layton

i'm making a free-standing system training wall in my condo. Adding a kicker board may exceed my carpentry skills. How important is it really if I'm just doings system laps for power and endurance? I've boiled the support structure down to two choices. Having the vertical support beams holding the wall up 1.) coming down from the top of the wall. pros: less material and more support. cons: posts get in the way 2.)having a frame behind the wall with a couple posts in front, low down so they are out of the way pros: no posts in the way cons: more material to build stable frame

i'm a fan of Saltstick caps. I keep a few wrapped in tinfoil in my chalkbag zipper pocket. I;ve been totally geeking out on this crap. I've gotten wicked bad cramps on two times on long climbs but it was enough to carry some insurance. My system: In my 3L water bladder I put two Nuun tablets in. Tastes great, no cottonmouch or extreme urge for "normal water" like you do with sugar based sports drinks. For all day climbs in hot weather, I bring 3L of water. 2L for almost anything else. Next in a 16oz nalgene or 1L collapsible platypus (either clipped to my harness or in my pack easily accessible) I put one scoop of regular No-Explode and one scoop of no-cafeine No-Explode and two scoops of Accelerade Hydra (although I've been switch to 1st Endurance when I'm out). This powerful brew has about 300cal, some protein, plenty of electrolytes, nitrous buffers, creatine, etc. etc. I drink sips of this throughout the climb, while staying hydrated with my Nuun (by the way bring back the Cola flavor damnit!) I carry the salt-stick pills with a Gu Chomp or Shot Block energy chaser as a crash-kit. I actually take this two steps further At night (I've found that my stomach can't handle much in the morning) I take a Ca/Mg/Zn/D multi to cover the other electrolytres (enough so I get 1gram of Ca). I wash this down with a vile brew of green super food. In a tiny nalgene spice bottle I put one scoop of powered greens (i forget the name but it's $$ and from whole foods) and one shot of Alive liquid greens. For food on the climb I take either a big sandwich and a couple packs of gummies, or a combo of: olive oil and sea salt almonds, couple slices of cheese, meat stick, dried mangos or apricots, raw nutrition or probar, and 2-3 packs of energy gummies...sometimes a bag of shot rocks at the top if the descent is long. other things would be to chug water at camp, and in the morning before the climb. Have miso soup for your hot drink for extra salt. and have a solid dinner and breakfast with lots of fat and protein.

both those sound better than the crappy options i've seen in shops around slc or rei

just how bad are the mosquitoes - I hear they are legendary. big damper on the trip?

after running out of my yummy costco mangos, i went on the hunt for those canadian fruit and veggie bars that are really good dru posted. They are really hard to get in the USA and are really expensive regardless. The "+ Veggie" is carrot - that's it. So screw it. the landjeager at the local german deli here in SLC is gross, so I'll be hunting that down next

warrior one is a POS

like I said, not the best, but better than what's out there for me. I do like the camelbak plastic a lot better. if that connector port didn't leak, I'd be happy.

jaberwocky tower was the best guess at the time i think. that's a shame the guidebook gets you off route at the money shot pitch. I wasn't putting a lot of time into making topos/route descriptions (as evidenced by my Boola Boola Buttress "Thank you Baby Jesus" topo). Lotta baby names now that I think about it? folks doing the last "pitch" at the summit plateau? that's cool there are raps now, but the walk off is lovely through the flowers. do you need 2 ropes? We climbed as a part of three with a cow's tail on one rope (two following at the same time). Is my off route nut still in the roof?

I'm really picky about my hydration system. So after a couple leaky bottles, I think I found the winner: Platypus Big Zip 100oz. Osprey system not reviewed since I haven't used it and it looks heavy and I hear it leaks Platypus Big Zip Pros: Detachable drinking tube that has a swivel and doesn't leak. Large zipper to fill water, add ice, and clean/dry. Hold 100oz. On/Off valve. Light. Cons: Same as every other bladder - the L shaped "ergo" bite valve. I hate these, make them straight damnit!!!! Very tall for small packs. Bottom line: not the best (too tall and bite valve too big/L-shape snags on everything)but the best option. Camleback Antidote - the big loser Pros: Light (platypus big zip still lighter), holds 100oz, detachable hose (see cons), looks cool. Flexible material. Cons: L-shaped port, on/off is flimsy, bite valve comes off easily, .... AND IT FRIGGIN LEAKS. Yes that's right. I've gotten two and both leak at the detachable hose. All my packs have had tons of moisture at the bottom and after screwing around I've found that if you torque the hose at the port, it leaks. Both ones I've tried. Bottom line: Worthless POS with a big ad campaign. MSR Dromedary and dromlight Pros: light, durable material. Comes in large sizes Cons: no 3L version. Bite valve is enormous and L-shaped. Nothing easy to hold it open to fill = spilling. Awkwardly shape for most small pack hydration sleeves. Must have it facing out or it pokes in your back. Need to buy drinking tube separate = expensive! Soft Bottle Review: Nalgene Wide Mouth (not a drinking tube system) Pros: light, packable water bottle that holds 2 liters Cons: It leaks Bottom line - worthless Platypus soft bottle Pros: same as above Cons: small opening Bottom line: at least it doesn't leak, but could use a wide mouth opening. Platypus Water Tank Pros: light and easy to fill for lots a water (1-2 gallon) Cons: for something like this, I'd want at least a 10 L version. Platypus Wine Bottle: Pros: holds alcohol without having plastic leach into your drink, packs your alcohol up nice and compact. Wayne and I put some really high proof drink into a regular platypus once and it tasted like paint thinner by the time the plastic leached into it. Cons: could hold more - A zipper opening would be nice to clean it better.

Seems to me that this site had a new policy of prohibiting personal attacks... yet I see that the ridicule of this Buckaroo fellow continues in a different venue. Just sayin'. Didn't read a lick of this thread, but I gotta give Raindawg props for the funniest photo

holy crap your photos are amazing

i checked it out at the OR show. It was buried in the back, no tags, anything. There wasn't a place to test it. I think if it places easier than a big bro (which shouldn't be hard to pull off) and is more compact than a valley giant, it would be a worthwhile piece of gear...if it actually works. and I was joking about the clack

this has nothing to do with most of this but out here in utah there's a lot of old dangerous "historical" bolts. When they were place, the bolts weren't historical. they were new.

so here's a question.... for alpine routes where weight matters over design quality (ie camalots) - what's the cam out there (accounting for expansion range).

so I added up the range and weights for helium vs C4s I only used similar sizes from .5 C4 to the biggest helium since below a .5 I prefer a mastercam by far. Anyway, BD has a bigger overlap (more range per cam) resulting in one less cam with a tad more range and weighing 98 grams less. BD wins in weight and range. save your money.

i was also thinking how fumbly the white one would be

CAMP makes two micro tricams, smaller than the pink now. Anyone use them? Uses? For that matter, anyone use the bigg'uns? (3-7). Why?

i'm excited about the Kong Clack! http://www.kong.it/doc/KONG_JOURNAL/KONG_journal_EN.10.01.pdf

omg how did i miss this thread!

Can I sign the petition AND buy a nice little home?

"Unlike hoosers like me I suspect Ueli doesn't really care all that much about the gear but more about the climbs and where he is at physically. Gear has seldom definded the limit of what is possible." Too true. The old guard still continues to kick my ass. I probably climb at a cutting-edge 1950s standard, sewing it up with my new fancy gear.

Thanks. I looks like the guy who designed the genie designed the new Cierzo packs. .. so I assume he didn't have a hand in the new Genie.

and you'll make friends for life

hell yes!

cool thanks!