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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. This one oughta be one of those BEST OF CC.COM thingies considering how rarely SF comes in. Next ascents of SF after this were in 2014!
  2. Viva La Revolution

    Anybody want some coca leaves?
  3. Climb: Mount Outram-Ghost Passenger (FA/FWA East Face) Date of Climb: 3/12/2005 Trip Report: I have been scheming to climb the East Face of Outram for a couple of years now. The large, gullied face is hard to see from most roads but you can get glimpses from some other peaks, and the view from Snass (Justin Brown has some awesome shots on bivouac.com) is quite impressive. In August 2003 Fred Touche and I hiked up the standard route on Outram and I took a look see down the face and deemed it possible. In 2004 Merran and I hiked in in May planning to go up the standard route, drop down a gully at the S end of the e face and climb back out up another gully. However this approach, due to weather and also the fact that all the gullies are too steep to be comfortable descents, failed and we ended up bagging the standard route once again. I know Justin and Jordan also made one attempt and had the same problem. For 2005 I decided to head in via the old Ghost Pass trail and up the creek draining the east face. I gleaned some beta on this approach from the usual online sources and prepared for windfall and thrashing. The nice descent down the standard route means the best climbing choice is to carry over bivi gear and I packed accordingly. No stove, cold food, two tools, crampons, a few jacket layers, a -7C sleeping bag for a possible long night bivi and a 3/4 length z-rest. I parked at the wooden marmot around 12:30 on Saturday and started hiking the Ghost pass trail. this leaves the old Engineers' Road about 2 km east of the Outram Trail and cuts over the ridge into the valley of Eighteen Mile Creek. The trail was overgrown and had lots of windfall but wasn't as hard to follow as I had feared it would be. After about three hours of hiking I left the trail and cut up an obvious side valley towards Outram. By the time I reached treeline it was getting near dark and I was tired. There were lots of possible lines so I elected to bivi overnight and make an early start instead of picking one line and giving it by headlamp Fred Touche style. There were no real flat spots to bivi not covered in wet snow but I found a good hollow in the ground, filled it in with dead branches and laid the z-rest down on that; it was quite comfortable. For some reason all I could think of all night long was zombie movies and wild animals. I had found fresh cougar tracks not far from my bivi site when approaching and kept waking up in the night in a state of mild panic whenever the wind blew through the trees. Around 5 AM I got up, packed my bivi up and got out of the trees onto the approach slopes to the east face. The face is a very large one with numerous gullies, and is composed of a long face on the SE ridge, and a higher face directly below the summit, in a bit of a cirque. Because of the slanting valley and ridge slopes pretty much all the options on the face are about 400 to 500m high and there are at least a dozen unclimbed gullies here, They pretty much all had a mix of ice and snow in them too. It was hard to make a decision but I ended up heading up to the headwall, mostly because I couldn't see it from lower in the valley and didnt want to pick a good looking line only to find out that the headwall had better lines that I couldn't see. East face at sunrise from treeline near bivi Unclimbed gully with WI3? step Narrow and potentially mixed unclimbed couloir line. When I got up into the east face bowl there were three options... a shady, scary looking couloir and chimney line with chockstones on the left, an open face with a couple of vertical water ice steps in the middle, and a slanting line on the right. The slanting line looked the easiest and had the smallest cornices above it so that was what I chose. It had one narrow kink but most of it looked like snow climbing. East face headwall. Arrow marks line climbed. NS and SS are north and south summits (I had no idea where the summits were when I took the photo). Details might be too small to see in thumbnail, in that case check the gallery. I climbed up into the couloir and the climbing turned out to be awesome with well-frozen neve and little bits of ice where seepages from the sidewalls came in. It was mostly 45 degree climbing with short steeper steps. There was a constant flow of 'hail' on the gully bed as ice fell off the sidewalls and broke up, but almost nothing larger than golf ball size...only two fist size chunks came down and both of them bounced well clear of me. Looking up the gully from near the bottom. I was not climbing too fast and I was also worried about the cornices. The climbing was fun but I wasn't enjoying it much. I came around a corner into the kink I had seen from below and found a 25m step of 70 degree WI3. After climbing this I got above most of the falling ice and the snow relented to 45 degrees again. A few hundred meters higher I got close to the ridge exit and came very close to a big looming house sized cornice. Fortunately the cornice line was not continuous. I picked a line up to where the lip was amost non existant, and although the angle steepened through 50 to almost 65 degrees (tools over head) the exit move was only vertical for less than a bodylength. I pulled onto the ridge to find I was exactly half way between the two summits, which was the point I had been aiming for, but did not know I was about to arrive at. Also, the ridge between the two summits, which is Class 2-3 rock in summer, and that I had thought might be scary and double-corniced, was pretty much a broad easy walk. Almost immediately on topping out my fear went away and I felt a great sense of happiness and relaxation. Tracks on the ridge with north summit behind. By the time I got to south summit it was probably 11:00 or 11:30 AM. I drank the last of my water, ate some PowerGels and took a few photos before starting to descend. Rideout and Payne - Sumallo Valley Mt. Grant, Eaton Peak and Cheam Range behind. The uppermost slopes were pretty wind-blown and icy, then as I went lower the snow softened and the temperature rose. I shed crampons and layers as I descended and even got in some good glissading. It is a very long way back down to the highway (almost 2000m) which I reached around 2:30 for a car-to-car time of 26 hours or so. Obviously that includes a 12 hour bivi and so theoretically a day trip is doable, but if I did it again I would still biv in order to get good early morning snow conditions. The approach is not onerous but does take about 5 hours all told. Since there are so many other unclimbed lines on the face I decided to give the climb a name to distinguish it from other routes that will later be done. I ended up calling it "Ghost Passenger" since the approach is via the Ghost Pass trail and because I was somewhat scared for a lot of the climb. The overall difficulty is probably Grade III, Alpine Grade AD+, WI3 and snow to 65 degrees. The climbing felt quite similar to Central Couloir on Joffre, not as sustained and no rockclimbing exit but with a slightly harder crux than existed the one time I climbed CC on Joffre. Gear Notes: 4 screws, 2 pickets and 2 pins would be an adequate rack for a party of two. Approach Notes: Via Ghost Pass trail, 4-5 hours in. Plan on taking bivi gear up and over. Food notes: In 26 hours I ate 5 powergels, 1 halvah bar, one chocolate bar, a couple of fruitleathers, and a sesame snap packet. I think this is the least amount of food I have ever eaten on an overnight trip. Certainly for most of the climb I did not want to eat at all. I'm still not very hungry. it is possible thatt if I had eaten more and had higher blood sugar levels I might not have felt so scared, I have noticed before that I start to get spooked sometimes when climbing and not eating.
  4. Climb: Talchako Mountain-Northeast Ridge/Butt Date of Climb: 7/28/2004 Trip Report: Ray Borbon, James Nakagami, Fred Beckey and I went in to Talchako Mountain (3037m/9970') which is SE of Bella Coola and N of Mt Monarch. Ray had planned the whole trip and in fact had been bombarding me with pictures of Talchako for almost a year. Matt Perkins was supposed to come too but bailed at the last minute, due to some old skiing injury I believe. Ray, James and Fred arrived July 23. We went to the bar in Chilliwack. James and I got drunk and Fred liked our waitress. He asked in a loud voice if she was a "typical Chilliwack farm girl." Saturday July 24 we drove in Ray's Jeep and my Subaru to Bella Coola. This took about 12 hours. On the drive the smoke from forest fires was so thick that you could see the giant sunspot on the sun with the naked eye without squinting. In Hagensborg James and I got drunk in the bar again. We bivied by the old cannery site. There were amazing, wild, unbelievable strobe-light techno flashing aurora borealis in the night sky. It was my 32nd birthday Sunday July 25 we met Richard Lapointe of West Coast Helicopters and were flown in to Talchako in Richard's monster A-Star. The HUMVEE of helicopters. We could have even hauled in 200 lbs more of gear and food if we had wanted to! Basecamp was at 5400' SE of Talchako on a lake-dotted region of knolls. We had a super base camp site with 2 lakes within walking distance, good views of a huge forest fire to the east in Tweedsmuir Park, and hordes of hungry insects. Monday July 25. We were packed and ready to go. However Fred had a back injury and was feeling some pain so we decided to instead go on a recon mission. Ray and I set out for "Talchako North" a 2500m/8500' peak north of Talchako across a glacier to get some views of our route. We climbed the easternmost of Tal North's 4 summits in a 12 hour jaunt from basecamp via a class 4 scrambling route with some soloing through cliff bands. Our intended route on Talchako looked very impressive. We could not get to the other 3 summits of TN (all probably unclimbed) due to a steep gap and Ray's forgetting his harness not to mention running out of time on what was supposed to be a 5 hour recon mission only. East face from the moraines with NE ridge/butt facing camera. North face from Tal North with the NE ridge/butt obvious at left catching sun. Tuesday dawned incredibly smoky due to a wind shift. Visibility was 50 feet or less for most of the day. Ray, James and Fred all rested. I hiked south to examine Ratcliff. Crossing the river to Ratcliff looked insane so we regretfully bid adieu to Plan B and focussed all attention on Talchako. Ratcliff through the morning smoke. Wednesday morning we got up at 4 AM and set off. Fred was still hurting and stayed behind to read and practice yoga. James, Ray and I made the 4 hour death march approach through clouds of bugs and loose moraines then started climbing up Talchako's NE ridge. We climbed 16 pitches that day. The first 10 pitches or so were 5th class up to 5.7 and then there were about 6 pitches that were more 4th class-ish but we pitched them out due to the presence of wet rock and loose debris on ledges. James and Ray wore rock shoes for some of the climbing. The 5th pitch with James belaying and Ray climbing ahead of me. Ray getting water on some chossy but pretty-coloured ledges on the 14th pitch James working up the edge of the ice arete on the 16th pitch. On about p. 14 we started hitting icy snow patches and had some mixed climbing going on. At the end of the nominal P 16 (actually after about 18 or 19 pitches including shorter ones, but all lengths have been standardized to 60 m pitch lengths) about 6 PM we hit a super ledge and decided it was too good to pass up and bivied there. Dinner was "biftek" and other delicacies and the sunset was rad. Ray eating biftek at the bivi. Lights out.... The night was very cold and shivery and went on far too long. In the morning first light saw building clouds so drill sargeant Ray got us moving ASAP and we climbed about 11 more full pitches of rock and ice aretes up to 55-60 degrees to gain Talchako's eastern summit. The crux was a loose 5.8 chimney and there were several more pitches of 5.7-5.8 in this upper section. We traversed from the eastern summit to the central and western summits in search of a descent route. Also we found the summit register on the central summit. We may have made the 5th or 6th ascent of this peak, there were only 3 entries in the register and one other documented climb we know of, but it could have been climbed in spring when the cairn is under snow. Also there is some evidence the local Nuxalk and Ulkatcho did vision quests or something up here way back in the pre- European contact days. Going down! The descent went down about 4000' of downclimbing and scree ledges. There was one icy section to cross. Once we got to the base of the descent we had to do a traverse around the mountain back to camp. One section with a steep gully to cross was pretty tricky route finding. We made it back to camp around 7 PM. Fred gave up his yoga and break dancing practice long enough to make us some dinner. Fred busts a move. In asana yoga this is called the Horsecock Pose. Friday and Saturday involved rest, recuperation and swatting horeseflies. We ate a lot and hiked around near camp taking photos. James and I did some fun cragging on a half-pitch outcrop near camp climbing some good face routes up to 10a. Sunday we flew out and had a victory dinner. James and Ray blitzed it for home that night. Fred and I bivied near Williams Lake and got back here near noon today. The NE ridge of Talchako is about 27x60m pitches long, we climbed it in about 29-30 pitches but some were short. The hardest rock moves were 5.8. The ice aretes at the top were only about 50 degrees along the crest but due to taking too many pickets and not enough screws we avoided most of them on adjacent rock, however this meant we did have to climb some steeper ice up to 55-60 degrees on the flanks of the arete in a few spots. The overall rating is probably Alpine TD, YDS V 5.8. One knifeblade was left in place at the 18th belay. Looking SW from the summit to Princess Mountain... lots more to do! Gear Notes: light rack with 6 pins and nuts and cams to 2.5" three screws - should have taken 6 one ice axe and one third tool each - two technical tools would have been better 3 pickets - useless, could have been left in camp no rappels so the 20m of rap webbing was only used for bivi padding! Approach Notes: West Coast Helicopters A-Star, $750CDN a person 4 hr moraine slog from base camp
  5. confused

    does doing a route in wa pass go in alpine forum or rock climbing forum
  6. CC.com Turns 11

    I just logged in to post on this important thread.
  7. USE YOUR REAL NAMES ON CC.COM

    I JUST LOGGED IN TO POST IN THIS IMPORTANT THREAD
  8. experienced elderly climber and guidebook author seeks partner for alpine gully route. 10km ski approach may take its toll on your partner and he would prefer to snowmobile in you must have a loud voice and be a rope gun if interested send PM and I will play matchmaker
  9. Climb: Skaha-clip ups and cracks Date of Climb: 3/27/2004 Trip Report: Went to Skaha with Mer and Steve. Climbed a lot of gaper routes. Steve and Mer played rope gun I hardly led anything. Drank a bunch of beer, ate a bunch of bagels. Sunny and cold on Saturday sunny and warm on Sunday. Not too busy at all. One tick and no rattlesnakes. Found a #3 Wild Country Rock lying in some bushes (booty ). Saw some actual good climbers attempting some actually hard type routes but successfully avoided anything too hard ourselves. Successful excuses used: "You should lead this cause its a classic and it is your fist time at Skaha, I wouldn't want to blow your chance to onsight it." "It is too windy to climb this balancy arete - I might get blown off" "Let's go climb in the sun instead." "It's a perfect style for you to lead." "If we walk out this way maybe we will see a rattlesnake." Gear Notes: gear bolts draws beer Subaru friend's house for cush bivy Approach Notes: Subaru trail the famous stairs (now half gone)
  10. Post Count Increaser

    Keep trying, boys. Eventually you'll learn how to be men.
  11. Can a Moderator please make this post sticky? Fred Beckey is currently working on revisions and updates for the third volume of the Cascade Alpine Guide Vol III - the red one - Rainy Pass to Fraser River. If you have come across any inaccuracies in the 2nd edition, or have new routes or improved access/route info to contribute, please send details either directly to Fred or post them here (not that Fred is lurking here but the forum makes a convenient place where those contributing can see what others have to say and summarized info will be provided to him).
  12. Display Upgrades

    Double testing
  13. Sexual Choco's avatar image

    I have been seeing this thing out of the corner out of my eye and thinking it was the head of a goat or something. Well, I looked at the actual picture sourced of his avatar image and it is a guy praying. But the animal is there too if you look closely. Its actually a rooster head I think. Here is the image, enhanced to bring out the rooster head
  14. Pangaea?

    In a mag c. 1993 are shown 2 of Wash's finest hardmen boldly wearing burgundy fleece and other dated garments up the "first ascent of Pangaea 12a" on Liberty Bell group. never heard from again, where is this route? the pic is an ad for MSR's soon-dropped clothing line or something like that.
  15. Bad Photo Contest

    Go on post the worst photo you ever took. Butt shots, out of focus, thumb in the way, dirt on the camera, Mike Layton's pimply ass, whatever. The winner will win an ear of Chilliwack corn!
  16. 2000

    I reign supreme. Capt. is a wanker. I piss on you all from a considerable height. See you at Spray Creek Falls!
  17. 2000

    MASS POST ENVY FAIL
  18. Happy Birthday!

    Albert Hoffman is 100. Drop acid and free solo something!
  19. Avatar Images

    Hey IT guy You like Hello Kitty? Work safe?
  20. Serratus RIP

    Serratus is going out of business and closing the factory. If you need a new Genie or whatever buy it NOW cause soon there will be no more.
  21. CLIPPY

    KILL KILL KILL
  22. Climb: Slesse Group - Labour Day Summit -East Pillar & Gendarme Date of Climb: 7/17/2005 Trip Report: This was supposed to be an overnighter but my climbing partner, who is also a firefighter auxiliary, got 2 callouts on Saturday afternoon. Thus we turned it into a long, long daytrip. sunday 6AM I met Shaun at the vedder bridge. drove out to nesakwatch creek parked shauns truck at 7am and started hiking. the new trail to slesse memorial is nice al;beit a bit muddy. once it joins the old trail, significant bush has been cleared to slesse memorial making for a fast hike. 1.5 hrs from the car from slesse memorial to the road end, NO bush has been cleared. there was a lot of dew on the jungle so we had to stop twice to empty water out of boots, wring out socks and steam a bit in the sun. from road end to prop cairn the trail is well marked and in good shape. about 2.5 hrs from the car from propellor cairn we started traversing south across the moraines and talus. our destination was Labour Day Summit, the SE most of the Slesse Group peaks. you get a good view of this from rexford. the Labour Day Buttress (north buttress) was climbed in the 70s and a route on the E face, was done in 2003 but we knew that there was still steep granite left unclimbed. we traversed to the base of the NE face and scrambled a few hundred meters to a snow gully leading up to the col between the east pillar, and a major gendarme. we were able to avoid most of the snow via slab climbing to its right, mostly class 4 with a few 5.7 moves. got forced onto the snow at the top, which was a bit worrisome as shaun just had stiff boots whereas i had floppy boots and had a 3rd tool. shaun kicked good steps and i followed with the tool out on some 45 degree neve. it was soft enough to kick steps but hard enough to be stable, so we made out OK. the last bit up to the col was a muddy, rotten basalt dyke that made for though provoking scrambling. from the col, we first scrambled up the gendarme, although fearsome from most aspects the back side went at a pleasant class 3-4. however the final summit was a 4m high block, overhanging on 3 sides, with 200m drops below. shaun soloed the 5.7 moves to the summit while i took pictures; i was feeling too cooked to go up there myself. back down in the col it was very hot and we were dismotivated. to go up would be difficult but to go back down would also be a sufferfest. we napped for an hour or so and finally started climbing around 2 pm once the face was fully shaded. shaun picked out a good looking but steep and hard line going almost directly up from the col. i volunteered to let him lead it all as i was feeling rather weak and worked over already. the pitches went at 30m 5.7 (soloed), 30m 5.10a, 45m 5.10d, 60m 5.10b and 50m 5.4 to the summit. amazing climbing up finger, hand, and knee sized cracks and then a loose chimney. the 10d pitch was one of the best alpine pitches i have climbed, shaun did a really good job on lead. i was forced to pull on a few pieces while seconding. by the time we got to the summit it was 6 pm. great views in all directions especially with slesse looming to the NW, an unusual view of "The Fang". to descend we scrambled down the south face of labour day peak and then traversed south until we could downclimb a ramp into the second cirque SE of Labour Day. then we had to climb through a ridge notch into the SE cirque, and finally could begin the long traverse back to the Prop Cairn over snow, moraine and boulders. we had been out of food since the summit, but took advantage of the many meltwater streams to stay hydrated. back to Prop Cairn at 9 PM, great alpenglow from the sunset on rexford etc. made it to slesse memorial just after 10, headlamps on, staggering by now. neither headlamp had a new battery so the light was rather faint but we made it to the car by 11:25 PM and I was home in da Wack by 12: 30. I nearly fell asleep while drinking the victory beer, and arrived late for work today. Pics to come, and we did not yet come up with a name for our new route. Gear Notes: One set of wires Full set of cams (purple TCU to #4 Camalot), with doubles from yellow TCU to blue Camalot. Didn't have a #5 camalot but could have used it for the 5", 5m long offwidth off the belay on the 2nd pitch. no pins. Approach Notes: Nesakwatch Cr road 2wd/3km, 4wd/6km. Bring rain pants or something for dew soaked bush.
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