We found the route to be very worthwhile and not overly committing--given the bountiful rappel trees on both sides of the route. Peak 3964 (left) and Revelation Peak (right). The route climbs the right side of the Y-shaped clearing. False Idol The route from the approach Dave on the 90 meter WI3 second step (pitches 3-4). Parties interested in making this an alpine adventure can continue for another couple rope lengths and attain the summit. There is an easy gully on the SW side of the peak that could likely be used to skip the copious tree rappels down the route. The route is named in keeping with the biblical theme of the area. False Idol WI3+, 500m FA: Kurt Hicks, Dave Jordan 6 January, 2017 Approach map: Gear Notes: 10-14 ice screws, 2 ropes to rappel. No rock gear currently needed. Approach Notes: Park at the Middle Fork Snoqualmie trailhead. Cross the river and turn right onto the Pratt Connector Trail. Follow this downstream for about 30 minutes until at the bottom of a long set of descending stairs (near a large outcrop with a mini cave in it). Turn left off the trail and ascend steeply up a gully. Continue generally up and slightly left through open woods. Stay to the right of a decent sized flowing creek and gain some large old growth trees. We continued up a short snowy talus field before moving right onto a treed rib and up to the base of the route. If you're bushwhacking, you're blowing the approach. 1.5 hours from the car. Descent was made via rappels from trees on the climber's right side of the climb. Two ropes are recommended, though we did an endless series of single rope raps since we only brought one cord.
  20. Thanks Jake. We skipped the direct approach since it didn't look like there was enough ice on it to make it go. Glad to know it worked for you!
  21. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    I did this thing yesterday: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1153020/TR_Middle_Fork_Peak_3964_False#Post1153020 Too bad the warm up is coming on Monday!
  22. question Sun hoodies... who makes them?

    I'm pretty fond of travel shirts from Coolibar--lots of colors, light fabric, breathable. Lots of folks also like the Columbia one too. The OR Ensenada is very warm, too warm for daily use in my opinion.
  23. Strava vs Gaia vs ? + device

    It's a rechargeable battery, so it depends on the accuracy setting - from 8 to 24 hours of tracking at 1 sec, 10 sec, or 1 minute intervals. It's plenty for most 2-3 day trips in the Cascades.
  24. Strava vs Gaia vs ? + device

    1a) For trip planning: Avanet (export .gpx to phone), then Caltopo for custom .pdf maps. 1b) on my phone: Gaia, Avenza PDF Maps 1c) on my computer: Strava (for running only) 2) Suunto Ambit 2R with GPS tracking. I download the saved tracks from my watch to computer, then sync with phone for the next trip.
  25. Kautz / Fuhrer Finger Conditions? Lower Nisqually?

    I tend to go up via the Wilson, rather than the Fan. That said, the Fan has't been subjected to very much rockfall yet given the recent snows...that will change as it warms up and melts out more. If I had the choice, I would approach via Comet Falls all the time. It's nice to approach via a different route and see new terrain.