Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Jim last won the day on February 5

Jim had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About Jim

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/01/2003


  • Occupation
  • Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
  1. Boy, that is melting out pretty fast. Didn't get to ski it this year. Looks fun though
  2. [TR] Monte Cristo - Standard 06/22/2020

    Ha! Quintessential Cascades. Very good to see you getting out with the kid. My daughter hung with me for a while but reverted to, sigh, just snowboarding.
  3. Score! Congratulations - looks awesome and grim at the same time.
  4. Well, that was quick - thanks. The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.
  5. I'm conducting some research for a book. I climbed the normal (10a) route back in 1995. At that time on the final headwall there was an aid system - about 1 foot-long pieces of rebar stuck out, glued into holes, so that if you could not manage the 10a you could yard up on the very widely spaced rebar. If I remember correctly, there were limited bolts so you also could sling the rebar. This section may be harder than the 10a part of the final pitch, my memory is getting fuzzy. I've searched around and have not found any information about this. Recent trip reports make no mention of the rebar so I assume these have been cut and it appears additional bolts were added for safety. Does anyone know if there were put up on the first ascent?
  6. Need a new camera

    Same - if I don't want to lug around the Nikkon DSLR I go to the RX100 after trying other options. It also is able to shoot RAW images if you are into post-processing.
  7. chucK has passed away

    Sad, sad, sad. Met him a couple times at CC pub things. Seemed a very nice guy. Best wishes to the family and friends.
  8. Beta on Via Ferratas in the Dolomites

    A few years ago I spent a month in Italy, 3 weeks in the Dolomites hiking, VFing and climbing. Cicerone publishes great guides by specific region of the Dolomites. You don't need to hire a guide - but having a car helps a lot as the trailheads and the public transport don't always match up well and you can get to the base early and beat the crowds on the popular ones. We stayed in Arabba at a lodge owned by Brits - Collette's Mountain Lodge or something like that. We also stayed in a couple small towns and just found lodging when we showed up. We worked in an 8 day hut-to-hut hike that was great. My advice would be just plan an itenerary around the VF guide where you will be planning to stay. And spring for a VF kit, you don't want a static setup as your safety backup.
  9. Very nice. Did this 25 years ago -- I think a few joints would hurt on me as well if I went out on it this year. Cheers and keep on plodding along. You're way ahead of most of your age group.
  10. Akk, I remember going into the first location along Lake Union off East Lake
  11. sufferfest (plural sufferfests) A workout or race in the arena of endurance sports that involves prolonged suffering on the part of all who participate. (by extension) An activity in which all participants ache, agonize, ail, endure.
  12. [TR] Goode - NE Buttress 07/22/2018

    That one is a feather in your cap. Been on my list a long time - with two fails due to weather and needless wandering. I'm racing the clock on this one - good job
  13. RIP Fred Beckey

    Well, that guy had one good run of it. First time I ran into him was out at Peshatin in '89 or so. I'm leading and look down and he is hitting on my belayer - 25 yrs younger than him. Somehow he later found got her phone number and called her up asking her out a couple times. Then in the early 90's I was skinning up Mt Amebalis with others and was having equipment issues so stopped to doodle with it and my team kept moving upward. It's snowing pretty hard and up comes this lone craggy guy from below, pauses to nod to me from under his hood, and up he continues. The last time we chatted was at Vertical World last year when he came in to imitate a creaky spider. How many times did you look up at some vague "ascending traverse" and think - man, that was bold for 30 yrs ago - and still is? Peace bro' - and thanks for the memories. Just an icon.