Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Otto last won the day on February 3

Otto had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Otto

  • Rank
    addicted to cc.com
  • Birthday 11/30/1999


  • Occupation
    systems analyst
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. Thanks for the excellent report and photos! Solo on loose rock, impressive.
  2. Big Tree 1 gets some love

    After looking more closely at the available topos and guidebook, I realized that pitch 5 is part of Big Tree 2000. In Weekend Rock, David Whitelaw clearly shows it so on his topo, and includes it in the text description of Big Tree 2000.
  3. The tat loaded on the anchor of pitch 3 has been removed, replaced with SS chains and rings. This is the higher of the two anchors, up and right of the dihedral containing most of the pitch. Sorry I didn't take a photo of the new steel. Also, the pitch above the Big Tree has received new bolts, 3/8" SS of course, with Mad Rock hangers. No pictures of them either, sorry. Two weeks ago I looked over at this pitch 5 after reaching the nearby top anchor of Shake, Rattle and Roll. I could not believe seeing a beautiful slab with Leeper hangers still on it. And a couple of SMC hangers, all on quarter-inch rusty bolts. Doesn't anyone go up there? So the next week I returned with Robin who sat patiently while I drilled out four of them. There were more to do, so I returned yesterday via rope solo to get the last one out. While I was there, I tested my new uAscend and Microtraxion to top-rope the pitch (worked great, and safely!) and found it to be delightful, knobby climbing. It seemed to have some 5.9 at the start, and eases to 5.8 the rest of the way for a good 55m pitch. Thanks DavidW and MattP for putting this up.
  4. I went out for a bike ride and found some good person with a big saw has taken out the big fir from the Squire Creek road! Many thanks to the unknown logger.
  5. Thanks for the report, tanstaafl, this must be done soon. And the thread includes a topo, cool!
  6. Nice slab-climbing photo! Two seconds on belay at once, love it.
  7. chucK has passed away

    Kaleetan Peak, July 7, 2019 Chuck's Line, one pitch, 5.7, 1x The last outing I did with Chuck Spiekerman was a visit to Kaleetan Peak on 7/22/2019. He had been working on me to get away from Darrington, and sold me on this unclimbed 600-foot West Face. The only problem was the four-hour approach hike. But since I'd been doing that nearly every summer weekend for the last several years, I agreed to help. Chuck had done the research, scoping the face on an earlier solo trip up the North Ridge. He'd returned to work out the approach from Melakwa Lake and the best place to leave the climbers' track to contour around to the west side. He'd found the "magic gully" that leads down from the south shoulder to the west face smoothly. Now he'd invited me to join him on a rock climb of discovery on the west face itself. I was skeptical that there could be a good, unclimbed cliff in a busy, popular hiking area. At the same time, I was skeptical of all the work to hump in the required gear. Surely these two factors opposed themselves and would cancel out! So I agreed, and we'd have the place to ourselves for a day. We brought two 60m ropes, a single rack with wires and cams to 3", my bolt kit with 3 bolts and hangers, drill and hammer, and no bivy gear. It is in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, so no power drills are allowed. We would have to allow four hours of hiking time to get back to Denny Creek trailhead, and set our turn-around time. I didn't want to hike out in the dark. Being on a strict timeline, I didn't stop for photos much. Wanting to document the wall itself, I took shots of the cliff but not of Chuck leading out. He drilled his first ever bolt on lead, protecting a steep short wall on a limestone patch. It only took him about 8 minutes to drill. The climbing on the limestone patches was phenomenal: sharp, sticky, and fun. Then he got in another bolt at the belay anchor, which is in quartzite, or perhaps andesite, much harder, and it took 20 minutes. It's a "pre-Tertiary melange" up there! He brought me up, and I drilled the second anchor bolt. Agreeing to go up and left toward a big tree for Pitch 2 next time, we rapped off. It was late afternoon and time to get out of there. On the talus on the way out I took these three photos of Chuck. Rest in peace, my friend. There is gravel strewn over every ledge and hold, but the rock is sound. We didn't experience any loose rock or rockfall. The talus slope at the base is very loose and littered with bright, white quartz rhomboids. It is a wide wall; there are doubtless better places to start. Indeed, there is a good crack in a left-facing corner directly below our line that could be used as a more direct start at a higher grade. For our continuation, we were going to angle left to the big tree aimed at by the arrow in the annotated photo. We spoke of staying in the light-grey limestone as much as possible, as the climbing there is excellent. If someone hankers for an adventure route, feel free to use Chuck's Line as a first pitch and go from there.
  8. How do we add photos to an article?

    OK so I got the local photo upload figured out. At first, it didn't seem like making an "attachment" was what I wanted, but now I do. Thank you! I haven't had any success linking to photos on Drive. Does anyone have the specifics on doing this? Thanks again, Bill
  9. I figured out the local photo upload. One of the alders: The other one: The remaining big tree and the bike. This is just below the first culvert crossing. I hope someone with a big chainsaw comes up! Here's to next year, huzzah!
  10. How do we add photos to an article?

    Thanks, JasonG. I would like to do this, but I can't find a menu item or button to upload to cc.com. Can you please describe where it is? I use the Chrome browser if that matters. There used to be a Main menu item for "Gallery" but no more. Where to start? Bill
  11. 1) I gather there is no longer a Gallery. I'm guessing we have to use a photo-hosting site like photobucket.com or something. What are people doing to get photos onto cc.com? 2) I use Google Drive for some things. Does anyone know if it is possible, in a post, to link to photos stored in there? If so, can you point me to, or post, some sample code? I have some trip reports for new routes, with photos, that I'd like to post soon. Any help on posting photos will be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Enger
  12. I was surprised that two alder logs lay across the Squire Creek Trail #654 all summer long. They interfered with my bike ride. So on Thursday, 9/12, I brought up my old Boy Scout hatchet. After the cut, I dragged them off the road. Sadly, a big hemlock log remains, bigger than the hatchet could handle in a day! As tall as my bike frame, it has been there for two summers. I have some nice photos of this, but I can no longer upload photos here. I'm asking about that in the "cc.com news" forum. Bill Enger
  13. Don't forget the Boulder River Wilderness, home of some long alpine slab routes in the Darrington area.
  14. OK, thanks anyway. Yes, I chatted with the company and found out about what the "Ice clipper" loops are for. They do sell a hammer holster that I would have bought and added to your harness - but I'm too slow putting this together! Anyway, I found out about a nice product; maybe I'll pay full retail for a new one...
  15. I followed the link and read about the harness; it seems like it might fill the bill for me. Question though: are the "ice clipper loops" designed to carry ice tools, or something else used in ice climbing? I'm not an ice climber, so I don't know the term. It would be really great if it could hold a rock hammer, like a Yosemite hammer. Do you know if it the "ice clipper loops" could hold a rock hammer without it slipping through? Thanks