JasonG

Impressive amount of work, thanks!

NICE!!

I've heard from rangers that this is part of it, but mostly they feel that they can't have sledding without ranger supervision. And since they don't have enough staff in the winter to "supervise" visitors adequately, no sledding for anyone. Because, you know, us serfs aren't to be trusted. We might destroy "park resources" and hurt ourselves without big brother's protective gaze upon us at all times.

I'm not sure if any of us would handle that sort of wealth, and the platform it provides, very well. It is sort of mind boggling what is possible when you have unlimited money and visibility.....and nobody to say, "uhhhh, hold on a second Elon."

I really wonder why NPS continues to be so lame. Serious question, even if poorly worded. I don't think you can blame it all on staffing. There appears to be a significant cultural shift in the agency over the past 30 years. My boys don't need big brother (or even dad) telling them where to sled. Might they get hurt? Sure. That's nature for you. They could very well not be smart enough to reproduce, but I don't need NPS telling me that. Maybe we shouldn't let people climb the mountain? Seems dangerous.

Wait, no sledding??? Sheesh.

The long sleeping alpine beast has awakened!

Wow, it is crazy how fast the melt is accelerating in the past 20 years or so. I have even seen it plainly on Dome as well. I have no doubt that another 20 years of this will be even more dramatic. Great looking trip with Kiba!

Right! You said photos, d'oh.

Absolutely....they're gobbling up all the good companies, hoovering up data, and charging too much at the same time. So far I am not giving them any money but we'll see how long that lasts. I know if I have to start paying I'll switch to caltopo as well. I would imagine that you could download all your tracks from Gaia and upload to Caltopo?

I like Gaia, but I get it for free through mountain rescue.

Cool area! No wonder it is popular. I should have gone in twenty years ago, but I was too busy chasing hardman dreams on the bigger peaks north. All I found was a thin yellow pad.

Hmmmm.... so this is what "4th class or harder" means?

Oh I'd like to do that! Never been in there and it has long been on the list. Still though, planning on the shorter traditional version, if only for the car shuttle logistics. But the Dingford end is cool !!

Yeah @OlympicMtnBoy, it was actually better than feared. Still, definitely a mountain that deserves the respect it gets. I will let you know if there is a "next time" but.....

oooh, I should post a photo of my unloved nuts and see if you want those too @Michael Telstad? Depending on how nut rich you want to be for the next adventure.... and yes, we need a TR when the wedder forces you inside!

There you heard it right here mountain guides, @dberdinka giving his seal of approval to tweak the belay. You can take it out of your annual commission payment to Darin for creating such a guide friendly day outing. You know your clients expect the best!

Looking spicier for sure. Just how @dberdinka planned.

LOVE it @plexus! Thanks for the topo photo, the story, and the kinds words. Dallas was such an influence on so many of us, it was the least we could do. Let me know when you are back in the PNW and want to go up Kloke peak! Would be a reasonable day with light packs....

Looks great! Thanks for your work to put that up.

No. The Access Fund and several local guides including @kurthicks met with NOCA several times over years to try and sort this out in a way that made sense (I think there was emailing back and forth too). It was awhile ago (~2013-16), after @kurthicks hand-bolted a safer descent off Forbidden. It was thoughtfully done and kept people out of the line of rockfall. Most of us rejoiced. Nevertheless, the NPS chopped the bolts. Anyways, the climbers got nowhere (as I understand it) in trying to craft a sensible anchor policy with NPS, and the talks fizzled out. Maybe Kurt or @sambataro can weigh in with more details.

Thanks @Alisse, I definitely can't complain this summer! I will try and put up a few TRs from the road trip with the family to high points earlier in June and July. Areas that don't have much exposure in the database....

Yes!

When we finally get out in the hills together @olyclimber, remind me to tell you about the "rescue" on Sauk of a lady way up by the summit, at night, in November, in the snow, wearing those slippers (software won't let me spell their name!).

Trip: Tamarack Meadows Climbing - Prusik (West Ridge), High Priest (North face), Mount Temple (West route) Trip Date: 09/07/2024 Trip Report: This seems like it has been the summer of obscure destinations for me. Places I've long thought about going but never made happen. Maybe it's because they're not top shelf destinations, but as I've aged and don't go as hard, I've increasingly found these sorts of trips fun because of the lack of traffic, because of the lack of beta, and how they've forced me back into to puzzling things out on the fly. The climbs on the north side of Temple Ridge definitely fit into this category. The dream of the 90's is alive! Or at least that is how I sold it to @Trent, @cfire, @BrettS, John and Leslie a few months back. And, minus the unanticipated smoke haze, I think it pretty much went off without too much drama. An energetic approach to idyllic camps below our climbs, time to lounge after our short approaches and moderate climbs, plenty of chocolate, and no other parties around. A great 4 day trip! I won't spoil your fun with beta overload, but here are a few photos to whet your appetite for up trip up Temple Canyon.... Snow Creek wall from the hike in: Sow and cub seen at Nada lake: Mild shenanigans to get up into Temple Canyon: High Priest (on the right) from camp: Heading to WR Prusik on Day 2 (still a classic- I hadn't climbed it in 24 years): Looking down into the heart of the Core Zone a the start of the WR of Prusik: John at a belay on the WR: John and Leslie higher up: A couple of me on WR Prusik: @cfire on the summit of Prusik: John and Leslie arrive at the summit: Shield Lake Valley: High Priest and Temple from Prusik: @Trentwas over on McClellan while we were on Prusik: Heading back to camp through Nada Pass, with Prusik above: Camp life! Night life! Goat life! Gearing up for High Priest North Face route (Beckey description works well, as does Mountaineers) : @BrettS and Leslie on the North Face of High Priest: Summit of High Priest looking over to Prusik and the peaks of the Core Zone: Summit block of High Priest from descent: We rapped off the standard High Priest descent and kept high, running the ridge over to Mount Temple. Expect shenanigans, but it goes without undue hardship! And then you have the great mid-fifth pitch to the summit of Mount Temple: and the airy rap back down: After descending Mount Temple, we admired the Meteor. Supposed the crack on this west side is "5.12- or aid. From it's top step right into a 5.10 off-width" After a final night at camp, all that was left was to reverse the shenanigans getting back to Nada Lake, including a nice view of the Black Pyramid, The Professor, Comet Spire, and the Meteor (L-R): : A lunch stop at Nada Lake to admire the reflections: And arrival at Icicle Creek, relieved to find our drinks still hidden and cold! Gear Notes: Medium Rack to 2", helmet, 60m single rope, rock shoes Approach Notes: Core zone permit needed. Snow Creek trail to Nada lake. Go right at the second toilet and find a faint climber's trail leading up to a cliff band. Find a key ledgy 3rd class ramp that will take you up and right through the cliff band., Follow rib up and left and then up to where valley rolls off. Bits of tread lead up into Temple Canyon and then disappear. Follow your nose up the drainage to about 7200' where it opens up to good camping in Tamarack Meadows. An energetic and stimulating approach.