JasonG

Just remember that partly sunny means mostly cloudy in the mtns. That and "upper level low, weatherman's woe"

You'll be fine, is my pure speculation. The wedder, on the other hand....

I've lost several friends on 4th class terrain. It's not to be taken lightly. I'd stick with 3rd class and snow travel until you've gained a good deal of experience (a least a season or two). A long apprenticeship will serve you well in the hills. Some good scrambles: Cashmere, Black, Sperry, Vesper, Crater, Tomyhoi, Cadet, Del Campo, Gothic, Snoqualmie, HiBox, Gunn, Baring, etc. Lots to keep you busy as you work up to technical climbing in the Alpine.

Waddington has been on my list for years, but ...... it sounds like the glacier travel is getting bad, even early in the season. And that summmit, yikes. I may still have to go in there though, if only to give it a shot. Would love to see your photos!

Interesting, thanks for that. Also, forgot about this generalized site for Canadian mountain weather: http://www.avalanche.ca/weather Still the online Wx resources in Canada are quite limited compared to what we are used to stateside. The UW website in particular for PNW weather. Thanks Dr. Mass!

There is no good source for Canadian mountain forecasts. The locals in Canmore use Mountain Forecast, but I don't have any faith in the site based on my experience.

That's impressively turned around! Amazed that you were as quick as you were down that old burn.

More ideas for routes that are a step up w/steep snow or ice..... NF of Shuksan NF of Maude Adams Gl. Jeff Park Gl. NWFNR of Adams NR of Baker (probably work up to this one) Probably others I'm missing....

I love, love, love the new Petzl Summit II axe. So perfect for alpine routes around here. The other thing you can do is bring a capable single axe and a whippet (since you probably will have a ski pole anyways). If you need to front point with your tool in low dagger, the whippet provides a bit of additional purchase (unless it is actual ice). Sometimes on lower angle ice and neve an additional tool is more trouble than it is worth. Good footwork is the real key.

Now THAT is the way to climb Mount Blanc. That sounds really, really cool. Thanks!

I would post up the photos if I had them easily. I haven't gone back thru and scanned all my old slides, however. I was pretty late to the digital photo thing. You're right, I should read Al's Book of Lies. From what I gather, he and his brother are quite entertaining.

THE Al Burgess??!! BTW, about 13 years ago when I climbed it a huge serac collapsed the night before our climb (we heard it), filling a troublesome large crevasse that spanned most of the way across the glacier. It was easy travel for us, walking on top of the debris, but I can see how the route could be tricky- and could change quickly!

Technically that may be true, but from the perspective of the photo you're basically right. It is the section that appears to be between Smith peak and the Mohler Tooth. We didn't find the Whitewater all that long or out of the way. You can stay high on the glacier as you reach the northern part of it and link snow patches pretty much all the way back to camp. It was a really scenic way to end the day, maybe only 3 hours from the summit to camp. I think the whole ascent took us about 10.5-11 hours round trip. Descending the Jeff Park would be much longer and more involved. Hopefully you get to it before it goes out of shape, it's a lot of fun!

Trip: Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Date: 7/4/2016 Trip Report: I suppose Steve and I shouldn't have been surprised. By now we've both climbed enough routes out of Alan Kearney's "Classic Climbs of the Northwest" to know that the man knows what he is talking about. Still, after topping out on the Jefferson Park Glacier route on the 4th, we were impressed. A pleasant approach, comfortable camp (~6800' below the glacier- no water except snow), interesting glacier travel (including a deceptive 'schrund crossing), a spectacular knife edge, and excellent steep snow and rime on the summit tower made for a memorable ascent. Even more so since we had the entire route and mountain to ourselves on a holiday weekend! Initially we were a little disappointed that our first choice in the North Cascades was weathered out, but we shouldn't have been. Besides a long drive, there weren't really any drawbacks to the trip. I especially like the wilderness nature of Jefferson, more akin to Glacier Peak than many of the Cascade volcanoes that have roads high on their flanks. However, I can see how this mountain has a relatively narrow window for when it is in the best condition. I think we managed to hit it perfectly- snow-free hike to camp, the 'schrund was passable, the knife edge ridge mostly snow-free, summit pyramid mostly snow and ice (until the last bit on the east side of the north ridge), and descent down the Whitewater straightforward. A few weeks earlier or later and it likely isn't nearly as pleasant as we found it. Mount Jefferson is amazingly steep for how impressively chossy it is, and I have no doubt it could be terrible when it is in poor condition. We dubbed it "Chosso Torre". The only slight SNAFU was on the descent off the summit. We rapped blindly off the established station right on the summit and couldn't find the second one we had heard was there (likely covered in rime). We made a new station with a nut and tri-cam and did another short rappel to reach easy snow. Steep now traversing to Red Col led to easy slopes and the Whitewater. For being the easiest route on the mountain I was a bit surprised. It certainly gets your attention. I can see why some say it is the hardest of the major Oregon summits to climb. From the register it looks like 15-30 parties sign in each year, much fewer than I expected. As an aside.......We had planned ahead and left beer in the truck, but a kind, older gentleman at the TH walked over in his camo pants with two ice cold Coors in his hands (it was 10am). "I was wondering if you boys could use an ice cold beer?" pointing at the Stone IPAs in our hands, he continued "My Daughter says I need to drink real beer, but these are real enough for me!" We thanked him for the Coors and he happily sauntered off on his hike, after finishing his beer. It was the highlight of our final day in Oregon. Looking down from the summit on the upper part of the route, you basically run the ridge: Chosso Torre: Gear Notes: Helmet, second tool, steel crampons, half rope, light rack to 2", long runners. Approach Notes: Whitewater TH to Jefferson Park. We left the trail just before the major stream crossing on the west side of Jeff Park and headed up to the glacier

Geez Darin, you keep finding new adventures for us unimaginative ones! I went straight to my photos, Beckey books, and maps to figure out where in the heck Trisolace Peak even was. Thanks for sniffing out a cool looking route in a spectacular neck of the woods. It is on the list for sure!

Kurt Hicks is an excellent guide, though he is working as a climbing ranger right now at Mount Rainier. You could look him up and see what he has available next summer. I would suggest you go up the Kautz no later than early August. July would be much better. Good luck, especially with the boots!

Oh, the stones are still there, I just stepped over them! On the way back I built up a few more and added some sticks. Eventually it will get tall enough to ward off even the most ignorant bastards.

Thanks for the update. All the way to the Rexford TH as well?

Working them up, will have some ready in the next couple days. Will see what I can do....

Yes, because I am too. Almost, the guides have the stations set up so that the pulls are really nice (with big stainless rings)....we never had a close call on any rap. It is pretty much alpine cragging now, with the same crowds.

We climbed the Jeff Park on the 4th. Excellent shape, top to bottom! The 'shrund is a bit nasty, but passable on the extreme right side. I would think it would still be in this weekend. Summit is still mostly snow covered, and the Whitewater easy travel. I was impressed, it is a really cool route.

South Howser is set up for a single 70m rope (35m rappels as of last summer). Given how good and well placed the bolted rap stations are, I think a single 70m is the ticket. Gene- It is amazing how different it is in the Bugs (on the trade routes) compared with just 10 years ago. Shiny anchors everywhere!

We climbed it on 7/4 via the Jefferson Park Gl., descended the Whitewater. The mountain is in great shape, though the summit block is mostly snow and ice until you get to the North ridge. Dry scrambling on the east side of the north ridge for the last bit. Jeff Park Gl. was barely passable on the extreme right side of the 'schrund. It may be in for a few weeks, hard to say. Knife edge ridge mostly snow free. Whitewater Gl. well filled in, easy travel. I'll have a TR up with photos probably this weekend or early next week.

Nothing like stepping in a pile of human feces to start your day. Or traveling uphill 3000' vert in a car wash. But the views, oh the views!

True, that history really rounds out the TR. Thanks!