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David_Parker

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Everything posted by David_Parker

  1. BD Push Telemark Boots 27.5

    BD Push boots are considered one of the best ever made. These just happen to be a tad small so they must go. Shells have no more than 5 days and liners are brand new! $200 and you can free your mind! I can text you photos to show how new these are.
  2. Garmont Tower light alpine boots

    For sale, lightly used Garmont Tower GTX. $75.00. Size 9-9.5ish. Excellent condition. I love them but they are just too small for me! Probably good for medium to narrow feet. I have photos I can text/email. These are awesome cascade and olympic 3 season boots. enough flex for long approaches and stiff enough to climb rock/ice. (but not too long for front pointing ice). Think Tor-For traverse, N. Rib Mt. Fury, Mt. Olympus, N. Ridge Stuart, even Rainier! Will accept full strap on and hybrid crampons. Look pretty much like this but not exactly... Just google reviews for Garmont Tower (lite) and you'll see they are mostly 5 stars except for some dweeb who says they didn't fit. Duh!! Send text to two oh six-seven one four-fortythreehundred.
  3. Trip: Mt. Ellinor - "Scottish" Gulley Date: 12/16/2013 Trip Report: My son Jordan came home from college In Utah. He said he wanted to do a climb with me. Monday was the best forecast so we headed to Mt. Ellinor even though I've climbed it 5 or 6 times. It was foggy, but I felt confident we could get above the cloud deck. It was fairly warm too. We arrived at the parking lot and no other cars. Headed up the trail and soon came to the choice of summer route or gulley. Jordan said gulley so we went right. I expected more snow. We weaved around rocks to keep our feet in the snow. The rocks were coated in verglass. The gulley narrowed and became ice so we put on our crampons and pulled out our ice axes. This was Jordan's first time ever wearing spikes. We continued up and broke above the cloud deck into brilliant sunshine! Soon we came to a fun little ice patch flowing in from the side. This was a good opportunity to show Jordan some front pointing with 2 tools. I climbed it first then came down to coach him up. Further up we decided to make the climb more sporty so we traversed left across to some other less traveled gulleys. We chose the one on the left because it looked steeper. Here's a photo of Jordan looking down about 1/3 up. We gained the ridge and got a nice view of Rainier, St. Helens and Adams poking above the cloud deck. Another broad section looked like it might have another gulley at the top... ...which it did and ended with a few moves on rock. Then it was the final slopes to the summit. The views of the interior of the Olympics were fabulous! We then headed down, chasing the cloud deck as it broke up and it was sunny in the parking lot. By far the most fun I've had on Mt. Ellinor, climbing with my son and making a routine hike fairly sporty and "alpine"! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, x-mas tree Approach Notes: summer trail was slick on the way down. Not enough snow to glissade.
  4. [TR] Mt. Ellinor - "Scottish" Gulley 12/16/2013

    Yes, no problem getting to upper parking lot.
  5. Climb: Mt. Stuart: (winter ascent)-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 12/24/2004 Trip Report: Mt. Stuart: Attempted Winter ascent of the complete North Ridge. Wayne called me 2 weeks before Christmas and said we had a good weather window coming up the few days before Christmas. So on Tuesday, December 21, the official start of winter, we made the drive over to Leavenworth and bivied in the parking lot at the Ranger’s station. We arose early and organized our gear under the lights in the McDonalds parking lot and then headed up Icicle Creek. We crossed our fingers that the gate at Eight Mile Creek would be open. It was, but within ¾ of a mile the difficulties began. As the road became steeper it became apparent my 4-runner was not going to make it up the pure ice road. We came to a stop, tires spinning and it was all we could do to keep from sliding backwards. Wayne got out to help push against the side of the car to keep it from sliding over the edge and down into the abyss and immediately fell down. We nursed the 4-runner down to a dry patch on the side of a switchback and then proceeded to give it another shot by trying to keep two tires in the slightly softer crunchy snow on the inside shoulder. We didn’t make it past the original high point and had to nurse the car back down to the dry spot, Wayne donned crampons for better traction the second time. The only way we were going to get up this road was to put crampons on the tires, so back to Leavenworth we went. $175 and an hour later we were back at the road and this time we had no problems with 4 new chains on the tires. It was probably close to 11:00 by the time we finally started the hike on the Stuart Lake trail and up Mountaineers Creek. We carried snowshoes, but ditched them on the knoll right after crossing the creek on a log. We were following a fairly fresh set of boot tracks on top of an older set of snowshoe tracks for a while, but when they headed off in the “wrong” direction, we abandoned them. We made camp behind a large boulder just past the small bench and proceeded to decorate a small tree with our cams, picket and ropes. We wanted to have some sense of a Christmas spirit in this desolate, moonlike landscape. Laying in the tent that night, it almost seemed like day. The almost full moon was so bright I could have read a book outside. I have a difficult time falling asleep before 11:00 so while Wayne snored, the demons danced in my mind. Looming above us in plain view was the complete north ridge and so far nobody had been successful in making a winter ascent of the lower portion. The upper section had been done in winter. We hoped to connect the entire route. But who was I to think I was up to this task. I felt significantly small and unqualified. I had never even been on the lower ridge in summer and it was 1986 when I did the upper. It was also 1986 the last time I jumarred and Wayne said I would be doing quite a bit. We waited until daylight to make breakfast and gear up for the day. We hiked up onto the moraine below the Ice Cliff glacier and followed its sweeping curve around to the base of the North Ridge. Sheltered from the wind behind a large boulder, we donned harnesses and racked up and Wayne started up some 4th class rock which proved more difficult then it looked. Not wanting to place gear yet, we searched further left for a better access and found a steep snow gully which brought us to the base of the first pitch. Our plan was to fix two rope lengths and return to camp for the night. Wayne actually aid climbs quite fast, and after some difficulty with a squeeze slot where he had to take off his pack, he tied off the rope. I jugged and off Wayne went for pitch 2. This section is steep and surmounts a small overhang. I worked out the bugs of jumarring, and joined Wayne at a stance by a small tree. Above loomed a long thin crack, not vertical, but steep. The going was slower here because there was ice in the crack. Wayne informed me he actually used his breath to melt some ice for a few placements. He watched cams shift on ice. When a loop of rope hanging down caught on something, I had to untie my end and drop it down in an attempt to free it. It barely gave Wayne enough rope to reach the top where he made an anchor of one pin, one ice screw and 2 cams. He then rapped and cleaned while I pulled out our second rope and readied it for the rap to the ground. It was extremely windy, but we got down with out any issues and descended back to camp. We chose an easier route than going back down the moraine by following a snow gully and skirting the lower boulder field on the far side. This set us up for an easier ascent in the morning. It was about 4:00 by the time we got back. Fixing 3 pitches had taken o lot longer than we thought. The moon and demons were in full effect that night. I knew tomorrow would be a big day and we had no idea what conditions would be like on the ridge. I questioned myself why I did this. I knew once on the ridge, retreat would be difficult until we reached the notch where the regular route joined. Thank god for sleeping pills. We awoke at 2:30 and were off by 3:45. We carried no bivy gear. We geared up at the large boulder. It was my first time jumarring by headlamp, but by the time we were up the second rope, it was just beginning to dawn. Above we could see the summit shrouded in clouds, and it was extremely windy. Weather was moving in. We debated going down, but talked ourselves out of it. The ridge looked incredibly steep and exposed. The demons came back and I pushed them away as Wayne headed up the next pitch in the early morning light. He was aiding again, but informed me it was only a short section and I should just aid myself and not mess with the ascenders. Once I began climbing again, things calmed down for me. My focus was only at each small task or move at hand and my concentration kept the elements at bay. For the first time since leaving Seattle, I actually felt settled. It was just me and the mountain and my focus on climbing. Nothing else penetrated to mess with my head. I don’t remember each pitch, just different sections. As we moved up, dry rock became more iced with verglass. We each had one regular ice tool and a small Grivel third tool. I carried etriers and the jumars bundled on my gear loops on my left side. Wayne lead all the pitches for speed. The ice runnel pitch should have been my lead, but Wayne was cold and wanted to move again. It was a fabulous pitch of thin ice that snaked up through the rocks. “Super Alpine” I called it and I secretly imagined myself climbing in Chamonix. An easier snow slope brought us up into an alcove with only one way out, a traverse across polished slab. Wayne tensioned and then climbed with his tools in verglass and boots on slab, then up over a small roof. Above the terrain became more blocky with much more ice filling the voids and the climbing became true mixed. We donned crampons and climbed with both tools. Many moves consisted of moving across a bulge of rock onto thin ice. Unconsolidated snow filled the cracks and crevasses and needed clearing. At one point we abandoned the true ridge and climbed on the face to the right for 4 or 5 pitches before we could regain it. Finally, I lead a short section of rotten snow that required much clearing to regain the ridge. It was steep and there was about an inch crust and underneath, loose granular snow. The crust would break in large slabs and slide down, and the 18 inches of snow underneath was not bonded to the rock and wouldn’t accept any weight. I was afraid of the whole thing sliding. I excavated to rock for the last few moves and flopped onto the ridge. It was 4:00. One more tricky traverse brought us to the notch and there was no question as to which way to go. We were out of time and the entire upper ridge, although bathed in moonlight, would be another full day. We rigged a rap and headed down. The gully was much steeper and longer than I remembered and we ended up making 4 rappels combined with steep down climbing. The Stuart Glacier was awash in moonlight. We packed the ropes and gear and began our long walk back to camp. I don’t think I’ll have a more memorable Christmas Eve. This high alpine environment was almost surreal in the bright moonlight. I was warm and content with what we had done. We hadn’t made the summit, but had climbed the often attempted lower section. We never stopped the whole time and we got to the tent by 8:15. Wayne immediately crawled in, while I made hot drinks. We were too tired to eat, but I lingered outside for another hour enjoying the view. The demons were gone and I was content. Later, I would have the uncanny feeling that it was someone else who did the climb. The next day, Christmas, we hiked out in deteriorating weather. The drive over Stevens Pass was in a full snowstorm. At least for a while, we had a white Christmas. Gear Notes: full rack, one ice screw, ascenders, 2 ropes Approach Notes: Chains required for Eight Mile road if still open. We did not need snowshoes for Mountaineer Creek approach, but maybe neccessary now.
  6. Nice write up Kurt! I'm liking the multi-sport aspect of the Ski-in if conditions are not optimal. Last year was killer skiing both days. But I thoroughly enjoyed our 2 great Mountain Bike rides with Dave Perkins and Brandelle. The ride out at Buck Mountain is amazing with the smooth flowy trails, wild flowers galore and killer views of the mountains. Dry and dusty in May! The biking around the Rendez-vous hut system is not too shabby either. We even did a car shuttle downhill ride! I hope this write up serves to get more people back to this annual tradition. I think there was one party a while back where we had at least 30 people. So just remember, this happens every year within a weekend or 2 of the North Cascades HWY opening. Next year will be #13! See you there!
  7. SKI FEST- 12th annual in Mazama

    The 12th annual North Cascades Ski Fest is this weekend, May 11-12. We have a new venue this year so for directions, PM Feck and he will send you google directions. This event is primarily to ski off the North Cascades Hwy either at WA or Rainy Pass typically and then congregate for great food, drink and party at a common campground. Climbers and Mt. Bikers also welcome. We have a camp spot for Friday and Saturday and Sunday too if you want to stay longer. So tell your friends who got shut out for Mother's Day on St. Helens and come ski the sunny side of the Cascades! You don't have to wear a dress!
  8. SKI FEST- 12th annual in Mazama

    Looks like the weather will be better on the east side this weekend. Come on over!
  9. Ski In 2013 May 11-12

    Just a reminder, the 12th annual Ski Fest is this weekend, May 11-12. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/cfrm Come ski, split-board, climb, bike the sunny side of the Cascades! We will need firewood and a barbque grill or 2 so please let us know if you can bring either/both. We are camping so if anyone has a large tarp in case of rain that's good too.
  10. Ski In 2012

    A little clarification: This is the 11th annual Ski-In and it is open to all who want to join in on a great time with some conditions. We are camping on private property and I need a rsvp as a courtesy to the owners. You can post here if you are coming with a group count or get in touch with me thru a PM. For those of you who have come before, you know where it is. If you need directions, get in touch with me. We have a great camping area, firepit, barbeques and access to the Methow River. So come get some fresh corn snow and party with us!
  11. Ski In - Mazama 2012

    A little clarification: This is the 11th annual Ski-In and it is open to all who want to join in on a great time with some conditions. We are camping on private property and I need a rsvp as a courtesy to the owners. You can post here if you are coming with a group count or get in touch with me thru a PM. For those of you who have come before, you know where it is. If you need directions, get in touch with me. We have a great camping area, firepit, barbeques and access to the Methow River. So come get some fresh corn snow and party with us!
  12. Washington/Ellinor Road Conditions??

    Anyone have an update?
  13. Avalanche discussion thread

    Thanks for sharing the Utah report. I just spent over an hour reading other ones and I really like how they cover their accidents in depth. Very detailed analysis WE ALL CAN LEARN FROM! I like this one as it talks about the social aspects... http://utahavalanchecenter.org/accident_wall_voodoo_12142008 Spend some time reading these reports, they may help save your life!
  14. Avalanche discussion thread

    A lot of intelligent posts here at CC.com and so kudos to all those sharing their views. Guess it's my turn... This event has affected me deeply because it has once again demonstrated the false sense of security that comes with possessing the "required" equipment to travel in the backcountry. Mt. Guide's posts are excellent and brings to light all that really needs to be considered. I have always maintained that accidents that lead to death are a tragedy. Tragedy's are almost always NOT a singular event, but rather a cavalcade of small errors in judgement. The Steven Pass accident imo demonstrates this. The avalanche itself was the defining moment, yet it could have and should have been avoided. I was backcountry skiing at Stevens Pass that day. I have also skied exactly where they went that day. When I found out the details of when and where, all I thought was "what were they (not) thinking?" I have sought and read as much of the online media versions of the accident and so much of the focus has been on the equipment and the fact they were "experienced". I read between the lines and there have been a couple good comments or quotes (paraphrased): "you can't wave your avalanche beacon at the slope and make it safe". "Whereas the focus of avalanche safety courses was originally all science, more and more the focus has shifted to the social aspect as well." Beacons are for body recovery and you must always be objective in your decisions in choosing your ski routes. Nowhere has anyone mentioned the number one piece of safety equipment we all carry with us: our brains. But like your transceiver, you must know how to use it. I believe there were intense social pressures that day that caused brain malfunction. We had the director of Marketing at Steven Pass showing clients from Powder Magazine and ESPN a good time at his resort. In an effort to show them the really cool stuff to ski, they elected to ski the backcountry and headed to the Tunnel Creek Drainage. This becomes backcountry, not Sidecountry because unless you are all carrying skins, the only way out is down, no matter what conditions you run into. 25 feet down from the top, they were totally committed. So here are my questions: 1. Did they check the NWAC report? (Considerable to high) 2. Were they carrying topo maps and thus aware the slope was 27 degrees or higher? 3.Did they consider carrying skins in case they encountered the conditions they should have expected to ensure a bail out option? 4. Were ALL the members in the group truly aware of where they were going and the risks, or were some following and trusting someone else? I believe the Stevens Pass accident demonstrates the growing social aspects of side/back counrty skiing that puts pressure to ski where you shouldn't, that "experience" can lead to complacency and that your saftey equipment can help you, but won't save you from death. I am truly saddened for the family and friends of those killed on Sunday. I hope their accident can serve to educate other skiers to make better choices and ski safely. I never did give anybody hell. I just told the truth, and they thought it was hell. Harry S. Truman
  15. I'm getting my son some new skis and want to get him some alpine touring bindings for occaisional sidecountry/backcountry. Does anyone have any feedback on the Dynastar Legend Alpine Touring Ski Bindings. If you or anyone you know has used them let me know. I just want to make sure they hold up for resort skiing. There is a great deal available for brand new 2009 models for only $119. http://www.evo.com/outlet/alpine-touring-ski-bindings/dynastar-legend-92mm-brakes.aspx
  16. Fury N Buttress - approach beta?

    Whatever you do, do Not try to go up or down Luna Creek!
  17. [TR] Torment-Forbidden Traverse - 8/20/2011

    Neither of those bivys have late sun or a great view. Just 30 ft. past the one Val and party used, to the south and up another short rock scramble is a great one in the late sun and a direct view of JBerg, Cascade pass and Glacier Peak and all around....
  18. [TR] Torment-Forbidden Traverse - 8/20/2011

    Great job and photos! I was in the party of two guys just ahead of you three. We did a few things slightly different. One, we bivied just around the corner and up on dry rock. I heard you guys down in the snow hole the next morning. Two, we just rapped into the moat off the Torment Ridge and easily climbed out. 3. We did not rap into the bergshrund but rather climbed rock, rapped into a gulley and then went on the ridge above the steep snow slope traverse. I have a couple of awesome photos of you guys crossing from directly above! 4. We were just able to cross the raging river (scary) and get down at dusk. BTW, what did you use for an anchor to rap into the schrund?
  19. [TR] Johannesburg Mtn - NE Buttress 8/21/2011

    There are no peaks I can think of off the top of my head that replicate the snow experience found on JBerg's upper NE Buttress.. it's definitely one of a kind in my experience. The North Butress of Fury has a very similar snow arette at the top. The approach is a tad longer though!
  20. [TR] Mt Cruiser - West/Southwest Corner 8/21/2011

    I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO impressed you actually took a ferry to do a climb! Welcome to my world!!! Good for you to check out the other range in WA! Pretty nice wouldn't you say! BTW, that photo on the needle brought back a lot of memories of no pro on pillow lava! I lead that pitch too when Wayne and I did the Sawtooth traverse... Never underestimate the Olympic Range, there is serious relief there too! Btw, Mildred lakes may look shorter on a map but time wise you did the right thing...
  21. [TR] Johannesburg Mtn - NE Buttress 8/21/2011

    It was fun looking at that route from across the valley and knowing you were on it. I have photos taken from the Tor-For traverse....I'll trade you! BTW, early Friday morning, as the sun first hit the hanging ice on the slabs above the bottom-middle of the CJ couloir, a huge hunk fell off and just pummled the route including a huge rock. Anyone getting an early start to go up the CJ would unlikely have survived.
  22. Fury N Buttress - approach beta?

    I concur with Wayne. Stay closer to the stream going up Access Creek. Also, don't under estimate the route finding getting back to Luna Col after you summit.
  23. My son needs some mountaineering boots. Something with a wider forefoot are. Something you can attach crampons but don't need to front point. Olympic Mts, Rainier, etc but ok to walk on trails. What do you have or recommend? please email: dpparker60 at hotmail dot com
  24. Ski In 2011

    Since the owners of the property are gracious to let us use it for this annual event, we do want a general idea of how many will be attending. While drop ins are totally ok, we just want a feel for it. So please post your intentions and let us know...Thank You!
  25. Ski In 2011

    PS: I think this is our 10th Ski-in!
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