layton

This subject doesn't seem like it's been beat to death yet. What are your favorite carabiners for different situations and why? There's a lot of new choices out there... Cams -I've been using the newer update of the CAMP nano to keep the rack light and consolidated. The pros are obvious, but the cons are my rack is almost over-consolidated and the nose hangs up on my gear sling something awful. Nuts - I use an old lightweight oval(ish) Mammut wiregate. I like the oval shape to keep the nuts in place and the notch on the nose helps keep the nuts from falling off. Slings -For doubleing up slings I've been using the Black Diamond OZ. It's very light with a large gate opening. Quickdraws -also using the BD OZ and what's left of my Petzl Spirit bent gates. I like the petzl because of the smooth action. Belay -Alpine: the Trango Superfly d/t it's light weight. Multipitch rock- the Petzl Attache 3D. Craggin': either a superlocker, or the new Black Diamond Gridlock. I like keeping the biner from crossloading, but it's a total pain in the ass (with the Gridlock) and I fear I may drop my belay device one of these days. Daisy -Trango superfly locker. It (I think) is the lightest locker out there and it doesn't get a lot of wear and tear as my daisy biner. Aid -Using the new Petzl Attache 3D on the jugs and anchors. Light and big. For the aiders I use an oval wiregate. Spare locker for anchors, etc. -Also the Petzl Attache-3D Ice Screws: still using the Petzl Spirit bent gates. Free Biners for anchor bolts, misc, camera, rock shoes, etc: CAMP nanos seem to be choice for this. Pitons: Oval wiregates. I'd love to find a racking biner for cams that's light and trim, but easier to deploy cams from the rack. I'm thinking the new Petzl wiregate biners. As for Slings and quickdraws: For alpine I've been using the Black Diamond spectra/nylon draw. It seems just a bit beefier than that mammut sling that started it all (and that I Won't climb on). Theres a sling I can't find (ok haven't tried) I think by Bluewater that is even beefier than the BD, but still light and trim. Anyone? For cragging double slings I use the fatty nylon BD or Metolius slings for safety. I hate cragging with those micro slings. As for quickdraws, Petzl seems to make a great draw, but mine are so dated. Double legnth slings: I haven't used a double length sling in a long long time. I occasionally bring ONE Rabbit Runner if I think I might need it for wandery routes or slinging on ice climbs. What about anchor cords? I've got a sweet nylon/kevlar 5mm cord that's really supple and light, but I really don't want to sacrifice it for TAT...so recently I've just been bringing a 6mm perlon cord. And finally TAT! I bought a spool of supertape (that 5/16th shit you tie off hooks with) and have been using it for years. I used to use 6mm perlon until I found my source. I actually used all my old Mammut lightweight slings for tat after I decided I wouldn't climb with them anymore. I'd love to hear what y'all like and why!

hate to break it to you but I got a Brazilian at the spa before I climbed it

cool comparison. however, if weight is an issue then you wouldn't be using >9.4mm lead lines to begin with

Pros: -2 ropes for rapelling good for wandery/traversy pitches if clipping both -extra margin of safety for chopped ropes -not as tangly as a rap cord for double rope raps -extra margin of safety if you have to reclimb to unstick a rope -don't have to carry another rope in the 2nds pack, or repeatedly pull and coil at each belay Cons: -generally heavier than a lead line with a rap cord -can create a clusterfuck when dealing with 2 ropes belaying the 2nd on a hanging belay. -more impact force on a piece if clipping both together -difficult(clusterfuck) if leader is clipping lines separately and climbing difficult terrain (hard to pull up rope in time for takes and watch-me's) On alpine routes I prefer doubles unless the terrain is clean, steep and hard, then I'd rather just deal with the mess of one line. If you are aiding and or hauling forget the doubles.

actually that's just a rumor wayne. Erik wrote it as much as I did so we're gonna split it 50/50. so after living in Utah for almost 4 years and hopping on a few towers, I can't say enough how impressive Joe's trip was. A 2-5 pitch tower feels like a 25 pitch granite climb

That poster is awesome!! I love the letter K

don't like the ACR system - it's not "SERENE" unless you clove the pieces - at which point you say why not just use a cordalette or webolette? I'd rather have imperfect equalization than shockloading with extension.

i use all my pitons in anger

thanks for the votes on that one. we really tried to make an honest from our perspective TR. It degenerates into a festering shitpile towards the end of the posts, and that makes me so proud to share the link with family members. Hopefully Jim has a nice selection of blow, cuz the prize is going straight up my nose.

We are in agreement good sir

a 40 of aluminum or titanium reserve would be lighter

Should be directed at climbers in Colorado. Pickiest eaters I've ever met

I can probably meet you on a given sat-tue if you drove by your lonesome

please post the Joshua tree album cover with the mounties!

take some whippers on it to stretch it out

i'd say something but too much respect every time I see Ament's chimney

yeah! (it's gray though)

my Fox is different. it is hollow and doesn't have the rubber grip

Dane, sounds like you should remake the Fox! That little fucker has saved my ass so many times

nice Darin! Yeah, I can't believe how much I disliked Riddler's Delight. Did you tape up for it

the Fox is no longer made, right? I was concidering the Alp Monster (or lil monster?) if I ever lost/broke my fox. Damn I love the fox!

oh shop and compare is ... ok. Splitter is pretty good though. Womens final route is unbelievably shity

hostess gully is good, crackhouse sucks. the long easy bolt climbs are so boring. The comp wall has some fun routes. All in all, the city of rocks near parking lot rock to breadloaves is waaaaay better.

it does it all which no other belay device can claim, but doesn't do the best at all. Pros: double rope rappel and the ability to autolock on rapell for added security and fucking with gear autolocks lead belay can be used to rope solo can be used as an ascender clipped to harness with ascender on aider above for "frog" style jumaring autolocks 2nd autolocks on TR belay (AWESOME!) you can clip the biner outside the device to disable the autolock and it belays very smooth. I've used it in all of these situations. It is very lightweight compared to other autolocking devices. A perfect example I where it shines was for example, last weekend on Touchstone. Used it to casually belay leader on aid pitch (since it autolocks I was giving a more casual "gri gri" belay). I then jugged the line with it on my harness and an jumar/aider on top. I led the next pitch and shortfixed with it as a self belay until my partner got to the anchor and put me back on. I used it to belay him up "reverso" style on the free pitches. On the descent I had it in autoblock rappel mode for the unknown raps, and in free sliding mode for the easy raps. The rope got stuck and I used it to pull/lock myself up the rope to unstick the knot. I wouldn't use it for hard sport belaying, but when you need one device to do the job, or on alpine climbs where a lightweight autolocking leader belay device and on sketchy reppeling routes, I'd take it over anything else. It's also good to give to a noob if you're sketched on his/her belaying or rapelling ability. Cons: heavier than an ATC takes some time to learn not as smooth as gri gri2 for lead belaying or soloing doesn't work well above a 9.8mm rope works much better with a cross-load limiting biner such as the BD Gridlock or DMM one. Best use: alpine rope soloing alpine climbs where an autolocking belay device for lead belaying and2 rope rappel back-up would be nice top roping moderate aid/free climbing Wost: Sport or hard trad belaying I'd bring a gri-gri2 for hard aid or extensive rope-soloing, and sport/hard trad belaying that do not require 2 rope raps. I'd bring a reverso (or an ATC/Gi-Gi combo) for alpine/long climbs that require a 2 rope rapell, the pitches require precise paying out of rope. But remember, clipping to the outside disables the the autolocking function (except while bringing up the 2nd) so it pays out rope very smoothly. I'll be using it as my go-to belay device for everything but cragging from now on. The autolocking ability is just too damn handy. You never know when a hands free lead belay, rappel, or stuck rope re-ascension will come in handy...and that shit is handy

Has anyone found anything similar to the Simond Fox?