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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. Climb: Mt. Hood-Coe Glacier Icefall Date of Climb: 8/4/2004 Trip Report: HB, Mr. Beer and I made leisurely stroll through the Coe Glacier Icefall this morning. You can make it as fun as you want to. We found some good, but short sections of steep ice to climb, with some interesting route-finding problems at times. Gear Notes: 5 screws, 2 pickets. Pickets were key for at least one belay. Approach Notes: Follow west moraine up, swing around the crags on either side, cross a snow tongue to a notch, and downclimb a crappy gully to the glacier.
  2. Right back atcha... Thanks for the great photos and company.
  3. Thank you for the photos. It's healthy to maintain a strict policy of not touching any rock on North Sister.
  4. Avalanche discussion thread

    I was curious if it released on the widespread surface hoar reported in the Stevens Pass and Methow areas in the days before the storm.
  5. Marmot Lithium or Couloir?

    I have the Lithium and an older Pinnacle. As far as I can tell the Lithium is bare-bones compared to my other Marmot bag. Things like a watch pocket near your ear are not there on the Lithium to save weight. It also might be cut a little smaller to save some additional oz. I am satisfied with it.
  6. Nice pictures. Last time I was on the cowdog there was a fixed rope in the gulley to the left. But we ended up rapping all 2.5 pitches since we couldn't see a smooth pull happening. Felt the first pitch was a little scuzzy but maybe it's cleaner now.
  7. North sister conditions/trailhead access

    Unlikely. ODOT is not planning to plow McKenzie Pass this year. Pole Creek TH is definitely open for business though.
  8. Chopper

    Here's mtnhigh on chopper. Will eventually kill/maim someone but until then it's a fun one. Fun to watch the cams creak in the upper part.
  9. Three Sisters ski traverse beta?

    The cleanest descents from near the summit pinnacle on N. Sister are Thayer Glacier Headwall and Early Morning Couloir. Unfortunately they don't lend themselves to moving south. You can expect some steep snow/ice and rock with significant exposure to top out on these routes that time of year. If you descend via the standard s. route downclimbing into the bowling alley w/ ski boots and skis could be engaging if there is ice. It would be possible to pick your way down the west face in a southerly traversing fashion but it might not be as satisfying as the above and you'd be skiing it on-sight. It would put you in a good position for moving on to M. Sister. If you are game for the above descents you might consider Diller Headwall on M. Sister. The SW ridge is the classic descent. I would plan the # of days not for fitness level but to be skiing the routes at the right time of day.
  10. Huge climbing falls

    I like how Beacon was somehow worked into this.
  11. digi cameras..yes once again

    Just wanted to throw in another vote for the Canons in general. Nikon makes a mean SLR and lens but their coolpix series leave a lot to be desired.
  12. City of Rocks

    Labor Day is a rad time to be in the City. I've been there at that time with great results. I've also been during 4th of July and it's way too hot unless you have the discipline to take a mid-day nap and climb in the evening.
  13. rappel device

    Strange arguing going on here. Some stuff is cast, some isn't. The original Jumar is a cast frame. The Petzl Ascension is stamped. Every carabiner out there is probably forged out of aluminum bar stock, as that's the right way to make something light that has to catch a big fall. Smart rescue units have dumped their old steel carabiners as "unnecessarily strong" or set them aside for training only. If you want some I'm sure I can get a good deal on them.
  14. South Side conditions: 2/2/2011

    Here's the one I remember. It killed one person and injured a few more. Conditions were exceedingly unstable though. The crown extended around all of West Crater Rim. I've set off size 1-2's of windslab from the bergschrund before. It's definitely something to pay attention to. Unfortunately you're often on it when you realize it. Also, this photo really illustrates the changes over time to the terrain up there! This was back in 1998.
  15. soloing the Picket Range - help!

    Standing at Luna Col should be on every Cascade climber's bucket list. Just an amazing place to spend a night!
  16. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Cotter-Bebie 1/26/2011

    Rodney you are tearing it up. Triple C's is looking fat
  17. PUBLIC MEETING WEDS 2/2/11: RAINIER CLIMBING FEES

    Silcox is not within the Mt Hood Wilderness area. Are the others you are referring to the McNeil and Cooper Spur shelters?
  18. South Sister winter climb

    You can skate w/o skins on skis to the Devils Lake TH from Mt. Bachelor via the highway, and come up the regular summer route. The return trip to Mt. Bachelor is a long hike/skin up the road. Hiking all that way sounds miserable. You could try carrying a case of PBR and stick your thumb out on the highway and the sledders would be happy to help your cause. Conditions are "firm" in the area right now, with late afternoon corn forming on south facing steeper inclines.
  19. [TR] Pine creek - 1/22/2011

    just past crown point in the gorge.
  20. soloing the Picket Range - help!

    Access Creek is not bad exiting. There is some slick heather to traverse (used crampons, even) from Luna Col and possibly some steep neve to downclimb the shoulder of Luna. After that it is an alder jungle gym for a bit then steep forest down to big beaver, where hopefully a log crossing can be found. Then it's the long grind to the boat dock, or worse, the dam.
  21. Beacon tomorrow.

    Jim looks like he's ready to go scuba diving in the Columbia.
  22. K2 Mt. Baker/Shuksan = the ultimate cascade ski mountaineering platform
  23. soloing the Picket Range - help!

    W Mac, Fury, and Challenger seem like mandatory ticks for a soloist traversing the range. Depends on your comfort level soloing that stuff. Bring along some light cord for rappelling. You might even use it for your approach and exit haha.
  24. 4x4 truck recommended to get to that junction. Some hillbillies tried to go further. Didn't turn out well.
  25. Avy Safety???

    Here is a recent discussion about probing, with some very experienced people responding on both sides of the probe question: http://straightchuter.com/2010/12/to-probe-or-not-to-probe/
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