Trip: Quartz Mountain - Training Day Trip Date: 07/14/2018 Trip Report:
Looking for a long route somewhat close to Seattle, we ran across Training Day in the new Snoqualmie Rock guide by Kurt Hicks. We had never heard of it before, and it sounded like it was just what we were looking for. 13 pitches, with about an hour long approach, and a short drive from Seattle.
Ornulf and I met up in Issaquah at 5:45, and after a quick drive started hiking at 6:30. After a half hour on the CCC Trail, we turned left and started up hill. There was no trail, but we kept heading upward. The forest was relatively open, with minimal bushwhacking. The last few hundred yards to the base had some bushwhacking, but nothing too obnoxious.
The start of the climb was not fully obvious, but it looked like one could take any of a few different paths on the first pitch. we went up the left side of the base, and went just right of a roof.
The first few pitches were straight forward, and not too difficult. Then at pitch 4, the difficulty started to increase. As the difficulty increased the number of bolts increased. Any move that was somewhat difficult generally had a bolt right next to it. Some would argue there were too many bolts, and we did not end up clipping all of them, but for those less experienced with slab they will be much appreciated. Pitch 7 was the crux pitch, and was a continuous 5.10a slab, and heavily bolted. This pitch had the 22 bolts. Only downside to this pitch, was that it ended with about 15 feet of pulling on cedar trees to get to the anchor. Pitch 9 was the second crux, with some high steps to get through a couple of small roofs.
After pitch 9, the climbing quality decreases as the climb starts to traverse up and left towards the notch. the rock is covered a bit more in moss/lichen and there are more trees to grab/climb through. though getting to the notch is pretty cool, and you get some great views. Plus, after the 13th pitch, the rap line is essentially straight down, and straight forward, with clean rope pulling. only challenge is the ~200m of bushwhacking back to the start.
Route finding throughout the climb was straight forward with a few spots where you look around, but then it becomes pretty clear. The descriptions in the guidebook are spot on, though the ratings might be high (but I have mostly been climbing at index), plus some of the lengths in the guidebook seemed to be a bit short. We used 2 60m half ropes, and they were perfect. . There was some run outs on the easier ground but we never felt that we needed more gear/bolts. the guidebook also called for a double rack up to #3. Overall we only placed 6 or 7 pieces throughout the full climb. So, bring a light rack up to #2 (we placed the #3, but you could have placed the #2 if needed).
Overall it was a fun day out. I definitely recommend the route to others looking for a long climb off the beaten path.
looking up at the start of P1. we went up here and right of the roof.
top of p1, looking up.
looking down p3
looking up p6, which goes up and left.
looking up p8
Ornulf getting ready to pull on the cedars at the top of p7.
looking across p13 towards the notch and the great view. p13 is a short traverse that lines you up for the plumb rap line
looking up towards the notch, 2 raps down.
Gear Notes:
22 draws, and a light rack up to #3 Approach Notes:
The new Snoqualmie Rock description is pretty solid. There is no trail up to the base. After you start up the hill off the CCC Trail, just keep going up and join the drainage and go up until the rock is there on your left, and bushwhack a short way to the base
