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Phil K

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Everything posted by Phil K

  1. Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

    Same looser who bolted Little Sister?
  2. [TR] Lundin Peak - West Ridge 10/27/2020

    Rock shoes? You crazy kids!! Sounds like fun.
  3. Conditions Report: Static Point

    I have fond memories of my whopping two/three(?) visits to Static Point. Very cool spot; I'm glad it's still a viable climbing area. Funny, I was not exactly all that bold, and never felt it was overly runout.... once you clipped the first bolt on P1. I do hope you left that first easy 40' slab exercise in its original unbolted state. [Oh, and great job doing all this work!!!!]
  4. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Jason will remember this..... NE Rib/Buttress of J’berg. We’d just started up the “Becky 4th class” rock section above the steep heather. Our partner opted for the easy chossy variation rather than take the awkward chimney. Well above his last good piece something comes loose and he starts sliding off the mountain, shouting out- STOP ME! Fortunately, a fixed pin he’d clipped held, and it was an easy catch. I’d estimate he fell a good 30’. In the brief time before he determined that he was basically OK, I realized just how serious the situation would be if he had been really hurt. As is, he was able to complete the route and hobble out with a very badly bruised thigh.
  5. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    I'll send you a batch of slides to work on Jason!
  6. Summit Mount Rainier 2020

    But seriously pardner, have fun, and hope you find some cool friends.
  7. Summit Mount Rainier 2020

    Hi, I'm Phil. I've lived here for a while now, currently 65, and in pretty good shape for an old fart. 'Don't know if I'll ever summit the bigR again, of if I'd even want to unless I could take it slow and mellow. Never been much over 1000' elevation in CA. Stable snow=Good. You and I sound perfect for each other.
  8. Interesting.... Should we be expecting a new TR from you soon Jason?
  9. I think if you've gotten 10 years out of one, you're ahead of the pack. My merino base layers always do that, thinner stuff especially. I've taken to laundering them very carefully and air drying.
  10. Vertical Limit guide to climbing

    Is that an Ed Cooper photo Jason? Somehow it seems likely to me. Funny shit, that video; I watched it twice.
  11. [TR] Johannesburg - NE Rib 1957 10/13/2018

    Oh boy, doesn't that bring back memories. That would be a piece of work when snowed up. Yikes!!!
  12. Excellent TR as usual Jason. We went in there a few years ago when we got shut out on a Granite Lakes trip (hint, hint...). Our approach was via Grade Creek road, and there is a surprisingly good way trail in as far a Bluff Lake. We must have removed five pounds of completely unnecessary flagging tape.
  13. It looks like you've got your links out of order; for example, clicking "South face of Tupper!" loads previous pic of N face of McDonald. At least on my computer.
  14. Such an awesome place- I love that Hamill Quartzite. How were the snaffles?
  15. Rainier Infinity Loop: new FKT

    Heck, you can arguably even skip the sunscreen.
  16. That's the coolest thing I've seen in a long time.
  17. Identify this peak

  18. Identify this peak

    N. Face of Fury?
  19. Conditions for complete NR of Stuart

    Anyone here have any more info on yesterday’s (6/24/18) accident on Stuart? News reports so far seem to point to a slide from the snowfield below the false summit onto the rocks below. This seemingly innocous spot may in fact be the statistically most dangerous part of the whole mountain. My wife and I were taking an extremely mellow hike up off the Foss River when we saw a USCG copter go by about 1:30 PM. It flew up the Skykomish valley then turned S and flew roughly over Decpetion Pass. A bit later I could make out with binoculars an aircraft circling Stuart in the distance and knew something was up.
  20. Pacemaker access

    I'd suggest standing well back in case of avalanche. Bring your longest lens.
  21. Advice for First Timer to N Cascades

    Speaking of disasters in unexpected places; if you end up doing the Colchuck Col route despite the dire looking video above (I’d never expect to see a major avvy there, it seems so benign.), be careful descending from Asgard Pass. How many fatalities have we had there recently from people glissading into a moat/hidden waterfall? It’s actually a really cool route with a fine alpine feel and not much real difficulty.
  22. Day or two of rock this week?

    Worse. That was some pretty major incompetence on the C-H, but we’d have possibly been in over our heads, and definitely would have frozen our asses off had we continued. The Headwall route was pretty much in the bag. Winter, too IIRC.
  23. Day or two of rock this week?

    Good times! I’m pretty sure that I made an attempt on the Coleman Headwall with Jeff Street and this guy. He talked a great game; studly Iranian alpinist, climbed various 4000m peaks, very fit, etc. We started to suspect something was amiss five minutes from the parking lot when he’d disappeared behind us and took a looong time to catch up. Next “morning” (middle of the night), the conditions were PERFECT; full moon, crisp hard snow, no wind, perfect visibility, and he totally screwed us! ‘Took twice as long on the approach, then once things started getting a bit spicy, it became extremely obvious that he was in no way fit or competent. We pretty quickly decided that he was an unacceptable liability and bailed. I’m still pissed when I think about how great conditions were that night, and how he lied his way onto our climb.
  24. The Tooth speed record?

    Is that with a dog or without?