layton

you can put your weed in there

Not sure if I'd agree with that Mike. Ueli has climbed 5.14 as well as free climbed El Cap. I'd say he could play in the same league as Chris. Ueli believes that a modern day alpine climber should be able to climb at a hight level in each discipline, not just big icy mountains. Chris on the other hand... Not sure he'd survive half the places Ueli goes. you got me, i don't know ueli so I just assumed. dude is a monster

You can tear out most pages in the chi running book (the fluff). Check out evolution running dvd. No fluff. The pose running book is like a fluffy version of the chi running book but in more western/medical jargon. still mostly filler. What i haven't done is examined the differences between the three techniques. ....or gone running in a while

A 50lb pack on a 200lb person will be just as heavy and grueling on the same person who lost 50 lbs of fat. Lose the weight on both. If you want train for a climb, do similar stuff. Want to climb 5.12 cracks on granite. You have to be climbing cracks on granite outside of your comfort level - a lot. Indian creek on spring break won't do you the same favor as Yosemite. Want to climb Rainier car to car? Slap on a heavy pack and grind up hills. If you don't have a goal, your training will be more difficult. So pick a goal. The "other" climbs you want to do will not suffer. Train for them specifically later. All the gym jones and crossfit in the world, as well as the lightest gear will not make you a better technical climber. That said, all the sport climbing in the world won't get you up Denali any faster. You have to pick what kind of climber you want to be. Uli Steck or Chris Sharma? In their home court, the other would be a weakling. If you are like me and enjoy it all and still have ridiculous hope of being great, then pick your weakest link and go from there. Are you 100lbs overweight? Lose the weight. Is your gear circa 1960 REI? Get new gear. Can you cruise moderate trad all day but get shut down on 5.11s? Go cragging. Can you crank at Smith but the West Ridge of Forbidden takes you three days? Sign up for crossfit and slog up hills. I am a gear WHORE. That said, I have NEVER EVER been shut down because of my gear. 70% of the time it's mental fortitude (not sucking it up and getting it done) or poor planning (i.e. I want to do route A even though route B has better weather,etc), and the other 30% is technique (considering I chose routes within my "grade"), partner issues, weather, or bad luck. If I just sucked it up and didn't care how tired I was going to be at work on monday or being afraid of falling, my success rate would tripple. So I started doing more crossfit, and high intensity stuff to up my work capacity and increase my energy/stamina. Sure helped. Now if I could only climb that goddamned red camalot off hand routes at indian creek and not be afraid of falling. If you take a look at the folks who are your peers, but are much much better than you, take a look at their lifestyle. I guarantee they have jobs (or no jobs) that allow them to climb more than you and have heavier gear. The other thing that makes us crazy is the person with natural talent and/or a diminished fear mechanism. And if you are suffering over this thread looking for answers, like me, you probably don't have it either.

that's been on my tic for some time...thanks for renewing the stoke!

I decided not to put those tricks in my book, but maybe I will for the 2nd edition. I figured pulling ice axes down on your head seemed way risk...plus what if it didn't work? Then you are fucked. Why not bury a deadman..or better yet- downclimb?

thank you

Triangle question I'd like to make a 50 degree wall inside my condo. My ceiling is 7 foot 4 inches. How long can I make the wall?

free solo and dulfursitz the rap line

maybe they should make some pomade rope wax we can glisten up our ropes with ... for the new partner or lady

you want rope proof from nicwax. sterling doesn't make their anymore. Does it work...I don't think it's worth the money, fairly expensive and totally fucks up the machine. However, I do like how it turned my fuzzy stiff rope into a supple smooth rope

I really really REALLY feel sorry for the guide at AAI if I wind up winning.

i emailed metolius and they basically said putting thread through the rope would just pull out very quickly and they don't recommend it. Pretty much my expected response, didn't wanna argue, and they had a point. However, i'm sure something could be rigged to keep that thread in there.

i love the thread idea! metolius ropes do this, although my has rubbed off. I though maybe some fishing supply store would have something useful. maybe a fussy lure, tie a big knot in the middle to wedge it inside the core, do it a few times? shit even fur off of a brightly colored stuffed animal? may be worth a shopping trip to the fishing store, or the arts and crafts store (Michaels comes to mind). My next rest day has never purpose. problem I see with the bi-weave is that one side inevitable stretches out longer than the other side. do you think this is true? I don't know since I've never owned one.

oh, i thought it was the twin sisters in bellingham

that's so awesome. how cool to find undiscovered ice near Bham

Is it really true? We need a historian to go over the highlights, the sprayers, the drama. So much has "happened" on this site. Basically, we need an homage. How about a top 100 list of all that's gone on: TRs, Threads, Drama, folks who have come and gone... I mean come on! Dan H? Trask? Capt Caveman? Ascensionist.com? Someone's gotta do a full-blow documentary

way to get after it! nice to see you post a TR

preferably w/ some goddless hobo you've picked up off the street, free of all social graces and incapable of controlling most bowel functions should be easy in anchorage

mayo is nature's nickwax

way to go guys!!! finding that magic window of weather, a partner as motivated as you, being able to take off work/leave the fam, and enough coin to make it happen is pretty darn impressive. i think as payment you need to set up a tent in your living room and be forced to sit in in for at least a few days. kudos!

I'm assuming a lot of folks on this site do, or have at one time in their dirtbag days, shopped at a grocery outlet (dent mart, food graveyard). Any good stories? It's been years since I've shopped at the BGO or Deals Only. Here are my highlights, leaving out of course the two year old expired cliff bars (bricks) and tastless shit ............................................ I bought a box of cereal full of dead spiders I boiled some water and poured a box of macaroni in. The pasta dissolved in the water making a mucous soup I bought a frozen bag of hamburgers. They shrank 75% on the grill and were all weird looking, tasting, and disgusting. I checked the ingredients: 100% beef hearts I got an instant dinner (freeze dried something with rice) for a trip. 3 days out I opened it for dinner. It was full of cobwebs and dead maggots. I ate it. Let's hear em!

i believe red has a larger range and is lighter...don't really know why you'd get a mastercam above the orange size

got the S95 and used it in for my wedding in winter in alaska. got low light, snow glare, indoors, running dogs, and kids/families - all my pics are ten times better than my old camera. thanks for the suggestions, the G12 was just too big

I think the science of determining R values for pocket change items is gonna be pretty loose. I also think that there are going to be diminishing returns the thicker you get...there is going to be a thinnest amount doing the most insulative work. Closed cell foam pads excel because you are taking advantage of the fact that you are using the minimum thickness for the most insulation. No one uses thick foam pads for alpine, everyone gets thin pads. Ridge rests and Z-rests are the best weight to warmth you're going to get, but they don't roll up as tight on the side of your pack as a thin-ass closed cell pad. Finally there are varying grades of quality...the blue ones (i believe) are the cheapest.