he doesn't like my rack

[Attitude]

I like my

[Al_Pine]

I like to rack my gear on my harness and on a sling. The sling is one of those pieces of tubular nylon about 5 feet long and tied to make a loop. On the sling I put my tricams, my hexes and some cams. For the tricams I put the pink thru blue on one biner and bigger on another. For the hexes, the smaller ones 1 thru 5 go on a single biner, then 6,7,8 on another and number 9, 10 and 11 get their own biners. I put the big cams #3.5 camalot, #4 Camalt and #3 camalot on their own biners on the sling too. The smaller cams and the stoppers go on my harness. The cams on the right loop. #1 TCU,#2 TCU #.5 on one biner, #1 friend, #.75 camalot on another biner and the #1 camalot and the #2 friend on their own biners. I put my stoppers on the left loop of the harness. I have a double set of stoppers , 1 set of Wild Country and 1 set of Black Diamond. The Black diamond from #4 on up. I separate these onto 4 biners, grouped according to size, so I have one biner with all the smallest stoppers, 1 biner with the medium small, 1 biner with the medium larges and 1 biner with the largest ones. These all go on the left harness loop. I keep the quickdraws on the two rear harness loops. I have 3 foot long slings tripled to make quickdraws and one 5 foot (double) tripled and those go on the left rear loop. Then I have 8 Petzl sport draws with wire gates that all go on the right rear loop. I also have webolette (I love that thing!) and a nut tool that I keep on the left front loop with the stoppers.

[Greg_W]

Al_Pine said:

I like to rack my gear on my harness and on a sling. The sling is one of those pieces of tubular nylon about 5 feet long and tied to make a loop. On the sling I put my tricams, my hexes and some cams. For the tricams I put the pink thru blue on one biner and bigger on another. For the hexes, the smaller ones 1 thru 5 go on a single biner, then 6,7,8 on another and number 9, 10 and 11 get their own biners. I put the big cams #3.5 camalot, #4 Camalt and #3 camalot on their own biners on the sling too. The smaller cams and the stoppers go on my harness. The cams on the right loop. #1 TCU,#2 TCU #.5 on one biner, #1 friend, #.75 camalot on another biner and the #1 camalot and the #2 friend on their own biners. I put my stoppers on the left loop of the harness. I have a double set of stoppers , 1 set of Wild Country and 1 set of Black Diamond. The Black diamond from #4 on up. I separate these onto 4 biners, grouped according to size, so I have one biner with all the smallest stoppers, 1 biner with the medium small, 1 biner with the medium larges and 1 biner with the largest ones. These all go on the left harness loop. I keep the quickdraws on the two rear harness loops. I have 3 foot long slings tripled to make quickdraws and one 5 foot (double) tripled and those go on the left rear loop. Then I have 8 Petzl sport draws with wire gates that all go on the right rear loop. I also have webolette (I love that thing!) and a nut tool that I keep on the left front loop with the stoppers.

 

How do you get out of the parking lot with all that shit!!!!!

[iain]

Greg_W said:

How do you get out of the parking lot with all that shit!!!!!

 

He has a nepalese porter. He is clipped to the gear sling as well.

[Coopah]

Greg_W said:

Al_Pine said:

I like to rack my gear on my harness and on a sling. The sling is one of those pieces of tubular nylon about 5 feet long and tied to make a loop. On the sling I put my tricams, my hexes and some cams. For the tricams I put the pink thru blue on one biner and bigger on another. For the hexes, the smaller ones 1 thru 5 go on a single biner, then 6,7,8 on another and number 9, 10 and 11 get their own biners. I put the big cams #3.5 camalot, #4 Camalt and #3 camalot on their own biners on the sling too. The smaller cams and the stoppers go on my harness. The cams on the right loop. #1 TCU,#2 TCU #.5 on one biner, #1 friend, #.75 camalot on another biner and the #1 camalot and the #2 friend on their own biners. I put my stoppers on the left loop of the harness. I have a double set of stoppers , 1 set of Wild Country and 1 set of Black Diamond. The Black diamond from #4 on up. I separate these onto 4 biners, grouped according to size, so I have one biner with all the smallest stoppers, 1 biner with the medium small, 1 biner with the medium larges and 1 biner with the largest ones. These all go on the left harness loop. I keep the quickdraws on the two rear harness loops. I have 3 foot long slings tripled to make quickdraws and one 5 foot (double) tripled and those go on the left rear loop. Then I have 8 Petzl sport draws with wire gates that all go on the right rear loop. I also have webolette (I love that thing!) and a nut tool that I keep on the left front loop with the stoppers.

 

How do you get out of the parking lot with all that shit!!!!!

 

He used to be 6'2" now he's 5'8"

[Off_White]

Iliketofoldmypaperbagsjustso,followingthecreasesastheycamefromthefactory,

thenintotthirdsandsortthembysizeandstacktheminthespecialcupboardjustfor

paperbagsanditdrivesmenutswhenpeopleputplasticbagsinwiththepaperbagsbecause

theyhavetheirowndrawertogointooncetheyhavebeenwashedandFULLYdried,allbecause

goodfoodcomesfromafullyorganizedkitchenandI'mnotoneofthoseladidahabout

botulismtypes,mylifehasbeeneversomuchmoreorganizedsincemydoctorprescribeddexadrine.

[chirp]

Anyone here besides Pope remember a little Japanese exchange student named Takao? LOL, he always gave me crap for carrying too much gear, but he also conceded that the extra weight was a great training tool.

 

What ever happened to him? Anyone know?

[Al_Pine]

I'd be embarassed by these quips if they actually came from anyone who climbs at all.

 

<- me waving to you guys from the climbing area

 

<- you guys

 

[RuMR]

chirp said:

Anyone here besides Pope remember a little Japanese exchange student named Takao? LOL, he always gave me crap for carrying too much gear, but he also conceded that the extra weight was a great training tool.

 

What ever happened to him? Anyone know?

 

TAK rox!! He crashed w/ me at bend for a long time and was good friends w/ my wife...

 

He's hilarious...especially when craig hadley was around...

 

He owns a gym in osaka now!

[iain]

Al_Pine said:

I'd be embarassed by these quips if they actually came from

ouch! relax dude, bring whatever.

[Phil K]

erik said:

i prefer both options depending on what is at hand. for cragging on the harness and the rest goes on the sling. i figure whoever brings the rack dictates the option. you need to be flexable enough to handle all the sitmos. bug is righ on about the efficiceny. plus there is potential lest chance to drop your gear.

 

be flexible.

 

and i keep mine in the glove box!

[David_Parker]

This is about Alpine racking, not crag or sport racking. Alpine climbing demands efficiency. MattP is right on about making some anchors too perfect on easy ground. The partners should discuss their similarities and differences before they start. The leader should get the rack the way he/she likes it. Perhaps that is one reason many alpinists lead in blocks. The follower should clean and re-rack the way he likes the rack if he leads next and the way the partner likes it if he leads next (again). If you are using two ice tools, it affects the way you handle slings (why I like rabbit runners!) That being said I think in the alpine most of the gear should be on a sling with each partner always having one. Large cams can be on the gear loops and passed off if the particular pitch calls for them. Alpinists should have gear loops on their packs! If you're wearing a pack, the ones on your harness don't work very well. Slings work better at tight stances. Climbers who don't like using gear slings should start practicing to get used to them if they want to become an alpinist. Keep in mind the alpine rack is often much smaller. A rule of thumb is one rock piece for each 5.? of the grade....ie... 6 pieces for 5.6, 7 for 5.7 etc, not counting ice screws. I like to have 4-6 slings around my shoulder on top of the gear sling and draws on the rack. An alpinist should not have to constantly make long runners short and then undo them again and again. Too much bumbling around. I like my runners around my shoulder going the opposite way as the gear sling with one biner on them and a couple spares on the rack if you need another. I also like the biners with gear clipped with gates out. (I don't care what is in front or back so I just put the sling on backwards instead of turning them all around if my partner likes it the other way). When wearing winter clothes, I think they unclip easier. I do like my screws on "clippers" on my pack or harness as they hang better and don't rip my pants.

 

I disagree with the premise it doesn't make a difference how fast your change overs are. This is where a lot of time CAN be lost an a big route and it IS important to have your systems down. Alpinism is about moving all the time (fast) without wasted energy.

 

Al-Pine, you carry way too much gear!!!

[Al_Pine]

I'll cary what I want. All you fuckers can get fucking fucked!!!

[Kevin_Ristau]

I personally really like racking on my harness.

When swapping leads, however, a sling is the way to go. It is a faster and more efficient system.

[wscottf]

Off_White said:

Iliketofoldmypaperbagsjustso,followingthecreasesastheycamefromthefactory,

thenintotthirdsandsortthembysizeandstacktheminthespecialcupboardjustfor

paperbagsanditdrivesmenutswhenpeopleputplasticbagsinwiththepaperbagsbecause

theyhavetheirowndrawertogointooncetheyhavebeenwashedandFULLYdried,allbecause

goodfoodcomesfromafullyorganizedkitchenandI'mnotoneofthoseladidahabout

botulismtypes,mylifehasbeeneversomuchmoreorganizedsincemydoctorprescribeddexadrine.

 

That's the funniest fucking post I've ever seen!

[Dru]

I like to carry all my gear around in a rubbermaid. Also I can bivi in it and it is waterproof. BUT it's a bitch in chimneys and offwidths!

[specialed]

Gear slings are great but they always get caught up in my kilt. And there's no place to clip the bag pipes in.

[minx]

Gear slings are great but they always get caught up in my kilt. And there's no place to clip the bag pipes in.

 

clearly, you need to spring for the more expensive sling with the nice plastic covered loops. the bagpipes should secure nicely. have considered an alpine flute instead? as for your kilt, well we all wish you'd stop wearing it anyway. it's well...lets just say...disturbing.

[specialed]

Then why do you keep asking to "wear it on the next pitch" when we switch over at belays?

[catbirdseat]

I started out using a symmetrical sling, but switched to an asymmetric one for comfort. The problem is when you get a partner (like Toast) who racks on the wrong side of his body, they have to wear the rack inside out. Wait, I guess that's his problem.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I climb with all sorts of goons. Me being one too.

 

All these losers have their own quirks and opinions how to rack shit.

 

I carry my shit on a sling - that is the pro. Then the draws on a my harness.

 

If partner don't like it he can fuck off and get brown coils dropped on em. For the most part it's never really been an issue that I can remember.

 

But to be honest - I find it faster when most of the stuff is traded off via sling.

 

When carrying the proper amount of rack you wont have much to hand off when it comes time to swap leads many times too. If you do - it might be worth considering that is where you might save some weight AND TIME :-)

[Dru]

Lead in blocks then you only have to swap the rack once every 4 or 5 pitches.

[SnowByrd]

I started out using a symmetrical sling, but switched to an asymmetric one for comfort. The problem is when you get a partner (like Toast) who racks on the wrong side of his body, they have to wear the rack inside out. Wait, I guess that's his problem.

 

What side of your body are you supposed to rack on then?

[snoboy]

Don't worry, "wrong side" is relative, ie the side that you don't use.

[Cpt.Caveman]

The best rack ?

 

(^)(^)

 

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(')(')

 

(o)(o)

 

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