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Otto last won the day on September 20 2021

Otto had the most liked content!

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About Otto

  • Rank
    addicted to cc.com
  • Birthday 10/02/1955


  • Occupation
    systems analyst
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. Happy Holidays and New Year

    This site is indeed still useful and often a good read. I like the many trip reports with inspiring photos. Thank you for carrying on! Bill Enger
  2. Yes, that's how we did it (not via Megalodon Ridge, however!) way back when there was a bus to drive you from Cottonwood back to Stehekin. Is there still?

    Very nice, thanks for doing this. Are you thinking of supplying the daily photo yourself, or are you inviting others to post?
  4. Beautiful photos, thanks for posting! Looks like a fine hike.
  5. New route Tooth?

    David Whitelaw and I finished this new route on August 4. Jim Nelson was in attendance to take some photos, but did not climb it with us. The route is called Indentured Servant, and is located 100+ yards left of Tooth Fairy. It's a sport route of five pitches, all bolted, like this: P1 some sustained 5.10a, 12 bolts P2 5.7, 9 bolts P3 5.8, crossing a giant chockstone, 6 bolts, P4 5.10b, reachy stemming up a V-slot, 12 bolts P5 5.9, sustained .9 face climbing for over 30', 6 bolts We built it to climb and rappel with one 60m rope. For P1 we extend two of the clips with alpine draws to avoid drag (see photo). Rappel the route until P2, then drop straight down into the deep gully where there is a final anchor. The route finishes on the North ridge, so you can traverse right and up to the summit. One could also walk off the North Ridge route. All bolts are 3/8" SS wedge bolts. Belay/rappel anchors are either SS chain w/ ring or two bolts with rings. The first person to climb it besides David and me was Ken Ford, on Aug. 12. Then David's friend Kelsey Gray from AK joined us for a couple of days of exploration, and they climbed it together on Sept. 2, while I took a rest day in camp. Then I brought up Robin Taft for an outing of Tooth Fairy the first day, and this route the next, on Sept. 12-13. Here is Ken Ford finishing P1, showing how the rope takes a nice curve if bolts 6 and 7 are extended David W. has drawn one of his beautiful topos for this, but we won't publish until next year. One doesn't need a topo to climb it, however, just find the clean toe of white rock to the left of a major gully, and follow the hangers. Bill Enger
  6. A very informative trip report, thank you. Nice work with the annotations. That is a huge amount of alpine rambling, something to look forward to!
  7. Yes, it's always cool to do that bonus pitch of Silent Running. I've led it a couple of times, it was so fun to follow you up it. But, the name, 'Road to Silent Bonus Tour'? Hmm...
  8. Indeed, thanks Curt for the Tour! Had a fun time climbing this with you and tanstaafl.
  9. Well, yes, that's a nice photo. Was it done with your RX100 or the D7100? On a tripod?
  10. [TR] Stuart Range - Stuart Range Traverse 08/30/2021

    Absolutely. A classic, self-motivated, big day out. Well done. Pardon my asking, but did you use the tag line at any point?
  11. Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

    Remove the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Turn the blade of an old hack saw 90 degrees and saw the bolt off close to the rock. Punch the stud down in the hole with a hammer. New bolts are not to be placed on old routes. Keep the hangers and make a wind chime.
  12. Congrats on some big days out! Thank you for the thoughtful writing in this report.
  13. Thanks for starting the discussion. I'm not a camera nerd, just in the market for a point-and-shoot for documentation of climbing routes. I'll check out the Sony RX100.
  14. Thank you for the excellent trip report. I'm glad your buddy found his mood once again elevated. cheers!
  15. Mighty fine photos there, Kyle. Alpine ridge climbing on Skookum looks great! Where do you find these obscure things? Thank for posting.