JasonG

Don't forget under the sea! A lot to discover and map down there. Well, maybe not. I suppose the Navy already has a good idea, but they aren't going to share what they know.

I think I would keep permit-less access on the down low. WeyCo doesn't seem to be enforcing it up around the Twin Sisters, but no need to poke a sleeping bear. I've heard the local land manager isn't keen on enforcing this with climbers, so the less we bother them with calls to reconsider, the better. This is a corporate decision across their ownership and is unlikely to change. They own the land and there isn't anything we can do about it, other than quietly continue using the land like we always have! If we were in the UK we would have the "right to roam" across private land, but not here. That's what is making America Great (Again)!

Wondering about the status of the road, heard that it was in pretty bad shape last year.

Having walked that approach a few times, including once in the rain/mist, you are most certainly a glutton for punishment. Heading upwards thru the wet brush (and the attendant soaked boots and clothing) dissuades most folks. West Mac is a worthy objective though (so is Inspiration!), so I'm sure you will be back.

Thanks for the reminder that I need to get out of the state and see more of what this great country offers!

Mountain Forecast is garbage. Go with the UW.

There goes the neighborhood. In all seriousness though, the NR of Blum is indeed a good climb. It's a grunt though.

Thanks Jeffrey, glad you like the photos! I don't use anything special, mostly a Canon Rebel T1i or sometimes a Canon S120 P&S. The real key is to shoot RAW and post-process in Lightroom to make them pop. The eye is much more discerning that the crappy sensors on my cameras and the photos need a little work to match what ones eye renders. The new Sony sensors (in high end Nikons as well) are much better (more than twice the dynamic range!) and hopefully I can upgrade in the next couple years.

Just remember that partly sunny means mostly cloudy in the mtns. That and "upper level low, weatherman's woe"

You'll be fine, is my pure speculation. The wedder, on the other hand....

I've lost several friends on 4th class terrain. It's not to be taken lightly. I'd stick with 3rd class and snow travel until you've gained a good deal of experience (a least a season or two). A long apprenticeship will serve you well in the hills. Some good scrambles: Cashmere, Black, Sperry, Vesper, Crater, Tomyhoi, Cadet, Del Campo, Gothic, Snoqualmie, HiBox, Gunn, Baring, etc. Lots to keep you busy as you work up to technical climbing in the Alpine.

Waddington has been on my list for years, but ...... it sounds like the glacier travel is getting bad, even early in the season. And that summmit, yikes. I may still have to go in there though, if only to give it a shot. Would love to see your photos!

Interesting, thanks for that. Also, forgot about this generalized site for Canadian mountain weather: http://www.avalanche.ca/weather Still the online Wx resources in Canada are quite limited compared to what we are used to stateside. The UW website in particular for PNW weather. Thanks Dr. Mass!

There is no good source for Canadian mountain forecasts. The locals in Canmore use Mountain Forecast, but I don't have any faith in the site based on my experience.

That's impressively turned around! Amazed that you were as quick as you were down that old burn.

More ideas for routes that are a step up w/steep snow or ice..... NF of Shuksan NF of Maude Adams Gl. Jeff Park Gl. NWFNR of Adams NR of Baker (probably work up to this one) Probably others I'm missing....

I love, love, love the new Petzl Summit II axe. So perfect for alpine routes around here. The other thing you can do is bring a capable single axe and a whippet (since you probably will have a ski pole anyways). If you need to front point with your tool in low dagger, the whippet provides a bit of additional purchase (unless it is actual ice). Sometimes on lower angle ice and neve an additional tool is more trouble than it is worth. Good footwork is the real key.

Now THAT is the way to climb Mount Blanc. That sounds really, really cool. Thanks!

I would post up the photos if I had them easily. I haven't gone back thru and scanned all my old slides, however. I was pretty late to the digital photo thing. You're right, I should read Al's Book of Lies. From what I gather, he and his brother are quite entertaining.

THE Al Burgess??!! BTW, about 13 years ago when I climbed it a huge serac collapsed the night before our climb (we heard it), filling a troublesome large crevasse that spanned most of the way across the glacier. It was easy travel for us, walking on top of the debris, but I can see how the route could be tricky- and could change quickly!

Technically that may be true, but from the perspective of the photo you're basically right. It is the section that appears to be between Smith peak and the Mohler Tooth. We didn't find the Whitewater all that long or out of the way. You can stay high on the glacier as you reach the northern part of it and link snow patches pretty much all the way back to camp. It was a really scenic way to end the day, maybe only 3 hours from the summit to camp. I think the whole ascent took us about 10.5-11 hours round trip. Descending the Jeff Park would be much longer and more involved. Hopefully you get to it before it goes out of shape, it's a lot of fun!

Trip: Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Date: 7/4/2016 Trip Report: I suppose Steve and I shouldn't have been surprised. By now we've both climbed enough routes out of Alan Kearney's "Classic Climbs of the Northwest" to know that the man knows what he is talking about. Still, after topping out on the Jefferson Park Glacier route on the 4th, we were impressed. A pleasant approach, comfortable camp (~6800' below the glacier- no water except snow), interesting glacier travel (including a deceptive 'schrund crossing), a spectacular knife edge, and excellent steep snow and rime on the summit tower made for a memorable ascent. Even more so since we had the entire route and mountain to ourselves on a holiday weekend! Initially we were a little disappointed that our first choice in the North Cascades was weathered out, but we shouldn't have been. Besides a long drive, there weren't really any drawbacks to the trip. I especially like the wilderness nature of Jefferson, more akin to Glacier Peak than many of the Cascade volcanoes that have roads high on their flanks. However, I can see how this mountain has a relatively narrow window for when it is in the best condition. I think we managed to hit it perfectly- snow-free hike to camp, the 'schrund was passable, the knife edge ridge mostly snow-free, summit pyramid mostly snow and ice (until the last bit on the east side of the north ridge), and descent down the Whitewater straightforward. A few weeks earlier or later and it likely isn't nearly as pleasant as we found it. Mount Jefferson is amazingly steep for how impressively chossy it is, and I have no doubt it could be terrible when it is in poor condition. We dubbed it "Chosso Torre". The only slight SNAFU was on the descent off the summit. We rapped blindly off the established station right on the summit and couldn't find the second one we had heard was there (likely covered in rime). We made a new station with a nut and tri-cam and did another short rappel to reach easy snow. Steep now traversing to Red Col led to easy slopes and the Whitewater. For being the easiest route on the mountain I was a bit surprised. It certainly gets your attention. I can see why some say it is the hardest of the major Oregon summits to climb. From the register it looks like 15-30 parties sign in each year, much fewer than I expected. As an aside.......We had planned ahead and left beer in the truck, but a kind, older gentleman at the TH walked over in his camo pants with two ice cold Coors in his hands (it was 10am). "I was wondering if you boys could use an ice cold beer?" pointing at the Stone IPAs in our hands, he continued "My Daughter says I need to drink real beer, but these are real enough for me!" We thanked him for the Coors and he happily sauntered off on his hike, after finishing his beer. It was the highlight of our final day in Oregon. Looking down from the summit on the upper part of the route, you basically run the ridge: Chosso Torre: Gear Notes: Helmet, second tool, steel crampons, half rope, light rack to 2", long runners. Approach Notes: Whitewater TH to Jefferson Park. We left the trail just before the major stream crossing on the west side of Jeff Park and headed up to the glacier

Geez Darin, you keep finding new adventures for us unimaginative ones! I went straight to my photos, Beckey books, and maps to figure out where in the heck Trisolace Peak even was. Thanks for sniffing out a cool looking route in a spectacular neck of the woods. It is on the list for sure!

Kurt Hicks is an excellent guide, though he is working as a climbing ranger right now at Mount Rainier. You could look him up and see what he has available next summer. I would suggest you go up the Kautz no later than early August. July would be much better. Good luck, especially with the boots!

Oh, the stones are still there, I just stepped over them! On the way back I built up a few more and added some sticks. Eventually it will get tall enough to ward off even the most ignorant bastards.