JasonG

Trip: Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: Is Boston a "low grade heap of ore"? Quite possibly. Is it worth climbing? Most certainly, if only for the summit register and view. There aren't many peaks that can boast such a vista, especially ones that are comfortably climbed in a day from home (It took us around 11 hours CTC with breaks and time on the summit). And it really isn't as bad as its reputation- IF you are on route. I started up the rap route and quickly realized why this was the scene of a fatality in the 1960's. Avoid. Instead, traverse farther north once off the glacier and find easy third and a short bit of fourth class that will take you to the exposed summit ridge. You're likely to have the spacious summit to yourselves as you peruse one of the best registers in the range. Three single raps will deposit you on the glacier and a bit of exposed, chossy, third class (which seems way easier on the way back) will take you to the Boston-Sahale Col, the Quien Sabe, and easy terrain back to the trail. We all remarked how nice of a day trip it was, especially since we saw the hordes jamming each other on Sahale all day while we had Boston to ourselves. A funny aside.... I saw Kevork getting onto the Quien Sabe about a week after I ran into him up in Depot Creek. He's everywhere! Gear Notes: 50-60m half rope, a few nuts/tri-cams, helmet, ice axe, Al crampons. Glacier gear. Approach Notes: Kevork says it is faster to do Boston via Cascade Pass, and I have to think he knows what he is talking about. Still, it wasn't a terribly long day RT from Boston Basin (which I had thought would be much quicker). BB trail is in fine shape. Stream crossings are a bit spicy on hot afternoons.

Mount Daniel Eldorado Ruth Mountain Mount Hinman are some other alpine feeling ideas

Love it! Looks like a great route to add to the list. These non-Cascade reports are great, keep 'em coming!

Glad you guys like the photos! And yes, you can self issue the permit in Sedro if they are closed or get it in person during normal business hours. No need to go to Marblemount. Hard to say how the moat is now....could be OK or much worse. There was a large hollow area that was going to be a lot worse before it got better. Steve- I can't swing a long trip in Sept., unfortunately. Got to save leave for the mega family camping trip!

Good question Oly, I think Klenke will allow a brief response. Custer- South ridge, 3rd/4th Rahm- SW route, 3rd/4th NW Twin Spire (AKA Easy Mox)- North Ridge, low-mid fifth SE Twin Spire (AKA Hard Mox)- SW route, mid-fifth

Awesome Darin, thanks for continuing to lead the way and share the beta for the rest of us to draft off of. Much appreciated!

You know it! Spooky, thankfully Steve was up to the task while I yelled encouragement. Porter is going to help me so hopefully you can see some pics in the next few days.

Never mind

Well, the original plan was to go into the Northern Pickets for a week, but then the weather turned and our crack team of five armchair alpinists began to unravel. Then, three of us were going to head to the Winds, but we lost the third. Then, two of us were going to head to the Tetons, but our truck broke down on the way to Snoqualmie Pass and we didn't have another road worthy rig between us. Then, the two of us were going to head into Cathedral (in my beater 1991 Civic), but the weather window got too small. And so, we found ourselves in Depot Creek (carried there by my beater Civic), going after some obscure peaks on an obscure list, best not discussed in polite conversation. Lest I anger Klenke, tyrannical king of beta, this report will be short on details but long on pictures. Some of the things that stuck out to me on our trip: • As on most Cascade outings, we had the best weather on days we hiked in and out. • The approach up Depot Creek is getting more difficult with time/lack of maintenance. • Scrambling fourth class terrain in the rain and static electricity can be surprisingly exciting. • Custer really may be the most solid peak in the Cascades • "Hard" Mox may feel a lot harder than you think it should feel.... especially if you are in a cloud • "Easy" Mox doesn't seem so easy in the face of glacial recession • Anyone who has climbed Lemolo is tough as nails • Get a permit. NCNP rangers patrol up Depot Creek and Kevork may pay you a visit. (In our case this was welcome, Steve hadn't seen Kevork since the rescue on Terror in 2009 ) • You really should see the Depot Creek Falls once in your lifetime, or four times if your success rate is similar to mine. Approach: Drive up Depot Creek as far as you dare. We made it a mile with low clearance, but you could get another mile with 4WD HC. Gear: Helmet, 60m half rope, ice axe, Al crampons

I love the WA coast for kid backpacking. Lots to keep kids occupied and they're never bored. With two cars you could do a long stretch like Oil City to Third Beach: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/toleak-point Or you could hike up to the meadows under Tomyhoi and climb to the high point under the summit. Or you could hike up to Spider Meadow and day trip up to Spider Gap (very busy with families). There are probably lots that I'm forgetting.

D A M N. Your capacity to suffer as a couple (and stay together) is most impressive. THANKS for the epic report!

Normal snow year, but the warmest spring (and fastest melt out at SnoTel sites) on record. Better luck next time!

Thanks Off, I'll have to add that route to my list, and I like your strategy.

Don't follow the cairns! Yes, after crossing the one branch of the creek coming from Stuart Lake shortly after leaving the main trail, you pretty much stay near the other fork of Mountaineers creek the whole way from the main trail. Stay on the west side of the creek, but within sight of it.

You guys are tearing it up! TFT and CNR on back to back weekends. Plus, you guys did the deproach the hard way. Nice effort! FYI, the glacier in your photo (and presumably the one you mention calving?) is the Ice Cliff Glacier. The Sherpa is one cirque to the east from there and isn't nearly as crazy looking.

Ragged Edge? True Grit? Mile High Club? Those may be pushing it a bit depending on how much rushing you want to do. You could also do the first part of Infinite Bliss on Garfield. ....maybe Silent running or Total Soul on 3 O'clock Rock in D-town. Or you could just go hiking and eat lots of chocolate and drink wine. And cheese, don't forget the cheese.

John is as solid as they come, and he's got a lot of stories. You should join him!

I'll say. That looks like quite the adventure, thanks for posting it! I especially liked all the useful detail and stunning night exposures, much appreciated!

As Max said, perfectly safe but probably less than ideal due to the size, fuzziness, and propensity to absorb water. It won't snap though, that's for sure. I have a friend that uses an old climbing rope to tow cars out of snowbanks all winter long. It sure looks like it is going to break when he steps on the gas, but it just stretches and stretches. Modern ropes are pretty amazing.

Work around failing for you as well?

Nice work! I'm glad the hats made it the whole way, it was fun to see you guys starting up the trail. Did you have to rap off a bollard to clear the 'schrund on the north side of Torment?

Thanks Don, I'm glad to hear the details of the response to the accident.

Just to be clear, ALL PLBs use the military satellite system. SPOT and InReach aren't classified as PLBs, because they use a private satellite system. To use the military system, all true PLBs go thru rigorous testing. I think anything by the two main companies (McMurdo or ACR) would be just fine.

I'll say. That pocket glacier is spooky.

You would know if you have had giardia, it is not temporary and only goes away with some heavy duty pharmaceuticals. It really is nasty. Both times have been memorable in different ways.