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Otto

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Otto last won the day on May 12

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About Otto

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    addicted to cc.com
  • Birthday 10/02/1955

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  • Occupation
    systems analyst
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. [TR] Mount Goode - Megalodon Ridge 07/19/2021

    Congratulations, that looks like it was fun. As one of the many folks who have only done the classic NE buttress route, I salute the adventurous nature of this outing.
  2. Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer Trip Date: 07/18/2021 Trip Report: On Saturday, July 17th I met Brian Young at the Shell station in Darrington for a trip up Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer on Squire Creek Wall. Glad that I'd borrowed Brian's brush cutter earlier this year, the bike ride up the old logging road was pleasant. In no hurry with only the approach to do this day, it took us 3 hours to get to camp. Then we carried our ropes and climbing gear up to the top of Pitch 1, having soloed the easy first pitch, and clipped it all to the anchor there. On Sunday the 18th we awoke at 4:30, first light, and departed after breakfast. At first we worried about the pack weight for the second, as it contained four full water bottles, all drilling gear, a chain anchor, and six bolts with hangers. We even discussed fixing each pitch and the second doing them on jumars. Instead, I tried climbing with it, and not one complaint was aired all day. We climbed rapidly and were at the Bubba Compactor at 7:30am! Brian took Pitch 2, which had me worried, but he cruised it and every even-numbered pitch thereafter. I followed Pitch 10 with no problem with the pack, it was even fun! I noted the piton was still there on Pitch 11; this point didn't seem as scary as on the FA. On Pitch 14 Brian yelled that this was the scariest pitch of the whole route! We noted that a bolt or two would be good on the sandy slabs there. We reached the summit at 2:00. I quickly made ready for drilling the list of fixups, which included: 1) Installing a chain anchor on the summit 2) Adding two bolts to Pitch 14 3) Replacing the piton on Pitch 11 with a bolt 4) Replacing the two quarter-inch buttonheads on Pitch 10 with fat bolts I drilled the summit anchor, and we descended. On the pitches with drilling tasks, we fixed the lead rope and I rapped down it, got on jumars, did the work, and rapped to the next anchor. Then Brian unfixed the rope and rapped both ropes normally. It all got done smoothly but took time and we knew we would be hiking out partly by headlamp. As it turned out, we crossed Squire Creek in the last of the dusky light. We dried off our feet, donned headlamps, hiked and biked down to the trailhead, and reached the cars at around 11:00. The C-shaped route On Pitch 11, with the "inverted prow" on the left Brian taking the summit shot Drilling the top anchor 20210719_002635000_iOS.MOV (an experiment to include a video file, may not work, or may show sideways) Replacing a quarter-inch buttonhead on Pitch 10. When drilling out a smaller hole, you have to make small hits, at first, to keep from binding the drill bit This is now a 14-pitch route, as I measured the remaining rope when Brian reached the "tree belay" atop Pitch 14, and know we could just as well have clambered up the summit blocks to the top. I will be editing the topo and posting it later. While descending high on the ridge we saw two climbers topping out on Skeena26. Good to see that route getting some use. The amazing linkup by Kyle and Jenny will have an effect! My thanks go to a smart, cautious, and patient partner; good on ya' Brian. And thanks, Kellie, for making the suggestion of a bolt on the 'white hump' on Pitch 14, corroborated by Brian; it is now a better pitch. All photos by Brian Young Gear Notes: Standard single rack to 3". Approach Notes: The boot track now has two detours around winter blowdowns. They are pretty well kicked in, watch for the piles of sticks blocking the original way, and turn right.
  3. Thanks for posting the trip report and photos. That last photo is breathtaking. Looks like you had a fine outing.
  4. You had a lot more snow on the descent than we did, so you had much more to contend with after an arduous trip. Congratulations on a successful ascent of a great route! At the bottom of the difficulties, just above Lake Serene, there are tarns with lovely slabs and boulders to play on. In the relief from being down from such a route, my friend Chuck and I did some easy bouldering in July, 2005.
  5. That looks like an excellent ramble. Thanks for posting the fine pictures and story. Beautiful rock!
  6. [TR] Mount Deception - Standard 06/20/2021

    Nice trip report and photos, thank you for posting.
  7. That looks like fun, thank you for the trip report and nice photos!
  8. Does anyone know if the tree has been removed from the Clear Creek road, yet?
  9. How do we add photos to an article?

    Right. I learned not to link directly to files on my Google Drive, and moved on. Thanks for the explanation. :-)
  10. Drove up to Darrington yesterday to check the road conditions. Clear Creek road: almost blocked by a huge tree 2.5 miles up from the pavement. There is enough room to drive under it, but someone has tried to cut the log with a large chainsaw and failed. Whether there is enough strength left in the log to keep it there while you are up climbing is left to your judgement. Squire Creek road: clear and even better than last year. You can drive past the cave-in of two years ago without even turning aside. It is just another orange ribbon on the side of the road.
  11. First time visiting Tieton ?s

    You don't say what grade range you are comfortable with. However, I believe the highest concentration of "moderate" routes for a day, with no more than a single rack and 60m rope, is at The Bend.
  12. Whitehorse, matinee idol

    Thanks for the movie tip! I'll be looking for that.
  13. [TR] Lundin Peak - West Ridge 10/27/2020

    Nice to see the climb done in interesting conditions, thanks for the report and photos.
  14. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Thanks for the rebolting job out there, Mark and Chris. I used to really like going there. Once I caught my leader Chuck S. coming off the On Line crux. He loved that route.
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