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Greg_W

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Everything posted by Greg_W

  1. Climb: Colchuck Peak-N. E. Couloir Date of Climb: 5/22/2004 Trip Report: Bronco and I headed out to L-worth Friday night and crashed at the trailhead for about 4 hours. We were headed up the trail by 4:00a.m. and reached the lake around 6. After a snack and a fillup on water, we headed up to the base of the couloir. Despite all the weather reports, the skies were looking fine; a few snowflakes fell on occasion, no big deal (yet). We geared up on the moraine and discussed our plan. This is when I realized that I had forgotten sunglasses - the ultimate gaper move. True to my gape-ology, I was forced to wear Bronco's goggles; luckily nobody saw me all day. I led up and over the 'schrund and into the couloir. The 'schrund crossing won't be long for this world; however, there is a bypass via the rock on the left that could go. We simul-climbed about five ropelengths, finding sparse pro exactly where we needed it. I finally set up a belay to take a breather and Bronco joined me. To this point, the snow had been pretty good, with some hard sections that took good tool sticks. Bronco headed out, traversing across the avalanche chute and up into crusty, shitty snow. He was getting good pro and we headed up a left fork off the main couloir (a soon-to-be-discovered error). Eventually, the rope stopped and Bronco had a belay set up. It started snowing after a bit and soon I could no longer see the lake below. The couloir narrowed down and I climbed a few rock moves through sugary snow to a stance that Bronco had stomped out by a slung block. After some discussion, I led out, up and left, looking for a way up and off. So, far we had been making good time, but above me it looked hard. I placed some gear and made a few rock moves and got up into a small pod. The way above looked kind of nasty: slightly blocky and overhanging, beyond my level. I soon realized that we were actually on the Northeast Buttress. I saw another potential way to traverse to the Buttress crest, but it had started snowing like a sumbitch. Given the weather, and our inability to move up, I climbed back to the belay and we decided to bail. That left a bitter taste, as we new we were close to the summit. Two rappels down the steeper stuff, we started downclimbing...and downclimbing...and downclimbing...I stuck to the avy chute as much as I could since the snow was firmer and nothing was coming down. Finally we got to the 'schrund and belayed each other jumping across. A few glissades, displaying prowess in missing rocks and trees, and we were at the lake. Ran into Jens, who had just soloed NBC, stashed our soaked stuff and beat feet down. Good times! Gear Notes: two pins, 6 slings, biners, few medium nuts, 3 medium hexes, 4 screws (used two), two pickets (used 'em), ice tools, and standard gear. Approach Notes: trail snow-free for about 3-3.5 miles. Heading out, the snow was real heavy down to the lake.
  2. Post-climb Booze Preference

    Now here's a serious subject. Not some panty-waste "favorite butt-pirate boulder problem" thread. I've had some fine tequila post-climb and it goes down well. Many prefer beer. Others prefer whiskey. There are a few teatotalers that I know. What's YOUR poison?
  3. CONSULTING THE TICK LIST Woke up Sunday feeling strong. Decided to make an attempt on a classic psuedo-subalpine route I had scoped several times over the past few years: The Marymoor Park Climbing Wall. THE APPROACH After a couple of stops to provision (and pick up some cleaning products for the house) we made the trailhead. It was obvious we lost the advantage of an "alpine start" since the parking lot was busy; apparently I'm not the only one who had their eye on this gem. We packed up, located the approach trail and took off. I was planning on soloing the route, but my family was joining me on the approach. A combination of sandbagging regarding the difficulty of the approach and carrying too much gear forced us to drop most of our gear at the halfway point and go fast and light the rest of the way. My daughter worked on her orienteering skills the rest of the way; she's a toddler Nancy Feagin, that one! COMMIT OR BAIL As I reached the base of the route, the butterflies went into high gear in my stomach. I scoped my line; fighting the mindgames the rock was trying to play with me. I bailed...the weather looked questionable. Some other teams were on the route, but they looked seasoned and hardcore. Translation: Went to Marymoor on a picnic with the fam, watched gapers and gumbies flail onthe climbing wall in helmets and backpacks. Went and played on the swings. Went home.
  4. Moderators - A critique

    Here's a recent picture of Erik: http://www.spp.k12.nf.ca/amanda5.html [ 07-03-2002, 01:04 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ]
  5. Lame thread-locking motherf'ers...

    It was just getting fun...like the old days. What I wanted to say is, I like IG's scarves. Scarves means the chic likes the kinky shit, dooood. Work it, Icegirl!!!
  6. Nice, hardly used. $115 obo. PM me or e-mail at nwalpineclimberATyahoo.com. Seller pays no shipping.
  7. Size 43, never used. Retail $130, asking $110. drop me a note at nwalpineclimberATyahoo.com
  8. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    What is it with people? I heard a caller on a radio statioin yesterday relate an incident where a man cut him off on the freeway and nosed him to the shoulder. Once there, the man exited his vehicle and began berating the driver and threatening to beat the shit out of him simply because he had a "Bush/Cheney" sticker on his pickup. I've heard similar stories, some not as extreme. Who in their right mind considers this acceptable behavior? Besides that, I thought you liberals were the "tolerant" party? I guess not. That right there made me decide to put a "Bush/Cheney" sticker on my truck, and I don't put stickers on my truck (NRA & RMEF, excepted). I don't love the guy, but I hate the fact that people think it's okay to do that shit. Greg_W (anti-liberal, anti-wilderness bolting)
  9. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    Is this any worse than anti-war demonstrations? Both sides have such a right to assemble, do they not? And what, pray tell, defines them as a "nutjob station"? The simple fact that they do not agree with you? Funny, this is an example of what I am talking about. There used to be respect in political debate; it's gone. I do believe on both sides, unfortunately.
  10. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    No, Iain, I don't judge the whole pool of Kerry voters by this individual (my girlfriend's probably voting for Kerry and she's a very responsible driver). I've heard of these instances from several sources; makes me think it is not so isolated. I heard of several on Vashon.
  11. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    Huh? So, let me get this straight: you are completely discrediting this story simply due to the fact that it was reported on a Republican radio host's show? This guy that called up was a liar? This is how you judge truth? That's fucked up. Don't like the source, must be untrue? Tell me you're joking. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. You fucking people are hopeless if that's all the "proof" you need to debunk a story. A fucking joke. I don't know why I stick around, except for the mere reason that there should be an opposing viewpoint. That seems hopeless, though.
  12. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    Doug, it was a caller to John Carlson's show on KVI. He's got a Republican slant, but he's pretty fair.
  13. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    My point is, how has America gotten to the point where this type of activity is acceptable? It's not. Duh. Road rage has nothing to do with politics. The specific incident that prompted this thread WAS politically-motivated, as the perpetrator went on and on about the victim's choice of candidates (as advertised by his bumper sticker).
  14. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    My point is, how has America gotten to the point where this type of activity is acceptable? This year is the first time I EVER saw candidate signs defaced or vandalized in any way. In my experience, both sides have always been respectful of candidacy signs as a part of the election/campaign process. My point is, what happened to a society where disagreement was accepted peaceably? You want to be a "Klimber for Kerry"? Great. I'm not going to get in your face and scream at you. Who does that? What makes a person think that is okay? I haven't heard of Republicans doing this, although I am sure there are cases. I just think that it is hypocritical of those lefties who preach "tolerance" to then scream at some guy who believes a different way. It is intolerance; it is intimidation; it is WRONG. All of you who claim the "right" to voice disagreement with our President because "that is what this country is founded on" seem to give me a lot of shit for thinking how I do. Those are my points. Greg_W (free-enterpise advocate, anti-wilderness bolting)
  15. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    Actually, Chuck, this was right here in Seattle. I've heard other stories in a similar vein, as I mentioned. I understand your tactic here: discreditation by ridicule. Uncle Joe Stalin and his boys used it quite effectively in the USSR. Simply put, just because you choose not to believe something exists, or occured, doesn't make it not exist. I know you live in some sort of isolated world of liberalism-is-wonderful, but this stuff really does happen.
  16. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    As long as you hand drill, that would be okay.
  17. Road-Ragers for Kerry

    Put an NRA sticker right next to it; they'll think twice.
  18. I've heard about a lost guy up in the Enchantments and a rescue that is on-going but don't have any details. Anyone? He apparently has been out about 10 days. All this is sketch info, so please fill in. Greg_W
  19. Want to be my hot new climber girlfriend?

    and you would knoe hoe hardcore I am because????? CHICKEN Oh, she's hardcore. You just need to break her out of her suburbanite shell. I don't know what shell you are talking about there buddy
  20. barry blanchard at patagonia tonight (10/1)

    Are dogs welcome?
  21. Want to be my hot new climber girlfriend?

    and you would knoe hoe hardcore I am because????? CHICKEN Oh, she's hardcore. You just need to break her out of her suburbanite shell. I don't know what shell you are talking about there buddy
  22. the brawl is on / debate

    If you did, why did you vote for Clinton, Dukakis, or Carter? Each had limited experience in the world, had communication problems, and had their share of gaffs. Greg, that's ridiculous and you know it. Clinton and Carter are both quite clearly more experienced, worldly, and articulate than Bush. Dunno about Dukakis, I was too young when he was in the news. Everyone screws up their lines when speaking publicly, but Bush takes it to another level. Clinton and Carter have written books. Bush admits he doesn't even like to read the news. There's no contest. How was Clinton more prepared, having been the two-bit governor of some backwater state? Carter? Same thing. These guys learned on-the-job, like Reagan did, like Clinton did, Carter never learned until afterwards.
  23. Want to be my hot new climber girlfriend?

    and you would knoe hoe hardcore I am because????? CHICKEN Oh, she's hardcore. You just need to break her out of her suburbanite shell.
  24. Impact of Primal Quest on X-Dome

    We ARE the climbing community, marylou; that's why we're pissed.
  25. the brawl is on / debate

    If you did, why did you vote for Clinton, Dukakis, or Carter? Each had limited experience in the world, had communication problems, and had their share of gaffs.
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