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JosephH last won the day on May 20

JosephH had the most liked content!

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About JosephH

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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  1. The article, quite unfortunately, conflates two separate issues: a) blanket closures over large swaths of [mostly western] Federal land which are unsupported by evidence and b) targeted closures supported by evidence at climbing venues and in doing so presents them as one in the same under a title assertion which is only valid for the first of these issues. The first issue: the blanket closures of large tracts of BLM and FS land is a valid concern. It should be realized, however, that the BLM and FS resort to blanket closures because they don't have the budgets and manpower to monitor raptors over the blanket closure areas in question. That's was the case ten and twenty years ago and their budgetary and manpower situation is far worse today. The Trump administration is bending use of the BLM budget towards energy exploitation and away from conservation while the FS budget has been hammered by large-scale western wildfires which have become a new normal so neither is going to be ponying up for monitoring Raptors any time soon. Greg Orton has been tackling this issue for years and there is a case to be made for ratcheting-down these large Federal blanket closures based on population numbers. The other possibility is climbers establishing cooperative, versus adversarial, relationships with regional Federal agency offices and biologists, learning to objectively monitor raptors, and in doing so establish select, evidence-based exceptions within the larger blanket closure areas. The second issue: evidence-based targeted closures of small crags and selected faces and formations within larger crags is well-supported by the science and it ill-serves climbers to confuse and conflate these limited closures with the large blanket closures on Federal lands. Doing so does nothing to advance climbers' access agenda and is, in fact, as counterproductive and damaging to that agenda as breaking closures is as both make climbers look both ill-informed and not interested in cooperative relationships. The other issue to keep in mind is the quality/breeding performance of any given eyrie - all nesting sites are not equally desirable or productive. High-quality breeding sites should be given more priority than poorly performing ones. Unfortunately for climbers, many of the best sites are on cliffs we want to climb and we and the Raptors are selecting these sites as high-value based on similar criteria if not for the same reasons. Bottom line - not sharing is not an option so the only question is what form does that sharing take. And another reality is that shaking our fists, playing the victim, and bemoaning how unfair it all is at every single crag and face in the nation is not going to be a viable solution. The solution is trusted cooperative working relationships and objective monitoring by climbers - the latter being easier said than done as it takes time and energy [away from climbing] to monitor effectively as anyone who has done it can testify.
  2. David Lee Roth in Yosemite

    ST material: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/78334/Some-Bad-ass-dude-from-the-past http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1847303/DavidLeeRoth-does-The-Valley
  3. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Over the 44 years I've been climbing, it has always been the case the mountains have claimed a certain percentage of the best and brightest alpinists. I was born in late August in LA and raised in Chicago and the extent of my snow expertise is knowing what setting to put the snowblower on for any conditions. I always figured if the mountains claimed talented climbers who grew up among them in Aspen, Chamonix, Jackson Hole, and Zermatt then I should probably sit alpine out and stick to rock. Other than a mistaken run up a frozen Glenwood Falls in the '70, I've stuck to my no-alpine rule and only consider risk in alpine as quantitative in the gambling sense of the word. P.S. Given there's a thread here for the Snoqualmie Rock Guide Book, are we not going talk about the Cougar thing...? I was kind of hoping some of you who spend a lot of time in the N. Cascades might relate it if you've run across any Cougars in your wanderings and what their behavior was...
  4. Hood accident lawsuit

    I've lost friends up there but as far as I'm concerned, crag or mountain, if you take that first step then it's entirely on you regardless of the outcome and that's whether you get rescued or not or get rescued in time or not.
  5. Yeah, windy is a great addition... Here are some resources which collectively make for a pretty good picture of what weather is headed towards the NW at any given point in time. Taken together they can give you a good feel for exactly what's out in the Pacific all the way to Asia. It's particularly worth noting the jetstream forecast to see how strong it's going to be, if it's going to be sitting right on top of us, and if it's likely to be dragging along any bad weather with it if it is. Take note the 'Stormsurfing' site is for surfers, so you have to read through the surfing/wave aspects of what they put out - BUT - these folks carefully watch weather events across the NW Pacific as far out as Siberia and it is well worth paying close attention to what they are saying about incoming storms. Intellicast Pacific Infrared Sat Loop Intellicast - US Jetstream StormSurf - Pacific Storm Forecast StormSurf - North Pacific Surface Pressure and Wind StormSurf - North Pacific Jet Stream Wind and 250 mb Pressure
  6. partners needed

    You two would have been truly dangerous if you'd been born in Scotland.
  7. partners needed

    Knee apparently; claims he'll be good to go this summer.
  8. partners needed

    Why the inimitable Coe of course.
  9. partners needed

    Oleg the conquerer - you and Bill were both out at the same time?
  10. Fred Beckey book information request

    I never climbed with Fred, but on arriving in '87 I met several men and women who had and who warned me off doing so. All three had somewhat problematic interactions with him which were peripheral to the climbing (which they all said was great). But in the overall experience and process they ended up feeling somewhat used and abused. And in the decade that followed I heard several more such stories, but all second-hand. My own experiences with 'larger than life' individuals in arenas beyond climbing have generally left me with mixed feelings about apparent conflicts between their public personas and their private humanity. We all buy into and construct our own personal versions those public personas, but we seldom get a glimpse of the real people behind them and when we do it can be somewhat jarring to realize there can often be a messy dissonance between the two. In the end - good, bad and ugly - we hail the legend, bury the man, and life goes on; hopefully with a greater sense and awareness of our own humanity, accomplishments, and failings.
  11. sold! Sold - Pair of Boreal Fire's - 9.5 USA

    Yeah, they got used enough the red laces didn't survive. Would wear them again tomorrow if I were doing the route again.
  12. sold! Sold - Pair of Boreal Fire's - 9.5 USA

    I still have my old pair, last dug them out in 2004 and had them paved over with c4 for Epinephrine - worked like a charm and were totally comfortable.
  13. http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2018/04/climbers_dies_in_fall_at_smith.html
  14. Got them for my birthday as all-day, multipitch shoes; wore them six times on single pitch climbs with heavy socks. Never been a part of the cult of Mythos before and personally found the sole a bit thin for my taste on climbing in them. Great shoe otherwise if you like Mythos.