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specialed

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Everything posted by specialed

  1. Climb: Mt. Alberta-NE Ridge Date of Climb: 8/18/2004 Trip Report: Last week, Rolf Larsen from 11worth and I went up to the Rockies. Drove all day Sunday from 11worth to Field. Luckily, Parks Canada employees were on strike so were were able to doss in the dirt all week and didn't need to get a b/c pass. Monday morning went up to the Parkway Center to look at weather forecast. Forecast looked pretty good for the next couple days - sunny with some isolated afternoon showers. Rolf was keen on climbing Alberta, and since the weather was stable enough we set off to do the NE Ridge. Left the truck around noon, forded the silty freezing cold Waisporous (sp?) and heade up Woolley Creek. About 4.5 hrs thru beautiful country and we were up into the alpine, over the col, and down to the Hut. Got stormed on that night for 10 minutes as an evening storm rolled in. Off at 4:00 AM the next morning after some instant coffee and glue (oatmeal). Made it over to the base of the route before it was light so we sat for about a half hour. Started the route about 6:00, up some chossy 5.8. Rolf setting off cascaded of rocks with every move. Two roped pitches and we gained the ridge. We soloed up about a 1000' on loosely stacked blocks up to the main headwall where the sketchy 5.10 was supposed to be. WInd was ripping over the north side and we started belaying again. About six real chossy and loose pitches with minimal pro going at about 5.9+ saw us up the headwall. One pitch was actually decent with a hand crack and some chimneying. Of course, right after that I pulled a coffee-table book sized rock onto my head and had to hold it there while I rearranged my self to trundle it. The last section, was super unconsolidated dinner plates and some snow and no pro. But we managed to sneak around the east side of the steepest snow on a rock ledge as I only had aluminum strap ons and no snow or ice pro. The summmit ridge was trully a "Sidewalk in the sky," but we were moving too fast to really appreciate it as we summitted at 4:00 pm, and a huge thunder storm was building and moving up valley. An hour later we were at the Japenese Route Gulley. Ten nerve-racking raps, with a thunder of rocks coming down on every rope pull, saw us to the yellow band and we traversed south. Luckily the thunder storm never materialized and we made it down to the flats before dark, leaving us with a casual and beautiful hike across the moraine and back up the glacier to the hut. A 17 hr day. Note: N Face is not in in August anymore and hasn't been climbed since the mid-90's, despite attempts by many well-known and strong parties. After that - a rest day in which I spent all day drinking beer and hitting on the hotty Australian girl that works at the Hostel (to no avail of course). Passed up an attempt on the E Face of Babel due to bear closures and weather and went east to climb the Kafir Strikes Back on Mt. Edith - III, 10c. Crux pitch was completely soaked so we settled for Homage to the Spider on Mt. Louis - III, 10a. I highly recomend this route as it turned out to be one of the funnest routes I've done. Sustained 5.9/10a, in great position on interesting rock, cool features, challenging but never desperate. All in all a great trip with a very solid partner. Though Rolf is a cynical bastard, I'm a judgmental asshole so it worked out OK. Gear Notes: alpine rack, pins Approach Notes: no bears, lots of loose scree
  2. Girl Repellent

    Well you stated your problem righ there dude, you don't go to local sport crag and flex and pose wear tight lycra and throw wild dynos and heal hooks on the routes you've got wired. If anything will attract the Prana/Ropegun pseudo-climber babe set that will do it. Your just not being superficial enough that's your problem. And while climbing might not be the number one babe magnet in the world would you really want to spend time with a girl who doesn't climb?
  3. Whatcha doin' this long weekend?

    They let you drive your car in the mall?
  4. Geek magnet

    Oh my fucking lord...! Do you set yourself up for beatings on purpose? Are you really waxing philosphic about your pathetic inability to get laid after the abuse you just took last week?!!!! You are too funny. Note to gary: The reason you are attracted to bohemian chicks is because they appear "cool" and "mysterious" to right-brain troglodites like yourself. Furthermore, the reason you are conflicted about having children versus chasing after an independent, carefree woman is that you are still an idealistic boy sheltered under the nuzzling teat of academic complacency. The way to a woman's heart is not through her computer screen. Get out there a try getting some.
  5. Geek magnet

    clearly, it's this attitude that has given sp'ed his reputation for being great in bed or in his case, outstanding in his field. You couldn't handle my moves.
  6. Geek magnet

    I just don't think its true that men will have sex with anything that moves. Movement isn't necessary.
  7. Counting the days....

    yep...last winter was pretty much the shit!! With the added bonus of listening to all the skiing faeries whining... And a nonexistent winter snowpack is great for the environment too. I hear Ford 150s are worse I hear living in Portland is even worse than that since you have to drive half way up or down the coast to get to any REAL mountains.
  8. Geek magnet

    The ones that have a pulse.
  9. Counting the days....

    yep...last winter was pretty much the shit!! With the added bonus of listening to all the skiing faeries whining... And a nonexistent winter snowpack is great for the environment too.
  10. Injuries without Dignity

    You pulled an all nighter to prepare for watching a film on human reproduction? Interesting.
  11. Is Barbie getting what she deserves?

    I bet G.I Joe could kick Action Man's ass. Action Man sounds like a fag.
  12. micromanaging

    You mean manage the micro
  13. Deep Water Crack Soloing

    I've heard incredible stories of vast undeveloped climbing south of the border. Down there I think its a sport only for the borgeoise or visiting / expatriot gringos. Sounds like your trip was awesome!! BTW
  14. Me and You and Everyone We Know

    I'll pee in your butt.
  15. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    Did you hear the one about the 10d X chimney on Dragontail?
  16. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    On the contrary, Michael, I would have to say that when I took that picture the angle kicked up to dead verticle. When I finally lifted my cowering head from fear and looked up I nearly shat myself. It was a good 20-30 feet to the next gear on vertical greasy nubs and it was another old fucked up button head. I clipped it and was offered no relief. I couldn't even see the next available piece of gear and wasn't even sure where to go. If I went the wrong way I would be off route, fall, rip out ALL the gear, and probably the belay. After I finished hyperventilating and chose the correct way I could see the bolt...another 20 feet of ever GREASIER slabby polished slopers I had to slap and mantle on w/no feet to the next bolt, all told probably a 40' runout on dead vertical terrain. It was another shitty buttonhead. I could see the anchor! Another 25' run-out on the same type of climbing! Yeah! I'm gonna fucking die! I'm going to kill us BOTH! This is sweet! I almost fucking fell just before the anchors (actually a couple times on the whole pitch too) and my heart came out of my chest when I saw it was a two bolt bent buttonhead fuck-show of an anchor!
  17. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    Atleast the belay would have been warmer.
  18. ThanksGivin was Fucked

    Well, you do know what a West Virginian says after having sex? Get off me Dad you're squishing my cigarettes!!
  19. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    That makes the ridge and the chasm of death look right, but then the climber and the other side of the ridge are fucked. Maybe Oly needs to add the geoduck and Annabelle Bond to make it right.
  20. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    No way. The camera was maybe tilted a little bit, but not much because that's how steep the wall was there. Took the pic on the NE ridge of Alberta in a spot where the whole side just falls away onto the whole general N Face abyss. I don't know why the ground looks so funky
  21. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    Can't compete with the sick geoduck v10 sendfest but: Sorry for the fucked up pic sizes. Ice Mountain Climbing Skiing
  22. 2nd Annual CC.com Photo Contestizzle

    Cool skiing photo!
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