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Jim

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Everything posted by Jim

  1. [TR] Anderson - Eel Glacier 05/30/2021

    Oh, that looks like a nice trip. Yea, surprised at the number of folks considering the effort required for entry, but it was a holiday weekend. You gotta retire for more flexibility!
  2. Price Avalanche + Rescue

    F*&^! You guys are damn lucky. Could have been A VERY poor outcome
  3. Katherine Hepburn was giving an interview when the journalist asked: "I hear you go swimming in the pond on your property in CT all year - is that true?" "Why yes" Hepburn replied. "Do you like that" asked the journalist "Heavens no" replied Hepburn "Then why do you do it" asked the journalist "To make my neighbors feel weak" she replied. Bravo on your ascent.
  4. Anyone Coached by Uphill Athlete or Other?

    I did purchase a coaching package a couple years ago when returning from a layoff after an injury. I followed up with one of their standard plans. I was not impressed by the coaching advice - they did not appear too interested in a pedestrian, older climber. The off-the-shelf plan was good - I would pick up a copy of Training for the New Alpinism if you get or plan or not - you could figure things out on your own from there or use the book as a supplement to the off-the-shelf plan. Good luck
  5. Nice KK - despite the smoke - any port in a storm
  6. Volunteer Park Water Tower

    Funny, I was there the other day as well, looking over my shoulder. About 10 years ago I was there and a couple old(er) guys came by and told me they were ex-Mountaineers. When they were youngin's they used to go into the tower and throw a rope out the window and top rope - eventually the windows were covered with mesh. Was good to hear the rebel tendencies go way back.
  7. Well, maybe there has been a bunch of climbers flocking to the park without climbing gyms open? I've been going there for 30+ years to boulder a few laps around the base, but now there are "Historic Structure - No Climbing" signs up. What's the world coming to?
  8. Volunteer Park Water Tower

    Really? Maybe I've just been blissfully blind - seriously, I don't think I could have missed them (?). God, I sound like an old guy.
  9. Boy, that is melting out pretty fast. Didn't get to ski it this year. Looks fun though
  10. [TR] Monte Cristo - Standard 06/22/2020

    Ha! Quintessential Cascades. Very good to see you getting out with the kid. My daughter hung with me for a while but reverted to, sigh, just snowboarding.
  11. Score! Congratulations - looks awesome and grim at the same time.
  12. I'm conducting some research for a book. I climbed the normal (10a) route back in 1995. At that time on the final headwall there was an aid system - about 1 foot-long pieces of rebar stuck out, glued into holes, so that if you could not manage the 10a you could yard up on the very widely spaced rebar. If I remember correctly, there were limited bolts so you also could sling the rebar. This section may be harder than the 10a part of the final pitch, my memory is getting fuzzy. I've searched around and have not found any information about this. Recent trip reports make no mention of the rebar so I assume these have been cut and it appears additional bolts were added for safety. Does anyone know if there were put up on the first ascent?
  13. Well, that was quick - thanks. The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.
  14. Need a new camera

    Same - if I don't want to lug around the Nikkon DSLR I go to the RX100 after trying other options. It also is able to shoot RAW images if you are into post-processing.
  15. chucK has passed away

    Sad, sad, sad. Met him a couple times at CC pub things. Seemed a very nice guy. Best wishes to the family and friends.
  16. Beta on Via Ferratas in the Dolomites

    A few years ago I spent a month in Italy, 3 weeks in the Dolomites hiking, VFing and climbing. Cicerone publishes great guides by specific region of the Dolomites. You don't need to hire a guide - but having a car helps a lot as the trailheads and the public transport don't always match up well and you can get to the base early and beat the crowds on the popular ones. We stayed in Arabba at a lodge owned by Brits - Collette's Mountain Lodge or something like that. We also stayed in a couple small towns and just found lodging when we showed up. We worked in an 8 day hut-to-hut hike that was great. My advice would be just plan an itenerary around the VF guide where you will be planning to stay. And spring for a VF kit, you don't want a static setup as your safety backup.
  17. Very nice. Did this 25 years ago -- I think a few joints would hurt on me as well if I went out on it this year. Cheers and keep on plodding along. You're way ahead of most of your age group.
  18. Akk, I remember going into the first location along Lake Union off East Lake
  19. sufferfest (plural sufferfests) A workout or race in the arena of endurance sports that involves prolonged suffering on the part of all who participate. (by extension) An activity in which all participants ache, agonize, ail, endure.
  20. [TR] Goode - NE Buttress 07/22/2018

    That one is a feather in your cap. Been on my list a long time - with two fails due to weather and needless wandering. I'm racing the clock on this one - good job
  21. RIP Fred Beckey

    Well, that guy had one good run of it. First time I ran into him was out at Peshatin in '89 or so. I'm leading and look down and he is hitting on my belayer - 25 yrs younger than him. Somehow he later found got her phone number and called her up asking her out a couple times. Then in the early 90's I was skinning up Mt Amebalis with others and was having equipment issues so stopped to doodle with it and my team kept moving upward. It's snowing pretty hard and up comes this lone craggy guy from below, pauses to nod to me from under his hood, and up he continues. The last time we chatted was at Vertical World last year when he came in to imitate a creaky spider. How many times did you look up at some vague "ascending traverse" and think - man, that was bold for 30 yrs ago - and still is? Peace bro' - and thanks for the memories. Just an icon.
  22. Nice photos - snuck one in before the snow flies. Man - multiple parties on a Thursday - too many friggin' folks out there. Those routes are seeing a lot of traffic.
  23. Cascade high routes

    http://www.blurb.com/b/2923822-north-cascades-traverses
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