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Otto

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Everything posted by Otto

  1. A very informative trip report, thank you. Nice work with the annotations. That is a huge amount of alpine rambling, something to look forward to!
  2. Yes, it's always cool to do that bonus pitch of Silent Running. I've led it a couple of times, it was so fun to follow you up it. But, the name, 'Road to Silent Bonus Tour'? Hmm...
  3. Indeed, thanks Curt for the Tour! Had a fun time climbing this with you and tanstaafl.
  4. Well, yes, that's a nice photo. Was it done with your RX100 or the D7100? On a tripod?
  5. [TR] Stuart Range - Stuart Range Traverse 08/30/2021

    Absolutely. A classic, self-motivated, big day out. Well done. Pardon my asking, but did you use the tag line at any point?
  6. Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

    Remove the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Turn the blade of an old hack saw 90 degrees and saw the bolt off close to the rock. Punch the stud down in the hole with a hammer. New bolts are not to be placed on old routes. Keep the hangers and make a wind chime.
  7. Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer Trip Date: 07/18/2021 Trip Report: On Saturday, July 17th I met Brian Young at the Shell station in Darrington for a trip up Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer on Squire Creek Wall. Glad that I'd borrowed Brian's brush cutter earlier this year, the bike ride up the old logging road was pleasant. In no hurry with only the approach to do this day, it took us 3 hours to get to camp. Then we carried our ropes and climbing gear up to the top of Pitch 1, having soloed the easy first pitch, and clipped it all to the anchor there. On Sunday the 18th we awoke at 4:30, first light, and departed after breakfast. At first we worried about the pack weight for the second, as it contained four full water bottles, all drilling gear, a chain anchor, and six bolts with hangers. We even discussed fixing each pitch and the second doing them on jumars. Instead, I tried climbing with it, and not one complaint was aired all day. We climbed rapidly and were at the Bubba Compactor at 7:30am! Brian took Pitch 2, which had me worried, but he cruised it and every even-numbered pitch thereafter. I followed Pitch 10 with no problem with the pack, it was even fun! I noted the piton was still there on Pitch 11; this point didn't seem as scary as on the FA. On Pitch 14 Brian yelled that this was the scariest pitch of the whole route! We noted that a bolt or two would be good on the sandy slabs there. We reached the summit at 2:00. I quickly made ready for drilling the list of fixups, which included: 1) Installing a chain anchor on the summit 2) Adding two bolts to Pitch 14 3) Replacing the piton on Pitch 11 with a bolt 4) Replacing the two quarter-inch buttonheads on Pitch 10 with fat bolts I drilled the summit anchor, and we descended. On the pitches with drilling tasks, we fixed the lead rope and I rapped down it, got on jumars, did the work, and rapped to the next anchor. Then Brian unfixed the rope and rapped both ropes normally. It all got done smoothly but took time and we knew we would be hiking out partly by headlamp. As it turned out, we crossed Squire Creek in the last of the dusky light. We dried off our feet, donned headlamps, hiked and biked down to the trailhead, and reached the cars at around 11:00. The C-shaped route On Pitch 11, with the "inverted prow" on the left Brian taking the summit shot Drilling the top anchor 20210719_002635000_iOS.MOV (an experiment to include a video file, may not work, or may show sideways) Replacing a quarter-inch buttonhead on Pitch 10. When drilling out a smaller hole, you have to make small hits, at first, to keep from binding the drill bit This is now a 14-pitch route, as I measured the remaining rope when Brian reached the "tree belay" atop Pitch 14, and know we could just as well have clambered up the summit blocks to the top. I will be editing the topo and posting it later. While descending high on the ridge we saw two climbers topping out on Skeena26. Good to see that route getting some use. The amazing linkup by Kyle and Jenny will have an effect! My thanks go to a smart, cautious, and patient partner; good on ya' Brian. And thanks, Kellie, for making the suggestion of a bolt on the 'white hump' on Pitch 14, corroborated by Brian; it is now a better pitch. All photos by Brian Young Gear Notes: Standard single rack to 3". Approach Notes: The boot track now has two detours around winter blowdowns. They are pretty well kicked in, watch for the piles of sticks blocking the original way, and turn right.
  8. Congrats on some big days out! Thank you for the thoughtful writing in this report.
  9. Thanks for starting the discussion. I'm not a camera nerd, just in the market for a point-and-shoot for documentation of climbing routes. I'll check out the Sony RX100.
  10. Thank you for the excellent trip report. I'm glad your buddy found his mood once again elevated. cheers!
  11. Mighty fine photos there, Kyle. Alpine ridge climbing on Skookum looks great! Where do you find these obscure things? Thank for posting.
  12. ONP permit system questions

    Have fun out there in the "greater ranges of Washington"!
  13. Nice one, thanks for letting us know about it! No longer a mystery...
  14. [TR] Mount Clark - Standard 08/09/2021

    I've been wanting to go up Clark for a long time. I've heard there is good rock there. Thank you for the excellent photos! However, peak bagging is not a numbers game. It is an experience game, as I'm sure you know.
  15. Thanks for the very well-written trip report. That looks like a full-on bushwhacking experience with an amazing lake for the reward. Kudos.
  16. Anyone seen this guy on at Darrington?

    Not Darrington, but sort of funny. The video shows someone nearby using a boating rope on a route nearby, and some foreign language. I'm guessing Thailand.
  17. What a fine travelogue! I think even I could find that route if I had these photos handy. (I didn't find the peak on first try, either! Many years ago.) Thanks for posting up!
  18. That looks like fun, Curt! Especially that first pitch 4 shot looks really cool. Thanks to you and Mark for doing the work, and sharing the photos and topo. Your son looks just like you! Looking forward to meeting you some day, as I'm sure our paths will cross.
  19. Is there a size limit on photos or topos?

    It looks great now, thank you! I'll take another look at my system, do some tests. thx
  20. I have a topo I'm trying to upload which is 50,619 Kb in size. The error is "failed to load". Is there a size limitation? If so, I can try to find a way, in Photoshop, to reduce the size (I"m already doing "flatten image" of course). Thank you for any advice!
  21. Thanks for posting the topo. Since it is the older version, I assume you got it off Mountain Project. However, I've made the following edits: Top pitch is Pitch 14, there is no longer a 15th pitch. (Summit can be reached without stopping at the "tree belay"). There are now two bolts on Pitch 14. There is now a bolt at the "Inverted Prow" on Pitch 11, instead of the piton.
  22. Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer Trip Date: 09/07/2014 Trip Report: Posting this record and topo to allow the Trip Report Search to find the route history. This route was made with work done from July, 2013 to September, 2014, with the FA on 9/7/2014. Pitches 1-9 (partial) by David Whitelaw and Bill Enger. Pitches 9 (partial) and 10 by Bill Enger and Jim Daubert. Pitches 11-14 by Bill Enger and Jake Larson. In 7/2020, four smashed bolts or hangers on Pitch 2 were repaired or replaced by Bill Enger. In 7/2021, additions were made by Bill Enger and Brian Young: Pitch 11 bolt added at Inverted Prow to replace piton, Pitch 14 two bolts added to protect the white rib and a chain anchor added on the summit. The topo to follow, too big to attach here... Gear Notes: Standard single rack to 3". Two 60m ropes. Approach Notes: Boot track from Squire Creek. ConcertoInC_rev1.pdf
  23. Is there a size limit on photos or topos?

    I am using IrfanView to reduce the size, with its Resize/Resample feature. However, even though the resulting file sizes go very low, they will not upload. Maybe there is something wrong with the way I saved it out from Photoshop; I'll try something some other options.
  24. Is there a size limit on photos or topos?

    Just tried with FireFox (after first try with Chrome) getting same result, "There was a problem uploading your file".
  25. The topo .jpg is failing to attach, perhaps it's too big at 50,619 Kb. Tried a smaller, resized file at 1940 Kb, no joy. Meanwhile, the topo and description are available here: Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer
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